I have had my golf R for 7 months now and ever sense I got tuned I have had this little issue. Besides this the car is amazing but ever now and then the car while coming to a stop and put it in natural to come to a stop the idle will go to 500 then come back up to 1200 then rest at 800. I'm getting my PCV replaced tomorrow. I'm um stage 2 tune fully loaded with Bsh intake full 3" exhaust.
View 4 Replies 2004 W12 nearing 78k miles
Recently I've been experiencing a strange voltage drop when coming to a stop. The voltage gauge on the dash cluster indicates a solid 14v when in drive however when I come to stop (still in drive) the voltage will slowly drop to 12v suggesting the alternator is no longer charging the battery or something.
I've read other places that there can sometimes be issues with the battery controller, would this be a potential symptom of that? I've never had a dead battery or anything like that. I also installed HID fog lights recently which could be related to this issue, considering removing them entirely..
I'm also wondering if it could be related to a strange clicking noise coming from the engine bay somewhere, possibly my alternator is dying, plastic guides getting worn on the timing chain?
I'm hoping this is a simple case of needing the serpentine belt to be replaced and "slipping" when at a stop or something. Is there any way to examine the belt without moving the bumper to the service position?
I have an '01 Impala, 3.8 engine with 200k miles. Whenever the engine idles, at a stop, or in a parking spot, the idle will drop, then the car will stall. It will start right back up, but unless you are actively pressing the accelerator, the same thing occurs. There's no sputtering or performance issues, and nothing to indicate that it's about to stall. I've replaced the IAC valve, AND the EGR valve. Still having the same issue.
View 5 Replies1997 escort lx wagon, manual, 173,000 miles... When I stop at a red light or stop sign, it takes 10-15 seconds for the idle to drop down to where it should be, and when I push clutch in to shift gears it doesn't drop down, it stays where it is. No codes are coming up. I'm thinking IAC....
View 9 RepliesI have a code scanner which indicated that I should change the MAP sensor. I did that, and just for fun changed the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. Now the idle is extremely smooth in park or neutral, but once I'm in a moving gear it's up to the same shenanigans, antics and tomfoolery I described in my original post: 96 Dakota SLT idles rough & stalls. So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drivebelt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
View 1 RepliesI notice on my golf tsi 2015, there is a weird sound coming from the hood. It could be the engine or something? This is not the first time I heard this thing.
View 5 RepliesI've had this weird noise coming from the driver side front (i'm guessing inside the engine bay) for the past month now. It started ever since hitting a bad pothole that wasn't avoidable and couldn't see very well during one of the nasty winter storms we got here in PA. Ever since the steering has felt off, like just not all there anymore. Over the smallest of bumps it makes this noise. Extremely aggravating for me since I try to take great care of the car and keep everything tight and new feeling. Since I don't know how to work on newer cars (only mk3 and lower) I have no clue what to do to check... I've had it at the dealership a few times to report the noise, 2 of the times they just took it for a drive around the area and back and each time the tech said he didn't hear a noise (of course).
Roughly 15k miles on the car currently
Noise started around 12-13k
Also recently noticed that only coming from the same side, the shock over big bumps makes squishy noises, as if it were blown or something...
People have suggested that it could be the sway bar, tie rods, end links, bushings, anything. I personally think it's the strut tower bushing or bearing, but again, I'm not much of a newer car mechanic.
Pics of car ...
When I accelerate as the car is going to shift, there is a weird noise coming from the back area. It sounds as if it were a bunch of walnut shells being crushed and swished in a coffee can. Is that something that sounds like it could be normal? Today was the first time I drove with the windows down and heard it. I'm wondering if it has always been there... it sounds very loud though. It echos very loudly back into the car from nearby things as I drive by... It sounds to me a lot like when you would take a wind up toy past it's point were you weren't supposed to...
View 13 RepliesI have weird noise and from just a quick inspection of the car, I don't even know where to start to inspect...
Current setup:
30,000 km
stock clutch
stage 1+ Unitronic @ 5000km (1 track day)
stage 2 w/ hpfp Unitronic @ 27000km (1 recent track day, drove it hard but not prolonged, perhaps 20-25km on a 1km course over 2 hours at max)
VW v2 (~15000km)
drivetrain taken out to install DP @ 25000km.
H&R Rear Sway (setting: stiff)
I feel a weird 'clink' as I turn, and via multiple observations here are the only times I've found it semi-repeatable.
- heavy hard turns (only had a few instances where i could try this out and not 100% repeatable)
- slowly pulling out of a parking spot (turn radius on the steering wheel is more than 50% of a turn) - usually turning left (repeated a couple of times now)
- turning into a driveway (mini bump) @ less than 20km/h
- usually right turn more often then left does this appear
Also, its the noise is coming from the driver side wheel and sometimes right above the drivetrain. this can also be felt if my clutch is semi-engaged (or when i have my foot on the pedal). I have hoisted up my car to do a quick visual inspection (sadly didn't pay attention to the drive train /shaft). but found nothing suspicious (keep in mind it was relatively quick as the shop was closing). one thing i found that was loose and thought was the culprit was a plastic arm with a metallic tube that came off on the driver's side rear control arm .
So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
View 1 RepliesWhen idle, and especially when cold, my R engine tends to do some popping, I can see the RPM drop slightly when this happens and can also hear and feel it in the car and from the engine and exhaust. This only happens when idle, I have no other issues, no drop in performance and no CEL.
It actually has done this for a while now but barely noticeable. Now since 2 weeks it has gone worse to the level of being annoying. What this may be ? Injectors maybe ?
I picked up my latest R back in April - 3 owner, 33K mile car - as far as I know no tune. The previous owner owned the car for the previous 9 years and kept it stock.
The issue: If the car sits for more than one day (I work form home so this happens a lot) upon initial start up it will start and idle at 800 RPM and then drop a little from there once warmed up. Now if the car sits for less than a day, it will cold start as it should - high idle then a gradual drop.
So recently my water pump failed so i did the pump, timing belt, and thermostat. While putting the alternator back in a may have broken a few fins on the alt. case. Anyways I was ripping it a bit today only a day after stuff done and the battery light came on. The car is warmed up and the idle drop a few hundred rpm and then back up. The headlights dim as well. and come back up with rpm. Even when I hod the pedal steady at 2k rpm itll still dip and come back up...thinking its an alt but is that really a symptom of a bad alt? I was also thinking I didn't tighten the alt bolt down alt the way or fuses or something so checking that but I am almost positive it's all tight down.
View 9 RepliesWell i have a 1992 for explorer 4.0 all lights seem to dim kinda surging at idle or coming to a stop. Has new battery, battery cables nice and tight new alternator. My Volt gauge on my cluster jumps from 12 to 14 volts. battery light flashes seems to be getting worse. Was having similar issue about 1 year ago found a injector giving up. Replaced injector and worked good for a while. Wondering is it common to have that issue with injectors causing these issues. Doesn't seem likes its missing firing.
View 1 RepliesJust purchased a 99 passat v6 and it has a low idle surge and stalls when coming to a stop.It runs fine until it heats up about 15 min. then it surges up and down and stalls.
View 1 RepliesLike the title says, 89 Chevy G20 V8 5.7l. When coming to a stop or in idle while in drive the van will shut off. Here are the symptoms.1. When driving below 10MPH the oil pressure gauge will drop to 0 and then the van shuts off.2. When starting the van a nice white plume of smoke comes out of the exhaust.3. Van had been chugging a bit when stopped and the AC was on. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator today thinking that possibly the engine was getting flooded when slowing down, but that did not fix the problem.
View 7 Replies2009 Ford Explorer - 6cyl -4L - 36K miles. This morning driving it, I came to a stop sign and as I was braking, the idle starting going up (and up and up) to the point where I had to shut off the engine. When I restarted it, everything was fine and of course, I can't reproduce this. I have the shop manual and couldn't find an IAC valve on this vehicle which I'm assuming it doesn't have. I'm sure I didn't accidentally hit the gas (as opposed to the brake which I know I was pressing down on when it was happening). Years ago I had a different Ford which had the exact same symptom and replacing the IAC solve the problem.
View 3 RepliesMy car makes a weird noise/feel when I stop at lights or when we are going very slowly-- its like some motor inside is spinning weirdly-- off kilter-like. This only happens when in drive or reverse; when in neutral and I rev the engine, it doesn't happen. This used to happen only when I drove for long times (3 hours maybe)--and I often could "fix" this by just letting the car rest for half and hour. Now it is happening just after 40 mins of driving. My car is a 99 Toyota V6 Camry.
View 19 Repliesive actually owned 4 volkswagens one of which was a 2002 big turbo gti which made 325whp..... so now i have a 2005 Jetta GLI with about 41k on it. This car has a serious idle problem. Start up is fine and it runs great and hits boost perfect. It has a 6 speed, APR chip intake, forge DV, and DP. When i come to a traffic light and come to a complete stop after about 10 seconds it hiccups and the idle drops to abou 600 and then back up to normal idle. It will also do it if i just leave the car running in neutral it will randomly stutter. I have new spark plugs and new fuel injectors and i only use 93.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 f-150 4x4 4.6 5spd manual 180,000 miles on the clock. My question is, when coming to a stop i push the clutch in an the idle hangs at about twice what it should be until i come to a complete stop then it drops to normal. It's not like somethings sticking cause it will stay at the high idle as long as were rolling but as soon as the wheels stop turning it drops down.
View 2 RepliesFor the life of me I can't figure out what is causing this smell. Its got a little over 65k miles and for whatever reason when I'm driving at a steady 70-75mph on the highway I get this garbage like smell that can last between 2-6 sec or so with or without the a/c on. It appears to have no effect on the car though. I'm not overheating, I'm not losing any power from the motor, my clutch is still very smooth and no signs of slipping, my idle is solid as a rock, and I can't find any fluids leaking at all. It does seem to happen more frequently as the outside temperature increases and it is a very potent smell. I just can't find the source. It has only happened while I'm on the highway and have had absolutely zero luck finding that same smell when I've got it parked with the hood up.
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