Golf IV R32 :: Cold Start As It Should - High Idle Then A Gradual Drop
Jan 7, 2014
I picked up my latest R back in April - 3 owner, 33K mile car - as far as I know no tune. The previous owner owned the car for the previous 9 years and kept it stock.
The issue: If the car sits for more than one day (I work form home so this happens a lot) upon initial start up it will start and idle at 800 RPM and then drop a little from there once warmed up. Now if the car sits for less than a day, it will cold start as it should - high idle then a gradual drop.
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Unless you manually hold throttle when cold jeep will stall. Once engine is warm all is fine. So what controls the high idle?
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On my 2010 Golf with 2.5, when I first start car above 40 degrees it goes into high idle for a few seconds which is normal. However, below 40 degrees it goes into low idle on cold motor. I brought this to 2 different dealers and they checked computer and fin no fault codes. How can I get this fixed?
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Bought my 2006, V6, about 2 months ago. This morning was the first really cold once since I bought the care. When I started it today, the idle speed was about 1200 RPM. It took a few minutes to warm up and then the idle speed dropped to normal. Quick question. Is this normal?
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The other day I disconnected battery, then removed and cleaned the throttle body. Now cold-start idle is high, and erratic,
goes to 1,600, drops to 1,000
- back to 1600, drops, up to 1,400
-- wavers there, and then finally,
starts to taper down to steady idle of about 650-700 rpm.
Since battery disconnected, does not seem there would be a chance for TB to "un-synch" with cars computer.
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Drove into work this morning (2 hour trip)...after the truck warmed up and I was cruising on the highway at around 80mph and 2100 RPMs the truck started to show a drop in the MPG rating. Usually around 19mpg...it was displaying 13-14mpg. I stopped to take on some fuel..when I did realized the truck was shaking pretty bad at idle and had an almost lope like sound. I shut the truck off and got some diesel...after starting her back up, the lope and shake was gone. I started on the highway again...running smooth and then it started to show low MPGs again but no shake...I accelerated thinking that I could unfreeze whatever was being restricted (turbo, injectors..) and it immediately loosened up and I started getting the MPGs I usually do and felt the truck gain more power. The last hour of the trip was completely normal. Did something just get stuck?
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It's been pretty cold here and haven't started my R in 2 days at the most. I turned it over this morning and got this high pitched noise, like maybe a belt slipping or a bad bearing? The CEL flashed a few times then went away.
I couldn't stick around to check codes or inspect the bay, but what it might be?
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My 2009 with the 3.3 motor will rev up when cold drop to a low idle then surge up again. It will do this until it is warm even when in drive. It never did this before only in the winter it would start at fast idle for a minute then drop to normal idle. There are no codes or lights, what would cause this?
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Yesterday when I started my car the coolant temp was near 100 (from a previous drive several hours prior) and it was over 80 degrees outside, yet the car went into high idle mode as though it was cold outside. It does this sometimes, but not always, and if I dont let it idle down and just start driving, it'll stay in high idle for a long time (i.e. even after a couple miles of driving, if I put it in neutral it'll rev back up to high idle).
Air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor are working properly, but it doesn't seem like a normal thing to do, but its done it for years. Anything else that might cause it, or any way to stop it?
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I recently got my Mk7 1.8T manual brand new and have been wondering about the long cold start idle. It usually takes around a minute or two before the revs drop below 1000. Coming from a '04 Mercedes and '11 TDI Jetta, I can say those cars the idles dropped much faster. Is this normal with the golf?
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just got my R32 a year and 3 months ago and love it. I came across my first issue though a couple months ago, when i start my car on cold starts before it would of course go to the cold start mode at over 1,000 rpm's before going back down after 30 seconds and depending on the weather i'd let it warm up anywhere from 5-15 minutes.
Well a couple months ago my car wouldn't do its normal cold start routine, i'd turn it and it made its loud pitch as if it was going to do the cold start and it just immediately went down to regular idle skipping the warm up, it did this for a week before i got it checked out. I went to a shop by me and he said that it might be a thermostat sensor so i replaced it and nothing. So he then pulled my throttle body off cleaned it did the whole calibration thing or whatever its called that you have to do when unplugging them and it went back to normal!!! Well after a month (two weeks ago) its doing it again. Then he told me it might be that the throttle body has some condensation frozen and isn't allowing the throttle to open like it needs too.
I live in a suburb 20 minutes north of chicago and i don't drive the car if it snows, i keep it in my garage. I have a CAI installed on the car that i put on back in March of 09 and a flapper that i just permanently opened with an IV clamp. So i don't have any big modification on the car...yet
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So I got a check engine light... did a scan and it said something about, "Cold Start Idle-Control System" and then it also has misfires on all of the cylinders and that it is running too lean.
I automatically went to check the intake, took it apart and the rubber coupler that connects the MAF sensor to the stage 2 pipe has a rip in it.
Now I'm freaking out thinking that maybe water... dust... dirt... has gotten into the engine.
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I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 150,000 miles that is meticulously maintained. This past winter (as far as winter goes in San Diego) the engine would run rough and the rpm's would drop close to stalling when stopping at a light for the first 2 or 3 miles. After that the engine has warmed and there is no problem. Could this be the intake gaskets needing replacement. This only happens on a cool or damp, rainly morning.
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I'm not sure if this qualifies for a "cold start" but my 1.8T sounds imperfect when I start it for the first time of the day. It'll rev around 1200 RPM, instead of the normal 800RPM idle if I start it after it had recently been turned off for a short period.
It sounds almost like my old car that had an exhaust leak, but not as obnoxious. When it settles back down to 800RPM it really purrs and sounds great. Is this normal?
2003 Wolfsburg Jetta 1.8T, not sure if I wrote that in my profile yet. 41k miles and recently serviced for 40k milage. Has sounded this way before and after the service.
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I've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
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I've noticed on first start up the RPMs go as high as 3000 for a couple of seconds and then drop to normal even at 68' degrees,is that normal? because if it is what will aspect when the temperature drops to 20 or even lower.It is a 2.5 liter 4.
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When idle, and especially when cold, my R engine tends to do some popping, I can see the RPM drop slightly when this happens and can also hear and feel it in the car and from the engine and exhaust. This only happens when idle, I have no other issues, no drop in performance and no CEL.
It actually has done this for a while now but barely noticeable. Now since 2 weeks it has gone worse to the level of being annoying. What this may be ? Injectors maybe ?
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I've made posts about a rough idle before now I noticed something new about it. I noticed when I approach a red light the vibrations don't start immediately. They start as soon as the RPMS would drop a little. They stay above 500 but it seems like it's below 750. As if the engine is slightly starved from power? Now i'm wondering if it could be related to another problem I have.
Whenever I start the car, the battery light flickers until the car is started all the way. This is on a 2007 Camry 4 cylinder. So far everything iv'e done is: New NGK Spark Plugs, NEW OEM mounts (all 4) Seafoamed the engine, Seafoamed the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, New air filter, and cleaned the air filter box, replaced the PCV Vlave, new belt, new alternator (duralast), and a new battery (from autozone).
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I have had my golf R for 7 months now and ever sense I got tuned I have had this little issue. Besides this the car is amazing but ever now and then the car while coming to a stop and put it in natural to come to a stop the idle will go to 500 then come back up to 1200 then rest at 800. I'm getting my PCV replaced tomorrow. I'm um stage 2 tune fully loaded with Bsh intake full 3" exhaust.
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I have a 2000 Subaru Legacy Outback with 208,000 miles. Last Oct I had a complete tune up done on it: fluids, filters, spark plugs, etc. Ever since then, the gas mileage has dropped from getting around 390-400 miles off a full tank to 290-300 miles off a full tank. I have tried carburetor and fuel injector cleaners and nothing is working. At this same time, it also started idling at 1750 rpms every time I start it, dropping down to around 750-900 rpms after I put it in gear. The timing system was replaced about 7 months earlier. So far the repair shops can't find anything wrong. I also just had the transmission rebuilt and it's still idling fast.
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So recently my water pump failed so i did the pump, timing belt, and thermostat. While putting the alternator back in a may have broken a few fins on the alt. case. Anyways I was ripping it a bit today only a day after stuff done and the battery light came on. The car is warmed up and the idle drop a few hundred rpm and then back up. The headlights dim as well. and come back up with rpm. Even when I hod the pedal steady at 2k rpm itll still dip and come back up...thinking its an alt but is that really a symptom of a bad alt? I was also thinking I didn't tighten the alt bolt down alt the way or fuses or something so checking that but I am almost positive it's all tight down.
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