Geo - Metro :: 1996 - Loose Head Bolts Causing Overheating
Jun 1, 2012
Geo Metro loose head bolts... I have a 96 Metro, and for some reason the head bolts loosen by themselves, leading to over heating and planing head ... well you know.I had a farm for 20 years and took care of all equipment myself, have rebuilt numerous motors, but this geo is the first I have seen where the bolts loosen. This is the third time. I know they are tightened right , because I have the tools and experience, but not with this. Other than jb weld in the bolt holes.
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Got a rebuilt head for my metro from a very reputable ebay seller/shop, and it smokes pretty badly after installation. I checked my pcv valve and it has vacuum at idle, and the hose is not plugged. Performed a compression check- 180 on all cylinders- okay for my car. Called the shop to see if maybe they forgot to install the valve seals, and they insisted that there is no way they would forget that.
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I have a 97 GEO Metro LSI (1.3 liter 4 cyl.) A/T w/ AC. Recently serviced the Transmission (i.e. dropped the pan, replaced filter etc..) and put new fluid in. Shortly after this, the battery light came on and the car began overheating. The vehicle is losing zero coolant/water. Dunno if the transmission service is related but mentioned it since it was so close in time to the current problem. Here is what I've done since.
~Replaced Thermostat (no result)
~Noticed that the Electric Fan Motor in front of AC is not working
~Replaced Fan Motor Relay (no result)
~Direct wired the Electric Fan Motor (AC) to battery.. IT Worked!!! and the car does not overheat HOWEVER, now the batter drains quickly and the AC blower is running 50% at full speed. As soon as I disconnect my direct wire.. the AC blows full on again but naturally the Electric Fan does not work
How to approach this problem?????
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I am missing my manual need to know the torque value on the head bolts 1999 ranger 3.0 flex.....
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I have a 1996 Geo Metro LSI 1.3L, automatic trans.
ISSUE #1
The airbag light will not go off. I replaced the air bag control module under the shifter console and the front impact sensor near the hood latch. No effect. What is my next step? I was thinking of replacing the steering column sensor/module.
ISSUE #2
Note: I also replace the ECU to no avail. I did this because the check engine light keeps coming on. I clear the code, but "low emission threshhold) code keep returing. Does this mean my catalytic converter is gone, or could it be the O2 sensors?
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One thing I cant clear is how to fix the annoying door clicking. The one bolt behind plastic cover on body side isn't a torx 40 its a bolt/philips and its tight. My 2 bolts on door side dont seem to be getting tight. The doors still clik seems to be in join in middle of door arm.
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Finally took the Wolf in to see about an engine rattle thats been getting worse. The culprit - loose engine mount bolts! Dealer decided to order new bolts, not just tighten the old ones. Also mentioned a recall for the transmission software. Odd that the "recall" wasn't listed on-line for my VIN. It must be the one that smooths the tranny a bit, it is a bit jumpy at low speed.
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So i folded down my seats today to try and fit a box in and i noticed that the two lower unibrace bolts were unscrewed about half way. When i put it in, those bolts were pretty tight. There is a little movement if i push down hard on the bar. Those dam nutserts dont seem to be a good long term option. I mean if one of them was loose then , but both are loose, and the tops are perfect. Im guessing because maybe the bottoms are taking most of the pressure.
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My 96 Metro for some reason is popping the 15 amp ignition fuse randomly. First time it happened I disconnected the alternator and replaced the fuse and it got me home. Pulled the alternator and had it tested and it tested fine. Put it back in and everything worked for about a month. It popped the fuse again while driving down the road. I disconnected the alternator again but this time the fuse still blew. I disconnected the coil replaced the fuse turned on the key and the fuse did not pop. I reconnected everything and it worked fine. Hasn't repeated itself in a week. I think there is a short somewhere. Just can't find it.
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I have a 1996 geo metro that I have been working on for the last couple days. The problem that I have been running into is the ignition fuse keeps blowing the instant that the key is turned.
This kills the power to the fuel pump as well as the power to the ECM. (killing all the idiot lights). The engine still cranks over and all the accessories still work.
I have tried disconnecting the fuel pump wires as well as the ECM and the ignition module to try and narrow down the problem but the fuse still blows about 2 seconds after I turn the key.
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2001 Explorer sport trac. I had a shop install new front pads because I couldn't brake the caliper bolts loose. I noticed they didn't use any grease on the pads from what I can see, and there has been a quiet rubbing/squeaking sound coming from the wheels (mainly when pressing the brakes). I assume it's the brake pads/caliper parts that still need to be greased. I have the right kind of grease and I'm about to do it, but what parts of the pads/caliper assembly need to be greased?
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As some may remember 11-27-12 my van was down due to a head Gasket seal causing overheating. My B.S. Mechanic had given up on my car and after getting frustrated I decided to get another car but I wasn't giving up on my Venture.
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I have a problem with exhaust fumes in my 2003 Silverado truck. Initially, 3 head bolts on the manifold were found to be popped off. After replacing the bolts, the exhaust fumes in the cab still existed. The truck has been evaluated by a Cherolet dealership and 2 independent garages who found no system exhaust leaks. Obviously, I am very frustrated and not sure what to do next or where to go.
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic with 140k miles. It has a leaking head gasket which is causing the engine to overheat when driving slower without airflow to cool the engine.
I would love to drive the car to 200k+ miles but if this is the first of many pricey fixes I want to cut my losses.
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The problem is my new-to-me 97 Ford F150 5.4L SOHC engine, auto transmission, is overheating after driving it for a short while. Seems to be fine at idle. I have read previous posts with the exact same issue, but the consistency seems to be all over the map from burping the system, head gasket, thermostat, and possibly a plugged radiator.
Backstory:200,000+ miles.
Truck sat for 6 months after previous owner broke the shift cable.
Truck was in a front end collision. Frame looks bent underneath the engine.
Previous owner had overheating problem. He said he changed the heater core. Looks like brand new coolant in the system so story probably checks out. Desperately needs an oil change. Very black oil.
Previous owner thought the system needed a burping. So I'm largely assuming the problem started after the heater core change, or he misdiagnosed an overheating problem and thought the heater core could cause it. I have found a radiator cap and thermostat in the truck which seems to indicate he tried many things to fix the overheating and was unsuccessful. Engine looks pretty clean for the miles.
Symptoms/Backyard Tests :
Blows cold air with heat on highest level and on defrost.
Blender door fuse intact.
Doesn't overheat at idle.
Ran the truck for 15 mins with the coolant bottle fill cap off on level ground to try to burp it after draining some coolant and checking the thermostat orientation. Coolant level increased in the bottle. Large air bubbles came out. (Another session before this one, I ran it for 30 minutes with no coolant cap, and eventually coolant overflowed the fill bottle. Normal or no?)
Seems to overheat after the thermostat opens. After doing the 15 minute warm up/burp, I took it for a test drive. I drove it about 20 blocks with the temperature gauge on the dash reading the same as the warmed-up idle temperature. Got to the 20th block and the gauge immediately spiked to overheat with the oil pressure dash light coming on. I could be mistaken as the oil pressure light almost looks exactly like the overheat dash light. But I'm pretty sure the temperature icon was on the right side of the oil can icon and not the left.
After the above drive: Upper rad hose too hot to touch.
After the above drive: Lower rad hose medium warm. Could hold on to it if I felt like it.
After the above drive: Upper part of rad pretty hot. Not Insta-burn but hot. Tempature decreases to warm to cool as you go lower down the rad.
After the above drive: Both heater core hoses going to the cab luke warm.
Coolant looks brand new.
Radiator looks slightly bowed. Probably from the accident? Otherwise looks clean and minimal bent fins.
Drained some coolant and pulled the upper rad hose to see if the thermostat was upside down. Looks installed correctly.
No signs of weep hole leaks from the water pump.
Fan seems solid. Has maybe 1-2mm of play in the bearings.
Something that looked like steam from the muffler at startup, that disappeared after getting closer to a normal range warm engine.
I have driven crap cars for many years and I've never seen a plugged radiator which makes me skeptical of it being that. All the radiators I have changed were because they were eventually leaking from cracks in the radiator.
I would also be interested in doing an informal poll if you have read this far and have had this era of F150 that overheated. Have you ever repaired the head gasket? And/or have you ever changed the radiator?
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Ive been having problems with my o2 sensor behind the left cat coming loose and causing a horrible rattle. Ive tightened the hell out of it a few times and it lasted around 4k miles each. recently i tightened it again and it comes loose within like 20 miles. I was gonna put lock tight on it but with the wiring going into the sensor i cant back it all the way out. I just said screw it and put some JB weld metal putty on it to hold and it lasted like 2 days and now its rattling again. I guess next step is find out how to take apart the sensor so i can un thread and lock tight it....electrical stuff scares me though.
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The belly pan on my AUDI A4 is loose and causing a clattering, rattling noise. I looked under the car and it looks like all of the screws are missing..... Can I fix this myself?
I saw that a lot of places online sell the screws but pricing was a bit confusing and I wanted to make sure it's something I can fix myself.
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Are we supposed to put anti sieze on the turbo to pedestal bolts. They were really hard to break loose when I pulled it Cheater bar tight. 18 ft. lbs sound right ?
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I have a 2000 f150 xlt 4x4 with a 6" suspension lift. Recently Ive had some front end noise, so after swapping out a lower ball joint and the sway bar links, i still have the pop. It only happens when at a stop or slowly moving and i turn to the right and accelerate. It sounds like its coming from the front drivers side. I have wiggled everything in the front end and everything is very tight. The only loose things i can find are:
1) Bottoms of shocks can be wiggled back and forth, both sides do this.
2) driveshaft leading to the front end has a lot of play, but I don't believe that's relevant since its not used when I am in 2wd.
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I need to replace both the struts and the control arm but I don't have a socket to fit, what is the correct size socket I need ....
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Recently bought a 2001. In the process of reading about this engine I discovered there is a some what regular breakdown of head gaskets causing water to leak into cylinders and oil pan, all of which is serious.
Given the vehicle is 12 years old and has 89K miles it appears it is in the age and range of where this leakage can occur. Any knowledgeable engine rebuilders that are familiar with this issue on the 4.2 have any comments???
1. Can this issue be avoided by replacing head gaskets now rather than waiting for future failure???
2. Are there new and improved head gaskets for this motor???
3. Does the problem occur on both heads gaskets?
4. Is that all that needs to be done or are there other seals that need replacement???
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