Accent MC (2006-11) :: Bucking Under Full Throttle While In 3rd Gear
Apr 28, 2012
I've noticed on a few occasions that when asking for full throttle to merge on a highway, my car bucks while in 3rd gear (automatic) as the rpms climb above 5k or so. It's almost as if the car is choking on too much air (I do have the SRI) because backing off the throttle slightly immediately stops the bucking. The car does not buck in 2nd gear at the redline. What would cause it?
I'm thinking maybe the spark plug wires are arching or there is a slight crack in one of the coil packs that only manifests under full throttle. Or perhaps the engine really is getting more air than it can handle. I'm at 46k, no mechanical problems, never a check engine light, and the car operates smoothly under all other circumstances. The spark plugs were replaced with NGK platinums at 30k.
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My accent 2006 has the check engine code p0171. AT mornings I have to start the car like 5 times until it revs up and do not stall. Also when the car is running, If I press the gas too much it starts misfiring and have really slow acceleration. I have already change the 02 Sensor, spark plugs, TPS and maf sensor, and PSV valve, cleaner the throttle. I really don't know what else to look for.
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My R is vibrating in second gear near full or full throttle around 2,000 Rpm. It feels like a high frequency vibration. It seems to be only happening in that scenario. It's when the turbo spools up and there is a large rush of exhaust gas produced very quickly. My guess is that my apr downpipe paired to the stock cat back is the culprit. It didn't happen when I first put the downpipe on, but after the next track day it started. I don't know if there is anything to burn in inside the apr downpipe but it got louder too. Could it be back pressure from the stock cat back? It's very strange and I wondered if it is stage 2+ but running the stock cat back has felt this? I checked to see if the drive shaft was rubbing on anything and for any other visual indicators of rubbing around the downpipe and I see nothing. Perhaps it's the stock muffler. I'm just not sure.
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The transmission shifts into gear and when the clutch is released it starts to crawl forward. When the throttle pedal is pushed it still revs up the engine normally. But when the transmission is in gear and the throttle is pushed it revs up like it is in neutral. At first I thought this might be a transmission problem but then I figured it might be a linkage somewhere. After looking under the hood and under the car I still couldn't see anything that would cause this problem. I had this car less than a week when this happened and I had to be towed home.
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After almost an entire year of trouble-free running (with the exception of replacing a ground strap), my 2009 accent decided to start bucking and shuddering again. It only does this when warmed up, runs perfect cold. In the last 16 months, I've replaced the plugs, coils, battery, PCV valve, and ground strap. Car starts with zero hesitation.
Strong battery and starter, consistent output from alternator. After @5 miles, the car stumbles on acceleration, and idles sporadically. While looking at it tonight, I noticed a few exhaust brackets under the car had broken, and the flex section of the intermediate pipe had torn open. Could this presumed exhaust leak be causing the crap running performance?
(My "exhausted" brain thought it could cause the O2 sensor to misinform the ECM, resulting in the P0300 code I pulled...).
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I have this noise that is cumming from under the car about dead center Engine area its only heard while driving and more as the car has been driven for some time. From speeds 20mph and above only when increasing speed or when full throttle. It wont do it in park or revving it i jack up the car front end and put in drive only front right tire turns but still no noise(is there away for the left tire to turn). Everthing works normal the noise is low and at times only.
2.4L Sonata 68000+miles.
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I have a 2007 accent. I just changed the oil and filter. I typically don't look at the dipstick after I change the oil but this time I did. The dipstick is ready a good 1/4 inch over full after the change. I started the car and let it run for a while and it still reads the same.
I don't see how I put too much oil in, but I am paranoid that I did. Is it typical for this model to read a little over full on the dipstick?
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98 AEB just rebuilt the engine completely, put a K04-15 turbo on it along with a FMIC and a forge diverter/BOV. Everything runs great idles great. when i try to get into it it bucks at 4500+ rpm. when i baby it she runs great smooth sailing. Is this a fuel issue?
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Buddy of mine woke up with a GLI that runs like this. Stage 2 Uni, cold air, 3 inch turbo back. [URL] ....
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I have been experiencing this one for quite a while now. The car is a 2003 GTI VR6 24v. It is stock other than a 3" hole in the bottom of the airbox to pull in cooler air.
When I am sitting in traffic, and in 1st or 2nd gear, keeping a consistent speed (10-15mph) and application of the throttle (not moving my foot at all), the car sometimes just decelerates/hesitates/bucks a little by itself, and kind of feels like it is hiccuping or not getting enough air or something.
At high rpm, or in any gear above 2nd, I don't feel the hesitation and the engine runs great and pulls hard. No MIL lights on the dash, and no other problems with it.
Is this normal for manual VW's? Or maybe the hesitation coming from the engine not getting a consistent airflow from the hole in the airbox?
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I've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai accent 1.6L w/ 190,000 miles. Around Christmas one cold morning right after getting gas at a grimey service station my car started running like crap misfiring badly. Kicking and bucking it barely got me to work (6 miles). I took the car to an Advanced auto and had them plug it in to check the engine light. It was throwing multiple codes P0300 (Multiple Misfire Detected), P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected), P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected). I told the guy at advanced that I thought it was bad gas and he agreed, so I put some dry gas and Lucas oil gas treatment in it. The problem seemed to get better within 50 miles, only misfiring when I drove it hard.
The problem has come back and this time the gas treatments are not working. I am getting the same two codes along with a new code P0133, (HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Slow Response) and the same symptoms, and to top it off my flex pipe has rusted out (for the second time).
So now I don't think the initial problem was water in the gas, and I am not sure what to make of it. The problem seems to happen more noticeably when I push the engine (first gear, and when accelerating) but then seems to get better when maintaining a constant speed. Also, the misfiring happens all the time but more noticeably when the engine gets to running temperature. First gear is by far the worst when the engine is warm.
- The car got a tune (filter(s), plugs wires) up about 6mo ago
- The timing belt is old about 90k on it
- A new crank shaft position sensor a year ago
- New O2 sensor (the 2nd one past flex pipe) 6mo ago
- Burning about 1qt of oil (synthetic) every 3k miles but no smoke
- The car has the original clutch w/ 191k on it!
This is where I stand. I don't care about the flex pipe or the timing belt. Unless I can defiantly pinpoint the problem to one of those two, the car has so many miles on it, to start dumping that kind of money into it doesn't make sense. I have put a spark test light on each of the plugs BUT the problem does not happen when the car is idle so it showed me nothing but properly functioning plugs. I was thinking the ignition coil (its original) but I think that would throw a code.
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I have a 1999 Hyundai Accent manual transmission. It's been a great car but over the past few months there is a problem that the mechanics can't figure out. The car is fine driving initially. Once it's warmed up, parked for about an hour, and started up again, it bucks every time I ease up on the gas. It seems to be worse at slow speeds - 30 or under - but still occurs at higher speeds.
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Searched but did not find. Just bought a 2015 Accent hatchback. Only issue I have had is a lean bucking of the engine if you don't have enough throttle (RPM). From a standing start, the auto trans will shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd very quickly if you are going real slow. I have to give it at least 1/4 throttle and accelerate quickly to keep the trans from shifting too soon. So far I have 2000 miles and 1 oil change, running 93 octane gas. Is this condition normal?
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So I finally reached what I considered my break in period at 800 miles and now when I give the car full throttle, it shudders like it's going to stall. I can go as fast as I want at any RPMs but when I give it full throttle it nearly goes into a stall til I let off.
I do have APR STG1 and it is in the correct setting (93 OCT) I tried putting it to stock & running it like that on my drive home & still no go, check engine light is still on.
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A buddy of mine has a stock 1.8t auto with some miles on it. THe car sputters after you come off full throttle and then the check engine light comes on. we have replaced the blue coolant temp sensor and the 4 coils and plugs. car is still doing this.
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[URL] .... I reviewed the thread but my issues happened all throughout my drive back.
The car started to "buck" between 500-1000 rpm while in 1st gear. Randomly in 5-6th gear it did the same thing ( Car felt like it wanted to shut off in the middle of driving). I also smelled a horrible petrol scent when stopped at a red light. The car never totally died, but it felt like it wanted to the whole time.
What could be the issues? Coil Packs? Bad Gas? Belts? Battery?
My car just had an oil change with amsoil and new vw oil filter. New spark plugs in the summer, fuel filter changed, and rear diff fluid changed.
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My '07 seems to stumble when it's shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. At first I thought it was me as I spent the last six - seven years babying the tranny in my old Ford by 'lift shifting' but I've found it still does it somewhat when I'm accelerating and not letting off to let the car shift. Is this typical for the automatic in the Accent? I had the tranny serviced not 1,200 miles ago in June or July at Firestone and they assured me and showed me their fluid was compatible with SP III.
This happens especially when the car's cold or just warmed up. Seems to mostly but not completely go away after driving for a good half hour or so.
I've only got about a week or two left on the warranty but I also don't want to dump money into diagnostic fees if this is how these modern transmissions behave.
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So I bought a used Accent last July (40k miles), and recently after I started to randomly lose my first gear about a month or so from driving it. Whenever I stop at a light the RPM will hover over one, but not go down. I thought at first it was some weird thing with the sensors as it only happened when I was low on gas, however now it does it every time I drive. I notice a lurch forward right before it does this.
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I noticed this week the gear shift light was out on my 2008 Accent GLS. I tapped the side of it and it came back. Next day, same behavior.
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I own a out of warranty 2008 Accent manual, now on 94 000km/58 408 miles. This morning, it started to not engage 2nd gear, then when I press the pedal hard it does, then sometimes 4th gear. What could be at fault here, and how do I fix it?
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