This has been a decent truck... lately you drive for 5 miles or so.. it goes to reduced engine power. if you get to side of the road and turn completely off and sit maybe 10 seconds or so, it goes fine again.... I have tried to get a computer reading, but by the time I have gotten it anywhere, the check engine light is off again..
View 5 RepliesFrom time to time, my Tahoe gives me the "Reduced Engine Power" error, and I lose acceleration capabilities and have to pull over. After a min or 2, I can go again, but the check engine light stays on. With no rhyme or reason, the light will be on or off on the next start up. The problem may or may not happen during a short ride or may happen quite often. I have replaced the Accelerator Pedal sensor, so that is not the problem, I'm assuming.
I've been told that it is the Throttle Body that needs to be replaced, but no mechanic can confirm. They just want to replace it and the pedal. I would really like to keep this truck for a couple more years. Other than this problem, the Tahoe has been pretty good to me. Here are the codes that have been read: P1125, 1516, 2120, 2125 ....
I just replaced spark plugs and now it is running rough and reduced engine power light is on. did not mix up wires or coil packs. did one at a time.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2003 Tahoe that I love but is driving me crazy with a "Reduced Engine Power" message. I am driving along and suddenly it dings at me, the message center says "reduced engine power" and I am losing speed. It goes into a "limp mode" in which I cannot accelerate, it cannot pull itself up a hill, and the engine misses badly. I can pull over, shut it off for a couple of minutes and then start it up and run again just fine until it decides to do it again.
There seems to be no rhyme or reason, one day it did it 4 times w/n the first 20 miles, then ran 100 miles w/o doing it at all. I recently took it on a trip that normally takes me 1 1/2 hours, it took 2 1/4 hrs that day because I had to pull over so many times. I was having to stop every 3-4 miles by the time I got there. My usual mechanic has completely given up, told me to trade it. I have had it to another mechanic for over a month now, 3 times he has thought it was fixed, but it wasn't. One time, I didn't even make it the 5 miles to my house before it acted up again.
One other note on this: this past trip I made, I left early in the morning and my lights were flickering high/low. . . this went on for several miles. Finally my lights quit flickering, then I lost engine power, pulled over, shut it off. When I started it back up, the lights started flickering again. The cycle seemed to continue, once the lights would settle, the engine would lose power. I took it to a parts store and had the battery and alternator checked. They said both were fine. (Had never noticed the light thing before, but I can't think of a recent trip after dark.) How I can pass along to my mechanic?
I have a 2003 Chevy 1500HD 6.0L 4x4. I've recently started getting the "Reduced Engine Power" light along with the P1516 Fault code. I've checked all the wires going to the TAC Module, TPS, and MAP, all appear to be in good condition. The Throttle Body is clean and the "flapper moves freely with no sticking. I only have this issue when it is warm outside. Recently we've had fairly code days between 32-50 degree weather but on the few days that it has gotten warmer, I've had the issue. Since it seems to only happen when its warm, I believe it to be a moisture issue, but I'm not sure.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 chevrolet uplander. Yesterday it started giving a message of reduced engine power and the engine light comes on.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 Chevy malibu LT with 120000 miles. And today while I was driving my engine disabled and there was a message of reduced engine power. After letting it sit I turned the key and nothing happens all the lights and things come on but the reduced engine power and engine disabled shows up. The car won't crank up. Earlier that day I had my engine coolant temperature sensor replaced. What is going on or what needs to be done? I am getting so frustrated with this car.
View 3 RepliesI've been having this problem for a while now. Specs: 2003 Silverado-1500 with 260,000. New wires, plugs, fuel filter. I clean the Throttle-body and Mass-Air-Flow Sensor every two weeks. I use Techron fuel additive @ every fill-up. I have also tried using Seafoam Motor Treatment in the tank and crank-case. It turns-over but won't start. I have to try 3-4 times before it starts. The only time it starts on the FIRST try is when the gas tank is FULL.
View 11 RepliesMy 1994 Silverado 1500 has been running rough, chugging, smelling gassy and sometimes quitting while idling. We replaced the plugs and wires. This didn't actually work, but while testing it, it started to overheat. We added water and the water squirts out everywhere from the bottom of the engine. So there are 2 problems...
View 1 RepliesWhen im driving my truck down the road all the power cuts off then comes back on, don't know what it is?
View 2 RepliesI have a problem with exhaust fumes in my 2003 Silverado truck. Initially, 3 head bolts on the manifold were found to be popped off. After replacing the bolts, the exhaust fumes in the cab still existed. The truck has been evaluated by a Cherolet dealership and 2 independent garages who found no system exhaust leaks. Obviously, I am very frustrated and not sure what to do next or where to go.
View 1 RepliesIOur 2003 suburban often gets a "reduced engine power" displayed by the computer and the RPMs drop to below 1,000. The vehicle will not accelerate and will not go above 1,200 RPMs no matter how much gas it is getting. Flooring the gas pedal has absolutely no effect and the truck continues on its merry way at about 20 miles per hour.
I have been told by various amateurs that it is the gas lines or electronics that regulate the gas flow. The reduction in engine power seems to happen randomly, but most often if the vehicle is idling for too long (and I'm sure the 110 degree heat doesn't work). I can get it fixed much quicker if I know what the problem may be.
My truck is an 2003 2500hd with the 6l engine and 89k miles. From time to time I'm getting message "reduced engine power". Usually at the morning after 10-15 minutes after starting. I have to pull over, shut it off, wait few seconds then restart it. The ses light goes off usually by end of the day ( or after few hours ). When scanned by chevy tech showing code P1516 Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance. I have new battery with new main cable. TAC Module was cleaned.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Escalade that I have maintained since day 1. Occasionally when driving the car it will say system disability and reduced engine power, which drops the speed to 20 and I can give all the gas I want it will not go. Happening on and off for 5 months. I can shut it on and off a couple times and it will go back to normal. Have taken it in a couple times to dealer and they have drove it and drove it and it behaves. They believe it is the Throttle body and sensor. But for the price of it, just replace the fuel pump 2 weeks ago, they suggest to see it happening to give me a 100% diagnosis. For now they believe it is that. Should I fix it or wait till it happens and slowly putt into the dealership.
View 4 RepliesMy dad recently asked me to find out what is wrong with his A/C unit on his truck. He has a Chevy Silverado 1500 LS. it's a 2002 model. um.... anyway, he usually blasts his A/C around 3 to 5. the a/c setting goes from 1 thru 5, and off. so i was thinking that since he uses the a/c so much that he's gone and broken something.
In the middle of summer so i suspect the heat has something to do with it. some days the a/c works, sometimes it doesn't. although i've ridden in the truck a few times since the problem appeared, I've noticed that the a/c almost always works when we pull out of the garage or when its cool enough. and never works when we come out of a store or somewhere to the truck that's been left out in the heat in the parking lot.
There's one more thing. i haven't noticed it yet but this comes directly from my dad. he says that sometimes he'll just be driving along and he'll hear a 'clunk' noise and the a/c will start working again. How to fix this problem. I assume this is something very common. and would it be easy for me to fix? i know more about computers than i do cars, and I've already taken apart 1 laptop and fixed 2 others. I feel fairly confident taking part of a car apart.... er, truck in this case.
This morning, I started my truck to go somewhere and less than a minute into my drive, the engine suddenly died. I tried cranking it again to which it started but less than a second later it quit again. That's when I noticed my FMP on my SGII was at 0v. When I got it back into a parking spot, I pulled the FICM and tested the connectors as well as the relays and they all were normal.
I decided I will be pulling the FICM again tomorrow and I will be sending it back to FICM repair.com for them to look at as I got a new one from them about 8 months ago. However if it is in case the wiring harness, where is a good place to look. I don't think it is the wiring harness as it seems to have voltage at the connectors.
Also this may be related but earlier this week, my Scangauge froze and I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it didn't connect to the PCM until I reset the SGII to factory settings. I wonder if this is related?
I have a 95 Silverado 1500 with the 5.7 V8 that cuts out when the pedal is held just above idle. If I am just driving normally as in pulling up to a stop sign and leaving with moderate acceleration it is fine and I don't notice any problems at all. The time I really notice it is when I am backing a trailer up and have to hold the pedal just above idle. It acts like the fuel is just being shut off to all cylinders. When I let off the gas it will sound like it is going to die and then it will come back to idle and idle perfectly. I was told it was probibly the PCV valve and I figured that for a few bucks I didn't have much to loose but that didn't work. I am thinking it has to be a sensor but I may be wrong.
View 2 RepliesI have a vibration in my 1997 Chevy pick up that comes up through the seat. Before this vibration I had steering wheel only vibration and could tell it was the front left wheel. Called my usual, trustworthy shop. I did not talk to the service manager, he was on vacation. The owner’s son took the order and the next day I ended up with two new u-joints. Now I have the steering wheel vibration AND the “through seat” vibration. Service manager returned from vacation and took over. The left front tire finally got balanced, like I asked for initially. That tire was 4 ounces off. ALL tires got balanced. Steering wheel is OKAY, no steering wheel vibration, but vibration through seat is the same. The shop changed the u-joints with GM brand u-joints.....no change. We put new tires on...no change. We put a set of different new tires and a set of wheels off a Tahoe.....no change.
Balanced the drive shaft...........no change. In the midst of all this the rear seal at yoke starting leaking. The shop installed new seal and bearing. The shop did pay for the second set of u-joints, the second set of new tires and used Tahoe (but nice) wheels, the seal and bearing and balancing of the drive shaft. I was politely told that I am now on my own. I can feel this vibration at 20 mph, kind of subtle, but noticeable. At highway speeds the vibration increases, not violent, but very noticeable. Once in a while (very seldom) the vibration on the highway is subtle like it is at 20 mph. Then I will go into a slow, long curve on the highway and that seems to set it off. Maybe this is a coincidence, maybe it would happen anyway if there were no curve and the highway were straight. 95% of the time the highway vibration is bad and I can see the console arm-rest shaking. The truck does shake a little when idling, but it always has.
1997 Chevy truck is four wheel drive, 350 with 185,000 miles. This is my work and fishing truck. I am up and down the highway to St. Louis, Mo. daily (construction worker) and that relentless “through seat” vibration is taking a painful toll on my back. Starting to panic. Do not what to address next and worrying about spending a lot of cash trying to do away with this vibration. Work has been terribly slow and I need to resolve this issue.
Just this morning I noticed that the first shift my automatic transmission makes is not so smooth. Almost like I'm getting a slight shove from behind. Repeated at every stoplight. I know I'll be calling the dealer tomorrow, but am hoping to get ahead of the curve and be prepared for what it might entail.
View 6 RepliesI drive a 2005 Chevy Silverado. I only drive a few miles a day, to and from work. The truck has about 32,000 miles. Recently it has started making a thumping noise, but only randomly. From inside the truck, it sounds like someone is knocking from under my hood while other times there are no unusual noises. I opened my hood while it was making the thumping noise but couldn't hear it from outside the car. Doesn't seem to make a difference what I do - put it in drive, neutral, reverse, park, go fast, slow, stop.
View 5 RepliesMy pickup always bogs down going up a grade, seems like its flooding out and it starts running real rough and vibrating bad, I have to let off gas and pull over .
Been to shop several times, no one seems to know what's causing it.