GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Rear Wiper Malfunction - Does Not Squirt Right?
Mar 5, 2009
I've been having trouble with my rear wiper since forever. Every time i try to use the washer fluid for the rear, it doesn't squirt right and fills up the motorized lock for the trunk and malfunctions the lock for a day or 2 until it drys. I had this same problem with my old 1.8t gti, just in that case i had to have the whole lock replaced due to the damage from the washer fluid (luckily the dealer payed for it).
I was thinking maybe swapping it out for the polo rear wiper on ecs tuning.
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Most of the time I take a corner I hear this somewhat knocking sound I believe its the back wiper but I'm not sure. Any easy fixes, besides the obvious replacing it.
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For the past few weeks, I've been struggling to find out why my windscreen keeps getting a light oily film after using the washer fluid (RAIN-X de-icer, which I've used for years). I replaced the wiper blades this past spring with an OEM/dealer set (worked perfectly), but recently noticed a streak from the right wiper that basically draws a vertical line right in front of my (driver's) line of sight. That is, when the right wiper comes all the way left before returning, it's that position of the blade that leaves an oily streak behind. Very annoying.
I first thought it was just road/winter dirt, but then went to a gas station, and touched the screen. It was oily. Further to that, it had an oily build-up on the blades (wiping them off with paper towel got all this black gunk off). I also noticed that the run-off on the lower part of the windscreen was oily too.
On top of that, the wiper arms had an oily film on them, which I'm wondering if it is a result of something from the wiper fluid, the resevoir, a pump issue, etc.
I do not see any leaks of the washer fluid on the ground. Is there some way that the washer fluid is getting contaminated with a light grade oil that is then being dispersed on my windscreen?? This is really weird, but is also very frustrating, especially when the weather in winter requires increased usage of the fluid.
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So the motor has a new oil pump and pickup and was all cleaned out. Sludge is not the issue here. I'm running the royal purple filter ( the equivalent of mann 950/4) and royal purple 5w30. My heart dropped after the light came on on the first drive. I pulled out over and checked the oil and for leaks and... full with no leak. So I checked the temp and proceeded to drive home. I don't have an oil pressure gauge but I'm getting the bottom of the fill cap with oil so I know it's making it all the way to the top of the motor, and the motor is not loud or sounding starved.
Basically, I wanted a second opinion that it is most likely oil pressure sensor malfunction. Garrett 60 trim, feed and return lines are brand new and sufficient diameter.
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Well, driving down the road just like any other day. I go from 1st to 2nd gear. It feels like I missed a shift, no big deal decide to put it in 3rd. Missed 3rd gear...... weird, no big deal through it in 4th and was on my way. Got to a red light, no 1st or 2nd gear. Where 1st and 2nd gear are, it feels like there is nothing there when i tried to shift into gear. If I go into 3rd gear its now 1st gear, 4th gear is 2nd gear.Had a mechanic look at my car, and the linkage and clutch are fine. He feels that something minor broke inside the transmission.
A) What do you think might be broken?
B) How could this happen?
Driving my car like a baby, I am never hard on my clutch. No pre-warning, no bad sounds, and I have never had an issue with my transmission before. I am hoping I do not have to pull my transmission out but it looks like I may not have a choice...
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I have a 377 gti 2002 and just the other day i had some hesitation on take off. it sounded like the engine was cutting the fuel, at the time i had an o2 sensor code so i replaced the o2 and got new spark plugs while i was at it. it was still hesitating and cutting out so i figured it might be the maf because ive already replaced it once, i cleaned it and still doing the same things. i called my local vw/audi shop (audub) and he said it might be the pcv valve. i checked to see if there was air sucking in through the oil dip stick and the oil cap. its running just fine at idle and it seems that in first and second gear that its hesitating at 1000-2000 rpm and the higher gears are fine. could a leak cause this or is the pcv system bad?
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So basically a couple months ago I picked up a 03 20th and GTI, I love the thing to pieces, recently I've got into drive it and I can watch my temp gauge steadily climb to 90 and stop. (before I go any further, I haven't gotten any overheat warnings or anything like that, I've just noticed my car is really hot all the time and the temp gauge goes to 90 within a minute or so of driving but doesn't go over). heat works fine, I've gone in the engine and tested a few things, tested the fans by jumping the connections, my large fan is dead but the small works fine. to my understanding, the large fan isn't used much unless it's really hot anyway. so I removed it and continued trying to find my problem, I felt the rad after letting the car run for a bit, the top half was hot but the bottom half was cool, took the hoses off and flushed my rad thinking maybe something was clogging it, water ran through fine, so I put it back together, put new coolant and tried again. same thing. so I took it for a rip and came back, obviously, the top hose and the rad were hot, but the bottom one was kinda warm. I looked for answers online but I can't seem to find anything like what I'm dealing with. the water pump seems to be working fine, I'm not sure how much flow is supposed to be coming through the Small hose at the top of the reservoir, But I checked it and it has a steady stream coming out of it. I've worked all the air out of the lines as well. The car isn't overheating and doesn't really pass the 90 mark, fans almost never come on but the small one kicks into low when I turn the AC on. which as far as I'm aware is what's supposed to happen.
The car feels like its running hot, checked everything I can think of. rad is hot on the top half and cools at the bottom, coolant has a steady flow back to the reservoir. no actual overheat warnings, I'm just wondering if these cars run hot normally or if I should be concerned.
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I am currently putting the interior of my car back together after a water issue force me to remove everything and have just put the carpet in. While stopping for the night, I noticed that all the overhead lighting doesn't work, the key fob can't lock the car, I can't open the trunk via the button on the door and even if I close all my doors, the car door open light stays on. However, the dash, vents, radio, gauges and headlights work, the car starts, the headlights and tail lights work, and the gas door button works. The ONLY thing I did was remove a #53 block relay that was wired into the rear fogs, since the way the fogs were wired up, they weren't working.
So I removed the relay and wired the fogs directly to the headlight switch. The wiring of the relay was, one wire going to the #9 pin on the headlight switch, one wire going to the 12V source and the last one going to a ground, nothing else. I didn't touch any other wiring or pull any wiring out. What my car is doing now? I was hoping to have it together to go to MIVE's chilifest tomorrow, but this electrical issue makes me uneasy about driving my car over an hour from home without a trusty tow vehicle to rescue me if it goes south.
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The car is a 2005.5 GLI (75k mi) w/ EvoTech Stg1 software, GHL stack intake, and an Iridium billet diverter valve.
Well today I was driving and the Malfunction Indicator Light on the dash came on and started blinking. When I stepped on the accelerator, the car felt like it had 1/4 the power and began shaking. The car idles kind of weakly, and feels like it has no power when you step on the gas. Also, when you step on the gas the car will shake. The strength of the shaking depends on how hard I press on the throttle, more throttle = more shaking. There is no shaking when it idles or when I have it cruising, only when accelerating.
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Bought a 04 GLI had the bad engine, had the engine installed sat at the shop for nearly a year. Towed car to my house to finish it and now I am running into their lack of knowledge and fixing their crap. Now the current issue...On the thermostat housing, a nipple that comes off the side has nothing connected and leaking coolant.
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I have a 20th ae, and I figured how to lower the fronts a bit...but the backs, I tried searching but didn't find much......
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I just put on some brand new Bilstein shocks/struts with new mounts and some Neuspeed springs. It seems like the rear sits lower than the front. Maybe some polo bushings to bring the front down a bit? No stereo stuff of anything in the trunk..
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I have an issue with my rear seats. The lever doesn't even feel like its attached to the inner latch assembly to pop. Have any of you had this issue and found a way to pop them?
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I have KW type ST coils for my 2004.5 gli and I cannot adjust them to the height I want, it said the rear coils were good for around a 2.5 inch drop and it dropped it a little less than an inch when they were all the way released.
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My rear control arm bushings are cracking. I was wondering if this is a serious problem and what negative effects it will have if I leave them alone.
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I tried searching around, but nothing. the rear door on the passenger side sticks out a little, im wondering if there is an adjustment i can do to fix this.. its out less than a quarter inch. someone said adjust the striker, but i cant seem to find it.
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Pulling into work today and backing into my parking spot, a fellow employee noticed something odd about my front wheels, so he hopped in my car so I could see the issue.
From a dead stop accelerating forward, the front wheels shift a few inches to the rear, and same thing when backing up from a dead stop they shift to the front. Both sides are doing this evenly. I haven't thrown it on the lift yet but I was thinking a possibly bad dogbone mount. The car has 133K on it and the bone has never been touched.
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If you don't have a high flow cat on, will it throw ur check engine light on, saying its the rear 02 sensor....
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20th Anniversary sat for 2 months and battery was flat when I went to start it today. I jumped it and got it running. However, when I went to close the hatch it will not stay latched. The latch on the hatch is hitting the striker on the lip of the trunk, but it just won't stay shut. Is any part of the latching mechanism electronically or vacuum operated?
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Is this possible? I recently installed raceland ultimos and I get this weird muffled noise from the top of the rear suspension. Took it all apart, cut the bump stops shorter, and lubed the strut mounts. Sound went away for about 10 mins of driving, went for another drive and the sound was back. The next day the weather was warmer and the noise was gone. Should I just get new strut mounts?
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My rear brakes on my 20th are warped and are squeaking like crazy when i come to a stop. I've never had to look at brakes so I don't know what to look for. What are some good replacement rotors /pads for the rear. I just use the car for daily driving nothing crazy.....
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