Silverado :: 06 2500HD Truck Won't Run After Battery Change?
Sep 27, 2015
I am having a bad time with my 2006 2500HD 4x4 with the 6.0. First the battery was beginning to act like it was running down, getting weaker and weaker every time I started up truck. So finally truck died at the gas pump. I pulled battery (optima red top), and took it over to NAPA to test. Battery tested fine on top posts, but was acting funny with the side posts.
So, I purchased a new Redtop, and installed and and clunk, truck wont turn over! So, back to Napa to buy a new starter, install starter, hook up battery and now the sucker turns over great but will not start at all. Truck threw 6 codes: P0335, C0035, U1026, U1041, C0040, C0055.
Wiring all looks fine, battery looks new, and I have changed nothing but battery and starter.
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I have a 2001 2500HD P/U with the 8.1L V8. I have owned the truck for ~5yrs and used it with everything towing. For about the last three years, I have noticed that when the truck is in gear (Either Rev. or Drive) the engine idle almost acts like it is missing. It doesn't do this at higher RPM's (say over 1K) while driving.
Last spring I did a tune up (Plugs and wires) and a few of the plugs had quite a bit of build up so I figured that was what was causing the issue. For about 1wk after the tune up it seemed to clear things up (at least I didn't notice it), but then resurfaced.
My question is: should the "Coil" parts that feed each spark plug need replacing, or could they cause this symptom? The ignition system on this truck is a bit different that what I am used to seeing, so I am not sure where I should start looking for the problem.
Also, there are no error codes being thrown.
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My crew cab 2001 has 75K miles and is well maintained and garaged. Every once in a while the engine will just quit while driving just as if the key was turned to neutral all dash indicators light up but just quits running. Turn the key to start and hear the engine cranking but won't start. Sometime in park it just cranks however I noticed that when I move the shift lever into neutral and depress the brake it will crank and start sometimes.
I don't believe it's a fuel problem. Could it be a loose wire in the column?
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I have been trying to self diagnose an issue with my pick up for a while now. I have an 01 Silverado 2500HD 6.0 that shifts really hard into all gears. I was told it was the transmission going out, so we replaced the transmission with a rebuilt one and it did nothing for the shifting issues. We then had the transfer case rebuilt which also did nothing for our problems. My father who has some general mechanic knowledge is certain that the free floating rear end is not turning with the correct timing for the transmission shifting. No check engine lights come on at all during these issues. When I took it to a mechanic he told me I needed a new transmission and blew me off when I told him it was just replaced.
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I picked up a very clean 2008 Silverado 2500 HD. W/60K miles. The vehicle has been very well cared for as I know the orignal owner. I have zero complaints with the truck other than an annoying front end clunking. Its very reminiscent to the intermediate shaft issues of my 2003 2500HD.
Basically when hitting very small road imperfections, I can feel/hear a clunking in the front suspension. I can also duplicate the issue by rocking the truck left to right with the steering wheel while going 20-30MPH. I figured, stabilizer links. I put the truck up in the air, & can't find a thing wrong. Links are tight as well as the ball joints & tie rod ends. Were these trucks know for a common clunk like this.
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01 2500hd, 8.1L allison auto, push button 4x4. wont lock in until its about 2000 rpm then will release just fine. Just not sure of where to start looking for the problem. Actuator on the axle or in the transfer case or something else?
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My truck is an 2003 2500hd with the 6l engine and 89k miles. From time to time I'm getting message "reduced engine power". Usually at the morning after 10-15 minutes after starting. I have to pull over, shut it off, wait few seconds then restart it. The ses light goes off usually by end of the day ( or after few hours ). When scanned by chevy tech showing code P1516 Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance. I have new battery with new main cable. TAC Module was cleaned.
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I have a 2000 Silverado Z71 with a 4.8 and Auto Trans. Here lately if the truck sits for more than a day with out being cranked the battery is dead. Put a new battery in last July. When i put a meter on it the Alt. shows 14 volts out put. once it is cranked it will start every time with no problem.
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I have a 1999 Gmc Truck 1500 5.0 v8. Notice my truck starting heavy..like a low battery or something. This started getting worse over the week till the point where it cranks real slow. So i bought a new battery. Installed battery and still the same issue...slow crank like it wants to lock up. So i removed starter and notice some wear on the fly wheel so i replaced flywheel. Still the same thing! So this week i bought a new starter and guess what same issue. What is cause for a slow crank.
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I have a 2000 Silverado with the 5.3L V8, 138K miles, it never leaked oil until an oil change a few months ago, it started leaking right after the change, like night and day. There is nothing wrong with the filter I have removed it and tried a new one. I have replaced the valve cover gaskets and still have a leak. I have read where the 5.3 Vortec has inherent problems with oil pan and rear main seal gaskets. The oil is dripping on both sides of the oil pan toward the drain plug and at the seam between the tranny bell housing and rear of motor block, so it's not confined to just one side of the pan.
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My owner's manual states that I should change my transmission fluid and filter at 100,000 miles for a vehicle that experiences "normal" driving. My question is this- should I follow the owners manual on this or change out the fluid and filter at 75,000 miles? I just turned 70,000 miles and the fluid is not showing any signs of burnt material it and it still looks and "smells" healthy. Oh, I would consider myself a "normal" driver as well. The vehicle is a 2004 Chevy Silverado 4x4 with the 5.3 L engine.
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I have a 2010 5.3 silverado, extended cab 2WD with 100K Miles on it. It's time to change the transmission fluid and Filter. It looks like there is an exaust pipe that runs about 3-4 inches under the transmission pan. Can I drop the pan without removing the exhaust pipe so i can change the filter?
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I have a 98 chevy truck that won't start. After it sits. It was starting after cycling the key a few times. But now it won't start. Could it be the pump? I hear it running.
Or could it be the regulator? It was running good after it started. No check engine light, no gas smell, and no rough idle.
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I have a 1997 Chevrolet Z71 4x4 truck. 350 engine.
This morning I went to start the vehicle and it cranks fine but doesn't turn over. It cranks at a normal speed and then every second or so struggles, and then cranks normally again. About 2 weeks ago I went to start it and the starter didnt engage, it just spun. I released, tried again and it started right up. It did that twice over about two weeks. I figured the starter had gotten too weak, so I replaced.... No change.
The truck has been running quite rough for a little while, and I was doing research to replace the valves and sensors that were recommended (EGR and Idle Air Valves), but the truck seems to have decided that I will do this maintenance now, whatever it is. By running rough, I mean, when it idles, it shakes some. Going down the highway, it runs fine and doesn't miss or anything like that. It is sluggish, but it is a 16 yr old truck with 230000 miles, so it just seemed somewhat normal.
I have checked for spark, and verified that. I can smell fuel when I crank, so I don't think its a fuel problem, although tomorrow I will see if it will fire off starter fluid to verify. I have had the rotor go out before, but it seems when it did that it didn't stagger when I crank.
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I got a 99 Silverado z71. Well my problems started yesterday morning going to work when I got to work I tried backing into my parking spot I got to put it in reverse and to start backing up and the truck acted like it was in neutral. So without thinking I shut the truck off turned it back on and tried again and it worked like nothing ever happened. So I thought nothing of it sat there with the truck running since I'm there early I figured I had enough time to go get a bite to eat so I put it in drive And go to pull out and the truck was acting real sluggish taking off in 1st. Almost like it was slipping again restarted the truck and the problem was gone get back to work parked it.
Later that night on my way home on the highway I noticed the truck was shuttering periodically and the rpms were at around 2000 going 65. When the real problem started was when I came to a stop light and go to take off it was really sluggish and slipping pretty bad so I pulled into a gas station stop and restarted the truck and it temporarily fixed the problem tell I was five miles from my house this time it started slipping really bad. I was able to limp it home, I also noticed it skipped 2nd and went into 3rd. What I'm stumped on is why everytime I shut it off and restart it, it acts like nothing happens tell later down the road.
Could it be a computer problem or is the transmission done for?
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Drove the truck one week ago today and it ran perfectly fine. Drove it last night for about 20 minutes - ran fine. Drove it again today just 1 minute up the road - ran fine. Started it again this evening and drove it 5 minutes down the road - ran fine. Stopped and put gas in it - now it's not fine. After putting gas in it it refused to start but will turn over. Put a booster pack on it and it will start but would only stay running with the gas pedal pushed all the way to the floor, as soon as you took it off it dies. Now it will not stay running even with the gas pushed all the way down.
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But i have a 99 silverado 5.3l z71(new body style) bought a new key fob to program but my truck will not go into program mode. Ive tried the hold unlock then cycle ignition and the turn signal version but neither one worked....
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My 2002 4.8L Silverado recently started having this intermittent starting problem.
A few days ago I got in to start it, turned the key and nothing happened. Lights, radio and power locks all were working fine but engine would not crank or turn over. Turned the key off and on a few times and then the truck started fine.
It started fine for about 3 days. Then got in to start it the next day and this happened again. Turn the key and nothing. Lights, power locks, radio all working ok. Turned the key off and on multiple times but still nothing. So I cleaned the battery cable connections and fully charged the battery, even though it checked out ok. Tried it again and same thing was happening.
This time I looked at the ignition and starting relays under the hood in the electrical box. I swapped a few of them around, tried to start it each time and still nothing.
So I had the vehicle towed to the dealership to be checked. The next day the service man calls me to tell me when they went to check it, the truck is starting fine.
I am not sure if this is a starter problem, ignition switch problem or maybe the computer. The thing is, I can't drive it like this because it is no longer reliable.
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I have a 92 chevy truck with a 350 engine that came out of a 93 chevy my problem is my module in the distributor keeps going bad when i spoke with the previous owner of the motor he told me that he had the same problem and advised me to change the distributor. So I took my distributor out of the original motor and put in but the problem still exist, also I have noticed that I have nearly twice the exhaust coming from the drivers side tail pipe as I do the passengers side.
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My silverado no longer starts and the fuel gauge no longer reads. so far figured out that there is no power to the fuel pump and sending unit. Looking for an engine wiring diagram for this truck with the 6.0 engine?
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I have a 98 Chevy truck with a 4L60E. It has no second gear. I was sitting in park for about 10 minutes with the engine running, then put it in drive and it never shifted into second. It felt like it went straight to 3rd. I played with it manually until I figured out I had reverse, 1st, 3rd, 4th and torque converter lockup, just no second gear. My acceleration rate was medium and when I reach about 27-28 mph it would shift from 1st into 3rd. It has 230K on it so I rebuilt it with all the typical parts - frictions, steels, band, sun shell etc., still no second. I then pulled the pan back off and replaced the spacer plate and put in a shift kit. While I had it down I put a corvette servo in and did an air check. It worked fine. I could feel the band tighten.
Both the 1-2 and 2-3 solenoids checked good at 23 ohms. I swapped their positions to see if it would make a difference. I also checked to make sure the 1-2 accumulator piston wasn't stuck in its bore, the spring was new from the shift kit. It was fine. Put it back together...still no second gear. When I originally pulled the pan off for the rebuild, the pan was free of any debris and was very clean. I then drove it a couple of miles to a local transmission shop. They put their scan tool on it and drove it around the block. There were no codes and the ECM was calling for second gear. It doesn't sound mechanical since almost all the parts have been replaced, rebuilt or inspected that affect the 1-2 shift. It sounds electrical. Is there anything I have missed?
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