Golf/GTI VI :: E-Brake Sticky Feels Kind Of Crunchy Like Squashing A Plastic Bottle
Apr 1, 2010
So this morning I go out to my GTI to start up and release the E-Brake and the lever barely goes down and feels Squishy/Crunchy like your smashing a plastic water bottle. It rained last night and it was a bit cold (by So Cal standards, around 50 F, I know, we're all little schoolgirls in So Cal about the weather.)
So I raise and release the E-brake lever several more times and it gets a little better but not really. I manually push the lever down all the way to make sure the Brake light is not on and then drive to work. When I get to work and pull on the E-brake, it is fine. I raise and lower the lever a few more times and no sticky.
Of course, where I park the GTI faces a row of glass windows and I realize every time I raised and lowered the E-Brake this morning the HID DRL's were turned on and off several times, probably killing my HID's ....
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I have a 2013 GTI (which I love) however the steering feels like it sticks very slightly. If I hold the wheel on center then apply a little pressure to turn if pops off center about 1/8 of inch and then moves fine. As long as I keep moving it, its fine. If I stop for about five seconds it sticks again. This really faint but annoying. It reminds me of an old recirculating ball steering system where the wheel had slop in it.
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I've had my R32 for a week now and I'm starting to develop some questions. This is one that I haven't been able to find an answer to by searching, so here it goes. When the ABS is active (coming to a hard stop on snow and ice, for example), I get a really strange almost "crunchy" feel through the brake pedal. ABS I've experienced on other cars hasn't been this harsh so I'm not sure if it's normal on these.
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I have a 2007 Level 3 Prius with about 110k miles. I now have a problem that I am not sure how to fix. Perhaps because of the warmer weather the rubber that you press to get the hatch open has gotten kind of sticky. Sometimes your fingers will get some sticky black on them. I was starting to think that I should look into replacing this rubber. The hatch was sometimes getting hard to open.
Well, we just took this big 1300 mile drive from central Florida to western NY. We are now in 9 degree weather. I cannot get the hatch to open at all. The other day it stuck but after a few attempts and carefully pressing down on the hatch without hurting the spoiler I got it to open. I first thought it was just because things were packed tightly, but now nothing is back there and I cannot get the hatch to open.
I think I have resigned myself to the fact that I wont fix this until I'm back in sunny warm weather. Any thoughts on how to get this to open? And if I do get it to open will I be able to close it again? It feels like there is no longer any "give" to where you press the rubber to open the hatch.
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Just purchased my first ever Ford truck a few weeks ago, it's a 2012, and where the drivers right arm rested on the center console, near the cupholder, it's perpetually sticky. At first i thought it was just filthy, but after thoroughly cleaning it, it just stays sticky.
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My GTI is about a month old and I just recently started to notice a slight crunchy sound if I accelerate from 1st gear really slow (right around 1k rpm, maybe a little higher). You have to be going pretty slow and it goes away the second it goes to 2nd gear. It's almost like a creaking wooden floor but more metallic sounding, or driving over a soda can... It's really hard to describe.
I noticed this about week 2, but it seems to have gotten a little louder since then, or maybe i'm just going crazy... I have my first complimentary check up tomorrow morning. They are also going to be installing the waste-gate clip for the rattle noise, which I also noticed after the first week or so.
I will post on the results when I bring it up to the dealer tomorrow. In the meantime. I've looked around and one forum seemed to have a similar sound described, and said it was also the wastegate rattle, just not in the typical 2k-3k rpm range... I'm just hoping it's not a finicky dsg/mechatronic issue with the clutch not disengaging correctly.
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I just bought a 2013 Passat SE 2.5 about a month ago. Since driving it home I have noticed that the brake pedal sort of sticks when I let my foot up off it. It doesn't happen during hard braking, just normal to light, especially when I'm riding the brake in heavy traffic. When I lightly press the pedal in, it feels like something is sticking and again when I let off it has the same feeling and it will sometimes not come up with my foot, but it rather slaps/taps the bottom of my foot while returning to position.
I took the car back to the dealer to check out and of course the service tech didn't feel what I felt. So the let me drive a loaner Passat, same model, and I felt the SAME sensation in its brake pedal. At the time I just chalked it up to "that just must be how these are", but it's kind of annoying and I don't totally feel it's right. What is causing this?
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Topped off my windshield washer bottle because I was out of juice and now after filling it nothing is coming out how do you remove the bottle to check it. I think something is clogged in a line.
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I have the regular Prius 2012, The brake pedal is attached to a rod that goes into a flex boot and then into the ABS module in the Engine compartment. The Boot is leaking sticky greasy/oily fluid. It not a constant leak. Its like it leaked on a Hot day and then stopped leaking.
Its not the one from my car, but its what I'm calling the ABS Mod Is this not just the lubricant for the Pedal or is this real brake fluid from the ABS module leaking into the Car? took it to Toyota and they said they had never seen this before and they are recommending to replace the entire ABS Module and Brake Fluid at a cost of $3346 + Tax. (roughly $2700 in parts)
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Trying to figure out the best option to remedy some braking issues. One is the squishy pedal feel. It does not happen all the time, but sometimes I will notice that the pedal is "sagging" for lack of a better term, and when I let up on the pedal and press again, the point of action/effect seems to be much higher.
As for the pads, I'm also curious if new ones will work with the grab I've been feeling after leaving the car outside for a few days. I have completely stopped using my e-brake because if it rains or is wet to begin with, the pads seem to stick (I believe) to the rotors and I have to practically to a low rpm launch to get them unstuck. Then I hear a sort of bumpy feel like there is pad material stuck to the rotors. It usually fades after some highway driving and decent braking. I could have sworn it happened the other day with NO e-brake engaged though, so I really don't know what is going on.
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So finally got around to tracking down a rattle I had when driving over roads with choppy pavement (pretty much everywhere around here). There was a clinking kind of rattle coming from the rear of the car. Pulled everything out of the trunk including the spare tire and the noise was still there. Turns out its the rear seat pass through. The rattle is in the thing itself - its not the pass through rattling against the rear seat.
Removed the pass through, rattle gone. But now there is a hole in my rear set .. Guess I could ask the dealer to get me another one, but I'm betting this isn't that uncommon. I would have been happy to just have a split rear seat without the stupid pass through actually...
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Car, 1993 Ford Festiva, 199,800 miles, original clutch, 5 speed manual transmission. Had the shifter cable replaced about 2 years ago, so that's not it. For almost the past year or so, there's been a lot of freeplay in the clutch pedal, like you have to press about halfway to the floor before you start separating the clutch, but no slipping of clutch. Mechanic said usually when clutch is slipping it will grab near the top. Its been, like, for the past few months I really have to make sure I've got the clutch pedal pressed ALL THE WAY to the floor to shift the gears. Like it grabs way down at the very bottom. And it seems the gears don't shift smooth like they used to, like the shifts are getting "crunchy" for lack of a better word, this is hard to describe in a post.
So anyway, sitting at a light, light turns green, felt a 'POP' as I pushed the clutch pedal close to the floor. So now the pedal pushes down very loosely until about the last 2 inches or so, and at any rate, almost impossible to shift gears. I can kinda jam the gears if the vehicle is moving, but taking off from a stop is darned near impossible, I can kinda jam it into second gear and rev the engine to get going. (And I only did that in order to get home) Actually I was about 80 miles from home when this happened, fortunately I was near a major interstate, only had to contend with 7 traffic lights and managed to hit 3 of them green. Rolling along in gear (any gear) seems fine, almost impossible to shift.
Car now sitting on front lawn, tried (with motor off) shifting the gears, with or without clutch pedal depressed. Gears feel 'crunchy', i.e. doesn't shift smoothly doesn't want to go into a gear. I was thinking along the lines of maybe a clutch spring or a synchronizer broke when I heard the 'pop'.
And this is off--topic, but to top it all off, I get in my other vehicle to go to the store, and within half a mile the "check engine" light comes on, but that's another topic, you can tell I had one heck of a day, someday I'm gonna buy me a new or newish car I'm getting sick and tired of patching up my rolling junkpiles, but for a variety of reasons which would be off-topic and thus verboten.
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I'm wondering if the Fram Toughgard filter is the culprit. First time I'm using this brand. I know this car has had noisy lifter before, but it was all gone for a while, and mysteriously came back after the oil change. It's not the fluid level, which is fine. It should be noted that the lifter noise doesn't happen until the engine is warm and has been taken up to highway speeds.
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My 2000 vr6 gti been starting too act up. After about an hour or so of driving the ride gets rough , loses power and it makes this knocking noise . Although when I punch the clutch in the knocking goes away . Besides the knocking going away the rides still pretty rough though . Once it starts this it starts too backfire way louder than it usually does and it throws out this funky smell kind of like burning oil /syrup smell lol .
I really wanna fix the car . When the car does drive good it's no complaints at all . I do know that I have a misfire in cylinder 3 & 4 though and I do have all the codes scanned from the obd2. I've heared of this being the throw out bearing but I'm not completely sure. There's a video to actually hear it. [URL] ....
Obd2 Codes :
P1473
P1432
P0300
P0301
P0306
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I have a 2010 Ford ranger sport 4x4, manual, and when backing up at a decent speed, then press the brake to slow up then depress the clutch, the brake pedal pulsates and it feels like something is grinding. It has happened in first once, but I can make it happen in reverse anytime...
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I just got my new 2014 RX350 a few weeks ago. After these weeks drive, I feel the Brake is kind of soft and unsensitive.
When I braking, the first part of the brake pad feels soft and the braking is not very efficient, until I push a lot of the brake pad, the braking becomes confident and efficient.
I used to drive my 2006 Nissan altima , and feels the brake pad is very sensitive. My new lexus makes me a little bit unconfident when following a car in a short distance.
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I have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
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So after several thousand miles and many many moons of driving the R with my wife's wheelchair in the back, I find it way to bouncy for me. Still haven't put coilovers on due to this problem, I wasn't sure which c/o's would take the extra, say 300 pounds, on them as my DD. H&R RSS club sports are what I'm almost positive I'm getting seeing as they say keep those on the track, I'm sure they must be fairly sturdy. Now just a matter of time and saving money on top of health care for the wife which we won't go into. Now of course I'll put those on and then also their sway bars, front and rear along with someone's camber kit.
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I've had this happen to my car lots and lots of times and taken it to Vw about 10 times to get it checked out and they always say nothings come up
When I start my car it runs perfectly fine, but later on it starts to shake and feels like the car wants to turn itself off.
I first thought it was to do with cold starts but it's happen in all sorts of temperatures, sometimes i've driven the car for 10 miles and the engine is at 90 degrees but it still happens.
Videos bellow show what happens.
The car is a 1.6 TDI ...
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My R is almost at 70k miles and the front end feels sloppy and loose. What is the best option to restore that new car feel or even get it handling better than stock? I already have United Motorsport strut mounts which definitely improved the handling. ECS has some suspension refresh kits (links below), but the question is which one should I go with? Would the Stage 1 kit with OEM replacements be enough? Or should I go with the Stage 3 with Powerflex bushings? I'm always down for upgrading rather than simply replacing. I'm sure that would get it handling real nice, but would definitely create a stiffer ride, right?
Stage 1 - [URL] ...
Stage 2 - [URL] ...
Stage 2+ - [URL] ...
Stage 3 - [URL] ...
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When I get of the throttle my R is acting weird. It almost feels like the engine is moving, it doesn't feel smooth anymore. Also when I get to a stop and downshift it feels harsh . When I accelerate and go off the throttle it feels harsh, just if my engine would torque. But I checked the mounts and they are all good. Could this be something with the differential as well?
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