GMC - Sierra :: 1998 - Constant Misfire At Cylinder 1
Oct 21, 2015
I recenlty bought a 98 GMC sierra for a great price knowing it needed engine work. It has a constant misfire on cylinder one and it causes the whole truck to shake constantly no matter whether idle or acceleration or slowing down. At first I was thinking a burnt exhaust valve. I ran a compression check (the engine was cold though) and I heard a cold compression check means nothing. But in doing so I found that cylinder 1 has the highest compression out of all. I plan on another compression test tomorrow when engine is warm. But until then I was thinking maybe a bad injector on cylinder one? It is a "spider injection system" and I was wondering if it was possible for one injector to be clogged or not working and the rest be fine. I have seen where one will get hung up and cause hydrolock.
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I have a 2012 CC TSI. Driving normally this morning cylinder 1 had a constant misfire that I cannot diagnose. I have swapped plugs and coils and still cylinder 1 is dead. Then I compression tested. Got around 150 PSI and it holds. And I got the same pressure on the other cylinders. So my question is: What else haven't I checked? What could be causing this constant misfire?
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So my 2001 5.3L truck has 206,648 miles on it. Over the years, it's been serviced every 5K with the only big repair being head gaskets which were done about a year ago.
Two weeks ago, I hit the gas to merge into traffic and the SES light started flashing and I could tell there was a miss. I got off the gas and a few moments later, the light went out and the miss was gone. I pulled the code and it was P0303 so I change the plugs, wires, and the coil pack for Cyl 3 fuel filter and ran a double dose of Sea Foam through the gas tank.
Bad news is I still have the problem. The truck drives fine; in fact, I pulled my bass boat 75 mile round trip yesterday. Everything is OK till you hit the gas hard to merge or to go up a big hill or pass someone. When you hit the gas hard, SES starts flashing and there is a miss. I also noticed the valves ping loudly when the SES is flashing. The only code it's giving me is P0303.
Could this be a bad injector not delivering enough fuel at higher RPM/under load? I was going to swap injectors and see if the miss moves. Any tips on popping those injectors out?
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I have a 98 F150 4.2L with code P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire.
This is what I have done so far. New plugs, coil pack, plug wires, TPS, EGR, EGR Vacuum control regualier, DMCP, canister, all of these parts are new and was bought from the ford place. Have taken the egr value, and egr value bracket off to see if carbon blockage was present, but it was clean. It was clean in the motor also. Have blown air through the metal tube that connects to the egr value and it come out the tail pipe very good, so no blockage their. Have cleaned throtle body and injectors. Have tested fuel injector with tester and it works correctly. Motor holder pressure. Have correct fuel pressure.
Do not have any vacuum leaks, it holds vacuum correctly. Crankshaft sensor is fine. Went throw 4 cans of break parts cleaner, spraying on intake while motor was running, motor did not idle up or change. I have done all this and it still shows code P0301, and it still skips. Here's the catch, if you unplug the vaccum off the egr the misfire goes away, or unplug the EGR vacuum control regulator it goes away, or if you unplug the DMCP sensor it goes away, it does not matter witch one you unplug, the misfire goes away.
I have had several different test done the the truck, but all the test only show that one code P0301, they do not show any other codes, or problem's with my truck.
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P0306 (ok #6 missfire) with P0171 & P0174 --- Do I chase electrical or fuel or both. Afraid to assume anything but probably would normally address the misfire electrical first.... Don't want to go down that 'primrose path' if others have been there first!
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1998 ranger 4.0L. I ran my scanner on my truck to day and my 2 bank 1 sensors seem to be bouncing between .150 and .700 but my bank 1 sensor 2 seems to be stuck at 680-720 and not bouncing, is this normal?
I did pull a code po135 heater circuit malfunction BANK 1 SENSOR 1 ...
Also I am not sure where my fuel trims should be...
My
ST1 10.0
LT1 25.0
ST2 12.0
LT2 25.0
closed loop.
When I first got the truck I pulled codes for lean bank 1 and 2 also a cylinder #4 misfire and the bank 1 sensor 1 heater circuit. I reset the codes and the heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1 popped the mil light in 5 min. So I am starting with the o2 sensors. I've not found any vacuum leaks at this point.
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This truck has 180km on it and runs fine except as of lately i have developed a surge while at constant speed. When i step on the gas it does not seem to happen.....it only happens when I reach a constant speed. The odd time it will surge at idle and the engine will rev up and down on its own also. When at highway speed it seems to not do this. The truck never dies completely....just surges slightly.
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I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
Read more: [URL] ....
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06 F150 fx4 has cly 7 miss fire cly 6 has oil on plug .Check engine light comes on only if you step into the gas, The oil was low. If you drive normal the check engine light does not come on, but you can fill the miss when in gear. Change the plugs an coil add oil still no change.
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Had a constant CEL two week ago, the car was shaking because the misfire. I went to an european auto shop, it ended up with replacing the intake manifold valve and charged me $700. They explained the valve could not be closed, and that caused a misfire(s). There were three fault codes on report.
This week, I got another constant CEL. I went to the shop and they charged me $50 for scanning the code. and told me it is a misfire on Cylinder 2. there is no fault on intake manifold valve. They dont fix that for free. I went back home and open the engine cover. The ignition coil 2 was replaced. Now, I really doubt if they replaced my valve or not. maybe just changed the coil and reset the alarm.
I have swapped coil 2 and coil 3 to see if the fault follows the coil. How can I verify if they replaced my manifold valve?
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I have a 98 gmc k 1500 350 5.7 . Was having an issue with the truck bucking it would die very briefly thought maybe bad gas. Added treatment and few days later it was doing the same this time back fire check engine lite came on checked code mass air and cam position sensor.
I pulled cap and when I was about to take rotor button out I noticed play I could actually push down on it. I pulled distributor and confirmed the play I replaced new complete distributor and yes I forgot to mark position so line tdc #1 compression stroke installed distributor timing was off.
But running rough so I re adjusted timing now it just cranks I have played with the timing alot so I tested the coil had some strange ohm readings ( high quality meter) and have voltage 12 vdc at coil and module replaced coil today still same thing I have fuel and 60 psi of fuel pressure and it holds with key off and it's not the pass lock security does not flash. Fuel pressure regulator can't be leaking.
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2004 GMC Sierra 2500 HD, 227,000 miles 6.0L V8.
While driving up hills or increasing load, the CEL will flash multiple times, I pull over as I know CEL flashing is not good. I turn the truck off, allow it to sit for a few minutes, whip out the code scanner, only code that was there happens to be P0300. Truck has poor MPGS, idles rough, loss of power. this happens every time I drive this vehicle as I use this truck to pull my trailer that weighs around 4000 lbs. Problems come and go. Some days I can drive the truck for an hour with no problems, come up to a red-light, BAM, CEL is flashing, truck is bouncing side to side due to the poor idle, other days this happens while sitting in the parking lot of my job with the ac on.
Truck has been to the shop several times as I'm no mechanic. Parts replaced are as follows:
- Fuel pump
- Throttle Body
- All plugs
- All wires-All Coils
- Intake Manifold Gasket-
- Battery
- Sensor 1 Bank 1 O2 Sensor
- Sensor 1 Bank 2 O2 sensor
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My 1998 GMC Sierra K1500 has developed an intermittent high speed miss. I doesn't miss while idling but with no apparent regularity it will jerk as though the engine lost power for just a moment. I just replaced the distributor cap and rotor and the plugs and plug wires appear to be fairly new (I bought the truck last May). The truck has about 213,000 miles on it.
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My 1.4 petrol opel astra keeps misfiring every few weeks . When I turn it on the check engine light comes on and the engine shakes so much I can feel it in the steering wheel. When it does I take it out on the road and floor it in 2nd gear for a while and it settles down again for a week or two then one day I jump in and surprise surprise another misfire. It's just been serviced and had timing belt changed. Spent too much money on it in the last few months so I'm wondering if this could be one issue too many. What may cause this kind of constant misfire...
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My Sierra has the 5.7 Vortec engine with 230,000 miles. Ever since I bought the truck at 208k I've been having a random No-Start condition... It can be cold, warm, or not ran for weeks. I've replaced the Fuel pump (just the pump, not the sender too), MAP sensor, ICM, TPS, and Camshaft position sensor. I'm still thinking its a fuel issue. I get 61 PSI at the test port when ignition is on, 55 when cranking, and 54 while running.
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So I got a 98 GMC sierra and the ect sensor that is on it only had one wire running to it. Obviously the previous owner tried to make something work. I bought a new ect sensor and pigtail to rewire it but can't find the ground wire anywhere. Looking for a wiring diagram?
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I recently had intake manifold gaskets replaced in my 98 gmc sierra 4x4 pickup 5.7 . The day I drove it home from the shop it ran fine, even day after but the next day I noticed it seem to idle a little rough and even at normal driving, sometimes seems worse than others. No service engine light has yet to come on. Could there be vacuum leak, trash in intake or bad wires and plugs. Plugs, wires, rotor button and distributor cap are only year and half old.
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A few days ago my 98 C1500 started having what I can only imagine is some type of torque converter issue. While driving at a constant speed the RPM will surge by about 500-600. This surge does not coincide with any type of acceleration, it's more like the converter is letting go and the RPM's just rise and fall back down. The fluctuations also seem to stop after about 15 minutes of normal driving. I have had no real noticeable transmission issues. At first i assumed it was my tranny fluid just breaking down so to get me home I used a bottle of Lucas.
The bottle seemed to do the trick for only a couple of days and now the problem is back...no better, no worse. The only difference I have noticed is that before the addition of the Lucas my fluid looked perfect and now it seems there is a bit of varnish. No smell, nothing seems burnt, just a little dirty. I haven't changed the tranny fluid for about 70k and the truck now has roughly 160K on it. My concern is that if I do change it the transmission will crap completely and I'll be on the hook for a rebuild.
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I have a 98 ford Explorer that has some serious trans problems. It all started a while back when I was pulling a small 10 foot trailer and when I go to where I was going the trans puked out what looked like all of its internal fluids. It was a hot day, and these problems seem to be exacerbated by the heat but who knows. Yes the check engine light is on. I also have the occasional O/D OFF light blinking at me. As of late the vehicle has started to act like it has a stall converter on it. I have to rev to nearly 3k RPM before it will engage.
I changed the fluid and filter about 2 months ago and the fluid is already grey and nasty. The vehicle has also started going FORWARD in ALL gears, Reverse, Neutral, etc. all are forward gears now. The trans occasionally overheats and pukes out a large amount of fluid but I cannot tell where it is coming from. At road speed (55 MPH) the engine surges when it is at a constant 2500 RPM. I know my outlook is grim but if I just need a new torque converter I would like to know before I go the the Salvage yard for a different transmission. BTW. The engine WAS replaced around 12,000 miles ago with a donor engine from a flipped vehicle.
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I have a 1998 f150 xlt, supercab, 4x4, 4.6 Romeo (truck production date is 12/97). And I have a oil leak.
Its on the drivers side of the engine. There is a nipple on the head, next to the firewall, directly above where the exhaust pipe and exhaust manifold meet. It looks to have some sort of bolt/flush stud inside the nipple. I have oil seeping by the bolt/stud and leaking onto my exhaust pipe. its a constant but slow drip.
What this is or how to fix it? Is this a common problem? I can take a pic but cant find my camera at the moment.
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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