GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: 2.0 Low Oil Light Comes On - Sensor Malfunction
May 27, 2015
So the motor has a new oil pump and pickup and was all cleaned out. Sludge is not the issue here. I'm running the royal purple filter ( the equivalent of mann 950/4) and royal purple 5w30. My heart dropped after the light came on on the first drive. I pulled out over and checked the oil and for leaks and... full with no leak. So I checked the temp and proceeded to drive home. I don't have an oil pressure gauge but I'm getting the bottom of the fill cap with oil so I know it's making it all the way to the top of the motor, and the motor is not loud or sounding starved.
Basically, I wanted a second opinion that it is most likely oil pressure sensor malfunction. Garrett 60 trim, feed and return lines are brand new and sufficient diameter.
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The car is a 2005.5 GLI (75k mi) w/ EvoTech Stg1 software, GHL stack intake, and an Iridium billet diverter valve.
Well today I was driving and the Malfunction Indicator Light on the dash came on and started blinking. When I stepped on the accelerator, the car felt like it had 1/4 the power and began shaking. The car idles kind of weakly, and feels like it has no power when you step on the gas. Also, when you step on the gas the car will shake. The strength of the shaking depends on how hard I press on the throttle, more throttle = more shaking. There is no shaking when it idles or when I have it cruising, only when accelerating.
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My brake pad sensor light came on today. How long do I have until they start to ruin the rotors?
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I have an '05 GLI @ 45,000/mi. The sensor light came on for my brake pads about a week ago. So obviously I need new brake pads (front & rear? not sure...I know the sensor is only for the front). But I was also wondering if I need to replace the rotors.
I understand there is a measurement for the OEM rotors to tell when they need to be replaced. There is a little lip on the them, more so on the front than back. And they feel slightly grooved.
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If you don't have a high flow cat on, will it throw ur check engine light on, saying its the rear 02 sensor....
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When I bought my 2003 20th it was completely stock, except for a pos blow off valve had been installed, and get this, the diverter valve was left on, and just capped off. I installed a no name CAI, and the check engine light came on, i had it turned off and when i start the car, or rev the engine high at all, triggers again.
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I have a light flickering on and off that claims the door is open, after a few months and a lot of testing I have come to the assumption that the sensor in my trunk hatch is sending a relay to the computer as if the door is open.... I can't find a latch sensor or relay for this thing, just the striker plate and the wiring that unlocks the switch as well as the wiring for the rear wiper blade....
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Well, driving down the road just like any other day. I go from 1st to 2nd gear. It feels like I missed a shift, no big deal decide to put it in 3rd. Missed 3rd gear...... weird, no big deal through it in 4th and was on my way. Got to a red light, no 1st or 2nd gear. Where 1st and 2nd gear are, it feels like there is nothing there when i tried to shift into gear. If I go into 3rd gear its now 1st gear, 4th gear is 2nd gear.Had a mechanic look at my car, and the linkage and clutch are fine. He feels that something minor broke inside the transmission.
A) What do you think might be broken?
B) How could this happen?
Driving my car like a baby, I am never hard on my clutch. No pre-warning, no bad sounds, and I have never had an issue with my transmission before. I am hoping I do not have to pull my transmission out but it looks like I may not have a choice...
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I have a 377 gti 2002 and just the other day i had some hesitation on take off. it sounded like the engine was cutting the fuel, at the time i had an o2 sensor code so i replaced the o2 and got new spark plugs while i was at it. it was still hesitating and cutting out so i figured it might be the maf because ive already replaced it once, i cleaned it and still doing the same things. i called my local vw/audi shop (audub) and he said it might be the pcv valve. i checked to see if there was air sucking in through the oil dip stick and the oil cap. its running just fine at idle and it seems that in first and second gear that its hesitating at 1000-2000 rpm and the higher gears are fine. could a leak cause this or is the pcv system bad?
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I've been having trouble with my rear wiper since forever. Every time i try to use the washer fluid for the rear, it doesn't squirt right and fills up the motorized lock for the trunk and malfunctions the lock for a day or 2 until it drys. I had this same problem with my old 1.8t gti, just in that case i had to have the whole lock replaced due to the damage from the washer fluid (luckily the dealer payed for it).
I was thinking maybe swapping it out for the polo rear wiper on ecs tuning.
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So basically a couple months ago I picked up a 03 20th and GTI, I love the thing to pieces, recently I've got into drive it and I can watch my temp gauge steadily climb to 90 and stop. (before I go any further, I haven't gotten any overheat warnings or anything like that, I've just noticed my car is really hot all the time and the temp gauge goes to 90 within a minute or so of driving but doesn't go over). heat works fine, I've gone in the engine and tested a few things, tested the fans by jumping the connections, my large fan is dead but the small works fine. to my understanding, the large fan isn't used much unless it's really hot anyway. so I removed it and continued trying to find my problem, I felt the rad after letting the car run for a bit, the top half was hot but the bottom half was cool, took the hoses off and flushed my rad thinking maybe something was clogging it, water ran through fine, so I put it back together, put new coolant and tried again. same thing. so I took it for a rip and came back, obviously, the top hose and the rad were hot, but the bottom one was kinda warm. I looked for answers online but I can't seem to find anything like what I'm dealing with. the water pump seems to be working fine, I'm not sure how much flow is supposed to be coming through the Small hose at the top of the reservoir, But I checked it and it has a steady stream coming out of it. I've worked all the air out of the lines as well. The car isn't overheating and doesn't really pass the 90 mark, fans almost never come on but the small one kicks into low when I turn the AC on. which as far as I'm aware is what's supposed to happen.
The car feels like its running hot, checked everything I can think of. rad is hot on the top half and cools at the bottom, coolant has a steady flow back to the reservoir. no actual overheat warnings, I'm just wondering if these cars run hot normally or if I should be concerned.
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I am currently putting the interior of my car back together after a water issue force me to remove everything and have just put the carpet in. While stopping for the night, I noticed that all the overhead lighting doesn't work, the key fob can't lock the car, I can't open the trunk via the button on the door and even if I close all my doors, the car door open light stays on. However, the dash, vents, radio, gauges and headlights work, the car starts, the headlights and tail lights work, and the gas door button works. The ONLY thing I did was remove a #53 block relay that was wired into the rear fogs, since the way the fogs were wired up, they weren't working.
So I removed the relay and wired the fogs directly to the headlight switch. The wiring of the relay was, one wire going to the #9 pin on the headlight switch, one wire going to the 12V source and the last one going to a ground, nothing else. I didn't touch any other wiring or pull any wiring out. What my car is doing now? I was hoping to have it together to go to MIVE's chilifest tomorrow, but this electrical issue makes me uneasy about driving my car over an hour from home without a trusty tow vehicle to rescue me if it goes south.
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Bought a 04 GLI had the bad engine, had the engine installed sat at the shop for nearly a year. Towed car to my house to finish it and now I am running into their lack of knowledge and fixing their crap. Now the current issue...On the thermostat housing, a nipple that comes off the side has nothing connected and leaking coolant.
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so my check engine light came on recently and i took my car to a local shop to get it checked out and they told me one of my o2 sensors might be bad and that i should replace it. but because the catalytic converter that i have installed is an aftermarket one(installed before i bought the car used), they told me they were unable to remove the sensor attached because it was welded(?) on or something to that effect and they didnt have the tools to fix it.
so i did some research and found a better shop that deals with catalytic converters and exhaust systems and im thinking of taking my car there to see what they can do BUT, i was just researching online and ive found other posts saying that it may not even be a bad o2 sensor, it could be a different problem but the its just the bad o2 sensor code that comes up and now i dont know what to do.
just wanted to see what everyones opinion is on this subject or if they have gone through this before!
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Got a code for knock sensor bank one however this is the wiring going to it. Could it be throwing the code simply because the wire is cut or do i need a new sensor maybe too?
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I install sports MFA cluster on my GTi 1.8t. Now I need to install out temp sensor.I know it's mounted somewhere on the driver side behind air duct.I just need the picture to see how exactly this sensor is mounted. My new (used) euro bora sports cluster. I temporally install the sensor.
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I have an 04 GLI and keeps throwing a code for the 02 sensor, and after putting the car on the lift, and disconnecting the 02 sensor harness, a fine oil leaks out at the end of the connector and smells and looks like power steering fluid.
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I have been having problems with my car for a few weeks now and someone told me my car could be jumping time. if it is jumping time wouldnt it still be jumping when i remove the maf sensor?
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just found my cranksensor was dead.. on the highway today.. sooo!.. can som1 tell me where is that sensor exactly so i can change it today.
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Where it's located i heard passenger side behind front bumper. i just looked for about 30 min can't locate it. Reason being is when i check the outdoor temp i get ---F so either it fell off or it's bad lol if someone can post a quick pic ....
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So I have a bad map sensor and lately my turbos been going in and out of limp mode. I recently just replaced with a new n75 valve and it solved the problem for about a week and now it's acting up again. Its not a constant problem it occurs usually every 20 starts. Could the map sensor be the reason why my car is going into limp mode?
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