Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Huge Delay In Acceleration
Aug 1, 2013
I drive a 2010 Golf GTI 6 dsg and its has some performance problems - it is the not responsive huge delay in acceleration sometimes doesn't even push out the turbo, just gives me a high raw with low output. Even at robots its take a while to respond after I have put my foot down? I have taken it back to the dealership and they tell me everything is fine - they changed the DV valves and upgraded the software but the wheels are more powerfull and the output is still low.
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I have a fleeting issue that of course only happens on rare occasions. I have a 2011 Elantra Limited. I drive it pretty easy. On three different occasions, when I really had to get on it to get into traffic, I have left a huge plume of smoke. From what I can tell it's darker in color, but it's been usually evening so I can't really tell. If I punch it again, it's fine. I have mentioned to the dealer each time and they say nothing shows amiss.
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I am a first time owner of a 2015 VW Golf TSI and TDI, previously drove an Acura RSX.
I am noticing on both cars, more so in the TSI, that off a dead stop, when I push the gas pedal there is a hesitation/acceleration delay that I am not used to.
Is this normal? I just want to make sure that nothing is wrong with my cars as I am not well versed in this stuff.
Also, if it is normal, what is the cause behind this? and can it be modified to remove this lag?
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Situation: In automatic, coming off say a highway in the 30 to 50 km's (20 mph) range and then trying to accelerate quickly but there is a 1-2 second pause/delay/lag before it kicks in and launches.
It is not 100% consistent but it happens often enough to bother me.
Experience with this issue? What is the cause and is there a fix?
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Our manual transmission 2000 Jetta's acceleration has begun acting weird. You raise the clutch and give it some gas, but the engine revs and there is a delay before it "catches" and begins to propel the car. What's going on?
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I currently own a Toyota Corolla VVTI 1.8 2009 GLI. I have been racing this car here at our auto drome for over a year. Last race it starting giving me real bad issues with shifting on the track. I can be a 5,900 RPM and shift to a higher gear and the car will choke and drown and it takes forever to recognize I'm accelerating. I know this is because of the computer and the electronic accelerator it comes with ( I can't remember it's name in English). My gas pedal is Denso and I understand there is an adaption that can be done to the cable to trick the computer.
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I've been noticing over the past couple years that sometimes when I accelerate, there's a slight delay between the time I press my foot down on the pedal and when acceleration actually happens. From reading other threads it would seem that the most common fix is to re-flash the ECU. I bought a DiabloSport Predator tuner along with a CAI a while back to improve performance/gas mileage and I was wondering if there's a way I can use the tuner to re-flash.
If not, do most ford repair shops already carry these? I don't want to buy a flash programmer. Also, if the shop does carry this type of an item, what is the average cost to get it re-flashed?
I own an '04 F150 XLT 5.4l.
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It is 10 degrees now (-12 C). I softly engaged the clutch and noticed the car wasn't moving. I tapped on the gas lightly and the car was trying to move, but couldn't. I finally gave it a lot of gas and there was a huge POP sound. When I park my car, I leave e-brake engaged. Are brakes suppose to stick that bad in cold weather? The Pop sounded like a .45 Pistol!!
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My car just turned 20k miles. I haven't abused it and rarely tach it over 4k. I needed to cross a lane in heavy traffic so I put my foot into it, it tached up to maybe 6grand, dropped a gear or so and out the tail pipe comes a huge cloud of smoke. I mean huge. Looked like it burnt a quart of oil in a second. I had just changed the oil a few days before. Mobil full syn. I know the lvl was correct because i checked it the day after i changed it.
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For about the last two months I've noticed a significant drop in my gas mileage, I usually average anywhere from 20-26mpg depending how I drive, but lately even if I am cruising with the windows up no ac nothing I can't get better than about 18mpg.
Car has about 26xxx miles, evoms intake (which I cleaned out the filter thinking that may have been it) EJ exhaust and just got REVO flashed, but my mileage has been suffering prior to that.
I'm going to the dealer tomorrow for an oil change and spark plug replacement thinking maybe thats it, I've already had the recall done, and always use 91 octane (social area) what it may be?
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Ok, here's the situation... (Elantra GLS - Automatic)
I was at a 4-way stop sign. No other cars were around so I accelerated. Then suddenly, I hear and see a car coming at me REALLY fast, and well, I panicked. I floored the throttle (almost literally), and I heard something popping or maybe it was a farting sound... It happened so fast that I don't remember clearly...
Then behind me was a HUGE cloud of smoke behind me. I mean really, it covered up the whole street. It was 10 PM, so I couldn't really tell what color it was, but it seemed to be white... So I turned off my car. Checked the engine, no smoke from the engine. I started it up again, and instead to revving to about 2000 rpm at start up like it always does, it only went to about 1000, and more smoke was flushed out the exhaust.
I was close to home, and with no 24-hour mechanic shop around me, I drove home. As I drove home, I had quite a bit of smoke trail behind me which scared me through out the whole 2 minutes of driving. I got home, and I checked the exhaust again, but there was no more smoke. However, a burning smell lingered around the exhaust.
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Came home in the R32 tonight to an awful noise.. Pulled the drivers rear wheel off and pulled a small rock out from between the rotor and dust cap however in doing so, discovered a huge crack in the driveshaft! This is about 2" long... How critical is this to be repaired and is it covered under warranty at 75k mi???
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I drive a manual 2001 vr6 jetta. I drove through a huge puddle on accident. It was still pouring and I couldn't see it, plus I've never seen this section of road flood before. Anyway my car is lowered and I have a CAI. I sucked up water, hydrolocked the car and it bogged down and died.
The next day I got it towed home, took out the plugs and did an oil change(water came out for about 5 seconds followed by the oil) and got a new air filter. I then cranked the engine blowing most of the water out of my cylinders then sprayed starter fluid in the cylinders let it sit for about an hour and cranked again. Put it all back together started it up and it sounded fine. I just let it idle until it got to running temp then shut it off. Came out the next morning started it up let it idle to running temp again shut it off then went to pull the drain plug to see if I could get anymore water out and all I saw was cappuccino colored oil. So I did another oil change and so far it has stayed a nice golden amber color.
Everything seems to be fine other than my EPC light is on. My ASR light is on too right from startup and pushing the button does nothing. I also have a CEL for emissions workshop(before this instance) but that's just an O2 sensor. And lastly it's been hard to shift into 3rd and 4th.
I don't have any problems with acceleration or surging idle or bogging down. The only things I actually notice are the trans issue and not being able to turn on and off my ASR.
Could I have water in the trans? What can I do to fix this? I was planning on doing a fluid change. I'm completely lost with the ASR problem. Everything I've read so far I don't fit in the norm of problems. EPC? No symptoms at all just a light.
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I just installed Black Forest Industries Torque Arm insert for the 09+ TSI (He said TDI's work too). Anyways the vibration noise is unbearable with the windows up, it is producing this sound frequency/ pressure that gives you an instant migraine. I am a mechanic and I followed the instructions. You really can not keep the car at idle or you head will explode. If you bring the rpm's up to 1000 its all good as gravy.
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I have a 2013 Elantra w/tech pkg (bought brand new) and I have about 106k miles on it. Today I noticed this strange issue where when I let off the gas, it's like the engine doesn't notice right away and continues to apply power. It's only a delay for about a second or so, but it's noticeable enough that I'm writing this. It's really odd and I don't know what to make of it.
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My VW Golf TDI 2000 has 236,000 miles on it. The other day my husband jumped on the accelerator to merge onto the freeway, and it let out a huge black cloud of smoke. Wow, we thought. Weird. Impressive. Uh oh. Then we realized it was making HUGE diesel engine noises, which just got louder by the next day. Windows down, you can't hear yourself think. It also won't accelerate past 50 mph. We've spent so much money and time fixing this car. Would love to know what might be wrong this time. Just moved, no trusted mechanics who we can call. Might we have to donate it to public radio and just be done with it? Or something my husband can repair with the manual?
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I'm getting pretty significant throttle response delay in my 2013 Elantra w/ Tech. It's pretty egregious in stop-and-go traffic when I attempt to accelerate, wait a second before my car responds, and then get jerked forward, only to stop a second later.
I emailed Hyundai and was told to speak to the dealership. I called up the dealership and they had no idea what I was talking about. I emailed another local dealership, and they didn't get back to me. Pretty annoyed at this point.
I did a search on this forum and found some threads discussing resetting the throttle system by resetting the ECM. Wasn't too confident in doing that myself and I didn't want to mess up my car's computer system at all. I'd like the dealership to take care of this under warranty, but if they haven't heard anything about this, then I'm not sure how to proceed. What my next move should be?
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Picked up the car 5 days ago but noticed when I press the clutch and rev the engine, there's a throttle delay/hesitation and a simultaneous sound like "psshht". The sound is almost like when you're shifting a turbo car with a blow off valve.
Other than that the car is great. 2012 Elantra GL manual ...
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I have a strange issue that just started happening. A whirring sound comes from the vent in the back seat I believe which sounds like escaping Air. Not like the last 2 years I've owned it. At the same time I noticed that the accelerator now takes a second to engage after I hit the pedal from a stop every time. Furthermore the engine seems to be over revving, as if engine braking. I've restarted the car a few times. I've checked all the fluid levels.
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Just this past weekend my wife got her 2010 Golf Highline with the 6-speed tiptronic transmission. Just a quick question about the gas pedal. when it is on "D" it really feels heavy and sluggish when going from full stop to acceleration. the pedal feels so hard and when you step on it feels like its not going at all. but as soon as it goes on 3rd everything seems ok. and then we tried putting it into "S" (sports) mode and everything was really good and quick. but when on this mode you need to be really hard on the gas pedal for it to run smooth. so i guess my question is...is it really like that when driving in the "D" mode??
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GTI with DSG has delay in downshift (in D mode), especially with lower gears and speeds. I find it very annoying when I try to suddenly accelerate and the car does not move for few seconds-- RPMs go high up, engine is making noise but car does not move immediately. I have noticed this mostly in traffic when i need to change a lane and accelerate right away.
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