Golf IV R32 :: Shifter Seems To Move Quite A Bit When Accelerate Hard Or Let Off The Throttle
Dec 19, 2011
So after owning my R for just over a week I've noticed that when I accelerate hard or let off the throttle the shifter seems to move quite a bit. Is this normal with the stock mounts or is it something I should have looked at? I know the stock mounts are rubber to aid in isolating the vibration of the engine but it seems like the shifter moves a little more than I would expect.
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I've got a 1.8T 2004 automatic and the problem I'm having is the shifter is harder to move since the weather's been colder. It shifts very well and is responsive, it's just that I have to pull it harder to select P, R, N and D. D is especially hard (no pun intended you sick minds! ) to select, the shifter kind of stays in neutral but shifts after a bit. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
Side question: is the rear defrost supposed to turn off after a certain period of time? My 2002 golf does it but the jetta doesn't.
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Corolla '04: I have to press the brake pedal extremely hard to get the shifter to move out of the Park position.
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Got in to go to work this am, and the gear shifter was difficult to move. What to check?
I drove 70 miles to work and didn't seem like any issues with the transmission shifting.
Got in to go to lunch and it seems even more difficult to move...
Shifting back and forth in the selector seems to loosen things up a little.
A friend move the selector while I looked at the linkage and the bracket that support the cable is flexing while shifting between gears....More likely a transmission issue or something with the linkage?
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This morning as I get in to drive my kid to school (2005 2.7 2 wd auto) as I go to put it in reverse I noticeably have to pull it with some force. I have never had to "force it" before, it had always switched gears with ease. This time it felt very stiff but had no issues going into gear. After I dropped my son off at school I went through the gears up and down and it felt very stiff (at this point i have no issues with starting it or P).
At lunch I go out to get something to eat and when I go to start it up it won't start. I try and try and nothing. All the lights came on, it's not a battery issue at all (brand new). But after 10 tries it starts, so I'm pretty happy. Then I go to put it in gear (reverse) I can not press in the button on the side of the gear shift. It will not go in. I press with all my might and it wont budge. But again, after about 10 good tries at it goes in and I can then select my gear but still feels very stiff.
After stopping again I didn't shut off the engine and dicked around with the shifter basically figured out that my car is not recognizing Park. On the instrument panel each gear lights up but not P. It gets very stiff when trying to put it in P but it doesn't actually go into P. If I put it in P (or really the further up it will go) and shut off the car, it won't start again. I can start it up in N and only N.
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My cousin has a 2007 Ford Taurus with the pushrod 3.0L. It has the console shifter and it is hard to move the shift lever into Park from Reverse. The shifer moves out of park and to every other gear with normal effort. The gear indicator correctly displays the shifter position. It drives/shifts perfectly fine. The only problem is that it is hard to move the shifter from Reverse into Park. It feels like there is a rubbery, or somewhat mushy threshold/resistance that needs to be overcome with a moderate amount of effort to get the shifter into park. Once the shifter is in Park it feels normal meaning you don't have to hold or force the shifter to stay in park.
It is frustrating because it seems most other people have a problem with the shfiter being hard to move from Park to Reverse or Neutral, but she is having the opposite issue. Will it hurt the car to keep shoving the shifter into park when necessary without getting it fixed?
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2000 VR6 automatic. Yesterday my car was stuck in park couldn't move the shifter . Figured it was the brake sensor switch when the brake is engaged food pedal lights do not go out, I replaced it this morning but still won't work I've been driving it around in limp mode?
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I have a 2004 2.0L Jetta with a 5 Speed manual transmission.
When shifting into third gear sometimes I push the shifter forward and it does not want to move all the way forward. It feels like I am pushing the shifter knob against a wall, or more accurately the bottom of the shift that pulls the cables feels like it is hitting a wall. If I pull it back out and press it in hard it will go into place sometimes.
This also solves the problem: While the shifter is mid shift into third, at the wall/ at the point of resistance, I let off the clutch slightly to give the flywheel some friction. This rolls the transmission a bit and allows third gear to slide into place.
I have experience with a MK4 Audi TT 1.8T that cam with a 6-SPD and it at had a 1-2 and 2-3 synchronizer issue (The one where the nipples are worn and it grinds at higher RPMS because they can no longer make a firm handshake). The issue I am experiencing is not that.
Could it be the transmission cables? Could it be some other cogs in the transmission? - If so does this mean I need to buy a used one? My car has 180K miles on it with the original clutch.
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I find it hard to smoothly accelerate from a stop with my V6 DSG. I have to be very careful how much pressure I apply to the gas to get a smooth take off...too easy to accelerate to fast or break the tires loose. Can this be reprogrammed?
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When I am in 6th gear (this only happens in 6th) the shifter kicks forward (towards the front of the car) about a quarter inch when I let off of the gas. When I press the gas again the shifter kicks back (towards the back of the car) a quarter inch.
I believe that this is caused by the haldex disengaging, because no matter how slowly I let off of the throttle, the kick is the same strength (or force? dont really know how to describe it). I was wondering if this is normal, or if I should get it checked out?
When I searched the only thing that came up was checking the mounts. I'm not sure this is the solution to my problem since this ONLY happens when I am in 6th gear, all other gears feel solid.
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When the car is in gear it's great! Or at least it seems great. However, trying to place the Shift Lever in the car into the gear "slots?" is troublesome.
It feels as though there is a wall in the way for each gear, and i have to force my way through the wall. It's not absolutely Terrible, for i've been driving like this for months. But i want a smother shift! I want to be able to just slide the Shift Lever into gear without any hangups or major resistance.
Double Clutching seems to work, however it might just be from the small loss of RPMs through the process of double clutching.
Personally I would rather not have to double clutch just to see a slight improvement. I have big feet and they constantly are rubbing on the floor mat as well as the plastic above the pedals, so double clutching always feels like i'm wedging my foot into a hole, then back out and in, before i can go into another gear lol.
The problem is only a real issue when i'm in higher RPMs giving the car more gas. I.E. after a fast launch in first, shifting even around 5500 puts a WALL up on second gear making it impossible for me to get it into second gear, after not getting it into second i usually throw it in third, and essentially lose all the acceleration i had from the first gear launch.
As well is there anyway to make the clutch a little stiffer? She grabs fine, i just like stiffer clutch, it requires less of me trying to wedge my huge foot on the pedal.
It's an un-molested MKIV Jetta VR6 with 167k.
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When I get of the throttle my R is acting weird. It almost feels like the engine is moving, it doesn't feel smooth anymore. Also when I get to a stop and downshift it feels harsh . When I accelerate and go off the throttle it feels harsh, just if my engine would torque. But I checked the mounts and they are all good. Could this be something with the differential as well?
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Decided to see if any of you fine gentleman could offer some insight into my shifting problems. OK so here it is. I have a short throw shifter and it shifts perfectly at lower RPM's ( under about 3k) anything over that and I have to somewhat force it into gear. I also noticed that when in neutral the shifter seems off centered to the right about an inch roughly. I had the R into VW for some other work recently and they said it was prob the short throw itself so I ordered a new one which should be here tm. Hopefully that will take care of this problem
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Installed some shifter cable bushings. But now reverse is harder to get to. Instead of just pushing it down and left for reverse.. Now I have to tilt the shift know slightly towards 4th gear then push down and go left and the gate seems so much smaller now. Overall it doesn't feel that much better than stock. what could i have done wrong?
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I am experiencing a very weird issue ... at least in my opinion with my DSG on my 2012 mk6 GTI. I am not sure if this is the DSG "clunk" but when parked uphill/downhill and going from P to R the shift knob is very hard to move. When switching it, it almost sounds like there is some metal grinding. This happens when the car is parked once again uphill/downhill in 99% of the time. There is some very rare instances when the DSG acts the same way when i park it on a leveled street but extremely rare once again. Should I be worried? The DSG has been a great transmission so far, no issues what so ever except VW's flash.
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So driving home from work today and got on the throttle a little hard going uphill in the highway when the EPC light came on. I was only at at 4.5-5k rpm and the engine didn't totally cut out it just shuttered if I hit the gas. I pulled off turned the car off and when I started it again the light was off and car drove fine.
2015 Golf Sport SE 1.8T, APR Stage 2, APR downpipe, APR Carbon Fiber Intake, Remus Cat Back Exhaust Chrome Tips, LED license plate/rear/turn/brake lights
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How hard is it to replace the sunroof slider? Mine is making a clicking noise and hard to move on the drivers side. Does the headliner and sunroof need to be removed?
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I have a 2.0. Custom gt28 turbo project. Been up and running for awhile now. Took it on a 4 hr trip home and drove it back.
All of a sudden after the holidays it started to overheat and I had no heat. It will not overheat when idling. I replaced the thermostat recently. Lower hose gets warm when it opens. I replaced the green top sensor. I have done a wire tuck etc and I am running a closed coolant system. I believe I have gotten the air out of the system.
It will idle all day at 190. But as soon as I drive and accelerate hard or go over 50 mph it overheats and will not cool off unless I pull over and turn the car off. It will steam as if it's losing coolant somewhere but I think it's at the cap (too much pressure?).
I am thinking water pump but I am not sure. I got the car with 124k miles I'm at 127000. I was told timing was done at 90 could the pump be failing already? Also when it overheats I get a cel for misfire is that normal?
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As I got to work today, I took the off-ramp particularly enthusiastically. At the very end of the ramp, I got a huge red warning on my MFI saying 'Fuel Pressure Low, Engine off'. Error message was on for maybe 2 seconds. I checked my tach, no dip below 2k, throttle response was normal. Car has run fine after that.
My hypothesis of this happening: I was low on fuel. Indicated range was 40 miles. When I took that corner hard, gas must have sloshed around in the tank in a way that the fuel pump didnt 'find' any gas for a couple seconds - causing the error. As the fuel settled in the tank, got back to normal.
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I just did a stage 1 remap on a 2010 golf r, everything is works like a charm. However, when I lift-off the throttle the car jerks hard. This only occurs on the first start and cures itself after a drive. I could simply replicate the problem by shutting down the engine and turning it back on. it doesn't have to be cold. it seems to be the ecu forgot everything it learn after i switch off the engine. Happens in all gears including reverse. noticed that during reverse, the car seem to go fast with light throttle , and back to normal once the problem is cured after a drive. Had no issues before the tune.
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2007 Rabbit shakes quite hard when i accelerate mainly on any type of incline and only between 35-60 mph. When i take it to the shop they cant find a problem.
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