My Legacy sedan is not behaving well. On more than one occasion, when pressing on the accelerator, the rpms do not rise. I put it in park and try to press gas pedal, nothing. Turn the car off and let rest for a few minutes, then start it up again, and it's fine.....
View 3 RepliesI had plugs and wires changed to try clear code. Car seemed to do some better but while trying to go up a steep hill car started stuttering and jerking. Power went out of car and check engine light started blinking fast.after let the car sit for bout 45mins car started running fine again and light stopped flashing but remained on. Code read cylinder2 misfire again.
View 10 RepliesHitting a diagnostic dead end here - car wants to overheat/drink coolant on hot days when inevitably the A/C is on. A/C fan never comes on. Car was in a front-ender accident about 18 months ago, could be related, unclear. The A/C condenser was damaged then, but I replaced it, recharged the system, and the A/C now blows nice and cold. I've swapped the fans and the same fan works fine when plugged into the other side. I've swapped the fuses.
I've taken a working relay (as the other fan stops when I pull the relay out) and rotated that relay thru the other 3 sockets with the engine and A/C on. Still no movement. So I'm a bit stumped puzzled as to what to consider next, and then a part of me started to wonder if the fan is the red herring, and might I have a radiator issue which is the real culprit. I don't see any leaks. I had the thermostat fail about 1-2 months after the accident but a shop replaced it and this overheating issue really only flared this summer. This is a 99 Subaru Legacy SUS Sedan, the 30th Anniversary edition, with 189K+ miles, so minimal expenditure is the game plan.
I've got a 2008 Subaru Outback, manual transmission. When I come to a light, I may put the car in 1st gear with the clutch depressed while I wait to proceed. Then, all by itself, the accelerator revs up to about 2500 rpm for a brief moment. Then it comes down, rests for a second and then does the same thing all over again. The only thing that will make it stop is if I put the stick in neutral and release the clutch. Any way to cure this?
View 3 RepliesI have a 98 cavelier 2.4L..When engine is cold and the colder the outside temp is, the engine runs great with lots of power. but as temperatures rise, there is a huge loss in power. It feels like the computer is retarding the timing. Is there an outside air temp sensor to close to the rad??
View 2 RepliesWhile driving the other day, the truck suddenly began to stall when pressing the accelerator. The water in fuel light came on as did the glow plug light. This continued with the truck sometimes dying all the way and other times just stalling then picking back up. No difference in throttle pressure seemed to make a difference except that letting off totally then slowly pressing seemed to let it keep running sometimes.
So I get home and drain the fuel water separator. I gets about a thimble full of water and lots of the rusty looking junk others have talked about. Try to run the truck again, same thing as before. I then changed fuel filters and thought that had it licked but after about 10 minutes it started again. By the way, the 6mm plug seemed to have about a third of the threads rusted off. Not sure what that means as I drain it at least twice a year.
I have read a lot about the ICP and IPR issues and was wondering if this could be my problem. I am hoping its not the HPOP. My other thought was something in the fuel tank blocking the in tank filter. I checked the top mount bowl and it was only about two thirds full after running the truck
Truck info: Late 2004 Ford F350 Dually 4x4 crewcab, 6.0, EGR delete plate,4" turbo back exhaust with cat delete, no muffler,K&N filter and filter box, Diablo tuner usually set to 60hp upgrade.
I bought a brand new 07 Legacy 2.5i sedan at the end of 2006. At 1500 miles the steering was problematic, took it in to the dealer, and by the time they were done, they replaced the entire power steering system. They said the problem was with the power steering rack, which they replaced. I asked if this new part was from the same supplier, so could also be defective, and apparently it is. I am rather alarmed, this is the 1st brand new car I have purchased in 20+ years.
View 27 RepliesI have a 98 Subaru Legacy wagon and have replaced alternator FIVE times in last 7 months or so -- originally my mechanic (who has been awesome & doing all the replacements for free) thought the parts were defective, but last one came from a different supplier and only a month or so after installing, my car just died at a light this morning. Battery not drained, and mechanic was able to start it after had it towed there. What can it be?
FYI, bought the car used two years ago, so don't know whole history, but was fine for first year or so. The first time I lost power, I think it really was the alternator (and snapped belt), so I don't know if something happened or something was not reconnected correctly. (First time it broke was on a Saturday and my regular mechanic was closed to went to someone not very good -- and if this is useful info beyond just complaining, when this guy put in the new alternator, he didn't connect it to the battery, so I stalled out within hours of the "repair.")
My mechanic is stumped and I am at a loss -- don't want to sink a bunch of money in if this is the beginning of the end of the car (mileage is just over 100k, though, so seems to young to die), but need a bit more reliability.
As I was driving home the other day, I noticed the steering wheel on my 99 Subaru Legacy (130,000+ miles) became considerably stiffer than ever before. I pulled into my driveway (where, incidentally, the wheel loosened up) and checked the power steering fluid. Unsurprisingly, it was low.
I haven't been on the road since, but I did turn the car around in the driveway. Aside from the wheel gently stuttering or pausing initially (it's done this when cold for a while now -- I always assumed it was a loose belt or something) the wheel seemed normal.
I made an appointment with a mechanic and described my symptoms. He said he'd have to take a look but suspected it was a bad power steering pump. Is this the only possibility? Could it be a bad belt or a leak somewhere in the system? If it is the pump, how much should I expect to pay to have it fixed?
My AWD 1996 Subaru Legacy Station Wagon suddenly loses power while I'm driving......
View 3 RepliesThis evening I drove our Subaru Legacy Wagon (1999) about 3 miles or so to the gym. When I pulled into the lot, I noticed my radio (tuned to NPR, no less) had gone off. Curious! A few seconds later, dashboard lights come on (ABS, maybe others). After that, engine goes quiet, car is dead -- turning the key does nothing at all, and the car is completely without power. Only the dome light works, and barely. I get a jump, and eventually the car starts back up --- but it took a while, and several tries, before I could get the engine going.
On the way home, I kept a careful eye on the RPMs -- when I was close, I noticed the ABS light pop back on, and the RPM needle go down to zero. I tried my best to keep the RPMs up by staying in first, and managed to park. Of course, the car was unresponsive when I immediately tried to restart it. Some quick internet searches suggest alternator, bad connections to the battery, and some other ideas. We've never had this problem before. The twist is that we're literally on the brink of selling this car -- we've got one more than we need. Thus, we'd be pretty bummed if we had to put much, if any, cash into the car just so we can get rid of it days later.
I get a strange noise when I shit gear & press the accelerator..... the sound is as if something is knocking.....
View 3 RepliesJust picked it up on Saturday. 2010 WE, 39,500 miles. Ran great all weekend. This morning, on my way to work, I merge onto the highway, and BAM! Check engine light comes on. Now the car Shakes / vibrates while going 40, or 60-65, and gently pressing on the accelerator.
It shakes at idle, while in Drive, with the brakes on. It seems to have lost power, and the engine sounds like a manual car if you were to try to start from a dead-stop in fifth gear. I've taken it back to the dealership, and they are checking it out. Wondering what the heck happened.
I should also point out that on Saturday, the second I got home, an "Air Bag Error" warning came on, and hasn't gone away.
My old and often very reliable '93 Subaru's power steering died the other day. I was driving and my engine suddenly started making a deep ticking sound. I pulled over and with it running, popped the hood. The sound was coming from the front of the engine near the visible belts. I decided to keep driving. After about 10 miles that's when the power steering died. Then my battery light and break light came on (which in the past has usually indicated that something is up with the battery or something is drawing from the battery more than it should). THEN I began to smell burnt rubber.
What I want to know is this: my boyfriend says that it's probably the surpentine (sp?) belt or the pump thingy that runs the steering. First, I want to know if I can drive it to the shop or if that is a dangerous thing to do. The steering is really hard but I can still make it work. I'm a grad student and I don't have the money to get a tow, but will will find the money if I have to. Second, is my boyfriend right and will it cost a lot? Again, poor grad student.
I need to pinpoint this clunking noise. I've recently noticed this noise on the highway, after I have been driving a while, when I stop and begin driving again, if I am barely pressing he accelerator, she will clunk along. The sound is accompanied by a movement that you can feel as well. I'm beginning to think maybe there is some slippage in the rear differential.
Also I was wondering how much repairs run for this diff, the numbers I got were:
D26W0
and
2148
I know its not the U-joints, I just had them replaced along with a new driveshaft.
When I'm on the highway around 60 mph I get a whistling whining vibration sound. if I accelerate or ease off the accelerator it stops, but when I get back to around that speed it comes back. What this could be?
View 9 RepliesI have had my 2007 GX for 5 months now. I have discovered the "clunk" issue and had the dealership replace the driveshaft. I want to start a new thread because I have a different clunk. The new driveshaft has fixed my clunk issue at a stop but I have one more. While driving in the city or leaving the highway on the exit ramp (transmission is in overdrive) and I press the accelerator I get a clunk.
This only happens when the transmission is shifting out of overdrive. I can repeat this clunk while driving around 30-40 mph. I will coast a bit then accelerate enough that it wants to shift out of overdrive and then "clunk". It sounds loud but not much of a jerk. I have 85K on it and did not perform any fluid changes in the drive train yet. Transmission is sealed so not sure if it is worth changing or just leave it and drive nice so it don't clunk.
New 2015 Escape. Since I got this car in January I have had this problem where occasionally pressing on the accelerator does nothing for a few seconds and then accelerates like popping the clutch in a stick shift. i.e., I was stopped at a redlight with traffic in front of me. The light went green and the traffic was moving very slow. I depressed the accelerator to match the slow speeds. Traffic began to pick up speed and depressing my accelerator more was doing nothing. I gave it slightly more accelerator and nothing. Then my car jerks forward like I popped the clutch, (my car is auto).
The traffic in from of me then stopped and I had to slam on the brakes to avoid rear-ending the car in front of me. This occurs often but I cannot repeat the event. It happens occasionally and without warning. No faults showing.
I had it back to the dealer right after I bought it. I was told to allow time for the adaptive system to break in. At 2k miles I had it back in and was told, no faults, driving it showed nothing, it must be me. Now at 3500 miles, called Ford and was told to take it back to dealer. I have an appointment next week. This is more than a nuisance as I am very concerned pulling into a parking lot or in the example I wrote about could easily end in an accident with another vehicle or pedestrian, especially children.
My wife was driving our 2 young kids on the highway and the accelerator was making a loud clacking noise and then there was no response when pressing the accelerator. She managed to get to the shoulder. Mechanic says the engine is totally cooked (long block replacement). Only 32K miles and all scheduled maintenance done.
View 7 RepliesIf I could determine the resistance of the accelerator pedal at around 1000 rpms, couldn't I rig up that resistance and switch it on in the accelerator pedal circuit to make the truck go to high idle? Any flaws in my thinking?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Mazda Tribute that seems to have a bit of an idling issue. When my heat on my car is off, everything is fine as far as the idle speed. When I have the heat on, even when it is low, and I am stopped, the rpm's rise a bit, then go back down to normal idling speed. The car also gives a little jump when I come to a stop. I think all of this is related to turning the heat on and off, as it doesn't happen when the heat is on.
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