Golf/GTI VI :: 2009 - Codes Came On / Throttle Malfunction
Jul 7, 2016
I have a 2009 gti and been having some problems with my throttle. Few codes came up for the longest time on and off. So one day after work I started my car and it started just didn't idle high then quit on me so I decided to take it to a local dealer to have the throttle body adpt and it was fine for about a week. Then same codes came back on witch was my angle sensor 2 throttle and position sensor too. So I got a new throttle body been a month I've had no problems until today. It stalled on me so I scanned it and codes for my valve was malfunctioning.
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I have a 2000 GTI GLX VR6 and when I start it in the morning (ie cold) after the initial "choke" and the revs drop it becomes erratic. Sometimes it will stall out. If I restart the car it will throw a check engine light and go into limp mode. If I let the car warm up it runs fine. If the car has been driven and is relatively warm it runs fine. Initially there were several codes but after replacing the MAF and the fuel pump relay the only remaining code is P1545.
My mechanic seems to think it may be the coolant temperature sensor. The code seems to indicate the problem is the throttle. "Throttle position control malfunction". Not sure why warming it up makes a difference (unless of course it is the temp sensor). When I replaced the MAF sensor I did clean the throttle body. I was very careful in doing so. Problem existed prior to my cleaning it as well. After changing the fuel pump relay things were better for a few days but then the problem returned.
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I do what's written in the book (hold brake, turn ESP off, S-mode) but when i press the throttle I cannot go over 1000-1100 RPM - after a slight vibration the clutch seem to disengage and the engine goes idle. What am I doing wrong or is my version without LC?
The car is 2009 Golf 6 1.4 TSI 160hp DSG.
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I have taken it to 3 different dealer service centers, and everytime they charge me to update the computer software. They still haven't fixed anything, and everytime I leave the dealer after "getting it fixed", within 25 miles the problem reoccurs. According to my owner's manual the electronic throttle control malfunction warning light is only on the Hemi Rams.
The problem causes the truck to jerk, idle improperly, the engine loses power and shuts off at low speeds usually when turning, and sometimes when the truck accelerates after a complete stop, it hesitates causing the tires to screech when it finally builds up enough RPM to move, this last one has caused me several explanations to police officers on why I am "laying rubber" on their city streets, as if the Hemi emblem doesn't attract enough unwanted attention from the local highway law enforcement officers..
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I'm an Mk3 guy but I've gotten the hang of these beasts when I started to fix my brother's '99 B5 AEB. I got a VCDS scan from a friend and got this.
5 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-00 - -
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large
P1544 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16507 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too High
P0123 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 0101
I'm thinking either the throttle body is toast or maybe the ECU.
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Back in March I started a thread regarding my 04 Santa Fe 3.5 which would not start after a spark plug change.
After a ton of research, & a smoke test on the intake I came to the conclusion that there was an issue with the throttle sensor as I unknowingly opened it when I was removing the intake to get to the last bolts behind the manifold. Shortly after my post, I decided to bite the bullet & buy a junkyard TB out of another Santa Fe 3.5.
After installing the new TB, the car now starts but runs extremely rich. I am now getting the code p2135 for Electronic Throttle Control System Malfunction.
Luckily up until this point I haven't needed the Santa Fe as it is mainly a winter vehicle. However, winter is quickly approaching & I would like to have her running before the snow starts to fly.
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I have a 2005 Grand caravan with a 3.3L. Over the summer I was having issues with the transmission.Got the codes reaf, P0700 and P1726( I think). After this had an input speed sensor replaced and the TCM. The van worked for about 3 months, but now is acting up again. This time I got codes P0700 and P0704. Was told it was a clutch switch malfunction. Can't seem to find any details about this code.
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2010 Sonata GL Sport at 122,000 kms (75,800 miles)
Engine Malfunction Light came on solid. Using ODBII reader, my Honda mechanic friend read the codes to be
P0106 Current, Pending, Permanent - Faulty Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
P0304 Pending - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
He replaced MAP sensor and Coil pack. But the Engine Light remains on solid. Now its only giving code P0106 which kind of points back to MAP sensor.
Spark plugs has never been replaced so I've been suggesting to replace it anyways proactively.
Questions:
1. What else may be causing the Engine Light?
2. When do Spark Plugs typically get replaced?
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2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
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Ok so with age we are starting to see this code more and more and I figured it was common enough to do a video on just what it is all about. It has to do with the Egr throttle plate sticking in its bore and upon the sweep the pcm does it does no return to the full open position. In the video I show you exactly why it is flagging that dtc and how to replace the egr throttle plate with a few tips.
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I do not know the 5.4l 3v as well as my last 360ci dodge. It's a 2005 F-150 SuperCrew 4x4, got it cheap, and it's got issues. Got codes for misfire on cylinders 4 and 5 and Coil 'D' circuit malfunction. Obviously it has codes for limited power as well. was wondering how cylinder numbering goes and what coil is 'D'.
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I have a 130K+ 2002 SC430 in which I recently started to smell gas in the cabin when air vents were set to pull air from outside. Within two weeks, I got the check engine light with two codes, P0440 and P0446, which mean "Evap Emission Control System Malfunction".
In doing some research the check light light could be everything from a gas cap which is not tighened properly, to a bad "charcoal canister " (whatever exactly that is), to a cracked or disconnected "Evap Hose". The only other SC430 related thread I could find on this topic is [URL] ....
If it factors in, I only use 93 octane gas. Interestingly enough, the check engine light came on within 30 seconds of me using the window washer to clean the windshield (at highway speeds), likely a coincidence.
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Have a 2000 F-150, 5.4L. Once recently in a parking lot, it would crank but not fire or start. Wife called me to come get her. By the time I got there, she said it started "after she loosened the gas cap & re-closed it." But, it started fine for next several weeks. Yesterday it didn't. I read a bunch of threads here on possibilities. Many troubleshoot items I checked out or had done.
Chilton manual says you can get limited error codes from the light on dash flashing - MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method.
For now, I'm trying to find the 2nd, separate, one-wire lead "near or with the (main) Diagnostic Connector." They call the single wire / connector the "Self-Test Input connector" (STI). You're supposed to use a jumper between that STI & the upper, right connector of the main diagnostic connector. Then you (may) get flashes corresponding to codes via the key on, engine off method.
I see no such single wire lead or connector anywhere near there. Not up under the dash either - stuck my head under there & used mirror. There's a separate connector (not in use) clipped on the L side of the main diagnostic connector, but it has 5 pins inside. I took pics, but forum says I "may not post attachments." Been a member for yrs. That extra 5 pin connector faces toward firewall.
There's an "empty hole" - 1/4 in. (facing forward) in the bracket that holds the main diagnostic connector. Just above the main connector. Not sure if something was ever there
If no one knows how / if the Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method works or where the jumper goes, I'll be forced to buy a code reader w/o researching which are decent or crap (around $200 or less). I maybe? could wait to order one online (if knew which one). Also have AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, PepBoys & others locally.
* The truck shows a check engine soon light, so should be a code already. * Yes, I tried her loosen / tighten gas cap trick.
* Also put a slow charger on for a while & even used the fast start setting on charger. No go, but engine turns really fast.
* Crawled under the gas tank & listened for fuel pump to activate when key is turned to Run.
* Fuel pump made a small noise - more like a relay or "clicking" - not a whine or whir.
* Checked most fuses - under dash & hi voltage box - that have anything to do w/ fuel pump, PCM & several others - mentioned in similar threads here.
Can't really check relays & don't want to just start replacing parts. I don't have a code reader & reluctant to buy one from local store w/o some reasonable research. (I don't mind buying one, but...). If I could drive it to the auto store, I wouldn't be asking this. Chilton's doesn't say if this malfunction indicator lamp method will work if a vehicle won't start. But, a code is already thrown.
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My '01 7.3 is having some transmission problems, My O/D light is flashing. Trying to go after stopping at a light is a difficult, it drives very sluggish, like its not in overdrive. Scanned it and got three codes P0732, P0720, P0503. I replaced the ABS/VSS on the differential and the problem still exist.
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2001 F250. I have had issues on other trucks where you get a funny-acting speedometer with a code that comes up as VSS (sensor on top of the rear differential)....And it shifted exact same way.
My new truck speedometer is totally fine and the ABS is on with codes:
C1158 Left front speed sensor coherency malfunction
C1155 Left front speed sensor input circuit malfunction
Shifts about the same way on the trucks with bad VSS.
Question is will a bad front speed sensor affect the way the trans shifts? Doesn't happen all the time. If you go slow it shifts smooth. If you pull off fast a barely noticeable jerk from 1-2 and 2-3....
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I have a 2005 F150 5.4 FX4 and I had these two codes thrown over the past week/few days...P0325 and P1000 (pictures below of descriptions...I have an edge programmer and have been running it on the highest setting for a while now but always run premium fuel. I got these codes and reset them and they came right back. I then reset the cpu to the factory programming and they still keep coming back. I still have premium in it and it seems like when you hammer it that it falls flat on its face! It runs good and pretty smooth but seems like it has no power when throttle is pushed hard. It seems like it has a small vibration at about 3,000 RPM but only for a few seconds and then smooths right back out again. The truck has 88,000 miles and I just put new Motorcraft plugs in it about 6,000 miles ago. Not sure what I should do or what is the next step.
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I have now twice had the ESC malfunction in my '09 Sonata (manual Transmission). The last two times I was on the freeway and we had a deluge coming down, the ESC light (dash) kept flashing on and off and it felt as though the ESC was engaging and disengaging rapidly. IN addition, the car started losing power where my speed dropped from 60-65 mph down to 45-50 mph even with my foot buried. As soon as the road dried up a little, it went back to normal. My mechanic checked it out but could not find anything in the codes or anything else wrong.
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The trunk latch on my 2009 Mercury Marquis is malfunctionng. It sometimes will close OK, then at other times it will not, and then it requires that I hit the trunk button on the car remote button to make ithe latch close. I have tried WD-40 on it, but it still does not work OK. The Ford dealer said that I need a new latch installed at a cost of $265! Can I buy a new lacth (ca. $45) and install it myself, or does it require any special tools or a reset of the car's onboard computer?
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I have a 2009 GS 350 and I attempted to start it today but when I tried to start it up it wouldn't fire up as all the ignition lights kept coming on and I pressed the button repeatedly but couldn't start. After a few attempts I noticed the brake was still down from pressing it while I push the start button but the car still won't start. After a while I noticed none of the lights won't come on so I assume its the battery but then I notice the warning light that came on and in the owners manual they call it the Malfunction indicator Light. It states a malfunction in either the emission control, engine control, throttle control or automatic control systems. It says call the dealer if this occurs which I will do tomorrow.
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I have a 2009 Honda accord ex coupe and the Ac works fine when I'm driving but once I stop it stops and the air starts to get warmer but if I rev it at a red light the Ac starts to work and I have nice cold air. Both radiator and condenser fan work and are spinning and the same time when the Ac is on. The compressor will cycle on and off at idle but it will turn on for maybe two seconds. And turn off but if I have someone rev the engine it will kick on and stay on at about 1500rpm and the Ac works normally I have no leaks.
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I have a 2009 Jeep Liberty Sport 4X4 with 63,000 miles. There have been issues starting the car for about a year and a half.
It all started when a key was inserted into the ignition about a year and a half ago and a click would just be heard after the key was turned to the start position. Usually it started after the key was removed and inserted again. Sometimes it would take a few tries but most of the time it would start right up on the try one.
After 10 months, the battery was replaced after the vehicle had to be jump started. Shortly after, I had a Viper 5901 remote starter installed in the vehicle by a reputable store. The issue seemed to go away and thought the issue was fixed. The vehicle now was started from the remote control 90% of the time.
The issue started to become worse about 2 months ago. It would take more than 15 tries to start and to temporarily relieve the issue; it can be started on the 3rd or 4th try by rocking the vehicle. The starter was replaced two weeks ago by a reputable auto mechanic at my request. I went to a camp the day after for a week and most of the time it just sat in the hot sun except for short errands sporadically throughout the week.
I then went on a week vacation and the car sat in the driveway. I came back and the car didn’t have any power. The battery read 1.2 volts. It was jump started and then I went to work. At the end of the work day, I tried to start the vehicle and just heard the click. After rocking the vehicle, it started right up.
I was curious to why the battery was that low and so I hooked up a meter inline from the battery terminal to the disconnected red wire. Please find the results below:
-Entire top of the fuse box was removed of fuses, relays, etc. – read 0.20A empty – it sounded like the fuse box clicked when the circuit was completed. Not quite sure what was plugged in to draw that much current.
-The fuse box was reconstructed except for a few fuses – read 0.24A
-M13 fuse was connected and current increased to 0.64A (0.40A increase from previous)M13 – 20A fuse for Cabin Compartment Node (CCN)/Wireless Control Module (WCM)/Multifunction Control Switch.
-M12 fuse was connected and current increased to 1.67A (1.03A increase from previous)M12 - 30A fuse for Radio/Amplifier
-Viper fuse was connected and current increased to 1.73A (0.06A increase from previous)
I guess it come down to a few questions:
-What could be the reasoning the vehicle does not start consistently? Is it due to the battery or something else?
-What would draw a ¼ Amp without any visible connections on the top of the fuse box?
-Why would fuse M12 take so much current without a key in the ignition?
-Anything else I should look for?
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