Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1973 F250 - 3G Alternator Swap / Adding Relays To Keep Headlights From Shutting Off
Sep 19, 2015
I'm working on the '73 F250 in my sig. I'm not very skilled when it comes to electrical work and I don't want to hack things. First up is I'm wiring a 7-way trailer connector with brakes. I need to tap into the brake light switch at the pedal, what is the cleanest way to do this? I was thinking of sticking a blade connector in the existing connector or adding a plug pigtail.
Also in the future I will (hopefully) be doing a 3G alternator swap and adding relays to keep my headlights from shutting off. I'm looking for suggestions on a junkyard or aftermarket fuse block that will accommodate the circuit breaker for the trailer brake, the 100 amp fuse for the 3g swap and the relays for the headlights.
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I have a Derale 16749 electric fan controller set up had a fan die, went back to a old set up using a fan shroud I made and sable fans being the controller isn't set up to handle the load from these fans I want to just add relays in. Way the derale is set up to the fan is 12v. constant but the ground is also a 12v. until the switch reaches temp. then becomes a ground. I am not concerned with wiring the low side up on these fans just high side.
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Dad borrowed truck and wired 7 pin trailer harness. Lights worked on truck/trailer for use but upon return the turn signals didnt work. Hazards and running and brake lights did work. Replaced TS flasher and Haz flasher. Still no signals. Pulled steering wheel and replaced turn signal cam only, not whole switch. Now no brake lights, no rear hazards or turn signals. Losing my marbles trying to follow schematic and using test light and mulit meter. All bulbs and fuses are good. Running lights and head lights working as well.
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I *think* I'm having trouble with the alternator on my 2002 Navigator with the 5.4L DOHC engine.
A year ago in Feb 2014 the alternator quit charging. I thought the headlights were a little dim, but when the radio turned itself off and then the heater fan did the same, I noticed that the alt light was on. Then the engine shut down about 1.5 miles from home.
I'd heard of war stories about rebuilt alternators so I sprang for a brandy new one. I also got a voltmeter that fits in the cigarette lighter so I can monitor the system voltage. All seemed good and the new alternator put out 14.2 to 14.5 volts. Except that the battery never seems to be fully charged. If I check the battery voltage with the engine off it typically reads 11.9 to 12.2 volts. I had Interstate Batteries check the battery. They thought it was okay, but offered to put a new battery in to keep me happy.
Six months and 8,000 miles later I'm up in Ontario back country (on vacation - no tools in the truck) and I notice the engine idles at 900 RPM instead of the usual 650 +/- RPM. Oh-oh, I also notice the volt meter is reading 11.9 volts and drops a tenth about every 10 miles.
Found a shop that was open and they installed a rebuilt alternator and it was putting out 14.2 to 14.5 volts. All was good (except for my wallet!).
Now, here we are six months and 5,000 miles later and the rebuilt alternator is struggling to put out 12.5 volts this afternoon. At a steady 50 MPH with the cruise Control on, the radio, and the heater fan on low, the voltage is bouncing between 12.2 volts and 12.7 volts.
Now to my questions:
1. Shouldn't an alternator put out 14.2 to 14.5 volts all the time? Not just when the alternator is new?
And
2. Is there anything on my truck that could be killing these alternators? Or am I just unlucky in the alternator lottery?
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I bought a truck recently and I am attempting to get the alternator to charge. A previous owner hacked up the wiring pretty badly. We found that they had connected the voltage regulator to the horn relay for some reason. Anyway, I am trying to get it rewired and have searched existing threads for info and I thought that I had the wiring sorted out, however it is still not charging the battery.
The alternator has been tested and works. The voltage regulator is new. This is how it is currently wired.
Regulator A Terminal --> Battery side of started solenoid --> Alternator Batt Post
Regulator F Terminal --> Alternator Fld Post
Regulator S Terminal --> Alternator Sta Post
Regulator I Terminal --> Empty
Regulator body --> Radiator Support --> Alternator Ground Post --> Neg batt
When running, the battery is showing about 11.8 and slowly dropping as it runs. The truck has an ammeter in the dash, however it looks like it is no longer connected. Does it need to be connected in order for the alternator to charge the battery?
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a buddy of mine has a 12 F250 that he bought new and is ready to add power locks and windows. I know we can get some aftermarket kits for both but he wants to use the factory door panels and switches from a power setup. I am sure we could use the factory window regulators and panels and just use and aftermarket wiring and flush mount switches. I had figured the wiring might be in the jambs but not in the doors, but when I pulled the trim back, we didn't find any extra wiring going to the rear doors, its a crew.
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I have a 2001 F250 with 7.3. We swapped the auto for a zf6 manual. We left the auto's shift position sensor tied to the frame and left in neutral. I did install a pcm from a manual transmission pickup. Also have the clutch position switch hooked up. I have an Edge Evolution CTS2 reprogrammer, and on the display the gear indication always shows P. I suspect that is why my cruise doesn't work. For interests sake, I tried manually adjusting the shift position sensor through all gears, and the reverse lights come on when in reverse but the Edge's display always shows P. My question is with a manual transmission, how does the pcm know that it is in gear? The only sensor that I am aware of is the reverse sensor on the zf6.
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I have a 2004 f250 I just purchased a complete 2008 dash with steering column, wheel everything. I also installed the 08 door panels. I would love to keep the newer column and wheel. I'm not worried about the wiring. Just need to know the wiring colors or numbers for each truck to match?
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I have a 99 F250 super duty 4x. It's all stock except for some speakers I replaced when I got it. The others were blown from my uncle. I don't have any amp or anything like that and the truck has ran fine for 3 years so I don't think the alternator has failed because of that. I'm thinking just age and 138k miles.
I was wondering what generation of alternator might be on there and how to tell the difference between the generations.
I have 12.5V with the truck off, about 14V with it on idle. As soon as I get it around 3000 RPM the battery light comes on and the voltage goes to 12.5V. Where can I get a rebuild kit for the alternator. I don't see anything at the major parts shops (napa, oreilly, autozone). Could this be the voltage regulator(that I did see at the stores)? I think its mounted to the back of the alternator. Is there any way to test the alternator further?
I'm a little confused as why it would be only above 3000 rpm. Are there two separate circuits for it? Like a low rpm one and then a different one above 3000 rpm?
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What I am trying to do it put in 2 led spot light for added backing up light. What i want to do is have them turn on when put into reverse but also have a switch i can use to turn them on when not in reverse. Just need to know what relay I need and if it even can be done.
I was also thinking of just taping into the wiring harness and adding a wire that goes to the spot lights and another wire that goes to a switch that I could turn on and supply power to the light when not in reverse (I know it will light the revers light also) but is it ok to do that?
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i have a 96 ranger and want to put cruise control in it. is the wiring there and what other parts do i need to get without going aftermarket.
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I have an 2015 450 chassis Class C motorhome. The backup camera is integrated into the Pioneer stereo in the dash. The stereo is wired into the headlight switch to automatically dim the display when the lights are turned on. Since I always drive with my headlights turned on, this makes it nearly impossible to see the screen during the daytime.
I learned from Pioneer what to do to disable this feature, but need to install a switch in the circuit to do this. I'm hoping to install a simple on/off toggle switch into the dashboard's existing space. In the picture below, I'm wanting to put the switch into the "round" hole marked Audio Jack.
My question is how do I get the "round plug" out of this hole? And need to know the diameter of the existing hole?
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2003 f350 6.0l single alternator. Replaced alternator a couple weeks ago with one from napa, noticed a humming with key on and the engine off . Traced it to the alternator, called napa they said it was not normal come get a replacement, put the new one on same thing. Charging in the 13.5 to 14v range the case of the alternator seems to get hot quickly when running.
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Over the weekend I was driving my 2000 F350 and the alternator died (found out later). The shop said they replaced the alternator but it wasn't charging. They later told me it was because the isolator failed. My 2nd battery WAS a yellow gel battery. Before the battery (in series) was an 50 amp circuit breaker...........that blew apart.........and the battery had a melted off side terminal. It looked like the 'sealed gel battery" had been 'leaking for a while" (as there was funky acid type white corrosion deposits in a few places. Any speculation what happened here?
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I have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
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I am trying to add courtesy lights to the existing reflectors in the front doors of my supercab. I can't find a wiring diagram that shows where to connect the light sockets. 1999 F250 SD...
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We have a 1999 F-350 V10 super duty. The alt was over charging and the gauges stopped working. Replacing the alt, the guages still don't work, and the new thing is the charge light and selt belt light comes on. The fuses 29 (5amp)and 30(30Amp) which are supposed to be key on hot only are hot at the same time. With these on, it causes a drain killing the battery. Also if the truck is started, the lights go out, but when you try to turn the vehicle off, it stays running, one with the battery disconnected. The only way to shut it down is pull the fuse box power fuse, 50(amp)Some one had been in the dash before we got this vehicle and busted, burned out or removed the check engine light. I can read codes and their vehicle runs fair and does operate. Could this be a dash board? Also this problem appears when the truck is sitting, and the key removed nothing on. No fuses are blown either.
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I just bought a hard to start 1990 F250. Per the board, just replaced all 8 glow plugs with Motorcraft. Still wouldn't start (it turns over but will only start if you use either). I attempted to install a new BWD brand (Borg Warner I believe) glow plug connector relay today...I removed the old no problem, but am unsure what wires to plug where....the only connection that I'm sure about is the blue wire that works the WTS feature...it plugs in easily but I don't know if there are other connections that need to be made or not? All the wires run from the posts and into the bottom of the unit.
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I've been wondering about this issue for about a year now. I haven't torn out the stereo to see if the wiring is jacked up (came with the truck). When I have the truck running and the radio is on I pull the light switch and the radio turns off, then turns back on...... The radio also buzzes when the truck is running, kind of like it has a bad ground but I've checked the grounds and powers and all is good.
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Here's the breakdown. I have a '95 Ford F150 that I bought the previous year and it has been nothing but a problem. The most recent problem is the attempt to turn on the headlights. I will pull the plunger to turn on the headlights but I will only get the parking lights and when attempting to turn on the high beams I still get nothing. The only way that I get any sort of lighting is if I pull on the turning stick (almost like doing a manual override on a tripped wall plugin). Now here's the kicker. I still have parking lights, brake, tail, cab, and dash lights. Winter in quickly approaching and the nights are already getting dark, pretty soon the days will be just as dark.
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Ok, I admit this isn't on a Ford, it's my old man's 1970 AMX, but it's an odd electrical problem we can't figure out. The front right blinker works fine when the headlights are OFF but when the headlights are on it doesn't blink. The other three work as they should. He has tried new bulbs, ohmed and voltage tested the sockets. Ohm reading was around 1-2ohms and voltage was 9v.
The voltage also fluctuated when the blinker was on but when you put a bulb in it didn't blink. He has noted the bulb on the passenger side is brighter than the other side. He's trying to get it ready to take to Pigeon Forge next weekend for a car show and I 4.5 hours away. What could be going on??? Could a bad headlight switch cause this? Bad socket?
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