Chevrolet - Silverado1500 :: 2003 - Exhaust Fumes Malfunction - 3 Head Bolts On The Manifold Popped Off
Feb 18, 2012
I have a problem with exhaust fumes in my 2003 Silverado truck. Initially, 3 head bolts on the manifold were found to be popped off. After replacing the bolts, the exhaust fumes in the cab still existed. The truck has been evaluated by a Cherolet dealership and 2 independent garages who found no system exhaust leaks. Obviously, I am very frustrated and not sure what to do next or where to go.
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My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
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Just bought a 03, the seller showed me a exhaust leak. I found a bolt broken off, flush with the head. Looked at the passenger side when I got home, that side leaks too, and found one broken off bolt there too. Question, are these easy to do? As in, I have extracted broken bolts before, but they where on my V10 and I could just weld nuts to them and they came right out.
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I have a 97 f350 crew cab xl stock everything. 351 windsor in it I do believe. as of right now He is broken down pulled apart in my garage. Due to a much requested headgasket replacement. In any event long story short I got him all apart to discover that there was someone in it before me & had broken the infamous exhaust manifold bolts (5) and two of the lower intake bolts, (of course I've tried the correct route in removing these broken bolts/studs but again the year of the truck (1997) & its bone stock no way their moving...
So of course I tried the next best thing (on a budget) which is to drill them out, but I went to far into the exhaust manifold bolt holes, And now I believe that I've ruined the heads is this so? If so who knows where i can get a decent set of bolt on heads ready to go. yes this is my daily driver & since He's been down I've been going deeper in dept.
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I have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
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Well i had an exhaust leak on this F250 and so I started torquing the bolts on the manifold to the head. (45 ft.lbs) A couple were very loose so I was thinking "Great, this may fix my problem!"
My first mistake was probably the Harbor Freight Tools torque wrench.
I am on the driver side, second from the rear and then bang! I see a gaping hole where the bolt used to be. Bolt on the floor. I cant see up in the hole to the head, I think it broke flush with the head.
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I can't get my exhaust manifold bolts off. They are in bad shape. The 10mm is too loose and 3/8 just rounds. I have had the torches on them too! Can the bolts be cut off with a torch?? Haven't broken any. Can't get the bolt heads to move. It's an 04, original manifolds. I am working the driver's side. I can't figure this one out. How to get this manifold off?
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Truck has 107 thousand miles; had to take it in for an manifold exhaust leak. Mechanic said bolts are so rusted they break.
1) was there ever a ALERT from ford about these bolt's?
2) Thought i read ford had stainless bolts for this problem...
I've had F150's only since the mid 70's and this 04 has cost me more in repairs than ANY previous F150..
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Bolts breaking on the exhaust manifold. If so why isn't ford doing a recall on this problem I have a F350 V10 90K miles and 3 on the top drivers side are missing not sure on the passenger side. Is this a problem with all the ford engines I have never had this problem with any other truck or car I have owned.
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I've got the dreaded broken exhaust manifold studs on my 2004 F250 V10. I don't drive it much (just 50,000 miles in 10 years) and confess I've ignored the hissing for quite a while. Is there really a permanent fix for these broken studs? Or should I expect to be replacing broken studs every 2 or 3 years?
If there is a permanent fix what is it? Special studs? Special manifold? I want to keep this truck a long time and don't want to be replacing these studs every few years.
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Our F-450 with 102000 miles lost both turbos also broken exhaust manifold bolts. This truck carries tools fuel tank and sometimes skid loader on trailer. Heard lots of bad things about 6.4 liter motor now first hand experience. Asked dealer if 6500.00 bill could be reduced since so close to 100000 mile warranty and was told nothing could be done. Can not afford to sell truck now also have two other Ford F-250s newest one 2012. Is there any other approach that could be taken to get some relief from this expense.
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I've been having this problem for a while now. Specs: 2003 Silverado-1500 with 260,000. New wires, plugs, fuel filter. I clean the Throttle-body and Mass-Air-Flow Sensor every two weeks. I use Techron fuel additive @ every fill-up. I have also tried using Seafoam Motor Treatment in the tank and crank-case. It turns-over but won't start. I have to try 3-4 times before it starts. The only time it starts on the FIRST try is when the gas tank is FULL.
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So I had recently developed a leak in the up pipes behind the collector. Big surprise, right?
Well, a 6-point socket was spinning on the collector bolts (probably from rust) so I decided to cut the manifold to up pipe bolts. Got the up pipes off/out. Well after and <acronym title="Manifold Absolute Pressure">MAP</acronym> gas torch, I can't punch ANY of the bolts out.
There is little to no room to get to the bolts. (I have the down pipe removed.) At this point I'll try a few more doses of hot wrench and PB Blaster, but if I have to do the manifolds I'll just pull the engine, since chances are there will be at least one stuck bolt there, too. I really don't want to go that, but eventually I'll need to install my new oil pan anyway.
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This has been a decent truck... lately you drive for 5 miles or so.. it goes to reduced engine power. if you get to side of the road and turn completely off and sit maybe 10 seconds or so, it goes fine again.... I have tried to get a computer reading, but by the time I have gotten it anywhere, the check engine light is off again..
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I am changing the passenfer side exhaust manifold on my '00 150. The bolts all came out fairly easy, sprayed them often in PB over the last 2 days, my problem is the 2nd and 3rd nuts on the bottom are under the motor mount. Do I need to remove that or is there an easier way that I'm missing.
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So I think I have possible manifold leak in my exhaust and its because when the engine is super cold, and I do have a straight pipe, but it sounds like a tractor... until it warms up after few minutes, it goes away.
My exhaust manifolds are rusted to crap and stuff is falling off, paint or whatever there was on them.
Now I've looked at bunch of videos on UT to get a better understanding since everyone says the nuts and studs are hard to remove or snap.
Now my question to anyone who's done this in their garage; I've seen bunch of videos where the stud snaps flush, then he takes a nut, puts it over the hole, holds it up with needle pliers and uses a MIG to start welding it... stud to nut... then puts a wrench and off it goes.
Now, I'm not a pro welder or anything so is it possible to by accident weld the stud, nut into the head and then never ever be able to undo or take either one out?? or is the head or whatever made from different material that won't get welded to the nut or the stud??
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I have a 98 F150 4x4 Super Cab 4.6 auto that has a leaking exhaust manifold. I changed both manifolds about 3 years ago and the passenger side bank is leaking again. I haven't gotten into yet to see if its just the gasket or the manifold itself. My question is does anyone know of a set of headers I can put on the truck that will bolt up to the existing exhaust? If I make the switch to headers I don't want to have to redo the whole exhaust system.
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How many bolts actually holding the intake manifold onto the heads. Are there more inside the plenium when you take the top off or can you remove the unit as one piece to replace the intake manifold gaskets?
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My dad recently asked me to find out what is wrong with his A/C unit on his truck. He has a Chevy Silverado 1500 LS. it's a 2002 model. um.... anyway, he usually blasts his A/C around 3 to 5. the a/c setting goes from 1 thru 5, and off. so i was thinking that since he uses the a/c so much that he's gone and broken something.
In the middle of summer so i suspect the heat has something to do with it. some days the a/c works, sometimes it doesn't. although i've ridden in the truck a few times since the problem appeared, I've noticed that the a/c almost always works when we pull out of the garage or when its cool enough. and never works when we come out of a store or somewhere to the truck that's been left out in the heat in the parking lot.
There's one more thing. i haven't noticed it yet but this comes directly from my dad. he says that sometimes he'll just be driving along and he'll hear a 'clunk' noise and the a/c will start working again. How to fix this problem. I assume this is something very common. and would it be easy for me to fix? i know more about computers than i do cars, and I've already taken apart 1 laptop and fixed 2 others. I feel fairly confident taking part of a car apart.... er, truck in this case.
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I have a 1999 ford f150 4.6 engine and it has an exhaust leak but wondering what is the procedure to remove a broken bolt and the rest of the bolts on the manifold
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I own a e1999 Ford F350 7.3 4x4 with a Garrett GTP38R turbo. I have been having issues with very little power and pulled an CEL of P0221. I know it's for the APS and have been trying to trouble shoot it as a new APS has not fixed the problem. However, while working on that I just noticed an oil leak appear. I tracked it down and can visibly see it leaking out the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold in two places. It is seeping out the top. Is oil supposed to even be running through here like that?
I recently replaced my up pipes with the newer style bellowed ones. While I had the turbo off I replaced all the o-rings top and bottom and did the EBPV delete on the pedestal. I have been having very little power and cannot the truck over 5-10 MPH and stays at low RPM's so I originally thought it was the leaky up pipes. Those were fixed along with fuel pressure checks which came back good. I then pulled the P0221 code finally. While I had the turbo off I inspected it and it did spin freely and had no side to side play in it.
What was unusual to me was there was a small pooling of oil in the turbo when I took it off. I know the CCV goes through here so some oil is normal. Also, when I was diagnosing the up pipe leak I could see a small amount of oil spraying out the blown donut gasket along with the exhaust gases. I don't think that is normal.
Is there an internal seal in the turbo that can go bad causing oil to spill into my exhaust and possibly leak at the exhaust manifold? Or do I have an internal oil leak from somewhere else?
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