Passat (B5) :: 2003 - Car Accelerate Slowly When Push Throttle Full Down
Oct 28, 2012
My car is: Passat 1.9 PDTDI, 2003,AVB(101HP)(200.000km). This is my first diesel car, I bought it two months ago. The car has poor power under 1800-2000rpm. I push the throttle full down and my car accelerate slowly. At 1800-2000rpm kick out and accelerate very fast, but over 3000rpm the car goes limp mode.
2 months ago i had the following error msg: 17965 charge pressure control positive deviation p1557 - 35-10 intermittent.
My turbo was cleaned. No limp mode,but poor power under 1800 rpm.
Now, I have this error msg again. I logged the block 11 with vag-com. The duty cycle is 94,4(2500rpm).
The EGR is disabled. What is the problem? MAP? MAF? Actuator? Turbo?
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I just have a 1999 ES300 that is having a strange issue. I realize this is a toyota forum, but the engines should all be the same.
When you accelerate from a stop at full throttle, the car feels very sluggish moving up the RPM range, and acts as though it is missing and stumbling the entire way up. If you do the same acceleration at lets say 70-80% throttle its much faster and much smoother (like the car is supposed to be). Works just fine until the car hits like 55mph, then power just cuts out.
If I'm revving the car in park or neutral its the same story. Works well at part throttle, but full throttle it misses as its revving up. To me this seems like 100% some kind of weird electrical issue. I'm having a tough time tracking it down though.
Things I have done:
1. At one point i had an VVTi OCV code for the rear bank, so I've replaced both OCV filters, and removed tested and replaced the RH OCV valve (they were both working to spec, but the rear one had a little more play in it).
2. No codes by OBDii scanning.
3. Cleaned MAF
4. Checked intake hoses for rips (there are none)
5. TPS seems to be working well based on OBDii diagnostics.
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A buddy of mine has a stock 1.8t auto with some miles on it. THe car sputters after you come off full throttle and then the check engine light comes on. we have replaced the blue coolant temp sensor and the 4 coils and plugs. car is still doing this.
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My R is vibrating in second gear near full or full throttle around 2,000 Rpm. It feels like a high frequency vibration. It seems to be only happening in that scenario. It's when the turbo spools up and there is a large rush of exhaust gas produced very quickly. My guess is that my apr downpipe paired to the stock cat back is the culprit. It didn't happen when I first put the downpipe on, but after the next track day it started. I don't know if there is anything to burn in inside the apr downpipe but it got louder too. Could it be back pressure from the stock cat back? It's very strange and I wondered if it is stage 2+ but running the stock cat back has felt this? I checked to see if the drive shaft was rubbing on anything and for any other visual indicators of rubbing around the downpipe and I see nothing. Perhaps it's the stock muffler. I'm just not sure.
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2003 f250 6.0.... recently did oil cooler,hpop,ipr,icp,fuel pump,egr valve, rebuilt the turbo.... when around 35mph truck seems sluggish and doesnt seem to pick up quick untill i floor it an then hauls butt.. vgt reading at idle is 62% and when floored around 30 to 35%.. fuel pressure is 63psi.. ipr is around 60 to 70% when floored and around 25% at idle. Hpop reading when floored is 3000 to 4000psi and idle is 624psi....
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I find it hard to smoothly accelerate from a stop with my V6 DSG. I have to be very careful how much pressure I apply to the gas to get a smooth take off...too easy to accelerate to fast or break the tires loose. Can this be reprogrammed?
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The brief information:
1. Stuck/non moving in traffic on the freeway for roughly 1 1/2. During that time the AC was running, but once I noticed my "battery light" on the dash turn on, I turned everything off.
2. Since then while on my way home from work the voltage meter only showed barely 12 volts at full throttle.
3. I charged my battteries, and started it up today to go into work. While going to work the voltage meter showed 14 at its high point, but shortly there after it dropped back down to 12. At which time the battery light came back on.
New battery or alternator?
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My 1995 Audi 90 Sport needs to have the acceleration pedal pushed very far, about half way, before the car begins to to move, also when the pedal is put all the way to the floor the vehicle only goes to around 70mph. And finally I am having trouble finding a shop book for the vehicle.
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I recently acquired a 2000 Golf GTI 1.8 20v that came with a few preexisting issues, one of which being that the alternator will not charge the battery. I've checked my voltage while running "starting with a full charge" and it slowly but steadily declines from 12.09 to 11.0 over a 2-3 minute time span. On the dash the battery light is on and never turns off and my radio does not work at all "even with a full charge". I have already replaced my alternator, battery, battery cable, and the two relays in the engine compartment. The relays in the engine compartment were causing a "ghost" amp draw but that has been resolved. I do not have a 109 relay as I have read that this could be the culprit, when I examined the "under-dash" panel I found that my panel does not have one. I have also replaced the 30amp fuses in the engine compartment fuse box and cleaned the grounds.
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I have a 04 BMW Z4, and noticed a squealing noise when I accelerate slowly.
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In my 4 runner when I slowly accelerate between 30 and 40 mph just as I can hear the car about to shift gear the car begins to shake when I than accelerate the shaking stops. Brought it to a shop and they changed a spark plug and coil they say was mis firing, but I pick the car up and the problem is still there. Their diagnostic shows no problems, yet the shaking is still there when slowly accelerating between 30-40, no check engine light has ever come on. While it shakes if I shift the car from D to 4 the shaking stops, and if I speed hard through 30- 40 it doesn't shake, just when I slowly accelerate.
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I have already logged 6K miles on her, crazy, but it's my job. I have pulled 5 maybe 6 trailers (form trailers, about 15K pounds loaded, this time of year). Loaded or unloaded, when I push the throttle in 2nd, 3rd gear, I feel a shudder, like transmission shudder.I know this thing throws down 800 ft. lbs. of torque, should I not be pushing it so hard? Or, what am I feeling?
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You ever hear hondas reverse? Its that kind of noise. Not extremely loud, but not dead quiet. I'll be in second, bring it to about 3k rpm, and let off the gas, and let it whined down in second. It makes the whining noise. then if I slowly accelerate in second, above 2.5k rpm, it will make the whine again. I don't think it does it under hard acceleration. The car has been running fine. idk what it would be, hopefully not a transmission problem, though I've read some 370z's do this too, the syncros trying to catch up? needs a trani flush? my transmission going? Not sure.
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I have a 2003 vr6 with about 60,000 miles on it and it overheats. I can drive between 35-40 mph and make short trips no problem but when going any faster or accelerate faster than an old lady in a buick, the temp gauge slowly rises(or fast if i accelerate fast.) Until the "stop, check coolant" warning comes on(which i don't let get to that point.) it blows heat all the time, all the hoses get hot, I am no professional by any means but i have dealt with many different overheating issues with other vehicles but I am kind of stumped at what to try first so i don't end up replacing something that doesn't need to be because i do not have the extra $ to do so. The problem started when someone put dirt in my coolant, I flushed out the system twice, the second was just to see if anything else had loosened up that I may have missed the first time..
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I recently had an oil change and 30,000 mile service at a Honda dealer. Car was running perfectly when I took it in, but now infrequently 'moans'. The low moan usually happens after I have driven the car for awhile, at a stop sign and I slowly accelerate to take off. In SF, there are lots of stop signs! As soon as I accelerate to full speed, the noise stops.
Can happen as often as five times in ten mins or not at all if I am only driving on the flat. Have had it back to the dealership numerous times since, test driven it three times with them and only heard the noise once (with a technician). They cannot find a reason for it and seem to have given up.
The car is a 2009, has 16477 miles on it and is under a Honda Care warranty. I purchased the car in 2012 as a preowned certified Honda and have had no problems with it and as I only drive about 3000 miles a year have had no previous services or maintenance issues.
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As said vibration at idle, as I slowly accelerate (in park) the vibration is worse at 1200 rpm, then keep slowly accelerating and at 1800 rpm completely goes away. Doesn't seem like a miss almost like a balance thing. Also when in gear and accelerating it doesn't seem to be there unless I just don't feel it when moving.
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So I finally reached what I considered my break in period at 800 miles and now when I give the car full throttle, it shudders like it's going to stall. I can go as fast as I want at any RPMs but when I give it full throttle it nearly goes into a stall til I let off.
I do have APR STG1 and it is in the correct setting (93 OCT) I tried putting it to stock & running it like that on my drive home & still no go, check engine light is still on.
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Sometimes while driving if i accelerate the car fully the rpms will accelerate way to fast (at least 2x faster than usual) without picking up much speed at all. I can tell that the car is not going to full boost. The problem is the worst in 5th and 6th gear (when the car is relying more on boost im guessing?) and will happen one day and be perfectly fine the next. I just had the car checked for a boost leak about 3 weeks ago so i dont think its that. The car is chipped with uni stage 1+ (20psi) and has a full 3 inch turboback.
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I have a stage 2 2002 GTI with 135k & I'm having an issue once in a while where if I go WOT the car will only boost up to about 5 (around there, don't remember) psi but if I let go and accelerate again, it'll boost normally again.
No lights or CEL comes on when it happens though. I tried searching for any info but not sure what direction to look at. I have a stock K03S, Forge DV, 3" Turboback, Short Ram Intake, FMIC. Bad N75 or DV?
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Just talked to a good friend with a 2008 limited, V6. While his wife was driving the throttle went full, then back to idle, then full while her foot was off the pedal. She put it in neutral got to the side of the road and turned it off. She just had towed to the nearest dealer. She said the dealer suspects the Throttle Position Sensor....seems to be a common problem for Hyundai, based on other issues seen on this forum with some losing power, etc. Surprised there isn't more information from Hyundai as the TPS seems to be a weak point.
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I've noticed on a few occasions that when asking for full throttle to merge on a highway, my car bucks while in 3rd gear (automatic) as the rpms climb above 5k or so. It's almost as if the car is choking on too much air (I do have the SRI) because backing off the throttle slightly immediately stops the bucking. The car does not buck in 2nd gear at the redline. What would cause it?
I'm thinking maybe the spark plug wires are arching or there is a slight crack in one of the coil packs that only manifests under full throttle. Or perhaps the engine really is getting more air than it can handle. I'm at 46k, no mechanical problems, never a check engine light, and the car operates smoothly under all other circumstances. The spark plugs were replaced with NGK platinums at 30k.
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