I have a 1994 Black Ford F150 and i was wondering if i could lift the truck 6 inches only using lift blocks (or any other cheap way to get my truck off the ground)....
View 2 RepliesI have a 94 Fsuperduty with a flatbed and lift that folds up and stores under the end of the bed. Recently while on a job the lift wouldn't go up, so I checked the one fuse I know of in the system and it was burnt. Put a new one in and before the lift reached the top it burnt-out again. It had been working with no problems for months prior to then.
View 4 Repliesim trying to lift my truck to clear 44's its a 88 f250 ext cab long bed, I will be using a dana 60 front and stearling 10 1/4 rear, if I get 6 inch lifted leafs front n back with my 3 inch body lift is 9 inchs enouph? If not will it be atleast high enough for 40s?
View 1 RepliesI have a 02 f250 powerstroke and I wanna put a suspension lift kit on it I wanna go with a 6 inch lift but I'm afraid if I go any higher than a 4 inch I'll have to change to much. What I would have to change and if I would have to extend any of my brake lines also the truck is a cab and a half with an 8 foot bed so I do have a carrier baring on the drive shaft would I have to change anything with that?
View 14 Replies2003 f250 6" lift on 35s. How to lift the suspension to change out spring bushings? Was thinking using two chain falls on tow hooks on the front, any easier, safe, cheaper way. I have a farm jack but need to weld a plate on bottom of it for more support...
View 5 RepliesI've had my Accent for a year and a half and now it has about 23k miles on it. I noticed that whenever I would apply the brakes, and the lift my foot off the pedal, I would hear a squeak . . . kind of like a squeaky door. It would happen every time I would lift off the brake pedal. At first, I thought it was the pedal itself, then I rolled down the window and realized it was coming from my rear drums.
So I took the rear drums off which was a PITA to get them off, and used some brake cleaner and white lithium grease on the backing plates of the shoes and on the springs, and the squeak is gone!
I suspect this is probably an issue with drums since it's a relatively closed system and brake dust tends to accumulate in there. Any good technique to remove the rear drums, other than using a hammer to tap it loose?
Here's a pic of the rear brakes with the drum off.
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My truck wouldn't start so i replaced the fuel filter and it ran fine for a week than wouldn't start again. Took it to a mech, who ran all the computer codes and scans on it and came up with a lift pump pressure problem. Replaced the pump and it ran for 4 days, now it doesn't start again. They said the injection pump was fine.
View 2 RepliesI've done a ton of searches and everyone talks about the 250 rear blocks being 2 inches. I got under my truck the other night and my factory blocks measured to just shy of 4 inches. It seems like everyone says that those blocks only come with the 350s...
is there some sort of package that I might have to come factory with the larger rear blocks?
I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
View 9 RepliesI just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1994 F-250 4x4 w/manual transmission. I was driving a few days ago when the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor. I had almost no brakes (less than 10% at most), but luckily was able to get off the road safely. It was immediately apparent that the line connecting the T-fitting and the passenger side drum had broken.
I have never blown a brake line before, but I always assumed that you would have either front or rear brakes, depending on which line blew. Unfortunately I was wrong! The master cylinder reservoir was about 3/4 full when I initially checked it, but after I moved (slowly) the truck to a safer spot in the parking lot, I checked again and it was nearly empty.
Is my brake system behaving normally (no brakes front or rear, blown line completely empties the reservoir), or should there be some safety factor built in? If the system is operating correctly, is there any way to convert to a system that doesn't give out fully when a line is blown?
I bought a used 2001 Excursion. Neither of the middle row 60/40 bench seats will lift up.
The 60% (wider) bench seat lifted fine a week ago. Then I installed two car seats above them, drove it for a week, and when I took them out and tried to lift that bench seat, it seems stuck. I pull up on the lever, but the seat won't lift.
The previous owner re-upholstered the seats before I bought it, and there is no opening in the new upholstery for it even to latch into the base. So I'm very confused how it could be locked.
Similar story for the other 40% (smaller) seat. We actually just lifted this seat up and cut out holes in the new upholstery so that it could lock into the base. And when we finally pushed it down and heard it lock, after that we could not get it to lift. We pull the latch up and hear it unlock, and we can feel underneath that it is unlocked. Yet the seat will not lift.
I'm pulling with all my strength, but the seats are stuck.
My dad has a 2008 F150 with just over 36K on the clock, and wouldn't you know it the ABS light came on. He's been a Ford guy all his life and excellent with a wrench, but has never worked on an ABS problem. BTW, this is the first problem he's had on his last 2 F150's.
I know we'll need to plug it up to a scanner. My question is can we plug up to the OBDII port or is there another ABS port we need to plug into, and will a regular scanner work, or do we need a special scanner?
I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
My truck sat for 4 years. 1995 F-250. We needed to replace the brake lines. when you hit the brakes the truck does stop but not fast enough and it will not pass inspection this way. So far I've replaced
1. All the brake lines
2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders
Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!
First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
View 4 RepliesHave read through alot of the threads and can't seem to find an answer. Bought a used 94 explorer xlt. It came with brand new Wrangler tires. The day we bought it we were driving home and it started shaking and wobbling at about 95kms and but seemed to improve after 115. So I took it to the tire shop next day and had all 4 tires rebalanced. The shop told me that all were out to lunch. The worst was 2 ounces out. Ok cool. Was certain that was the problem. Took off. Got on the highway and same damn thing. The steering seems very tight. No bangs. No knocks. Just the bloody shaking. Oh and also the abs light comes on just as it starts to shake.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Excursion 4x4 Diesel 6.0. I want to do a lift of 2 inches with 18 inch wheels and 33 inch rubber. What is the best and most affordable way to get that done? The lift kits are at least a grand and that seems crazy for a 2 inch lift. I want to continue to park the scurge in the garage. So 4 inch is probably pushing it for garage access. My garage is 81.5 inches tall.
View 14 RepliesI've got serious shake going on in the right front. I ordered new wheel bearings but can't figure out how to replace them. Been working on tractors, trucks, boats my whole life and this is embarrassing. '82 F150 straight 6, 4wd, standard trans.
View 4 RepliesI am having trouble big time getting air out of my brake lines. I put new front pads and rotors on and also had to replace the brake line coming from the caliper as it kind of crumbled and needed to replace the next line up that goes to the ABS block on the left front. After doing this, I bled that wheel only and at first it was ok until the brake line on the right front at the caliper also broke when I was pushing on the brake pedal with the truck running, spewing fluid all over. I have tried to bleed using a decent vacuum bleed setup from Advanced Auto but keep getting massive amounts of air coming out and when I start the truck and hit the brake pedal, it goes to the floor. Could the master cylinder be bad? I have checked every connection that I made and all other connections and there are no leaks at all. I am stuck in the garage! The truck is a 1999 F150 4x4 with 4 wheel ABS.
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