Silverado :: 2003 2500HD - Code P1516 TAC Module / Reduced Engine Power
Dec 15, 2007
My truck is an 2003 2500hd with the 6l engine and 89k miles. From time to time I'm getting message "reduced engine power". Usually at the morning after 10-15 minutes after starting. I have to pull over, shut it off, wait few seconds then restart it. The ses light goes off usually by end of the day ( or after few hours ). When scanned by chevy tech showing code P1516 Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance. I have new battery with new main cable. TAC Module was cleaned.
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I have a 2003 Chevy 1500HD 6.0L 4x4. I've recently started getting the "Reduced Engine Power" light along with the P1516 Fault code. I've checked all the wires going to the TAC Module, TPS, and MAP, all appear to be in good condition. The Throttle Body is clean and the "flapper moves freely with no sticking. I only have this issue when it is warm outside. Recently we've had fairly code days between 32-50 degree weather but on the few days that it has gotten warmer, I've had the issue. Since it seems to only happen when its warm, I believe it to be a moisture issue, but I'm not sure.
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Truck is a 2003 1500HD Silverado with the 6.0L 364V8. Last winter I started getting the P1516 code and reduced engine power randomly during driving. After dealing with it for about a month I did some research and discovered in most cases it was either the wiring/plug or the TAC module itself. After going over the connections I couldn't see any visible breaks..etc but I decided to go ahead and change out the connector and about 6inches of the wiring.
After replacement the code hadn't come back until today, probably atleast 9months ago was the last time it did it. Today the code came on four times during a 10minute drive. Before it would come on once during the drive, i'd clear it with my scan gauge, and it would not do it again the entire day. I checked all my connections once again and everything is intact and there is no visible breaks and the connector is clean. I'm starting to think that it was just a coincidence that this problem quit when I replaced the connector, and was wondering if colder weather could have weight on this issue?
After poking around the posts on here and other sites I found that many ended up replacing the TAC module which is on the throttle body. After looking at mine the only way I can see replacing that is just buying a new throttle body with the TAC on it, can't seem to find just the TAC part by itself anywhere. So if I were to order a new throttle body how hard is it to remove/install? and do I have to do a relearn process or is it plug and play?
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My crew cab 2001 has 75K miles and is well maintained and garaged. Every once in a while the engine will just quit while driving just as if the key was turned to neutral all dash indicators light up but just quits running. Turn the key to start and hear the engine cranking but won't start. Sometime in park it just cranks however I noticed that when I move the shift lever into neutral and depress the brake it will crank and start sometimes.
I don't believe it's a fuel problem. Could it be a loose wire in the column?
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I have a 2001 2500HD P/U with the 8.1L V8. I have owned the truck for ~5yrs and used it with everything towing. For about the last three years, I have noticed that when the truck is in gear (Either Rev. or Drive) the engine idle almost acts like it is missing. It doesn't do this at higher RPM's (say over 1K) while driving.
Last spring I did a tune up (Plugs and wires) and a few of the plugs had quite a bit of build up so I figured that was what was causing the issue. For about 1wk after the tune up it seemed to clear things up (at least I didn't notice it), but then resurfaced.
My question is: should the "Coil" parts that feed each spark plug need replacing, or could they cause this symptom? The ignition system on this truck is a bit different that what I am used to seeing, so I am not sure where I should start looking for the problem.
Also, there are no error codes being thrown.
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So I just went on a vacation pulling my horse trailer (first time leaving the state with this truck) and at about 5 hrs into the trip I had a message Reduced Engine Power and went from 70 on the interstate to 10 miles an hour and slowing rather quickly. I ended up shutting it off and restarting and it came back just like normal. I found the nearest ford dealer and they put the computer on it and it showed absolutely nothing, no codes and nothing wrong. The mechanic reset some things and we went on our way.
Then I ended up getting a check engine light saturday. I found someone to read the code and it came up with P164A which is an O2 sensor, he was able to clear it and I put on probably 50 miles today and no check engine light. I have about a 10 hour drive back home. Still debating if I take it to ford near here if they will do anything now that it doesn't show a light?? I hate to chance getting broke down on the highway with a truck that will basically shut down like that?? It just doesn't make sense to me.
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I have a 2011 6.7 F-350 Diesel. I bought the truck new and I've never had any problems with it until now. I have a SCT Chip & Tuner. It needed an update so I returned the truck to stock and a code came up on my dashboard that said "reduced engine power" which obviously I thought was Normal because of the modifications done to my truck.
I updated my tuner and returned the truck to a performance tune but this dashboard code will not go away. My truck isn't reading any codes and there's no other indication lights on. The truck has Normal RPM readings but 0 throttle response. No power at all...
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I am having a bad time with my 2006 2500HD 4x4 with the 6.0. First the battery was beginning to act like it was running down, getting weaker and weaker every time I started up truck. So finally truck died at the gas pump. I pulled battery (optima red top), and took it over to NAPA to test. Battery tested fine on top posts, but was acting funny with the side posts.
So, I purchased a new Redtop, and installed and and clunk, truck wont turn over! So, back to Napa to buy a new starter, install starter, hook up battery and now the sucker turns over great but will not start at all. Truck threw 6 codes: P0335, C0035, U1026, U1041, C0040, C0055.
Wiring all looks fine, battery looks new, and I have changed nothing but battery and starter.
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I have been trying to self diagnose an issue with my pick up for a while now. I have an 01 Silverado 2500HD 6.0 that shifts really hard into all gears. I was told it was the transmission going out, so we replaced the transmission with a rebuilt one and it did nothing for the shifting issues. We then had the transfer case rebuilt which also did nothing for our problems. My father who has some general mechanic knowledge is certain that the free floating rear end is not turning with the correct timing for the transmission shifting. No check engine lights come on at all during these issues. When I took it to a mechanic he told me I needed a new transmission and blew me off when I told him it was just replaced.
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I picked up a very clean 2008 Silverado 2500 HD. W/60K miles. The vehicle has been very well cared for as I know the orignal owner. I have zero complaints with the truck other than an annoying front end clunking. Its very reminiscent to the intermediate shaft issues of my 2003 2500HD.
Basically when hitting very small road imperfections, I can feel/hear a clunking in the front suspension. I can also duplicate the issue by rocking the truck left to right with the steering wheel while going 20-30MPH. I figured, stabilizer links. I put the truck up in the air, & can't find a thing wrong. Links are tight as well as the ball joints & tie rod ends. Were these trucks know for a common clunk like this.
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01 2500hd, 8.1L allison auto, push button 4x4. wont lock in until its about 2000 rpm then will release just fine. Just not sure of where to start looking for the problem. Actuator on the axle or in the transfer case or something else?
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I have a 2015 SRW f350 and has been fairly problem free. Last Thursday I was driving home and I received the reduced engine power and code popped up P0088, high pressure fuel rail issue.. anyway, I just popped over 36k miles, the truck is at 36,278 miles, so I take it in thinking they will goodwill it.
I get a call saying they can't clear the code and the TCM AND PCM can't communicate and they have to reach out to Ford engineering. They find the PCM is corrupt, they call me twice and ask if the truck has been tuned, the answer is no, but then pin me against the wall saying I am the second owner, which I am, and that it could have been tuned prior. I tell them to prove it, you can see if there has been a tune. The truck truly has never been tuned, it was sold at Ford factory auction as a employee vehicle.
Now they are trying to tell me the corruption was due to the tune, which it never had. But they won't goodwill it and say I am responsible for all the diag and work done, I say no. I say this should be a warranty issue and should be covered, they say it was tuned, I told them to prove it.
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From time to time, my Tahoe gives me the "Reduced Engine Power" error, and I lose acceleration capabilities and have to pull over. After a min or 2, I can go again, but the check engine light stays on. With no rhyme or reason, the light will be on or off on the next start up. The problem may or may not happen during a short ride or may happen quite often. I have replaced the Accelerator Pedal sensor, so that is not the problem, I'm assuming.
I've been told that it is the Throttle Body that needs to be replaced, but no mechanic can confirm. They just want to replace it and the pedal. I would really like to keep this truck for a couple more years. Other than this problem, the Tahoe has been pretty good to me. Here are the codes that have been read: P1125, 1516, 2120, 2125 ....
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IOur 2003 suburban often gets a "reduced engine power" displayed by the computer and the RPMs drop to below 1,000. The vehicle will not accelerate and will not go above 1,200 RPMs no matter how much gas it is getting. Flooring the gas pedal has absolutely no effect and the truck continues on its merry way at about 20 miles per hour.
I have been told by various amateurs that it is the gas lines or electronics that regulate the gas flow. The reduction in engine power seems to happen randomly, but most often if the vehicle is idling for too long (and I'm sure the 110 degree heat doesn't work). I can get it fixed much quicker if I know what the problem may be.
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I just replaced spark plugs and now it is running rough and reduced engine power light is on. did not mix up wires or coil packs. did one at a time.
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I have a 2003 Escalade that I have maintained since day 1. Occasionally when driving the car it will say system disability and reduced engine power, which drops the speed to 20 and I can give all the gas I want it will not go. Happening on and off for 5 months. I can shut it on and off a couple times and it will go back to normal. Have taken it in a couple times to dealer and they have drove it and drove it and it behaves. They believe it is the Throttle body and sensor. But for the price of it, just replace the fuel pump 2 weeks ago, they suggest to see it happening to give me a 100% diagnosis. For now they believe it is that. Should I fix it or wait till it happens and slowly putt into the dealership.
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This has been a decent truck... lately you drive for 5 miles or so.. it goes to reduced engine power. if you get to side of the road and turn completely off and sit maybe 10 seconds or so, it goes fine again.... I have tried to get a computer reading, but by the time I have gotten it anywhere, the check engine light is off again..
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I have a 2003 Tahoe that I love but is driving me crazy with a "Reduced Engine Power" message. I am driving along and suddenly it dings at me, the message center says "reduced engine power" and I am losing speed. It goes into a "limp mode" in which I cannot accelerate, it cannot pull itself up a hill, and the engine misses badly. I can pull over, shut it off for a couple of minutes and then start it up and run again just fine until it decides to do it again.
There seems to be no rhyme or reason, one day it did it 4 times w/n the first 20 miles, then ran 100 miles w/o doing it at all. I recently took it on a trip that normally takes me 1 1/2 hours, it took 2 1/4 hrs that day because I had to pull over so many times. I was having to stop every 3-4 miles by the time I got there. My usual mechanic has completely given up, told me to trade it. I have had it to another mechanic for over a month now, 3 times he has thought it was fixed, but it wasn't. One time, I didn't even make it the 5 miles to my house before it acted up again.
One other note on this: this past trip I made, I left early in the morning and my lights were flickering high/low. . . this went on for several miles. Finally my lights quit flickering, then I lost engine power, pulled over, shut it off. When I started it back up, the lights started flickering again. The cycle seemed to continue, once the lights would settle, the engine would lose power. I took it to a parts store and had the battery and alternator checked. They said both were fine. (Had never noticed the light thing before, but I can't think of a recent trip after dark.) How I can pass along to my mechanic?
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It happened to me. I was 2 hours into my trip and towing the camper when I got the reduced power CEL. I have 28,000 miles on my truck and always tow in "tow/haul" mode with the exhaust brake on. I was lucky in that I has on a limited access highway and just happened to be approaching an exit to a fuel station with big rig access. I limped in there at about 20MPH checked the code with my Forscan lite and found the P259F code. I typed that into Google and found a thread on another Diesel forum! Some guys said it went away after 3 or 4 restarts. So, I tried a couple of restarts...no luck.
I was down to half a tank of fuel so I filled up and parked. As long as I was parked, I went into the camper and used the bathroom. When I got back in the truck, I thought about the WiFi scan adapter plugged into my OBDII connector and wondered if I should unplug it. I did and everything worked! So, I drove the next 4 hours in "tow/haul" mode, but I left the EB off. I also never plugged in the WiFi scan adapter because I didn't want to risk going into the reduced power mode again. Anyway, we made it home without incident. One of the reasons I traded my 2013 in on a 2015 was to get the engine improvements and the EB. I sure don't want to give up the EB. I'm going to take mine to the dealer, but after reading this post, I'm not expecting anything much.
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I just pulled over when my truck flashed reduced power. Pulled code and it came up poo88. What to expect?
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This truck has been a good running truck until recently..... lately you can drive for awhile then the check engine light comes on... readout says reduce engine power.... if you stop for like 30 seconds or less and restart all is fine. It doesn't do this all the time or every time has done it once a day or 4 times in a row, never a rhyme or reason to it. I have used my computer reader to see if i can find the problem myself but for some reason the reader can't read ( still trying to trace why.... even the free scan from oreillys couldn't link to my onboard computer for some reason) so the problem to the onboard computer not linking to any reader?
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