Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Transmission Clunking - Losing Power During Takeoff
Sep 15, 2016
I have a 99 Jetta MK4 2.0L. I purchased it last month and have been having issues since.
First it was the coilpack that made my engine bog.. (at the time, my transmission was also clunking into gear, getting stuck in gears etc.) changed coilpack and it went away.
Then I had issues where the car would turn, but not start. Changed the Crankshaft Position sensor.
All was good again, then my transmission started to do the clunking (but no getting stuck in gear) and then i started losing power during takeoff.
Then it got really bad, I got home and tried to start it up again, i can floor it on the gas and the car will studder and bog out for a good 3 seconds, and then slowly accelerate into gear.
Some points i was in neutral trying to rev and it was bogging then also.
Btw, coilpacks were changed, all o2 sensors were changed, and the spark plugs have been done recently. Pulled codes,
- P0422 Main catalyst efficiency below threshold
- P0103 Mass or volume air flow circuit high input
- P1127 Long term fuel trim be system too rich
- P0715 Turbine/input shift speed sensor circuit
Also tested driving again, bogged out initially then started to move. Checked if i could get past 40km/hr and i hit 60km/h. After driving a little bit it seemed to be a little bit more responsive, but still boggy.
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I have a 3inch cat back exhaust, cold air intake, and a stage 1 apr tune. I just installed a front mount intercooler. When I spool my turbo in 1st gear the car loses all power at 4 grand and just bogs out after that. Rpms keep climbing but the speed doesn't move. What's going on?!
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I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune. Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi. Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slow and boost won't work. I'm not sure what else I should get to restore my car to perform fully.
I'm currently on the factory ko3 turbo and the previous owner had nitrous hookups and lines to the motor.
I'm already 3k into fixing it. Needed new shift cables and a fresh transmission
I'm hoping to push about 250hp maybe 300hp
The boost problem is fixed once I turn the car off and back on. I just want it to work again without having to spend an arm and leg on parts and labor. My mechanic works at Volkswagen dealership. But isn't allowed to work on my car due to dealership policies about working on vehicles older than 10 years old. The guy who tuned my car professionally at an apr shop told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that) for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start.
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I have a 2005 Volkswagen GTI with 80k miles. Just yesterday I went to school and the car drove fine. But when I came back and tried to start my car, it stalled out after a few seconds. Now I thought this was a bad fuel pump until I checked it and found that the fuel pump wasn't receiving any power. I checked the fuse and it was intact. So then I went to check the relay and found that if I unplug the relay and plug it back in, the fuel pump momentarily receives power for about 2 seconds then nothing. Any clue what the interference could be?
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I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune...
Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi
Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slowe and boost won't work
The guy told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that)for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start. I am new to this.
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Bought lucas oil additive, but have not used it yet. Waiting to burn some more oil and a lower reading on the dipstick before adding the quart of lucas.
Or should I just oil change with some mobile 1 synthetic 0w-40 work?
Engines around 225k miles on it.
Ones moving I notice no smoke at all. Worn out rings? Valve seals or guides?
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We were flagged down on the highway by a very nice fellow motorist because we were gushing coolant. It was gushing. My passenger was a guy friend who used to work as an aircraft mechanic and works on his own vehicles, so I deferred to his supposedly greater automotive knowledge when he said I didn't need to call a tow truck. We got to within 100 feet of my mechanic (about 5 miles away) when my poor Jeep conked out after losing power and making an increasingly loud clunking noise for the last 500 or so feet. We pushed it in to the auto repair bay. The engine was smoking and would not start. The mechanic replaced a worn out radiator hose, which had become disconnected from the radiator (due to swelling, I think he said?), and the truck runs. There isn't a discernible difference in the engine performance after driving it around town for the day. My question is this: is the engine likely to be FUBAR and am I just playing a waiting game until it croaks?
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2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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05 F-350 6L .. Automatic Transmission
When I got the truck I noticed it would slam hard into reverse. Ever since it is taking longer to engage reverse gear and now I have to rev it to 1000 rpms for it to engage with a hard SLAM.
I also noticed that if I do a fast take off, there is a knocking sound coming from drive shaft/differential area (like knock knock knock knock knock then goes away). Then a slight vibration ending at around 30 kph (~20 MPH). There is also some oil leaking from the transmission. I added some mercon sp yesterday - it was a bit low.
My guess for the knocking and vibration is the center support bearings and U-joints. Transmission??? One thing I know I am going to be banging away at that shaft but the transmission problem really scares me.
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I have a clunking sound coming from the rear of my X when I stop and take off. The sound does not happen until the vehicle has been driven for a few miles. After it has been driven, I will get one clunk when I stop. When I take off I will get one clunk as the vehicle starts to accelerate, and another clunk as I give it a little more gas. What could be the cause of this? I do not get the sound when I shift from park to drive, or drive to reverse.
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Out of the blue, months ago, the A/C quit working. I rarely used it prior so I can't say for sure if it was losing "coolness." It may have been. And other than hearing a slight hum or whine after turning the compressor off, which it has done since almost new everything was fine. Although it did, recently, before the A/C died, begin to overheat while waiting in traffic. Never did it again.
I have not done a bunch of troubleshooting other than adding some refrigerant and monitoring the fans and A/C clutch to see if they cycled, which they did not (assuming I was reading the fan process accurately). The gauge did read low, I filled it to the green zone, the compressor clutch engaged, level dropped, I added, it cycled, then dropped, all the while still blowing hot air. I quit doing that but it remained on the low side of green.
The car has 180k miles and runs great. I'm getting ready to sell her after 11 years but really need the A/C working to get anything out of it in the South.
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I am having a hard time locating a mechanical knock coming from my truck. This is not an engine knock but rather a clunking noise when I come to a slightly abrupt stop and sometimes when I take off or am steering. I have recently replaced my upper and lower ball joints and all the u-joints as well. My truck has a 6" Fabtech Coil over lift and a 3" body lift. The truck is also rather squeaky when going over speed bumps.
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I was driving my r yesterday, cruising down the highway in 6th. I let off the gas and I heard a clunk from the tranny. The shifter moves forward with the noise after I let off the gas pedal. It does it most of the time and I didn't know if this was a problem with all Rs or something mechanically bad.
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Lately I have been noticing clunking and rattling when driving my 2015 DSG GTI. It only happens under very light acceleration in gears 1 & 2, and is far more prominent when going uphill for some reason. I have almost 16k miles and have just been starting to notice the noise recently, and think it has gotten worse. I took it in to VW and replicated the noise for the tech, and showed him the video below. He seemed disinterested, said it was normal, and that it would not be worth going in to mess around with to try and fix/possibly replace the gearbox, as this could not solve anything and create more problems.
He also said not to worry about it because I have 60k on the powertrain warranty (which realistically isn't terribly long). This sound does not seem normal to me and it really annoys/bothers me given the car is only about a year old. The dealership is going to have the regional VWOA rep in so I can replicate the sound for him and it will be his decision whether they will proceed to look into it. I am looking for thoughts, comments, any opinions on this sound. Am I crazy and exaggerating, or should what seems to be my transmission not sound like this? At 30 seconds you can hear the sound far better, and a little later on I stick my phone out the window and you can hear the rattling more clearly.
Note (this gives me a little piece of mind): I asked a sales rep to test drive one of the 2015 GTI's on the lot and when doing this up hill you hear a similar, but significantly less noticeable rattle/clunk.
Link : [URL] ....
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Clunking happening when accelerating and braking, but is not noticeable if I shift without too much kick between 1st and 2nd. Clunking is heard right under my feet and sounds like its dead center in the car. Some slight metal scraping sound can be heard like a bolt is loose (none found).
Replaced: Tie rod assembly, both axles, doggone mount, struts, strut mounts, strut bearings, sway bar bushings.
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At low speed driving and hitting a small bump I hear a clunking noise in the front on both sides. But when driving at faster speeds and hitting a bump it makes no noise at all. I can't seem to figure out what it is.
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I am trying to find origin of clunking noise, but it is difficult to do as there is no visual signs and no excessive movements in any components.
Little bit of details and video. Noise occurs when moving rapidly steering wheel on stationary car with running engine. Not noticeable when at speed. Wheel is not vibrating and cv joints not clicking. Very tiny free movement in steering wheel about 1mm, but I am not sure if that is related maybe a completely different issue there. Mot tester make an advisory note that steering system slightly rough, but its not that useful to find an issue.
[URL] ....
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I have replaced the ball joints(a year and a half ago) and put in the the ecs tuning control arms with the solid bushing. Recently, I have had a clunking sound, from the left wheel, when turning right. Kind of sounds like the ball joints when they were bad. This noise only occurs when I turn right under about 30mph. It also feels like the wheel might be doing a quick "wiggle." Do you think it is the ball joint again? Could a bad wheel bearing be doing this? I have replaced the right wheel bearing, but have not done the left one yet.
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I've been having a problem with a popping/clicking sound coming from my front end for some time now. 2 days ago I replaced the top strut mounts thinking they were worn and this was the source of my problem, however, the noise persists.I have raised the car and have tried to physically move the wheels, up, down, left, right, but I get no play in any direction.
When the sound happens: If I go over small bumps in the road, or depressions, or speed bumps at slow speed I hear what sounds like a metal on metal sound, but muffled, not a clang, but a pop sound. I can induce it by stepping hard on the brakes, as the car lurches forward I get the sound. After stopping, when the weight moves back again I get the sound again.HOWEVER, I do NOT get the sound from acceleration. I have tried putting on the parking break and trying to take off, but I don't get the sound. The sound is their wether or not I'm in gear.
What could this sound be? My possibilities include:T ie-Rods, Axles, Transmission (loose bolts), broken engine mounts, loose subframe, or perhaps my control arm bushings (but they were replaced with poly bushings about 30k miles ago)
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Ok I've got this 98 Ranger with the 2.5L and the 4r44e automatic. The engine is used and has about 100,000 miles now and is it a good state of tune - so I think. The transmission was a remanufactured I bought a few years ago that was built with the shift improver kit, Kevlar bands, extra planetaries, 4wd pan, and external cooler. It's now got 92,000 miles on it and it's been serviced every 30,000 with a fresh 4wd filter and Mercon V fluid. It's outlasted the last 3 transmission I've had in my Ranger. I've got 315,000 miles on the body. For awhile it was randomly losing power while driving like it wouldn't shift, almost like it dropped a couple cylinders, then as you kept your foot on the gas it would recover and rev up and shift.
Then sometimes randomly at stoplights it would shake at a stop and have no power at take off until it hits 30-40 mph. Sounds like a converter, is what I thought. But now it's doing it more often but not the shaking at stoplights as much as randomly losing power while driving normal speeds. Last night I drove it about 50 miles after doing a fresh filter and fluid change and this time it did it so much it threw a code up P1131. Even though that's a O2 sensor code, could it be hidden by a transmission valve body problem? One transmission shop said it could be a valve hanging up just by me describing it to him. Could this be ignition or fuel related or is it all tied in with the transmission problem, if it is even a transmission problem?
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Last Saturday, my mechanic friend and I spent the day installing WRD coils on my 2003 Wolfsburg edition Jetta. Took us longer than we thought but we got it all done and we set them at 3/4 max for lowness. I don't want to go any lower and I will probably raise a little bit soon.
Anyways, when I started driving I noticed a rear clunking sound, it's especially noticeable at slower speeds. Every single tiny little bump and sounds like someone is dropping boxes in my trunk. I checked my trunk and took everything out and that still didn't work. When my car is stationary and I get out and push on the rear to test the shocks I hear the sound.
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