Golf VI R :: Hard Jerking When Lift Off The Throttle
Aug 6, 2013
I just did a stage 1 remap on a 2010 golf r, everything is works like a charm. However, when I lift-off the throttle the car jerks hard. This only occurs on the first start and cures itself after a drive. I could simply replicate the problem by shutting down the engine and turning it back on. it doesn't have to be cold. it seems to be the ecu forgot everything it learn after i switch off the engine. Happens in all gears including reverse. noticed that during reverse, the car seem to go fast with light throttle , and back to normal once the problem is cured after a drive. Had no issues before the tune.
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I have the following code's P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306
I have change all spark plug and coil and it still their.
As soon as i go off throttle the check engine start flashing and then when I go on throttle again the car is jerking and got no power.
After a time the check engine light stay on full time and I have big power loss.
I have check for leaks spraying start pilot on every intake junction to see if I had a leak ( engine should rev from sucking start pilot) doesn't seams that I got a leak.
So I'm thinking of the following:
- Bad Maf
- Bad fuel pump
- Bad driveter valve
- injector. But 6 failing at same time would be strange
- cam sensor
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It's only in manual with about 30-50% throttle shifting around 3K RPM and only from 1st-2nd-3rd, after that it's fine.
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One of the caliper does not fully retract when I don't push the brake, the wheel is hard to rotate when the car is on the lift.
I pretty sure it is the square ring the problem.
I know that those square ring worth only a couple of bucks.
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1999 Passat GLS, 1.8T, 5 Speed, 162K miles on car, 50K miles on replaced head after a timing belt snap.
Okay, first issue, car accelerates smoothly, and holds interstate speed just fine. BUT, when you lift off the throttle at speed, you get a shimmy-shake out of the front suspension like the tires are suddenly out of balance. Back on the skinny pedal, smooths back out. Never touching the brakes during this whole cycle.
Second issue is what I found tucked into the rear storage compartment with the first aid symbol. No first aid kit (should there be one?) but two extra quarts of oil. 10W-30, uh, dino oil. Not synthetic. I got no maintenance records other than a copy of the repair invoice for the head work, so I'm not sure what oil was used in regular oil changes, but at least the "top-off" quarts are not the right stuff. Should I be overly concerned? Should I immediately do an oil change to Mobil 1 like I was planning? What about some kind of engine flush?
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I am getting a vibration when I lift off of the throttle and again when I press the throttle. What causes this. Also what is the normal operation of the 4x4 system is this a true all wheel drive system with a 2 speed t-case or is this the normal old control trac that I had in my 98 4.0.
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I have a 93 F250 diesel 4X4 with the automatic, the transmission was rebuilt by a reputable shop les than 10000. miles ago, every few months it will act up, it will act like I put it in neutral then it slams back in gear, then it shifts very hard, sometimes it will not shift until i lift the throttle. Sometimes I can shut it off and when i start it again it will be back to normal, other times it will do this for a few days, then work fine for another month or two.
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So driving home from work today and got on the throttle a little hard going uphill in the highway when the EPC light came on. I was only at at 4.5-5k rpm and the engine didn't totally cut out it just shuttered if I hit the gas. I pulled off turned the car off and when I started it again the light was off and car drove fine.
2015 Golf Sport SE 1.8T, APR Stage 2, APR downpipe, APR Carbon Fiber Intake, Remus Cat Back Exhaust Chrome Tips, LED license plate/rear/turn/brake lights
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I drive a '99 Chevy Tracker with the 2Liter engine, a 5 speed manual transmission and 110K mi. on it. When I lift my foot from the throttle pedal in preparing to shift gears the engine takes a very long time to reduce it's RPM. This is a problem, when up shifting, as the transmission is spinning too fast for smooth gear engagement.
The engine idles normally under all other circumstances. It is only slow to decelerate whenever I lift my foot from the throttle pedal. This makes up shifting very slow and/or causes the gears to sometimes grind slightly.
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As I got to work today, I took the off-ramp particularly enthusiastically. At the very end of the ramp, I got a huge red warning on my MFI saying 'Fuel Pressure Low, Engine off'. Error message was on for maybe 2 seconds. I checked my tach, no dip below 2k, throttle response was normal. Car has run fine after that.
My hypothesis of this happening: I was low on fuel. Indicated range was 40 miles. When I took that corner hard, gas must have sloshed around in the tank in a way that the fuel pump didnt 'find' any gas for a couple seconds - causing the error. As the fuel settled in the tank, got back to normal.
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So after owning my R for just over a week I've noticed that when I accelerate hard or let off the throttle the shifter seems to move quite a bit. Is this normal with the stock mounts or is it something I should have looked at? I know the stock mounts are rubber to aid in isolating the vibration of the engine but it seems like the shifter moves a little more than I would expect.
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Buddy of mine woke up with a GLI that runs like this. Stage 2 Uni, cold air, 3 inch turbo back. [URL] ....
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Got an odd clunk, feels like rear off throttle from hard acceleration. Feels like diff bushings might be worn. Looking for some info about diff bushings and how they feel. Also found the front prop shaft coupler looks like its seen much better days so ill be replacing that.
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When I let off on the throttle the truck jerk forward a little. It does it some times when hitting the throttle too. I have changed u joints in the drive shaft. I noticed the carrier bearing has a little play (going to change it this weekend). But I wouldn't think that would cause this.
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I have a 1994 Black Ford F150 and i was wondering if i could lift the truck 6 inches only using lift blocks (or any other cheap way to get my truck off the ground)....
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I have a 2006 GS RWD the transmission started acting weird 4 month ago went to many workshops and no codes were found in the computer and my problem is that when i am moving in the car for more than half an hour and stop the car seems hard and jerking while shifting to 2nd gear and if i put it in tiptronic it go to 5th gear immediately it seems ok when the transmission is cold so what do you think it has got 125000 miles on it and what is the normal temperature for the transmission so i can test it with mini vci...
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The auto trans on my SL has been shifting hard and jerking lately, and the other night it wouldn't shift into 4th at all and I got a CEL code having to do with the transmission solenoid. So to my question; how hard is this solenoid to replace, and were is it located? Also, need to get part number? Additionally, I check the fluid every few weeks so I know that's good, and it seems to get worse (more jerky) when its hot.
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My 20th Ann. Is jerking under acceleration. When I hit the gas pedal slightly hard it starts jerking. Every once in a while the CEL will flash on and off. I changed the spark plugs and coil packs, cleaned the MAF, and now I have no real direction where to go. Maybe it could be a vaccum problem...
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About a month ago my Lumina (1999 LTZ 3.8L 85,000 miles) started jerking a little bit while slowing down almost like I was hitting the brake too hard and after 2 days of it the car would shut off while braking toward a stop sign or while idling and would to this without the jerk, no warning. I replaced the throttle position sensor hoping this would fix the problem, it did nothing. Soon after this the engine would jerk really bad while driving and shut off even during acceleration, the service engine soon light came on during this time. I took it to a local mechanic who said the error code was for a faulty mass air flow sensor, so that was replaced. This made things a lot better, no more dying or jerking while driving but there was a new problem.
When starting the engine cold no issues, when starting the engine warm after sitting 20-30 minutes it would shake and the RPMs would fluctuate by 300-400, but once I put it in drive and started going it would drive smooth. The service engine light came back on so I brought it back to the mechanic. This time they said the fuel pump wasn't pumping enough fuel (low pressure?) and it needed to be replaced so I did that but it created a new problem. When I would start the car cold the RPMs would jump way up to 2000 then down to 0 or it would jump to 2000 then down to 500 then up to 1500 then down and so on until I put it in drive.
So I brought it back again and they replaced a gasket around the fuel pump, put a new idle control sensor (i think?) and told me to turn the key to on, listen for the pump to stop pumping fuel and then start the car, I have never had to do that before all these problems. This worked fine for about 2 weeks and now I am back to the car shaking while starting it warm like it did before the new fuel pump and the service engine light just came back on. But again, once I start driving it runs nice and smooth like there are no problems.
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I recently replace my catalytic converter with a MagnaFlow direct fit, thinking it may have been clogged. This did not solve my problem. The car only jerks after it has been driven more than 30 minutes. It usually starts jerking once I get back into town (stop and go traffic). I have replace a handful of sensors. I plan on replacing the transmission control solenoid. How many do I need? Where is the TCS located?
2002 Chevy Monte Carlo SS 3.8 6cyl. 98k mi.
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So I installed coilovers a short while ago and now I need an alignment bad (obviously), but when I took it to get aligned, I was told my car is too low to drive up onto the lift , so I was wondering if I would be able to adjust my coils to a better height and then after the alignment just drop them back down a bit, it won't be too major of a drop back down but I just want to make sure I wouldn't be wasting my money. There is a place up the road that will do the alignment at my current height but for a pretty steep price considering how low my car is.
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