GMC - Sierra :: 1987 - Runs Bad And Won't Stay Idling?
Mar 1, 2011
I have a 87 gmc sierra with a 305 tbi motor, i drove it and parked it for a year and it was running fine, i went to go start it again it fired up and high idles for about 5 seconds then dies, I have put fresh gas in it and ran some seafoam threw it, changed fuel filter, rebuilt the tbi system with all new gaskets and seals, injectors seem to work as they should, i have replaced the distributor,and the cap and rotor, new plugs, IAC, coolant temp sensor, map sensor, egr valve, egr solenoid,, new oil and filter, and checked all vacuum lines, grounds,checked all the sensors with the ohmn meter and all getting the correct power, its pretty close on timing, i just cant seem to figure it out, it will idle high and sound good then fall on its face, the only way to keep it running is you have to pump the peddle, it wont rev up at all it just sputters and dies.
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I have a 1995 GMC that I have owned since new. It has 212,000 miles on it, a 305 TBI, and a manual five speed. It started running bad all at once. It idles rough, at different speeds and never settles down, (between 900 and 1300 rpm. It smells like raw gas, smokes, and has no power to get started from a stop. I checked the vacuum, it is at 19" at all rpms. The MAP sensor reads 0.3VDC when off, 4.12VDC when idling, and 1.5VDC at WOT. It appears to have 12PSI fuel pressure (after a messy test set up!) on the fuel pump side of the fuel filter (filter replaced 10,000 miles ago). The EGR valve appears to cycle OK when I suck on the vacuum line so I assume it works OK. I found a bad TBI flange gasket and replaced it. It runs slightly better but still smells like raw gas and has no power. When I try to accelerate, it immediately has no power, like a big vacuum leak. The idle is close to normal (900rpm = normal). Do I just start replacing parts?
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My car sometimes runs like a dream and then abruptly will lose power, act like it's not getting fuel, not respond to the accelerator and sputter and buck. My mechanic has rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned fuel filter, cleaned out tank, replaced hoses. He's familiar with Porsche engines and I know he's not blowing smoke up my nose, so to speak. He's tried everything he can think of. I never know when it's going to act up. It will run smoothly, I will drive it hard, drive it slow and easy, corner hard, not hard, and it sometimes stays happy, sometimes decides it doesn't want to run. It improves when clutch is pushed in, acts like it wants to respond, then after I let the clutch out and apply gas, it starts to buck and there's no power. Haven't been able to get it out of first when it does that.
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I just bought this nicely used 1991 GMC Sierra 1500 series pickup truck for $650. It started up and ran fine when I gave the seller the money - the few leaks in the break lines.
Easy fix right!
So my son (19 that knows it all) and I went and changed all the brake lines (made everything one size 3/8 line.) Filled it up with break fluid and started the truck. I had my so pumping the breaks and holding them (his first time) I bled the far rear (passenger side) then I had him turn the steering wheel to the right so I could bleed the front driver side.
He turned, and turned and turned until the engine died.
Now the truck only runs when the steering wheel is turned all the way to the right or all the way to the left.
Going to pull the codes to see what the heck is going on....
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so I have a 1987 2.9L Ranger that likes to stall out when its idling after reaching temperature. Ive replaced all sorts of sensors (IAC, Coolant Temp, and PCV) and so far no luck. I was trying to figure out what the relearn procedure was for the IAC or get an input on any other possible sources of error. I haven't changed TPS yet.
What the engine does is when it gets up to temp, the engine will start to loose speed, and will start to shutter. Then it'll kick back up run fine for a few seconds and drop again, it'll do this for a few minutes then completely just choke out.
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1987 Acura Integra 165k... After parking the car, and turning off the engine, and locked the car, the brake light continue to stay on for about 10mins - then goes off on its on.What seems to be the problem - easy to fix?
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I have an 87 f150 inline 6 efi. The truck will not rev over 2000 rpm even when idling. It has a new fuel filter. What this could be?
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My 87 lesabre has run great for many years, but lately, it has been quitting on me. It happens randomly, usually while driving slower or idling. It just suddenly quits almost as if it's out of gas. It usually starts right back up, sometimes have to wait 20-30 seconds. It runs fine, not sluggish or anything, up until it quits. Had a couple mechanics look at it, when I told one about it he thought for sure it was going to be the fuel injectors but they all checked out fine.
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Why the frame mounted fuel pump might run after the key is turned off? Then when you turn the key on it may or not run. If it does run it keeps running. shouldn't this shut off after pressurizing the line? is their a pressure switch in the pump that's failing? This has the 3 pump system...
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Our mechanic is stumped. The Frontier runs hot when idling. The clutch fan and thermostat have been replaced. The radiator has been flushed. When you are driving or you turn off the A/C, the temp goes down. The next suggestion is to replace the radiator, but I'm already hundreds into this so I hate to do anything else unless I'm pretty sure it is going to fix it.
We do know that the catalytic converter needs replacing. Could this have anything to do with it?
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1987 Acura Integra Automatic, 160k I have been noticing - mostly for every start (there are a few in between that did not have that sound).
When starting, a loud sound (some what unbearable) heard and was hesitant and then the engine starts. Once started it runs fine. It is not the usual sound that the ignition makes when going bad.
What seems to be the issue? Right after I drained and filled AT fluid, it heard the first time. I have been doing AT fluid since nearly 10yrs ago with Honda fluid. I only did drain and fill and it went smoothly. In 2007, the tranny was replaced. After starting, the car runs smoothly - it is only when starting or just before engine try to start. Batt and alternator tests fine.
It hardly did it today - I might have once heard a girding sound just before starting.
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I have a 1999 ford escort 4 door sedan, when the car is cold I can get it to start and it will run just fine, after it starts to warm up, it starts to make a misfire/ sputtering noise when it is starting to die when idling. when I am driving it, there are no signs it is going to die.
I took it to the ford dealership today and they said that I need to replace the fuel pump, and the relay control module.
I just replaced the fuel pump a week ago because I thought that was the problem. So I am thinking it is the Relay Control Module- only problem is I don't know where it is located, where it is?
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I have a 56 Belair with a small block 327 in it. Runs hot when idling or slow speed. Original radiator with brass cowling on top. Can the radiator be cored or cleaned out? Is there a fluid that will work? How about a special oil?
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Coming home from a road trip we stopped for gas not 5 minutes later the check engine light started flashing. The car was fine as long as you were puching on the gas but as soon as you slowed to a stop it would either die or shudder until I gave it some more gas. Being stupid I figured that I could probably get it home since It was only 25 miles of freeway driving and I wouldn't have to stop until I got near my home. I took it to a mechanic the next day and they said that it was my timing belt.
The next day I get a call from them telling me my timing belt is fine but they discovered that a valve adjuster shim is missing on cylinder 6 and the adjuster cup is jammed down as well as a crack in the locating pin hole so that the pin is moving causing the cam to shift in relation to the cam gear. They suggested I rebuild or replace the cylinder heads and may need to replace the engine. What this could be?
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1993 5.0 mustang. The car wil start but will not stay idling. if the accelerator is gunned, it will run. The car has been tuned up (cap, rotor, plugs, air & fuel filter, also oil and filter). We thought maybe the fuel was old as it had been sitting for a few months so we drained out the old fuel and put in some fresh gas...Still the same issue. Got ahold of a fuel pressure tester from the loaner program at Autozone. The guy behind the counter looked up the spec and said it should be between 35 and 40 PSI. After putting the gauge on the Mustang, we got a reading of 30 PSI. Would this reading cause the current issue? Is a new fuel pump in this car's future?
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ok,up to yesterday, my wife's car started and ran fine. but we had not driven it in about 3weeks, and it was on empty. well, my kids would listen to the radio and, i think, starting it while we were at work. anyway, they ran it out of gas. so put gas in it, 3gallons, turned the key on and off a couple of times to get a good prime. started it up, died, i figured not enough fuel, yet tried again. started, but started spitting and sputtering and idling really ruff, had to hold to the floor to keep it running. removed the maf. it started and did the same. finally, i held down the gas and brake at the same time, took off to the store, got gas, but it died half way there. got it to the pump, put more gas thinking that's the problem. nope, the same. got it home, but when i let off the gas, it idles like it's not getting fuel and dies. so, any clue what it is? remember, 3 weeks ago it ran fine.
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We have two 2000 Echos with 125,000 and 130,000 miles on them. We took my husband's Echo into the shop because it died when idling, and then it started running rough and stumbling. Also needed an alignment. They fixed it by replacing the idle sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and worked on the valve train. They said they couldn't do the alignment because the control arms needed to be replaced due to the bushings. A week before his car went into the shop, my car started running rough and stumbling. So I took it in when I picked his car up. Same diagnosis except for the idle. Is it reasonable for BOTH to need all this work at the same approx. mileage?
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In the first two years of ownership of my Passat, when I would turn the car on during cold days, the rpms would stay at 1500 for a quick 20 seconds until the car got a bit warm and then would drop down to about 800. Recently, when I turn the car on cold days, the rpms drop directly to 900 and below.
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1998 Jeep Cherokee sport ... My mechanic tells me that my #1 fuel injector is always spraying and that that is why the jeep runs rough. This is after he already told me that my injectors were clogged and needed to be replaced (which he did). When the car is idling for a while, the exhaust really begins to smell like gas, so this seems to make some sense to me, unlike his previous diagnosis. But now he is telling me that I need to replace the computer to fix this problem.
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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Okay, I just bought the truck (all stock except for straight pipe and cai). Nothing bullet proofed yet. It has 125,xxx miles on it and for the 4 months I had it I had no issue. Well now while idling or driving the glow plug light will flash on then off and stay off. I'll have no power and after a few minute it'll die on me. But start right back up. Is this a harness issue? 2006 6.0.....
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