When I get of the throttle my R is acting weird. It almost feels like the engine is moving, it doesn't feel smooth anymore. Also when I get to a stop and downshift it feels harsh . When I accelerate and go off the throttle it feels harsh, just if my engine would torque. But I checked the mounts and they are all good. Could this be something with the differential as well?
View 7 RepliesI just have a 1999 ES300 that is having a strange issue. I realize this is a toyota forum, but the engines should all be the same.
When you accelerate from a stop at full throttle, the car feels very sluggish moving up the RPM range, and acts as though it is missing and stumbling the entire way up. If you do the same acceleration at lets say 70-80% throttle its much faster and much smoother (like the car is supposed to be). Works just fine until the car hits like 55mph, then power just cuts out.
If I'm revving the car in park or neutral its the same story. Works well at part throttle, but full throttle it misses as its revving up. To me this seems like 100% some kind of weird electrical issue. I'm having a tough time tracking it down though.
Things I have done:
1. At one point i had an VVTi OCV code for the rear bank, so I've replaced both OCV filters, and removed tested and replaced the RH OCV valve (they were both working to spec, but the rear one had a little more play in it).
2. No codes by OBDii scanning.
3. Cleaned MAF
4. Checked intake hoses for rips (there are none)
5. TPS seems to be working well based on OBDii diagnostics.
Got an odd clunk, feels like rear off throttle from hard acceleration. Feels like diff bushings might be worn. Looking for some info about diff bushings and how they feel. Also found the front prop shaft coupler looks like its seen much better days so ill be replacing that.
View 8 RepliesI purchased a 2014 Toyota Corolla Le Eco Plus last May. The car rode FINE for a few months, but then I began to notice that the ride feels completely rough/harsh. It's almost like a jittery feeling. After researching I've found reviews that said "the Corolla's ride is harsh and unpleasant," but to me it feels like it's gradually getting worse. That has me thinking something is wrong with the car itself, not just that the Corolla in general rides rough. I've taken it in to the dealership multiple times, but they say nothing is wrong. I honestly don't know what to do. What could it be? Struts? Shocks? I mean, it's BRAND NEW.
View 19 RepliesSo after owning my R for just over a week I've noticed that when I accelerate hard or let off the throttle the shifter seems to move quite a bit. Is this normal with the stock mounts or is it something I should have looked at? I know the stock mounts are rubber to aid in isolating the vibration of the engine but it seems like the shifter moves a little more than I would expect.
View 1 Replies4 months ago we bought a 2010 SF V6 with 70,000kms - we immediately noticed this very harsh 2-3 transmission sift under light to moderate throttle. Mostly in parking lots or accelerating slowly. Took it to the dealer and the flashed the ECU - - - this made the issue a little better.
I was reading around the net - the problem seems to be associated with sticky solenoids. I decided to change the fluid < 4 drain and fills > to Maxlife and I added a product from a company called Lubegard, this completely eliminated any harsh shifting at any speed or throttle.
I dont know if it was the additive or the 90% new fluid - however if the solenoids are the cause - keeping them properly lubricated seems like a good idea.
I will also be installing a Magnefine inline transmission filter as well. I have used them in the past with great results.
Sometimes I find my 2013 Camry is not accelerating as expected and I feel the car is dragging. However, I don't see this issue always. However, it often ever now and then.
Is there any issue with the engine ?
I have a 2010 Prius 5 and before I took it into service the car started acting weird. At slow speeds it would be in like ev mode and when I would push on the throttle it would kinda lag and almost feel like the car was gonna die out but it didn't. It would only happen once in awhile.
When I took it in for service at Toyota I mentioned the problem and they couldn't find anything wrong. So a few days later I was leaving Costco and as I got bout 10 feet away from the stall I was in the car did that same almost die out thing but the car started beeping and all the lights on the dash came on with the check hybrid system. Every light was on and stayed on tpms, traction control light ect. The car still ran but it ran like shit n the engine stay running the whole time. I managed to get home safely and took it into Toyota on a stand by appointment the next day.
3 days later they call saying the car is ready to pick up n the problem was the hybrid battery (240volt) was no good n was covered under the hybrid side of the warranty which is 8 years/180,000miles. Btw the car has 64,000 miles I maintain the car very well I did all fluid flushes at 50,000miles.
Sooo. As I accelerate it feels like my rear gear box is slipping or grinding? idk but its getting progressively worse.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2004 Nissan Xterra that has been chugging for a few months now. The problem is intermittent and only happens about once or twice a week when driving, but when it starts to chug (feels like it is running out of gas, jerky, will not accelerate) it is unsafe to drive on the freeway. I have taken it to several places and no one can figure out the problem. It was pulling two codes the speed sensor on the transmission PO500 - and the knock sensor code was coming up along with that. I had the speed sensor replaced twice and checked the wiring. We replaced the fuel filter, checked the fuel pump with a fuel gage and fuel lines, replaced the distributor cap and rotor, put in a new MAF sensor and still nothing is working to remedy the chugging. My last stop is replacing the knock sensor for $600, the problem is that the Nissan Mechanics (I visited two dealerships in different cities) told me not to replace this as it would not cause chugging. Several other mechanics around town tell me that they are wrong and I do need to replace it.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2012 2.5 with auto trans and am experiencing a problem. After coming to a stop and easing pressure from the brake pedal, if you re-apply pressure you feel a harsh engagement of the transmission, feels like you put it in neutral and then back in drive. Sometimes it will do it while stopped with no change in pedal pressure and feels like someone rear ended you.
View 10 RepliesI have an 86 Nissan pickup with a z24 motor in it, yes the weird 4 cyl. With 8 plugs. It has been lurching when I let off the throttle or sometimes when I accelerate. Its been doing it for a year and won't do it all the time it is intermittent but does it more then it doesn't.
View 2 RepliesHad a little tap tap tap vibration when doing between 45 and 65 mph. Assumed it was either wheel bearing or CV joint. Noticed the vibration when slightly turning like a lane change.
Now when we back out of a parking spot the whole car vibrates like it's stuck in AWD. Not sure, I guess a bad CV joint would cause this. I'm gonna inspect wheel bearings but I think they are fine. Not sure if the high speed vibration is still here.
CV joints causing nasty vibrations through out the car? Nasty harsh vibration at low speeds with the wheel turned? What's the proper way to inspect these CV joints??
My car is: Passat 1.9 PDTDI, 2003,AVB(101HP)(200.000km). This is my first diesel car, I bought it two months ago. The car has poor power under 1800-2000rpm. I push the throttle full down and my car accelerate slowly. At 1800-2000rpm kick out and accelerate very fast, but over 3000rpm the car goes limp mode.
2 months ago i had the following error msg: 17965 charge pressure control positive deviation p1557 - 35-10 intermittent.
My turbo was cleaned. No limp mode,but poor power under 1800 rpm.
Now, I have this error msg again. I logged the block 11 with vag-com. The duty cycle is 94,4(2500rpm).
The EGR is disabled. What is the problem? MAP? MAF? Actuator? Turbo?
2010 Prius. There may be times when you attempt to accelerate from a stop on snow or ice where the throttle will not respond. The reason for this is that our hybrid vehicles have 100% of the electric engine's torque available at 0-1,500 RPM unlike our gas-only vehicles, where maximum torque is available around 4,000 rpm. If the Traction Control System detects wheel spin it will inhibit the throttle because if the tires were to spin and then suddenly gain traction, the torque would be so great that damage could occur to the transaxle.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2001 Regal GS with 105K. It starts, idles and runs fine if I drive it like a Grandpa, but if I try to accelerate even 1/3 or more throttle, it surges and misses. It keeps giving a P0102 (Mass Air Flow A Circuit Low), sometimes less than a minute from resetting it, and other times after 5-10 minutes of driving. I've tried 5 MAF's, two of which were new, and one from a known good running L67 motor. Plugs are new and wires are good. The power and ground wire of the connector test good, but I'm not able to test the signal wire. I've also checked over all vacuum lines and hoses, and pressure tested the exhaust for a plugged cat. I even tried another TPS.
View 2 RepliesMy ranger is an 89 but it's got a 91 motor in it, 2.9 V6. When I accelerate it hesitates before actually accelerating which makes me think the TPS is bad. Probed and tested and I got .85V throttle closed and 4.65 at wide open. Specs call for .8V - 4.5V
I'm not sure if there's an allowance of fluctuation, but is that high enough to point out a bad TPS? If it's not the TPS, is the ignition timing off or what else could it be?
Just wanted to make sure this isn't a problem? Sometimes after a drive, usually longer ones, when the engine has heated up and running for around 20ish minutes, I hear a harsh bubbling noise coming from the engine.
I popped the hood and wanted to see where it was coming from, I touched around and felt the dipstick (oil) vibrating, but then I felt the oil pan and couldn't feel any bubbling in there.
Also I disconnected the battery as the bubbling was going on, and as soon a I did that, it had stopped.
The last couple of days I've noticed a strange sound that come on under boost accelerating at highway speeds. It's a harsh ssshhhh sound that rises in frequency with engine RPM, sort of between a wood lathe and a bench grinder. happens under mid to WOT. It almost seems like I am loosing a little HP as well but I can't confirm that. It's loud enough to hear it in the cabin and with the windows down I can definitely hear it. It's not really fluttering, that I'm used to being on my 3rd tuned 2.0T
View 6 RepliesI find it hard to smoothly accelerate from a stop with my V6 DSG. I have to be very careful how much pressure I apply to the gas to get a smooth take off...too easy to accelerate to fast or break the tires loose. Can this be reprogrammed?
View 3 Replies2002 camry. The car will not accelerate. The throttle body makes a clicking sound when pedal is depressed.
So.. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts in it. In the mean time located a spare throttle body from a 2003 from a local yard. The old throttle body has a part number 22030-28030 and the replacement has a part number 22030 0H010. The replacement throttle body wouldn't even move when the pedal was depressed.
I put the old one back on.. and now it doesn't click anymore but the car in Park only revs to 2000 rpm's. Its not sticking or having any mechanical issue.
I checked the parts site for Toyota and the replacement is the new number. Superseded. Does the throttle body after replacement need to be reprogrammed? Or whats the deal. I wish I was more Toyota literate when it comes to this.