Ford Wiring/Electrical :: Overhead Console Display Quit Working
Jul 10, 2014
I have an 03 F350 Lariat, the overhead console display quit working awhile back (about 18 months ago) and so far my only option is to buy a new one from Ford. I have looked online, on ebay, local wreckers and have come up with nothing. I have come close a few times but the wrecks didn't have a sunroof so the display is different. I searched and found ways to fix the resistors but mine do not seem to have the poor solder problem that some do. Where I can find a replacement display?
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On my 2000 Ex my overhead console screen does not work. I have searched and found a few F series ones but nothing about the removal of the huge console. Is it pretty much the same process?
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My overhead display quit working earlier this week. The truck has 120k miles. Is this display on it's own fuse? I only used it for the outside temperature readout but I would really like to get it working again.
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Turn signals quit working on my 2006 E-150. Swapped out the relay under the dash and it did nothing. Also noticed the brake lights aren't working. The headlights and taillight a are working. I pulled the fuses under dash for the lights and they tested ok. I did notice the flasher relay was making clicking sounds intermittently even when not touching anything.
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1997 Ford Expedition 4x4
When I push the switch for the drivers window I can hear the relay in the fuse block make a click but window doesn't move. If I push the switch for any other window (on the drivers door or any other door) no click at the relay and no window movement. I've swapped the relay with other relays in the fuse block but nothing changed.
I've tested the driver side window motor by running 12 volts directly and the motor works fine. When I press the PDL switch I hear a buzzing sound coming from the passenger floor area behind the glove box but the locks do not go up or down. I started the truck and when I put it in gear I can hear the PW relay in the fuse block clicking repeatedly. Put the truck in Park & the clicking stops.
I was told (on another forum) that the problem is most likely my GEM module. Bought a used 1 on eBay and installed it today but nothing changed.
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85 f150. My driver side brake light and turn signal in the back quit working. The tail light works tho which is a different filament. The bulb is good and I changed the flasher relay...the circle thing in the fuse panel. Everything else works just fine. looking for a starting point.
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Looking for the wiring diagram for the blue connector in the overhead console? This would be for a '13 S without sunroof. And w the part numhat isber for it, that might come in handy too. I've searched and it seems like most of the answers were check with a meter to see, but trying every possible combination of conditions, lights on/off, doors open/closed, key in/out has left me frustrated and confused, and I'd rather be certain, than keep doing hit or miss.
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My overhead with temp, compass and mpg stopped working.
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The read out light on my overhead console (the read out that tells the awesome fuel mileage Im getting) isnt working, and hasnt been since I got my excursion a month ago. Thats the only thing on it that doesnt work and was wondering if it could be a bulb, or is this a common problem and if so whats the fix?
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Wife just told me tonight that the overhead console and rear heater are not working in the excursion. Of course, we have a 3 hour drive tomorrow and it is cold outside.. The posts seem to center on either the readout not working or the heater not working, but not both. Trying to minimize time troubleshooting outside in the cold.
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I have checked the fuses, Checked the relays, Checked for pinched wires and checked for a loose connection at the fuse box, Both power mirrors and the overhead console lights do not work, Power windows work fine, Manual seats .
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The overhead council temp/compass/ mpg on my 2000 xlt stopped working, who has fixed this already?
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One of my outside roof lights quit. I replaced the bulb and it's still down. These are all on one fuse right? 2001 Super Duty is the year.
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I have a 2009 camry with sunroof my overhead console is not working properly there is a 2007 camry console for sale that looks the same,my question is will it fit and work properly?
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I *think* I'm having trouble with the alternator on my 2002 Navigator with the 5.4L DOHC engine.
A year ago in Feb 2014 the alternator quit charging. I thought the headlights were a little dim, but when the radio turned itself off and then the heater fan did the same, I noticed that the alt light was on. Then the engine shut down about 1.5 miles from home.
I'd heard of war stories about rebuilt alternators so I sprang for a brandy new one. I also got a voltmeter that fits in the cigarette lighter so I can monitor the system voltage. All seemed good and the new alternator put out 14.2 to 14.5 volts. Except that the battery never seems to be fully charged. If I check the battery voltage with the engine off it typically reads 11.9 to 12.2 volts. I had Interstate Batteries check the battery. They thought it was okay, but offered to put a new battery in to keep me happy.
Six months and 8,000 miles later I'm up in Ontario back country (on vacation - no tools in the truck) and I notice the engine idles at 900 RPM instead of the usual 650 +/- RPM. Oh-oh, I also notice the volt meter is reading 11.9 volts and drops a tenth about every 10 miles.
Found a shop that was open and they installed a rebuilt alternator and it was putting out 14.2 to 14.5 volts. All was good (except for my wallet!).
Now, here we are six months and 5,000 miles later and the rebuilt alternator is struggling to put out 12.5 volts this afternoon. At a steady 50 MPH with the cruise Control on, the radio, and the heater fan on low, the voltage is bouncing between 12.2 volts and 12.7 volts.
Now to my questions:
1. Shouldn't an alternator put out 14.2 to 14.5 volts all the time? Not just when the alternator is new?
And
2. Is there anything on my truck that could be killing these alternators? Or am I just unlucky in the alternator lottery?
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Just bought an 04 Super duty with the factory plug 7pin and 4 pin plug. Checked the fuses and finally tracked down the 2 relays under the hood but can't seem to find anything wrong. Everything on the trailer works except for the running lights. Is there another fuse or something I have missed? Trailer works fine on my buddies Duramax and worked fine on my old 97.
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Need a wire diagram. I have a connector in the cab that has red,blue,lt green,white wires. It's causing my brake lights not to work. I need a wire diagram that shows were they go. I can't find these wires in my Haynes manual.
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I just bought a used 1999 explorer sport 4wd and my overhead console, with temp and digital compass is not working (doesn't come on at all).
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I drive a 2004 Ford Ranger. When I use the remote to unlock my truck, there is a grinding electrical sound, and the driver side door does not unlock. The passenger side does, though. Also, when I try to use my key to unlock the door, the driver's side door will not unlock with the key. I can open the driver's side door from the inside by using the handle, but the electric lock button will not unlock the door. It seems like the piece that pops up when the truck is unlocked has a hard time raising to unlock the door. Neither my boyfriend nor I can figure out what the problem is. I find that when I take my truck in for any problem, people at the dealership try to take advantage of the fact that I'm female and don't know much about cars. Need to know what is going on before I take it in anywhere to get fixed.
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I recently changed out the power boost canister for the brakes on a 1990 f-150 2wd. It was successful but now i have no cruise control. I double checked my plugs, all good. I checked my brake lights, all good. brake pedal seems fine and completely raised when not in use. i looked for a fuse and can't find it for that system, seems odd. it's not in fuse jct under dash, can't find a fuse jct under hood, seems odd also. No check engine light has lit.
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I have a 1983 E350 RV with a 460 engine. It would appear that many "Mechanics" have altered the wiring in different ways. That being said I think the charging and starting electrics are fairly untouched. My issue is that once it has been running for a while the interior lights start to fluctuate so does the radio display. The AC fan speeds up and slows down and I feel like there is not enough gas being pumped up too due to some coughing and sputtering. When I press the brakes the radio stops playing and if I have the AC on it gets worse. Today I changed the voltage regulator and it made no difference. This vehicle has two batteries, one for starting the van like normal and one to run the coach part. The alternator charges both. I think it must be a bad ground somewhere but not sure where to start.
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