Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2008 - With Climate Control On CC Won't Work - Printer Noise Form Dash?
Mar 25, 2015
Just purchased a 2008 F250 V10 Crew Cab with 64,000 miles. The truck has some electrical issues that didnt show up during the test drive/inspection. It seems that the HVAC head unit causes some interesting things to happen. The most obivous problem is that when you turn the climate control on and turn the fan speed up the CC will not work. If you turn the fan off but leave the HVAC control on CC starts working. At this point you can turn the fan speed back up and everything stays working. Not sure if its related but it also has the printer noise going on behind the dash which Ive read is the one of the blend door actuators going bad and the keyless entry pad will not accept a personal code(everything else works on it, factory code, lights up, two button lock). Any checks?
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I had the windshield wiper control replaced on my 91 F150 today and found out that the genius who did the repair (and, I might add, broke the wiper control in the first place) forgot to reconnect the dash lights. This was this particular garage's last chance. Everything else works -- idiot lights, hi-beam indicator, running lights, taillamps, hi-beams -- everything BUT the dash lights, so I know it's not the fuse.
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My 2005 Ford F-150 Lariat 4x4 5.4l V8. the climate control system will not let me lower the fan speed or let me change the airflow direction. and my heated seats will not work as well.. i looked at the fuse it was good.. and un-plugged the battery for 3 minutes.
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I have a 2008 LS360L with 4-zone climate control. For whatever reason, the rear seat controls and display do not work for climate control. The controls still work for radio, rear seat adjustment and window shades, but climate functions are unoperable.
Additionally, the 4-zone buttons on the nav touchscreen are now missing in the climate menu. There used to be left / right passenger settings and then a button to switch to rear seat settings. These options have all disappeared from the menu.
I can press the 4-zone physical button on dash and manually change temperature settings for driver or passenger by pressing physical driver / passenger temperature up / down buttons.
The only thing I can attribute to this is I had the dealer do a map upgrade to the nav system. All other features / functions work, but the timing is somewhat suspect... They really do not believe this upgrade caused the problem.
Are there hidden menus I may have hit to deactivate this feature?
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Tried to start my truck after sitting for 2 days in sub zero weather. wouldn't crank. pulled the batteries and charged them over night. Tried to start it the next day-wouldn't crank but the starter relay clicked. Was going to pull the starter and check it but decided to replace the relay first. replaced it and tried to start but now have no power to the cab-nothing comes on. I've checked the batteries with a load tester and they are ok. I've checked the fuses and they seem to be ok. when I tried to start it and the relay clicked there was a loud buzzing noise that seemed to be coming from under the dash. it has done this before but this time was louder than usual. I live out in the sticks so taking it somewhere is a last resort. It is a 1999 7.3 with 290000 miles.
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Looking for wiring diagram for the older Ford cruise control switches. I'm wanting to add an aftermarket system but use the factory switches. It's for a 99 ranger with the steering wheels like the mark 8s, older mustangs, explorers, and many others, had.
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2004. Hazards and brake lights work.
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Looking for wiring diagrams for a 97 gran marq. Specifically I want to hotwire, the climate control , to give me heat and defrost for more then 2 minutes an hour. I've got the climate control unit out of the dash, and the relays click just before the heat comes on for a few minutes. Of course that was an invitation to smack things with the screw driver. OOPS If there are no heater fuses hiding, besides the ones over the parking brake, I've now also destroyed the unit. Blocks of wood on the vacumm actuators, and wiring the fan direct will work with my unemployment check just fine. BRrrrrr it cold in the car...
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Let me start by saying electrical is something I really have no knowledge of....(never used any kind of an elec meter and don't have one) simple, Pos-grd and fuse, NP. I really don't want to fry something in these expensive new seats w/my normal trial and mostly ERROR!
The 08 (drivers) seat has 4 wires in the input clip.
GRN-RED (heavy gauge)
BLK-PURP (heavy gauge
BLU-RED
BLK-WHT
and my 01 whip out of the floor has a 3 wire setup.
GRN (heavy gauge)
BLK (heavy gauge)
BRN-BLU
I can wire PS side seat from fuse box and ground it NP. It only has a 2 wire set-up in the new seat.
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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I don't know if this goes here but I ha a ford f350 king ranch 2006 I got it 5 months ago the fog lights never did work. One of them was burnt out.
I replaced them both today and checked the fuse and they do not come on. I checked the fuse under the dash kick box. What else could be going on here hat I can look into?
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2004 F150 FX4, 5.4L, 116k
I have replaced the IWE solenoid ,alternator, spark plugs, air filter, idled pulley and check valve nearest to the IWE solenoid. The sound happens while in neutral and while in Drive at ~2250 RPM and above at an increasingly louder increments. The sound also happens when in neutral rolling down hill when engine speeds are above 2250 RPMs. The sound still happens while in 4x4 and does not stop if 4x4 is engaged while the noise is happening. The noise can be found while revving in park. It seems to be coming from inside the cab almost or center firewall area. However I can't find it with a stethoscope, I would compare it to electrical static.
[URL] .....
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03 F250 Instrument panel does not work. Have checked all fuses with a meter. Have already fixed broken wires from the OD button on shifter handle. and also the alternator is not charging. I need wiring diagram that shows the wires coming out the back of the fuse box so I can see if the fuse holder is burned out......
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I recenty was having some problems with my 2003 6.0 liter. My FICM connection was not seated all of the way which casued my truck to just die without warning....... AFter I had fixed that, my stereo died. Just dead??? Nothing...EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS???
So, after I had messed with everything I could think of, I thought, OK new DVD/Stereo time.
I checked fuse #32 which was the fuse to my stereo. The fuse is fine...BUT...There's no friggen power to the fuse via my test light. Test light works on other fuse spots so I know i"m not getting power to the fuse #32.
Since I don't have any power to this fuse....WHAT NOW???? How to trouble shoot this problem?
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I recently bought a 92 F250 and love it but the blinkers will not work. I have replaced both flashers and the multifunction switch. (the wipers had issues too that were fixed by the switch...) Now what? Im at a loss..
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My work truck is an 03 F250 5.3L. My flashers recently stopped working. I turn them on, and they will work anywhere from 5 seconds to a few minutes, then either blink rapidly and shut off, stay solid for a few seconds and shut off, or just shut off. I push the switch off and on again, and the cycle repeats. All my other lights and turn signals work fine with no issues.
This wouldn't be a huge issue, but where I work I need the flashers a lot. The truck has a bar light and siren/pa system wired into it, but not to the lights or anywhere near that. I can't say exactly how it's wired because I didn't install it, but I followed the wires and they don't go under the steering wheel where I would assume the relay and wires for flashers would be.
What sounds like is wrong? I wouldn't think it would be the relay because then I would think that I would be having problems with more than just the flashers. So I'm not sure if there would just be a ground issue or if it's the actual switch that turns on the hazards. Also, there are no lights that are burnt out.
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so I recently purchased a 2007 f350 SCSB and my reverse lights don't work. I am trying to trouble shoot the cause... So far I've replaced the bulbs and tested the plugs and im not receiving any power to them... Where to start to look for the problem?
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I have a 97 E-150 with A/C. When I turn on the climate control unit to either heat or a/c and the blower motor fan control switch to any setting I do not feel anything coming from any vents above or below the dash. However every once in awhile I can hear that it is putting a small strain on the motor as the motor tends to bog down a little like it normally does when the a/c is on. When the heater control unit is turned off there is no strain on the motor.
I don't want to go replacing things and blowing money that isn't necessary on parts that aren't bad. I would like to get this fixed before the cold weather actually gets here.
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Have any control over the fan speed? The temperature? How does it work?
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I have a 2010 Prius and I leave the climate control on. When I start the car the AC will only work sometimes. I can run errands, where I make 5 stops shutting the engine off each time. It will be hotter then heck in the cabin and after starting the car the ac won't blow air out the vents. Sometimes I can shut the car off and restart it and then the AC will turn on. When it actually blows air, it's nice and cold. If the car is on and the AC won't work, I will turn down the climate control to the coldest setting and it still won't come on. But the next time I start the car the AC might work fine. To me, it seems like a relay or something electrical isn't turning the ac on when the car is turned on. Or maybe the blower motor is getting stuck.
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I have a 04 explorer I have been trouble shooting and the master switch works all but the passenger window wont work it at all but all the others work fine, its not the switches replaced both, the passenger window switch will roll the window down but not back up. I checked for power there is power to the switch in the passenger side, the ground is good. I can pull the plug off the motor and hook a jumper ground up and the switch will make it go back up. I have been working in body shops for 40 years and now this is the first one to stump me
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