So I was driving on the HWY in 6th gear cruising at about 60, and I go to speed up and when my RPMS hit about 3k or over it feels like I am pressing in the clutch, like my RPMS are going up but I am hardly gaining any speed.
View 24 RepliesHaving issues with turning over but no start, sometimes takes up to five turns to start up, and hesitation on hwy in 6th gear. Fuel problem im pretty sure.
View 1 RepliesMiddle of May, I went to Boston. On the way there, I started to notice a slight whirring noise that was only present when I gently feathered the gas to maintain highway speed. If I were to apply any more throttle, the noise would go away, and if I were to pull my foot away and allow engine braking, it would also disappear.
So I did my best to finish the trip to and from Boston adjusting my driving to avoid the noise. Once I came home, I researched and thought the noise might have been my wheel bearings (I had just replaced lower control arms, lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods prior to leaving for Boston). I also had a shop install my upper strut mount bearings and bushings simultaneously with the wheel bearings.
Since then, the problem still continues. It has grown louder, but still occurs under the same situations. I've focused more on it and here are the conditions under which it occurs:
1. Car must be warmed up. Starting it up cold and allowing SAI to run then driving, car is fine, no sounds. Usually takes 20-25 mins of driving to get it to start making noise.
2. Car still only makes the noise when the gas is being feathered (ie barely pressing it enough to give it any sort of throttle. It does also make the noise between shifts when reengaging the gear and applying gas, as the throttle pedal passes the point of throttle off to throttle on.
3. I'm hearing more noise now during engine braking than I had been previously. Could be related?
I have a 2003 20th anniversary edition GTI. Yesterday I noticed my car started shaking when I was driving on the highway. The only thing I can think of that I did was run into a snow bank during the snowstorm. What is causing my car to shake?
View 2 RepliesIf the car is moving, the transmission feels like it doesn't want to let you shift into first (even with the clutch all the way in) until you've slowed down considerably. it grinds if the clutch is all the way in and i try to put it into 1st at about 30 mph, for example.
I always thought that it was probably a safety feature so you don't try to get into such a steep gear at that speed. i guess I'm just trying to make sure of that, because I've never researched it before. What I'm starting to notice now (or maybe its in my head) is that the trans is being real particular about me having the clutch pushed in all the way _to the floor_, something that it something that it tends to give me a bit more slack with the other gears.
For example shifting 2nd to 3rd, i can usually have the clutch pedal about an inch off the floor and it will still shift. is this a sign of clutch wear? it's got over 100K miles on it of mostly granny shifting.
My 20th Ann. GTI randomly would not go into first or second (they move into place but are just limp there and not catching into the gear) I was told for replacement of new 6-speed transmission and they did not offer any alternatives beside replacing it completely.
I know there is a thread talking about this but I read about the shift fork, or a piece of the shift fork that breaks and this problem fits my exact description. Not much info on what I can do, or at least not specified. What is any cost effective way to get my gears back without completely replacing the transmission? Is there anything I can do to just replace a broken part or are there any alternatives?
So after replacing my shift forks in my 20th, installing a new clutchmasters fx100 clutch kit with a LWFW I've become a victim of the typical clutch disengagement issue.
In a nut shell car doesn't go into gear while the car is running. System is fully bled with no leaks and a brand new slave installed supplied by CM.
My understanding is the early FML code o2ms in the 20ths can not make use of the NLS shim kit and a stainless line is not a 100% fix.
Who's solved their disengagement issues and how?
When driving in 3rd gear I can hear this quiet yet distinct high pitch whistling sound. It almost sounds kind of digital. You can hear it inthe other gears but just not as well and I know it's not the turbo or anything. What it may be and if it's normal?
View 10 RepliesWhen driving my car, my oem shifter makes a clicking noise going into gear. is there a way to get it to stop, other than getting a short throw?
Looking for 2004 gli all weather floor mats? or ones that would fit?
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I was driving the other day and accelerated in 5th and the car stuttered before finally going- I got the flashing CEL. I figured that the car was misfiring and that a coilpack change was the culprit. All my coilpacks are fine and the sparkplugs look good as well. CEL hasn't come back, but the car just feels like it doesn't want to go right away when if i give it some gas when I'm going about 55-65 MPH.
Other guesses would be there is a fuel cut somewhere and that may be causing it?
So over the past couple months when driving on the highway I would notice that sometimes my car would lose all power and slowly coast to a stop, but then the power comes back on and I'm off after a few seconds. It happened again today and I notice when I do hit the gas when it decides not to accelerate my boost gauge shows that there is vacuum building up in the engine. It just doesn't make sense to me. Would my car be getting thrown into a limp mode? Or is it something to do with fueling?
View 4 Replies50k Miles on my clutch. Was driving a couple weeks ago on the highway and clutch stuck to the floor. At first I thought it was my Slave cylinder. Got the trans out this weekend to find the mess (below) inside my bell housing. Obviously need a new clutch now and will still replace the slave while I am in there.
Cars setup is around 375ish whp. I know I could spend 1300 bucks and call it a day for a clutch master or south bend but was seeing if there is a cheaper alternative.
Also If I were to buy an OEM clutch or an upgraded one that was not rated for up to 400~whp would it drive and pull the same as a fully upgraded one just not last as long?
6 Speed ...
So driving on the highway my car died. It would crank but not start. Got it towed. This is what I have done to troubleshoot.
1. Swap ECUs. The car should start for a second and shut off because the car doesnt match with the ECU. Still just crank and no start.
2. Fuel pump still primes when I open the door. I also hear a weird air leaking noise when I reconnect the battery, but I think it comes from the fuel pressure regulator (which I think is normal).
3. Checked for current at the ecu wires, wasn't sure what to look for but it was getting numbers.
4. Battery had 12.1 volts running through it (Haynes said 12.5 but is that really much of a difference?
5. Checked spark plugs for spark. Pretty sure we did it right, but there was still no spark. We tried multiple times.
6. Scan car, get code P01314 twice (ECM error).
7. Try to clear codes, says Comm error.
Why am I not getting spark? and why is the ECU error occurring, because we tested with a new ecu, and there was still no start, not even for a second like there should be.
About three nights ago I had a complete power loss on the highway and the car began to bog down alot under throttle (and surge at points as well although with no boost). It also idled very rough/erratically. When I unplugged the MAF it cleared up right away; Idle was smooth and it ran without hiccup but in safe/limp mode so very tame (again, without boost really, gauge shows it stays in Vacuum and never passes "0" or goes into boost).
I scanned it this evening and got 2 misfire codes and a MAF code, along with a code related to traction control which I noticed had activated as a result of this and could not be turned on (by activated, I mean the light came on, disengaging T/C). These things make me think it is MAF related, especially because I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I do not think that is what it could be in relation to the misfire codes (which I think may be old and needed to be cleared).
Fast forward to last night: I can pretty confidently say my MAF is not the problem and I think I saved an unnecessary expenditure. I was able to meet a friend with a 337 as well and his MAF did not change my car at all and my MAF ran fine in his car so I think my problems are something else. Although with the MAF plugged in my car runs very poor and unplugged it clears up and just runs "limp" (no boost and slow but stable) from what I tested this evening the MAF unit seems to not be the issue.
I think there must be a vacuum leak of some sort between the MAF and the engine which allows more air in than the MAF signals when plugged in which causes the issue. Also, I know a common thing to think is "coilpacks" but I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I would imagine that would eliminate those from being the failure they tend to normally be. Agreed ??
I got my 2005 jetta gli used with about 41000 mi on it. Ever since i've had it, when i accelerate on the highway at 50 mph or faster, the car almost feels bouncy throughout, what that is.
View 8 RepliesMy 2007 Lexus ES350 is sometimes hesitant in the morning when gaining speed or may be warming up. Did not see this problem coming back from work. What to do next? There was some oily fluid leaking recently, is the transmission fluid supposed to be reddish?
View 5 RepliesI've read several posts that suggest the EV mode is mostly useless. I disagree. I've noticed that it's useful in gaining speed faster without the ICE, when taking off from a stop. Especially if I'm in traffic and I don't want to annoy drivers behind me.
I've noticed that conditions have to be met in order to do this, such as engine warmed up etc. but I find it very useful, and I am seeing improved MPG when doing this. I've had my 2013 PRius v Two for almost a month now.
Happened first yesterday. The rpm and speed gauges get stuck at the 10 o'clock position. Seems all the lights come on. I can accelerate for a bit but the car just putts and then turns off. After that i try to start the car and nothing. If i take the ground of the battery for 10 min (ecu reset?) the car starts right up but any sooner and it wont start. I have APR stage 1 flash, cat back exhaust, drop in filter, forge hybrid valve, and Boost gauge.
View 4 RepliesTitle pretty much states it. A while back both my ABS and my ESP light would come on after I reached a speed of 18mph. After some research here I figured it was just a dirty sensor. So I cleaned the front ones and still haven't got around to the rear, but I told my mechanic to scan it. He says I need a new ABS pump which I am hoping, he is wrong. Printout says...
01276-ABS Hydraulic Pump(V64)
008-Implausible Signal - Intermittent
008-Implausible Signal - Intermittent
So I am hoping it is just dirty or unplugged and not the ABS pump.
VERY interested in the 2.0T but when I test drove it this weekend, the transmission seemed to lurch when I was gradually gaining speed from a stop. I wasn't trying to press the accelerator hard. Just driving it like I would my car and gradually gain speed while driving economically. The 2.4 seemed to do this less, but it also did it.
For those who own 2.0Ts, could y'all tell me if this is normal? I plan on test driving other 2.0T in the event the one I drove was an exception, but just curious.
I was driving down the highway one morning, when the spare tire from a small truck in front of me falls off on the highway. I'm probably going between 40-50 mph, and I can't change lanes, so I hold my breath as I drive over it. I thought I had cleared it when I heard the tire hit my 2007 Kia Sportage somewhere around the backseat area. Kia continues to run fine, no fluids leaking, engine running normal, transmission running normal, etc. Our car has never been quiet on the inside, but we noticed that the road noise started to get louder and louder. We knew that it was getting time to replace our tires, so we figured that is why it was getting louder. I had the tires changed, but the noise was still there. And it gets louder.
But everything continues to run normally, and my mileage is not affected. But it gets louder. And louder. I thought maybe it cracked the muffler, but you don't hear noise on the outside, just the inside. I just passed my state emissions check, so that is ok. I haven't taken it to a mechanic because there hasn't seemed to be any other problem, other than it's just loud. The noise seems to build up as I am gaining speed, gets its loudest about 50 mph or so, and at speeds higher than that it goes down slightly. It doesn't coincide with the transmission shifting, and it shifts at the same RPMs it always has, no issues there. The noise seems to be coming from the back of the car.