Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 Rough And Bucking At Highway And WOT?
Nov 23, 2016
I've had this 2012 for several months now but have never really romped on the throttle until yesterday's road trip (not a lead foot driver).
I was driving on the highway at about 55 when I needed to pass so I floored the throttle and - the truck bucked like a wild horse and the power dropped to a low acceleration. Once I backed off the throttle to about half-way the engine took off like "normal".
These symptoms were repeatable throughout my entire 500 mile trip. Is this a known issue with the EB?
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I have a 2012 4x4 EB CC. In 6th gear, on the highway between 1200-1700 RPM's, during a slow acceleration, it feels like it is missing or shuddering. It is most pronounced going up a hill, and/or towing something. As soon as you get above about 1700, it goes away. Rig needs to be fully warmed up (not just the engine, but tranny/drivetrain). Needless to say, this is generally from about 52-65 mph, which is most highway (not freeway) driving I do. At times it's so bad my wife says it's time to get a Chebby.
Had it in about a year ago, couldn't duplicate it. Took it in this last week. Did the TSB on the plugs, and was told that would fix it. It didn't. Took it back in; they couldn't duplicate the issue. Rotated the tires hoping that might do something. Took the head service guy for a ride, and made it happen; it was very obvious then. It seems like the tachometer should bounce or shudder a bit when it's doing it, but nothing. It's going back in on Monday to see what they can do.
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2012 F-150 5.0 Rough Idle Upon Start up - YouTube
Whenever I first start my 2012 F-150 with the 5.0, it idles rough and if I step on the gas it acts like either an injector is cutting in and out or it's missing. It doesn't really seem like a miss though, more like an injector/fuel issue. What it could be. If I let it sit and idle it won't go away unless I step on the gas and get it > 2500rpm or so.
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This is not on our F150, but rather our Flex that has the 3.5 Ecoboost.
Recently we have been having a bucking problem at lower rpms. Usually when taking off and hitting a slight grade. Doesn't really have a problem at highway speeds. Usually only on takeoff when it shifts through the gears. If you accelerate more, you can stop it for the moment. Weather doesn't make a difference. Also can feel a slighting surging sometimes and can see it on the tack. Like a 2 sec alternating surge. Doesn't do this all the time though. I have replaced plugs with iridium, gapped at 34.
I also purchased two motorcraft coil packs and installed them in different configurations as to see if I could isolate it. No change. I HAVE NO CEL YET. At all. Wish it would! I have tried to make it buck hard enough to throw the code to no avail. I have heard of condensation in the intercooler, but from what I have read it is a higher RPM symptom..This feels just like the COP problem on my 5.4. Unless I have 3 or 4 bad COPS and no CEL. If I could just get a code.
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I bought a 2011 Ecoboost F150 last week. I test drove the crap out of it, and was pleased with it. Go figure, get it home and within a few days, when I put a little foot into it to respond to a call (vol. firefighter) it does the crazy buck me around bit. I do some looking around here and get a little paranoid about the water ingestion thing. It did throw make the CEL flash for 30 secs or so. Then I dig some more and see these things eat spark plugs. I am sitting at 86k miles on it, so I figure, let's try the simple first.
I go pick up some Motocraft plugs and within two mediocre innings of listening to the Angels play, I am finished. I take it out for a test drive, and oh my goodness... the difference. I couldn't get it to buck around or anything. I got on the highway and really got on it, to test and see... no problems whatsoever. Checking the gap on the plugs that came off, they were all between .045 and .050. Moral of my first post.... don't underestimate the importance of the basic maintenance items.
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I'm a converted Chevy man and I don't think my 2011 F150 FX4 is cold enough. I am getting 46 degrees at highway speeds and outside vtemp is 77. My Chevy always get 38-40 in the same situations. What is eveybody getting? Is this normal?
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2010 F150, 165,XXX miles. On a bridge, at highway speed, the transmission locked up and locked the rear wheels. Everyone is OK, but scared the daylights out of my employee and a customer. Bad situation.
After putting it in park, and restarting, it seemed OK. We towed it to the dealership who replaced what I believe was a control chip on the transmission. Dealer said it is a known problem, and they aren't sure if the new controller would fix it?? They would not guarantee if the new controller would prevent the issue (per Ford).
I run a fleet with 7 F150's in it, and this employee is concerned about driving it. I have 3 2010's in the fleet. I am trying to figure out if this is limited to 2010, an incompetent dealer, or?
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Lifting 09-13 F-150 with the two piece drive shaft. I am getting a lot of vibrations at highway speeds(55mph or higher). I have a Pro Comp 6 inch lift that was installed while I was stationed in Alaska. I have the drive shaft spacer that goes on the drive shaft at the pinion. I also have a carrier bearing drop kit from BDS that I am currently experimenting with (trying to find the sweet spot). I am at a loss though because my truck is no longer fun to drive. I drive an hour to work one way and it blows that my truck feels as though it will rattle apart. I have tried doing all the research that I can find about this issue.
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I have a 2014 screw 4x4 v8 that has been in the shop 5 times now for something that the dealership can't duplicate, and that is intermittent enough for me that I can't determine what the conditions need to be in order to duplicate it myself.
My transmission will shift hard under two different situations:
1) when rolling through a stop, or a momentary stop at a stop sign, the transmission holds up between 3 and 1, and when I bring the rpms up, the transmission shifts down into 1, making a hard clunk;
2) at highway speeds, more so when using cruise, if I accelerate and the truck shifts down from 6 to 4, there will be a hard shift as well. In fact, when I'm on a long stretch of flat, open road using cruise at 70-75, I can feel a slight bump through the steering wheel and floorboard, as if the cruise is trying to engage the throttle a bit more, but only for a split second. But that will happen quite a few times within a couple miles until I come up on a grade and the throttle has to engage for a bit longer to keep speed. Sometimes, the hard shift will do occur going to 5 as well, but 90% of the time it will be a 6-4 shift. If the truck decides to shift from 6-3, there's no issue and it shifts and accelerates like it should.
Again, this is so intermittent, but when it happens, it happens several times. I've had the service tech ride in the truck with me, all the while not being able to duplicate the issue. I understand that these are learning transmissions, so the only thing I can think of is when I try to duplicate it by accelerating over and over, that the transmission adjusts the shift pattern or fluid pressure to compensate.
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I have a 2010 F150 XLT crew cab, and I'm the second owner. Ever since I have owned the truck, it has had a pretty bad shake/vibration at highway speeds, that gets worse with higher speed. I have checked the alignment multiple times, rotated tires, had them re-balanced, and I still cannot figure out what is causing this. What else should I be checking?
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This morning (roughly freezing temperature - nothing out of the ordinary after the brutal winter we just had) got onto the highway to head to work and set the cruise control (as normal) at approx 110km/h (65mph) and after several seconds heard a distinct, quite unpleasant grinding noise. It was loud enough to be heard over the heater and radio. Turned the heater and radio off to listen closer and didn't like the sound of it - sounded like metal on metal.
There was no different feel in the floor, pedals or steering wheel. As soon as I turned cruise control off, the noise disappeared! Turned cruise control back on, and the noise returned approx 5 seconds later. If I continued driving along normally and sustained a certain speed, the noise would appear after 5 seconds again and only go away once I lifted off the gas or coasted down a hill... Very bizarre. Once I got to work and poked my head underneath didn't immediately notice anything out of the ordinary - no funny smells or anything...
Background info: 2011 FX4 ecoboost, crew cab. Stock, no modifications. Approx 134,000km (~80,000 miles)...
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I have a 2010 ford f-150. My fuel door swings loose and the cover came off on the highway. Where I can get another one? I need to replace the whole thing.
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2010 4x4 F150 Lariat 5.4 L, have been working on throttle response problems off and on for a few months. Initially got p0404 codes, and replaced the accel pedal assembly, now graduated to p2135 code, and stall at idle after a highway trip. Wondering if this may be a issue with aftermarket air filter causing misread errors on sensors. Had it to the dealer, with out any real remedy.
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I just purchased a new 2014 accent . It's unstable on the highway. side to side movement. Do the accent steering can be set to sport mode?
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I have recently picked up an older F350 2WD 7.3 DRW Lariat. the price was right higher miles but hey it is a 7.3, overall in very good shape.
So the issue at hand is the truck runs great most of the time and puttering around at city speeds you would never know there is any issue;
Get the truck out on the highway set the cruse at 70 to 72 and if you hit a rise in the road or other reason to slightly accelerate the truck chugs and bucks. For lack of a better description it goes chug chug chug, if you accelerate harder to downshift it goes away or if you back off the throttle it goes away. This happens with cruse on or off, a steady foot on the pedal will cause this as well.
I have also noticed that when you let off the throttle the sound the truck makes de-fueling is just very different and "off" sounding . Not sure how to describe it but it sounds funky ... clearly not right when compared to other 7.3 or my 6.0 truck.
What I have done, :
1. Had the truck scanned with an AE and a snap-on scanner both show no codes ran injector tests no contribution errors, not even in # 8.
2. Changed fuel filter
3. Changed Oil and Filters ( tried both full synthetic Rotella and Dino oil looking for a difference )
4. Cleaned out the fuel filter housing just in case.
5. Confirmed injector O-Rings are not leaking
This feels like a fuel issue, my next thought was start looking at fuel pressure under load at speed to see if there was a drop when this is happening ?
Is there a way to test fuel pumps in this truck ? Maybe a clogged pick-up screen ? Where do I start looking next ? I have reasonable mechanical skills but don't know this motor very well, this doesn't seem like a CPS issue..
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The other day I was backing our TT up the driveway. The engine sounded almost like a diesel, and was running rough.
Our driveway is not flat, but it is darn close. The TT is a small lightweight one, so I was not pushing a lot of weight either.
My truck has also done this while just backing up the driveway to park in the garage.
If I rev it up it smooths out, but then may drop back down to run rough again or smooth out. Totally unpredictable.
No codes are thrown. Is this more of the crappy cam phaser junk?
I run Motorcraft Oil/Oil filters and change at the recommended intervals.
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I have a new to me 2005 F150 SuperCab Lariat 4x4 with 155,000 miles on it. About a week ago I replaced the from passenger hub assembly and half shaft (torn boot). When doing that, I noticed that the IWE actuator was not working right (would not compress evenly). When taking that off, there was a bunch of rust that came out of the vacuum line ports. It started moving freely after cleaning all of that out that I could (I will be replacing it soon). I assembled everything back together and all seemed OK mechanically.
I also scanned the truck and saw the code for a bad IWE solenoid so that is being replaced tonight. I also have not checked the drivers side yet.
So...now that I have done all of that, the truck started occasionally bucking/shuddering when I slow down from highway speed to about 30mph and lightly accelerate again. It does not do it every time though. There is no grinding/whining noises either. Could this be caused by the IWE system somehow? Maybe slowing losing vacuum and having one engage and the other disengaged?
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For the last few months my truck shifts rough between 2e and 3e gear. However it only does this first thing in the morning, when I leave the house I speed up until the end of the street, then when I let go of the gas it'll rev up a bit and shift from 2e to 3e while making a big clunking noise which I can definitely feel ...
It does it sometimes very rough and sometimes just a little bit. I used to not worry about it but i'm starting to wonder if something is wrong with my trans. Could it have something to do with the slip yoke?
Truck: f150 2009 xlt 4x4 supercab 6,5' box.....
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2010 F150 4.6L 2V, 50k miles. Have recently developed an issue with an extremely rough idle with the AC on and trans in Drive. If in park, the idle is high enough that it is much less noticeable. I have cleaned my throttle body, and MAF sensor ? After this , I disconnected battery for about 30mins and let the computer reset. After a long drive today, it is still happening. This engine has the servo controlled throttle body, and therefore no IAC valve that I can identify. I would assume that the idle increase necessary for the AC to be on would come from the servo controlled throttle body itself with no need for an external IAC. The idle in Drive with the AC on will drop to 500 RPM or less and it is very rough. Is there a procedure for a recalibration of the servo throttle body that I could try ?
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2012 5.0 getting about 13 mpg other saying they get 17 mpg.....
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I'm going on a slight curved highway at 70mph. If I let go of the steering wheel, the car maintains course following the curvature of the lane. The steering doesn't straighten itself out like doing a normal turn. Noticed this? Is this a "feature"?
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