On my 2010 Golf with 2.5, when I first start car above 40 degrees it goes into high idle for a few seconds which is normal. However, below 40 degrees it goes into low idle on cold motor. I brought this to 2 different dealers and they checked computer and fin no fault codes. How can I get this fixed?
View 11 RepliesI picked up my latest R back in April - 3 owner, 33K mile car - as far as I know no tune. The previous owner owned the car for the previous 9 years and kept it stock.
The issue: If the car sits for more than one day (I work form home so this happens a lot) upon initial start up it will start and idle at 800 RPM and then drop a little from there once warmed up. Now if the car sits for less than a day, it will cold start as it should - high idle then a gradual drop.
My car is a 2010 gti mk6, unitronic stage 2, apr turboback, r8 coilpacks, stock intake with k&n drop in filter. Several months ago, it started throwing CELs, P2096 post catalyst fuel trim system too lean bank1. I cleared it. It kept coming back. Sometimes it threw P2293 fuel pressure regulator 2 performance but I read it via VCDS, it should be P0088 Fuel Rail/System Pressure too high - intermittent. it was accompanied by some high idles at stop light e.g. at constant 900, 1000 or even 1200rpm occasionally. but the car drove well, seemed like nothing wrong.
High idle youtube link: [URL] .....
I changed the front o2 sensor but the problem persisted. Then I thought it was the MAF, I unplugged it, oil consumption improved but high idle and the above P2293 persisted. Recently, the high idle appears more frequently. I now suspect it is the PCV valve. I took off the oil cap this morning, felt some suction, the engine shakes a little and exhaust sounded a little rough but rpm didn't change. Taking off the oil dipstick showed the same. Is it the pcv valve?
I've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
when cold motor reves high when in gear and car doesn't want to go very fast. after car warms up runs fine. doesn't do this in the summer. just winter.
View 1 RepliesI had some problems with my Elantra and I fixed (or tried to) them all this weekend. I needed a new IAC motor, the motor was reving up and down and I tested it, then changed it. I needed a fuel injector and changed that. I needed a lower thermostat housing and changed that.
These changes resulted in the following problems. The vehicle now revs at a high idle all the time at approximately 3000. What are the causes of this?
I know that when I was burping the coolant system (changing out all the hoses and the thermostat housing) I got antifreeze sprayed all over the top of the motor.
Here is the problems that I have now. Didn't have these before.....
The engine idles at or about 3000 rpm. Constant from startup until shutdown. It idles down when you shift it into gear but that is because of the strain on the motor with the brake used.
The transmission is now having problems shifting from 1st to 2nd. I checked the fluid, its good. There is however antifreeze on top of the transmission by some sensors. Do these sensors have anything to do with the shifting?
Every morning for the last 3 days I've gone to go warm up my car and each time i turn on the car only from a cold start up i hear this loud high pitch noise from the motor. If i turn the car off and restart it. It goes away and the car is at perfect idle. what is this and do i have some serious problems?
Is this true? If it's only on a cold start up, and then it goes away during normal driving, you have no need to fear....that's the Secondary Air Injection Pump that turns on during cold starts, and the plastic hose just needs to be replaced.. If so where is it located so i can replace this hose.
My 2009 with the 3.3 motor will rev up when cold drop to a low idle then surge up again. It will do this until it is warm even when in drive. It never did this before only in the winter it would start at fast idle for a minute then drop to normal idle. There are no codes or lights, what would cause this?
View 6 Replies I've always find solution to solve my little issues with my Toyota Echo 2004 Hatchback. Since last summer, my car seems to have a lot of problems to idle well with the fine rpm. Here are all the events :
-it all started last summer, when the motor would start to idle really high for a couple of minutes, before getting back to normal. When this happened, a p011 check engine would light up. I switched to synthetic oil, and it greatly reduce the number of time this happen, but it didn't solve it entirely. It usually happens when the motor is warm, but still not hot.
-Only once, during a long ride, I got a check engine. When I left the highway, my motor wouldn't stop idling high. stop/start the motor wouldn't change anything. I checked the check engine codes, if I remember well : p011, p016 and misfire. With a friend, we checked the crankshaft sensor, and it was really dirty, so we washed it, and it solved the problem! A few days after, I also change my spark plug because they were starting to be old.
-A few weeks ago, I started my car and it was idling high as usual to heat up faster (it is winter now). But then, the rpm suddenly drop really quickly. The rpm was really low for may be 2 seconds, and it nearly chokes, but just before it went up back to normal. Then low/high/low/high until the motor was hot. No check engine. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, and when I reconnected it, the problem was solve. I also checked the air filter, but it wasn't dirty.
-Then, sometimes when I start my car, idling is fine but suddenly at a red light the motor start to run really low with a lot of vibrations and a bad smell. Stop and restart the motor solve the problem! But only until the next red light, or until the motor is warm enough. Still no check engine.
Unless you manually hold throttle when cold jeep will stall. Once engine is warm all is fine. So what controls the high idle?
View 2 RepliesMy Prius just reached 200000 km this week. I bought it at 180000 km 2 years ago, I don't drive it that much simply because I work from home.
Today, a sunny day, 0 degrees, the check engine just lit-up. I opened the hood and checked fluid levels, all OK. I started it and listened to the engine, running as usual. However, when the motor stopped (hybrid ON), I can hear a high frequency noise. I don't remember hearing this noise, but I don't think I ever opened the hood with the engine Off but powered On.
How can I get the check engine code ? I assume I need a connector, right ?
I tried searching and only found rough idle at startup, so here is my issue. At the same point in my AM drive, quite often I'll come to a stoplight and the motor will idle fairly roughly. If I switch to the "car" on the dash, it indicates the motor should be off. It is not charging the battery. Today it did it when I was only one bar from full battery. Also did it at the next light I came to.
This happens at the end of the commute. I've already covered 40+ mostly highway miles.
Bought my 2006, V6, about 2 months ago. This morning was the first really cold once since I bought the care. When I started it today, the idle speed was about 1200 RPM. It took a few minutes to warm up and then the idle speed dropped to normal. Quick question. Is this normal?
View 1 RepliesThe other day I disconnected battery, then removed and cleaned the throttle body. Now cold-start idle is high, and erratic,
goes to 1,600, drops to 1,000
- back to 1600, drops, up to 1,400
-- wavers there, and then finally,
starts to taper down to steady idle of about 650-700 rpm.
Since battery disconnected, does not seem there would be a chance for TB to "un-synch" with cars computer.
I have recently bought a 2007 ES350 that's runs fantastic considering I bought it with high miles from the Lexus dealer (149k). I live in warm climate area and I notice that even though it's not cold out in the mornings my car idles high (at about 2k) for only a few minutes 2-4 tops then starts to drop to normal as it warms up. It hurts me to hear it as I'm not use to this and I worry that it may cause damage to my engine due to oil not being circulated properly yet.
Most importantly, ONLY when cold, I hear a very light knocking sound, kinda like a bad lifter tick, but by the time I get to my daughters school which is about 5-6 miles away it goes away and sounds normal at that point. Had me very concerned as I just bought it less than a few weeks ago and I'm afraid something was wrong and dealer may been able to mask it at my point of purchase and now its starting to rear its ugly head.
This is my first Lexus ES350, not really sure if it's normal or not. I can tell you, when it warms up, I've jumped out of my car and have put me ear to the good and can't hear the tick. Should I be concerned? Is high idle with tick normal if it goes away when it warms up or is it a fair warning something is bad or about to go bad?
Truck is a 2003 Ranger EDGE 2wd auto w/140K miles (looks new) that was a one owner truck I recently bought. Came from Texas and is clean and was well maintained I got all service records up until I bought it in the fall last year. OK now the problems...
First...it has a high idle in the mornings when cold about 2000RPM. After it warms up it settles to about 800-900RPM but is VERY ROUGH to the point where it feels it will stall. I DID replace the spark plugs and the plug wires look newer and are not OEM. I DID remove and clean the IAC and it does not look very dirty but I did slightly clean it anyway.
When I did this I disconnected the battery for 20min. After I put it back together it ran smooth for about the first 10 minutes then same rough idle came back. I was told this truck has no EGR so that's not an issue. There are NO CODES and when I ran my pocket scanner nothing comes up either. Should I just go to NAPA and get a new IAC anyway? What else can I do?
I'm going to cut right to the chase, when did ford stop having the diesel high idle when it is cold? I have a 2015 350 I bought last August and assumed it would high idle like previous power strokes. I even put a ts6 chip in my 97 just for high idle option to keep the motor warm when idling around our farm. I realize ford probably doesn't want trucks idling long because it kills mpg and isn't good for the emission system but to be honest I could really care less about mpg as long as it's decent and a high idle would keep emissions pushed through. Is there an option or anyway you can get the 6.7 liter to high idle?
View 1 RepliesSometimes when my car as sitting at an idle in either drive or reverse the motor starts to make a knocking noise from the back of the motor towards the firewall side on the top of the motor. I have a video. The car has 114k I just changed the oil I thought maybe it's low but it's not and hasn't moved since it was changed.
View 4 RepliesMy starter motor in my 2004 Golf 2.0 doesn't engage or spin when it is very cold. By very cold, I mean below 5F.
The battery has plenty of juice, and jumping the battery doesn't work. I turn the key to "start" and nothing happens. When key is in the on position, fans, wipers, etc all work fine. When the car warms up to 20F or so, everything is fine and the car starts.
Here's the funny thing. If I put a little space heater on the driver side floor to warm up the fuse and relay panel, it starts with no issue.
I don't know enough about the interlocks between load reduction, starter motor, ignition switch etc to make a good guess as to which relay (if any) may stick in extreme cold. It's a tough problem to diagnose, because I can only experiment when it gets REALLY cold, when it isn't very fun to experiment anyway. I don't think it's the piggy back harness, because the wipers, horn and fan all work.
Does the 2002 7.3 have an automatic high idle in cold weather?When you start it after it runs for a few moments it goes into high idle until you hit the accelerator. I had a 96 powerstroke before this one,it didn't do this. Just wondering?
View 4 RepliesWith 132k on the clock, motor has shutters at idle and rattles under acceleration even though seems pull smoothly otherwise - if that makes sense. Anyway, changed plugs and coil packs all without any results. No codes either from the computer. Shop thinks it could be a timing chain tensioner but after spending as much as I have to this point, can't really afford to just start trying things.
View 8 Replies