Golf/GTI VI :: Car Randomly Losing Power / Throttle
Dec 12, 2014
Over the past month I've had an issue with my car randomly losing power/losing throttle. When this happens the car acts as if its lost power, and I have no throttle at all. That said everything electronic on the car is still on in terms of radio, heat, seat warmers, low beams; but on the dash the battery indicator is illuminated. The way I've found to "fix"this is either to brake and pull over and put the car in park and restart it, or while moving shift into neutral and push the key forward to "start" the car again. I've also had this happen back to back, meaning that I restart the car and when I go to accelerate the throttle cuts out and the car acts in the same fashion where it dies and I have to restart it again. The times this has happened there hasn't been any sort of common factor attributed to it and honestly I'm at a loss for what could be causing the issue. The car does have an APR stage 2 tune but other than that nothing electronic really done to it.
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I have an 07 explorer that has developed an new problem. While driving, I lose all throttle, regardless of whether I'm accelerating or just cruising along. I've checked the vacuum lines and fuels filter and pump to no avail. It. Has progressed from a once a week to the point that it's not drivable.
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Was driving one day, and when I came to a stop sign, the car just died.. I couldn't start it up, so I pushed it to the side of the road.. I tried to turn the key again, and it fired right up... No issues for about a week, but then I came outside one morning, and the car was completely dead. No interior lights, dash wouldn't light up, nothing. (no cranking noise when you try to turn the key) I assumed it was because the battery was old, and the car had just been sitting there for about a week without being started up. I was about to give it a jump, but when I opened the door, the lights came on. I put the key in the ignition, the dash lit up, and the car fired right up.. No issues for about a week, until again, came outside, car was completely dead..
I used my other car to run up to the store, and when I came back, decided I would try to start up the DeVille again. Randomly, upon opening the door, the cabin lights lit up, and sure enough, car fired right up... no one had touched the car while I was gone.. I drove the car up to a shop near my house, where they tested the battery, which tested good. Terminals are all clean, and he made note that the ground connection to the car was also firm and clean. He offered to run a diagnostic the following Tuesday for $125. I returned home, drove the car once more over the weekend, but when I went to start the car Monday, it was again, completely dead. It's been over a week now, and I haven't been fortunate enough to get it to start. I again tried this morning in hopes that I would get lucky, but it's still completely dead.
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Diagnosing our 2006 Hyundai Sonata.....2.4 L engine....automatic.
While cruising along, about 40mph and up I guess...when traveling at a steady throttle and engine speed... if you ever so slightly give it more gas, sometimes it will act as though it is losing power for a second and then kick back in.....but revs will stay up....
I was thinking either throttle position sensor or (gasp) transmission.....it doesn't really feel like a slipping tranny....but wondering if it is issues with the overdrive...
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My 2002 GT 3.8 with 157,000mi has recently and randomly been losing total electrical power after starting the engine. Engine fires like a champ then after 2-3 seconds will completely die- no engine, no lights, no radio, no locks, nada. The key will be stuck in the ignition and can remove it after playing with it. After a time that I haven't been able to determine, electrical power will be restored after I reinsert the key. Sometimes she will stay running after restarting: sometimes not. But she never hesitates to start.
After the first occurrence she ran fine for 3 days but did notice the driver information center would flicker. It never went completely dark, but go from bright to dim- which has previously never happened.
The car has been parked outside and it has been raining quite a bit- I did notice a few times there has been water on the passenger side floor. I had this problem years ago and it was supposed to have been fixed at the shop.
Also of note: I've had the known GP ignition lock issue where the key will not release for the past 3 years. Just been using a pen to manually release the lock from the bottom of the steering column. Don't think it's a battery problem as it is less than 2 months old.
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Recently my car a 01 echo has been randomly losing power and accelerating slowing. Sometimes if I let off on the gas pedal and reapply it, it clears up and runs fines. There are no check engine lights and no codes stored. car has 213k miles on it.
I had replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, both o2 sensors and cat, have noticed a break behind the resonator could this be causing it?
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Ok I've got this 98 Ranger with the 2.5L and the 4r44e automatic. The engine is used and has about 100,000 miles now and is it a good state of tune - so I think. The transmission was a remanufactured I bought a few years ago that was built with the shift improver kit, Kevlar bands, extra planetaries, 4wd pan, and external cooler. It's now got 92,000 miles on it and it's been serviced every 30,000 with a fresh 4wd filter and Mercon V fluid. It's outlasted the last 3 transmission I've had in my Ranger. I've got 315,000 miles on the body. For awhile it was randomly losing power while driving like it wouldn't shift, almost like it dropped a couple cylinders, then as you kept your foot on the gas it would recover and rev up and shift.
Then sometimes randomly at stoplights it would shake at a stop and have no power at take off until it hits 30-40 mph. Sounds like a converter, is what I thought. But now it's doing it more often but not the shaking at stoplights as much as randomly losing power while driving normal speeds. Last night I drove it about 50 miles after doing a fresh filter and fluid change and this time it did it so much it threw a code up P1131. Even though that's a O2 sensor code, could it be hidden by a transmission valve body problem? One transmission shop said it could be a valve hanging up just by me describing it to him. Could this be ignition or fuel related or is it all tied in with the transmission problem, if it is even a transmission problem?
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So I bought a used Accent last July (40k miles), and recently after I started to randomly lose my first gear about a month or so from driving it. Whenever I stop at a light the RPM will hover over one, but not go down. I thought at first it was some weird thing with the sensors as it only happened when I was low on gas, however now it does it every time I drive. I notice a lurch forward right before it does this.
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The thing just randomly will dump it's station preset memory and I'll turn the car on and all my stations will be gone and replaced with 184 (weather, i think). Everything else is fine, FM is fine, and it remembers everything else... it just loses SR1/SR2 presets. Very odd.
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I have a 3inch cat back exhaust, cold air intake, and a stage 1 apr tune. I just installed a front mount intercooler. When I spool my turbo in 1st gear the car loses all power at 4 grand and just bogs out after that. Rpms keep climbing but the speed doesn't move. What's going on?!
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I have a 99 Jetta MK4 2.0L. I purchased it last month and have been having issues since.
First it was the coilpack that made my engine bog.. (at the time, my transmission was also clunking into gear, getting stuck in gears etc.) changed coilpack and it went away.
Then I had issues where the car would turn, but not start. Changed the Crankshaft Position sensor.
All was good again, then my transmission started to do the clunking (but no getting stuck in gear) and then i started losing power during takeoff.
Then it got really bad, I got home and tried to start it up again, i can floor it on the gas and the car will studder and bog out for a good 3 seconds, and then slowly accelerate into gear.
Some points i was in neutral trying to rev and it was bogging then also.
Btw, coilpacks were changed, all o2 sensors were changed, and the spark plugs have been done recently. Pulled codes,
- P0422 Main catalyst efficiency below threshold
- P0103 Mass or volume air flow circuit high input
- P1127 Long term fuel trim be system too rich
- P0715 Turbine/input shift speed sensor circuit
Also tested driving again, bogged out initially then started to move. Checked if i could get past 40km/hr and i hit 60km/h. After driving a little bit it seemed to be a little bit more responsive, but still boggy.
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I got vw golf 2000 tdi , I never had a problem with it, the other day I was driving on high speed just about to over take my car slow dawn it was feel like there no turbo, in low gears is fine but if u go over 70 mph it won't go, but soon is u switch off the engine and start again it will come back to normal ??
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I just passed 3k miles on the OD. Lately, when I'm driving, I'll randomly feel the engine lose power for a split second. It just cuts out and then comes right back. Sometimes it's fairly quick, others it's very noticeable. I buy fuel from good gas stations, and the dealership couldn't find anything and also said they'd never heard of this issue.
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R32 has 29,000 miles. I live at 8000ft. Recently, my R, when traveling back from sea level, starts to have what seems like fueling issues at around 7000ft. These take place by the car being unable to maintain a steady speed and then losing power. Once power falls you can press on accelerator and then will pick up again and accelerate through the gears until you need to back of the accelerator, then the same problem will happen... Once home after lurching around like a kangaroo the car will be fine if switched off and then left for an hour before driving again.
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I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune. Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi. Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slow and boost won't work. I'm not sure what else I should get to restore my car to perform fully.
I'm currently on the factory ko3 turbo and the previous owner had nitrous hookups and lines to the motor.
I'm already 3k into fixing it. Needed new shift cables and a fresh transmission
I'm hoping to push about 250hp maybe 300hp
The boost problem is fixed once I turn the car off and back on. I just want it to work again without having to spend an arm and leg on parts and labor. My mechanic works at Volkswagen dealership. But isn't allowed to work on my car due to dealership policies about working on vehicles older than 10 years old. The guy who tuned my car professionally at an apr shop told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that) for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start.
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I have a 2005 Volkswagen GTI with 80k miles. Just yesterday I went to school and the car drove fine. But when I came back and tried to start my car, it stalled out after a few seconds. Now I thought this was a bad fuel pump until I checked it and found that the fuel pump wasn't receiving any power. I checked the fuse and it was intact. So then I went to check the relay and found that if I unplug the relay and plug it back in, the fuel pump momentarily receives power for about 2 seconds then nothing. Any clue what the interference could be?
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I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune...
Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi
Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slowe and boost won't work
The guy told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that)for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start. I am new to this.
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I have a 06 f350 6.0. I'm losing hear at times. My temp gauge is right in the middle like always. As soon as I let off he throttle or come to a stop the heat turns cold and blows out cold air!
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The throttle moves by itself, and the arrow of the temp indicator goes up and down randomly. Sometimes it won't start, or starts and then dies. The check engine light is not on, so my mechanic says he doesn't know what to fix and it might be the computer and I have to take it to the dealer.Well, there is no Saturn dealer, so I'm taking it to a Chevy dealer that is doing Saturn repairs. What I might expect?I just had a new air intact put in and a throttle sensor about a year ago.The antifreeze was recently flushed. 1997 Saturn wagon ...
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I have the following code's P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306
I have change all spark plug and coil and it still their.
As soon as i go off throttle the check engine start flashing and then when I go on throttle again the car is jerking and got no power.
After a time the check engine light stay on full time and I have big power loss.
I have check for leaks spraying start pilot on every intake junction to see if I had a leak ( engine should rev from sucking start pilot) doesn't seams that I got a leak.
So I'm thinking of the following:
- Bad Maf
- Bad fuel pump
- Bad driveter valve
- injector. But 6 failing at same time would be strange
- cam sensor
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I have just taken a red mk4 r32 home. It feels really down on power and throttle is really snappy when try to take off.
If im going along at any speed say 20-50mph and lift the throttle off it gets a quick burst of acceleration. I think its had a Celtic remap if that means anything. also gets some crackling and popping even with the cats still on it.
Also cleaned the throttle body made no difference. I am also sure i can hear a vacuum leak when going through streets. Just replaced MAF and Lambda sensor. no other codes coming up on diagnostics.
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