Accent RB (2012+) :: 2015 - Engine Hesitation / Bucking At Low RPM
Jun 11, 2015
Searched but did not find. Just bought a 2015 Accent hatchback. Only issue I have had is a lean bucking of the engine if you don't have enough throttle (RPM). From a standing start, the auto trans will shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd very quickly if you are going real slow. I have to give it at least 1/4 throttle and accelerate quickly to keep the trans from shifting too soon. So far I have 2000 miles and 1 oil change, running 93 octane gas. Is this condition normal?
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
I've replaced all (3) ignition coils, both O2 sensors, wires and plugs, air filter, fuel filter...Also experience some missing at low rpms as well...not sure what the problem is?
View 4 Replies
2012 Accent Hatchback. ~57k miles. (not yet done the 60k mile service)
So at about 1.4-1.7K rpm I hear a slight squeal and the engine's rpm suddenly jumps down for a second, and you can feel the car shake, then comes back up.
I was able to see it while idling, where the engine simply shook a little, like it's stuttering/sputtering and about to stall, but then immediately recovers and continues to idle normally until it happens again (not very often when in idle, usually more often when getting out of idle and slightly depressing the accelerator)
If I press the accelerator more or harder then I don't get any of it. I'm coming up the 60k mile service, and the schedule recommends inspecting and replacing the belt.
I am wondering if the belt slips on the alternator would you be getting similar symptoms or should I be looking elsewhere? I don't think this matters, but I'll mention it anyways, I'm about 1K miles overdue on an oil change. But I don't think 1k is that big of a deal.
View 14 Replies
2015 Hatchback 25,000 miles ... Have a noisy clock spring? Are there any fixes available?
View 6 Replies
I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
View 11 Replies
When I'm driving and come to a stop for at least two seconds, I hear a slight click/tap noise coming from the rear of the vehicle. Then as soon as I let off the brake, I hear the noise again. I can only hear it with the radio off, and I cannot seem to replicate it when my AC is running. I have Eco mode enabled too. I have no engine/warning lights on my dash, and have no reason to believe my vehicle has an issue; just simply trying to find out what the noise is.
View 2 Replies
I have been experiencing this one for quite a while now. The car is a 2003 GTI VR6 24v. It is stock other than a 3" hole in the bottom of the airbox to pull in cooler air.
When I am sitting in traffic, and in 1st or 2nd gear, keeping a consistent speed (10-15mph) and application of the throttle (not moving my foot at all), the car sometimes just decelerates/hesitates/bucks a little by itself, and kind of feels like it is hiccuping or not getting enough air or something.
At high rpm, or in any gear above 2nd, I don't feel the hesitation and the engine runs great and pulls hard. No MIL lights on the dash, and no other problems with it.
Is this normal for manual VW's? Or maybe the hesitation coming from the engine not getting a consistent airflow from the hole in the airbox?
View 6 Replies
I took my car in for a clutch install, everything was fine except the clutch slipping. I go to pick up my car and once the car warmed up it started bucking / limp mode while accelerating. Take it back to the mechanic and he thinks he didn't reset the throttle body. So he says that should be it and I pull away. Same thing. Leave it with him again and he replaces with "diag" coils and new plugs. Leave again, same thing. He tells me to get totally new coils and try that. I am thinking its a missed ground cable or messed up ECU or something. During all this not one code it thrown.
20th GTI 1.8T 6 speed, stock clutch, all stock
View 14 Replies
Dealer is telling me I need a fuel pressure sensor. I was hoping it would be the PEM which is still under the extended warranty. Is the sensor and the PEM one and the same? By the way, 99% of the time the car runs normally. Assuming the sensor and the PEM are different, could the sensor flat out totally fail at any time?
Dealer is suggesting to replace the negative battery cable!! I remember replacing old cables in my old cars, admittedly many decades ago for a few bucks. Even considering that it is a different world now, can a cable cost that much. Dealer is asking Volvo to consider the sensor as warranty or to participate because I had complained about hesitation more than once starting about five years ago, but they found nothing at that time. My complaint is still in their computer system.
2005 Volvo s40 t5
View 3 Replies
When I am on the highway, my 2005 Excursion (6.0) will hesitate/sputter/buck intermittently, usually between 70-80mph/ 1800-2200 RPM, but especially triggered by hills and inclines. Each sputtering episode usually lasts about 5-10 seconds and then will go away for minutes at a time. Does not sputter upon take off or initial acceleration. There is no smoke of any kind. Just got it out of the shop where the mechanic replaced ALL 8 injectors and the fuel pump, as well as flushed the fuel lines, and new fuel filters, and oil change (2 injectors were bad, but there was metal in the fuel filters, so to be safe I replaced all of them - ALL OEM PARTS for everything, including filters).
The week before, I had the IPR valve replaced. Also, recently had the back pressure sensor replaced and the EGR was deleted - and turbo cleaned when the EGR was deleted last month. I also tried unplugging the ICP sensor to make sure that wasn't the issue. Dropped $6k into this thing in the past month and about to lose my mind (and wallet). All research points to either clogged EGR or bad fuel injectors, but both have been addressed, so I am not sure where to look next. No current codes showing up. No signs of leaking oil.
View 14 Replies
Have just about 1,600 miles on tuck born on 12/14/11. Love it, but.. When going slow in subdivision I am getting some hesitation/bucking when going in the upper 20s/lower 30s. When I feel it I look down and I am usually in 3rd. Is this the transmissible thing? When it happened Sunday it felt like it was going to die. If I start off with a quicker start (to get to highway speed) it shifts fine. It just started the last few weekends......
View 14 Replies
I have driven my brand new 2015 GTI SE manual almost 5 months and have odometer reading 1800 miles. I am pleased with the performance and handling of the car, however experiencing the following issue---- after filling my tank with gas, I have noticed that my car "bucks" for about 5-10 seconds after driving down the road from the gas station. I have also had this "bucking" problem 2 days after fill-up. At first, I thought it was bad gas, but I used 4 different gas stations with the same results. Since the problem is intermittent, I have tried to just tolerate it, and to see if it would go away as the car gets broken in. However, this problem has continued since my first fill-up. The VW dealer service advisor says they can run my car's computer to look for fault codes, but he does know of any tech bulletins on this problem.
View 24 Replies
After almost an entire year of trouble-free running (with the exception of replacing a ground strap), my 2009 accent decided to start bucking and shuddering again. It only does this when warmed up, runs perfect cold. In the last 16 months, I've replaced the plugs, coils, battery, PCV valve, and ground strap. Car starts with zero hesitation.
Strong battery and starter, consistent output from alternator. After @5 miles, the car stumbles on acceleration, and idles sporadically. While looking at it tonight, I noticed a few exhaust brackets under the car had broken, and the flex section of the intermediate pipe had torn open. Could this presumed exhaust leak be causing the crap running performance?
(My "exhausted" brain thought it could cause the O2 sensor to misinform the ECM, resulting in the P0300 code I pulled...).
View 1 Replies
I have a 2002 Hyundai accent 1.6L w/ 190,000 miles. Around Christmas one cold morning right after getting gas at a grimey service station my car started running like crap misfiring badly. Kicking and bucking it barely got me to work (6 miles). I took the car to an Advanced auto and had them plug it in to check the engine light. It was throwing multiple codes P0300 (Multiple Misfire Detected), P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected), P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected). I told the guy at advanced that I thought it was bad gas and he agreed, so I put some dry gas and Lucas oil gas treatment in it. The problem seemed to get better within 50 miles, only misfiring when I drove it hard.
The problem has come back and this time the gas treatments are not working. I am getting the same two codes along with a new code P0133, (HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Slow Response) and the same symptoms, and to top it off my flex pipe has rusted out (for the second time).
So now I don't think the initial problem was water in the gas, and I am not sure what to make of it. The problem seems to happen more noticeably when I push the engine (first gear, and when accelerating) but then seems to get better when maintaining a constant speed. Also, the misfiring happens all the time but more noticeably when the engine gets to running temperature. First gear is by far the worst when the engine is warm.
- The car got a tune (filter(s), plugs wires) up about 6mo ago
- The timing belt is old about 90k on it
- A new crank shaft position sensor a year ago
- New O2 sensor (the 2nd one past flex pipe) 6mo ago
- Burning about 1qt of oil (synthetic) every 3k miles but no smoke
- The car has the original clutch w/ 191k on it!
This is where I stand. I don't care about the flex pipe or the timing belt. Unless I can defiantly pinpoint the problem to one of those two, the car has so many miles on it, to start dumping that kind of money into it doesn't make sense. I have put a spark test light on each of the plugs BUT the problem does not happen when the car is idle so it showed me nothing but properly functioning plugs. I was thinking the ignition coil (its original) but I think that would throw a code.
View 20 Replies
I have a 1999 Hyundai Accent manual transmission. It's been a great car but over the past few months there is a problem that the mechanics can't figure out. The car is fine driving initially. Once it's warmed up, parked for about an hour, and started up again, it bucks every time I ease up on the gas. It seems to be worse at slow speeds - 30 or under - but still occurs at higher speeds.
View 2 Replies
I've noticed on a few occasions that when asking for full throttle to merge on a highway, my car bucks while in 3rd gear (automatic) as the rpms climb above 5k or so. It's almost as if the car is choking on too much air (I do have the SRI) because backing off the throttle slightly immediately stops the bucking. The car does not buck in 2nd gear at the redline. What would cause it?
I'm thinking maybe the spark plug wires are arching or there is a slight crack in one of the coil packs that only manifests under full throttle. Or perhaps the engine really is getting more air than it can handle. I'm at 46k, no mechanical problems, never a check engine light, and the car operates smoothly under all other circumstances. The spark plugs were replaced with NGK platinums at 30k.
View 3 Replies
Just purchased 2015 Camry LE. While taking delivery, I noticed a subtle piston slap that started shortly after the engine started and completely went away after driving the car for about 10 minutes. Most people would not consider it an issue, but I am an engineer working with large industrial engines all the time so it was a concern. I asked to drive another Camry on the lot and it had the same issue. The service manager came out and said that this slap is normal and all 2012 - 2015 Camry with 2AR-FE engine do this. I bought the car anyway since I loved the overall design, ride quality and the features, but the piston slap keeps bothering me.
2012-2015 Camry equipped with 2AR-FE 2.5L engine? In order to check you have to start the cold engine and wait for the RPMs to drop to around 900 which will take 1-2 min. Put your ear in front of the radiator and listed to the subtle metallic tapping noise of the pistons rocking and slapping the bore walls. The noise will last for about 10 minutes until the pistons expand and close the excess gap between them and the bore.
View 14 Replies
So me wife has put on about 7000 miles on her new tdi. It's a dsg, 2012. We brought it in for some warranty work and oil change at 600miles.
She is having bucking forward and back issues in the morning and after the car has sat for a while. When you go to accelerate light throttle it literally jerks forward and back and moves you in your chair when shifting first to second.
Dealer said no codes no updates nothing. I know the dsg is clunky normally but it literally jerks us back and forth in the seat 2 to 3 times or more.
Also when on the highway it surges up and down when cruising 70 to 75 like wind is blowing the car with steady throttle.
I told dealer last visit to reset the dsg gearbox as my wife did 70%traffic driving the first 4000miles. Now it's 90% highway.
View 10 Replies
i have 2015 xse, every time i turn off my car or switch on my car, i hear a continuous Beep sound. i think that sound comes from engine bay area but i was not able to find the actual source.
View 6 Replies
I recently purchased a new 2015 toyota camry XLE v6 and i love it! HOWEVER the remote start feature i have a problem with. I use the Keyfob that came with the car but i just have to press the lock button twice and hold the third time to remotely start the engine. when start the engine with the remote and it starts normally, when i put my hand on the door handle it unlocks normally but when i open the door the engine shuts off and i have to restart the engine when i get in.
No other car i know does this and its annoying. Did they not install it properly? Or can I have it programmed to not shut off the engine when i open the door and just press the start stop button when I get in like any other car. I got an excuse from the dealership that its a security feature on the car but you cant unlock the door without the keyfob being close anyway.
View 11 Replies
I've had this 2012 for several months now but have never really romped on the throttle until yesterday's road trip (not a lead foot driver).
I was driving on the highway at about 55 when I needed to pass so I floored the throttle and - the truck bucked like a wild horse and the power dropped to a low acceleration. Once I backed off the throttle to about half-way the engine took off like "normal".
These symptoms were repeatable throughout my entire 500 mile trip. Is this a known issue with the EB?
View 12 Replies
