Ford Transmission :: Clunking Noise When Barely Pressing He Accelerator
May 25, 2002
I need to pinpoint this clunking noise. I've recently noticed this noise on the highway, after I have been driving a while, when I stop and begin driving again, if I am barely pressing he accelerator, she will clunk along. The sound is accompanied by a movement that you can feel as well. I'm beginning to think maybe there is some slippage in the rear differential.
Also I was wondering how much repairs run for this diff, the numbers I got were:
D26W0
and
2148
I know its not the U-joints, I just had them replaced along with a new driveshaft.
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When I'm on the highway around 60 mph I get a whistling whining vibration sound. if I accelerate or ease off the accelerator it stops, but when I get back to around that speed it comes back. What this could be?
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I have had my 2007 GX for 5 months now. I have discovered the "clunk" issue and had the dealership replace the driveshaft. I want to start a new thread because I have a different clunk. The new driveshaft has fixed my clunk issue at a stop but I have one more. While driving in the city or leaving the highway on the exit ramp (transmission is in overdrive) and I press the accelerator I get a clunk.
This only happens when the transmission is shifting out of overdrive. I can repeat this clunk while driving around 30-40 mph. I will coast a bit then accelerate enough that it wants to shift out of overdrive and then "clunk". It sounds loud but not much of a jerk. I have 85K on it and did not perform any fluid changes in the drive train yet. Transmission is sealed so not sure if it is worth changing or just leave it and drive nice so it don't clunk.
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I get a strange noise when I shit gear & press the accelerator..... the sound is as if something is knocking.....
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My wife was driving our 2 young kids on the highway and the accelerator was making a loud clacking noise and then there was no response when pressing the accelerator. She managed to get to the shoulder. Mechanic says the engine is totally cooked (long block replacement). Only 32K miles and all scheduled maintenance done.
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New 2015 Escape. Since I got this car in January I have had this problem where occasionally pressing on the accelerator does nothing for a few seconds and then accelerates like popping the clutch in a stick shift. i.e., I was stopped at a redlight with traffic in front of me. The light went green and the traffic was moving very slow. I depressed the accelerator to match the slow speeds. Traffic began to pick up speed and depressing my accelerator more was doing nothing. I gave it slightly more accelerator and nothing. Then my car jerks forward like I popped the clutch, (my car is auto).
The traffic in from of me then stopped and I had to slam on the brakes to avoid rear-ending the car in front of me. This occurs often but I cannot repeat the event. It happens occasionally and without warning. No faults showing.
I had it back to the dealer right after I bought it. I was told to allow time for the adaptive system to break in. At 2k miles I had it back in and was told, no faults, driving it showed nothing, it must be me. Now at 3500 miles, called Ford and was told to take it back to dealer. I have an appointment next week. This is more than a nuisance as I am very concerned pulling into a parking lot or in the example I wrote about could easily end in an accident with another vehicle or pedestrian, especially children.
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I have a 1994 F-150 extended cab electronically activated 4x4, with the 302 V8 and an e4od transmission.
When the truck is running and it is in park or neutral it makes a grinding/whining noise and when it is in gear it doesn't engage, or occasionally will barely engage, but only enough to move it a little ways.
I've read a couple of post that suggested bad connections to the transmission could cause the transfer case to be in neutral which could cause a similar problem to this. I checked all the connection the best I could and the only thing I found that gave me any concern was one of the wires connected to the transfer case shift motor had some of the insulation melted or rubbed of and the wire was a bit corroded.
Is there any chance that this could be causing my overall problem with the truck not driving? Or what might be going on with it? Or any way I might be able to fix it without having to hand over a significant chunk of change for the full rebuild.
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After putting my front end back together except new springs, new shocks, and new track bar, just to give everyone a little history of what I've done to it. I've had it for 8 months and maybe put 1000 miles if that because of working out of town a lot and the front end torn apart. I've noticed a louder roar coming from the rear end when taking my foot off the accelerator without pressing the brake. It feels like the tow button is engaged, but isnt. I have no issues with handling besides knowing it still needs alignment. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow for a 4 wheel alignment. It sounds and feels like I'm riding on mud terrain tires.
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While driving the other day, the truck suddenly began to stall when pressing the accelerator. The water in fuel light came on as did the glow plug light. This continued with the truck sometimes dying all the way and other times just stalling then picking back up. No difference in throttle pressure seemed to make a difference except that letting off totally then slowly pressing seemed to let it keep running sometimes.
So I get home and drain the fuel water separator. I gets about a thimble full of water and lots of the rusty looking junk others have talked about. Try to run the truck again, same thing as before. I then changed fuel filters and thought that had it licked but after about 10 minutes it started again. By the way, the 6mm plug seemed to have about a third of the threads rusted off. Not sure what that means as I drain it at least twice a year.
I have read a lot about the ICP and IPR issues and was wondering if this could be my problem. I am hoping its not the HPOP. My other thought was something in the fuel tank blocking the in tank filter. I checked the top mount bowl and it was only about two thirds full after running the truck
Truck info: Late 2004 Ford F350 Dually 4x4 crewcab, 6.0, EGR delete plate,4" turbo back exhaust with cat delete, no muffler,K&N filter and filter box, Diablo tuner usually set to 60hp upgrade.
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Just picked it up on Saturday. 2010 WE, 39,500 miles. Ran great all weekend. This morning, on my way to work, I merge onto the highway, and BAM! Check engine light comes on. Now the car Shakes / vibrates while going 40, or 60-65, and gently pressing on the accelerator.
It shakes at idle, while in Drive, with the brakes on. It seems to have lost power, and the engine sounds like a manual car if you were to try to start from a dead-stop in fifth gear. I've taken it back to the dealership, and they are checking it out. Wondering what the heck happened.
I should also point out that on Saturday, the second I got home, an "Air Bag Error" warning came on, and hasn't gone away.
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My Legacy sedan is not behaving well. On more than one occasion, when pressing on the accelerator, the rpms do not rise. I put it in park and try to press gas pedal, nothing. Turn the car off and let rest for a few minutes, then start it up again, and it's fine.....
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I was driving my 90 Jeep Cherokee (automatic transmission) last night on the freeway when I suddenly lost power. The engine continued to idle (but roughly) but pressing the accelerator did not result in any increase in engine speed or vehicle speed. The car came to a stop on the off-ramp but I was able to restart it and limp along at idle speed for another few blocks until it came to a stop.
I suspected I may have run out of gas, despite the fuel indicator showing a quarter of a tank but after adding 2 gallons of gas to the tank it wouldn't start. It sounded like it wanted to but it wouldn't start.
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1988 F-150 4X4, 302, 5 speed manual Mazda transmission. I picked this truck up from a teenager and have been going through it fixing the odds and ends, just when I thought I was done a new one popped up.
There is an odd "clunk" in the driveline, but I cannot pinpoint where it is coming from. It happens almost exclusively in third gear, shifting up or down into this gear. It has happened in first gear one time that I can remember. When it happens, I hear the pop (clunk), then feel a slight jerk like when a chain slips on a bicycle.
I spent some time under the truck yesterday trying to locate it, but had no luck. Did find the yoke on the rear end , 8.8, a little loose. Found that the U-joints at each end of the driveshaft were worn out. The transfer case, BW 1356, was quite low on fluid. And there was nothing out of the ordinary with the transmission.
Tightened the yoke, replaced the U-joints, drained the T-case and refilled with fresh ATF and pulled the fill plug on the tranny to ensure it had ATF instead of gear oil in it. It did.
I hoped all of that had solved my mystery noise, but I wasn't that lucky so now I need to isolate it. Seems that if there was a problem in the T-case or rear diff, the noise would be present trough all gears wouldn't it? With it being primarily in one gear, could the problem be in the transmission? If so, can it be rebuilt for a reasonable price?
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I swapped in a manual trans in my 79 f250 4x4 about a year ago. i had the trans gone through before i put it in. I installed a new luk clutch, resurfaced the flywheel, new throw out bearing, etc.
Ever since i installed it there was always a clunking noise in the trans. I drove it and didn't think much about it until recently where im just fed up with it. the trans always shifted nice and tight with no grinding.
In the past few weeks i picked up a parts truck for the trans thinking that's what my problem was. I drove the truck before i pulled it and it mad no noises whatsoever. I had it gone through and reasealed it before i installed it. I pulled my old trans and it still looked good with no slop on the input shaft(which i thought that was the problem). I installed the new one and once again same noise.
I decided to pull the trans again this time pulling the bellhousing and checking the clutch. It looked like new to me still and i saw nothing abnormal. Put it back together and still the same. I swapped the transfer case too, checked both driveshafts all is good. I am thinking its coming from the bellhousing(maybe the clutch is bad)
So here is a video and you can hear what I am talking about it happens mostly when I engage the clutch and i am coasting. it is much louder now with no carpet and the trans hump cover off.
Np 435 transmission clunk - YouTube
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I managed to replace all the damaged gears and other hard parts in my 2002 E150 transmission 4R70W and did a full rebuild on it after it self-destructed. I did not change the solenoid valves but I now suspect that I should have. It shifts smoothly until you get to the time that overdrive should engage but it doesn't. If you drive a bit at a steady speed around 50 mph the OD light on the shifter will start to flash.
Once you turn it off and restart it, the flashing stops. I did not drive it again to see if it repeats, but I can tell that Overdrive is not engaging. Pressing the OD off button does not seem to change the engine RPM. Is it most likely the solenoid valve or could I have not put it back together right?
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When driving, getting up to about 30 mph, a loud clunking noise and feeling seem to come from under the center armrest. I have looked underneath to see if something came loose or was missing, but nothing looks out of place. Increase in speed makes it get worse.
2004 Touareg V6 67k Miles
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Reverse works great....engine revs and barely pulls in drive. Not sure yet if it actually changes gears. I am planning on replacing tranny. I have a few questions :
1: Could it be something more simple like a selonoid or ???
2: What all trannys will fit? this is the 2wd 5.4 liter xlt ...
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1988 ranger, its a automatic 4x4 v6 and is leaking tranny fluid real bad. Truck barley moves because fluid comes straight out...
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I bought a brand new 2016 Camry LE. Sometimes when car sits for a while, and I shift from P to R, there is a clunking noise with foot on the brake. I tried with the parking break engage and it still does it.
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So I have a 2006 2.4 sonata with a transmission whine only when pressing on the gas in drive or reverse. I just flushed and replaced the fluid and it is at the correct level. What I want to know is since the transmission has in internal filter, is it possible for me to clean it out to get rid of the whining sound?
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So my wife was driving my EX today... she heard a noise and then the truck would barely drive. I went and checked it and i lost the exhaust pipe between cat and muffler (right below the second row) I also found 4 bared wires that had been ripped apart.
Exhaust broke loose and wrapped around drive shaft and ripped the sensor wires apart and threw the pipe somewhere? So I am assuming that there was an oxygen sensor located on that portion of exhaust that is now lost.
I thought no big deal I will just drive to a muffler shop and get it fixed, but the Ex would barely move. So i guess i will have to tow it, how I can get the truck to run missing the pipe and sensor.
My questions are:
Is that an oxygen sensor that goes into the exhaust pipe?
If so, can i just buy the sensor and pigtail, wire it and then drive to get exhaust fixed?
Is there a way for me to drive it without wiring in a new sensor instead of paying for a tow?
2004 6.8L limited....
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