I have a 2010 F150 XLT crew cab, and I'm the second owner. Ever since I have owned the truck, it has had a pretty bad shake/vibration at highway speeds, that gets worse with higher speed. I have checked the alignment multiple times, rotated tires, had them re-balanced, and I still cannot figure out what is causing this. What else should I be checking?
View 14 RepliesI was driving yesterday and I noticed at highway speeds the hood vibrates. I have a 2011 RX with 62000kms on it.
View 7 RepliesI have a Lexus RX 350 and about a month and a half ago I got the rack and pinion replaced. Pretty shortly after, as I was driving highways speeds somewhere in the 60-70 range, it started to feel a little rough, as if I was driving over rough pavement, but it was brand new blacktop. I put the brakes on and the vehicle started to vibrate, not the steering wheel though. After I braked, the rough sound and vibration didn't come back until a week or two ago, it's been happening intermittently and very seldom, maybe has happened a total of 5 or 6 times, but I'm concerned because it never did this before the rack and pinion. I got it all done on a Saturday, alignment was involved too, so I wonder if maybe someone hurried themselves and didn't do something to protocol.
View 2 RepliesLifting 09-13 F-150 with the two piece drive shaft. I am getting a lot of vibrations at highway speeds(55mph or higher). I have a Pro Comp 6 inch lift that was installed while I was stationed in Alaska. I have the drive shaft spacer that goes on the drive shaft at the pinion. I also have a carrier bearing drop kit from BDS that I am currently experimenting with (trying to find the sweet spot). I am at a loss though because my truck is no longer fun to drive. I drive an hour to work one way and it blows that my truck feels as though it will rattle apart. I have tried doing all the research that I can find about this issue.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2014 screw 4x4 v8 that has been in the shop 5 times now for something that the dealership can't duplicate, and that is intermittent enough for me that I can't determine what the conditions need to be in order to duplicate it myself.
My transmission will shift hard under two different situations:
1) when rolling through a stop, or a momentary stop at a stop sign, the transmission holds up between 3 and 1, and when I bring the rpms up, the transmission shifts down into 1, making a hard clunk;
2) at highway speeds, more so when using cruise, if I accelerate and the truck shifts down from 6 to 4, there will be a hard shift as well. In fact, when I'm on a long stretch of flat, open road using cruise at 70-75, I can feel a slight bump through the steering wheel and floorboard, as if the cruise is trying to engage the throttle a bit more, but only for a split second. But that will happen quite a few times within a couple miles until I come up on a grade and the throttle has to engage for a bit longer to keep speed. Sometimes, the hard shift will do occur going to 5 as well, but 90% of the time it will be a 6-4 shift. If the truck decides to shift from 6-3, there's no issue and it shifts and accelerates like it should.
Again, this is so intermittent, but when it happens, it happens several times. I've had the service tech ride in the truck with me, all the while not being able to duplicate the issue. I understand that these are learning transmissions, so the only thing I can think of is when I try to duplicate it by accelerating over and over, that the transmission adjusts the shift pattern or fluid pressure to compensate.
My 2010 F-150 has a vibrating noise that seems to be coming from within the dash. The noise starts around 40mph to 50mph. It stops if I let off the gas or I accelerate. I cannot figure out where or what is causing this.
View 3 Replies2006 Passat 2.0T ... Took the car for an oil change (non VW dealer) a few weeks back and about a week after the car started experiencing some vibrating/shaking from, I assume, the engine. This only occurs when the car is idling or at very low speeds.
It wasn't a typical shaking from side to side that you'd experience from most engines. The car was jumping front to back. It almost felt like stalling a manual transmission car. The revs jump slightly, about 100-200 rpm. It feels like the car wants to lurch forward and break free of the brakes. Now on some days this isn't a problem and on other days it's an issue.
Engine noise is a bit louder than usual. Sounds like the belts or the fan, but nothing is lose and the fan is working. I don't feel like all the power is there either, especially in lower gears and on take offs.
Ran the diagnostics, it didn't bring up anything other than some issues with the spark plugs and the coils. They were replaced but nothing changed with the problems. I have noticed oil level drop but there are no oil leaks anywhere.
2010 F150, 165,XXX miles. On a bridge, at highway speed, the transmission locked up and locked the rear wheels. Everyone is OK, but scared the daylights out of my employee and a customer. Bad situation.
After putting it in park, and restarting, it seemed OK. We towed it to the dealership who replaced what I believe was a control chip on the transmission. Dealer said it is a known problem, and they aren't sure if the new controller would fix it?? They would not guarantee if the new controller would prevent the issue (per Ford).
I run a fleet with 7 F150's in it, and this employee is concerned about driving it. I have 3 2010's in the fleet. I am trying to figure out if this is limited to 2010, an incompetent dealer, or?
Is this behavior normal: I test drove a 2010 corolla LE with 4-spd auto, 41K miles. Noticed that on level highway 60 mph that whenever I eased up on the gas that the RPMs would shoot down. Vehicle speed was barely decelerating since I was on level. As soon as gas reapplied (gently), then the RPMs would shoot up. I'm guessing the delta was like 300 RPM. I get the impression that at highway speeds the car is mostly in 3rd gear or shifting up and down a lot. I've read a lot about a TSB for 2011 corollas but nothing for 2010. And I think that problem is different. So my question is whether this is "normal" for driving at highway speeds?
View 5 RepliesJust rotated my tires this weekend and noticed today that the steering wheel has a vibration in it at highway speeds, 65-70mph. It did not do this at all before I rotated the tires, why it's doing it now? Tires are fairly new and Bridgestones H/Ts.
I know my rotors are warped and need replaced but the vibration I'm referring to is when I am not braking.
I have a 2010 F150 5.4 with 43k miles. When approaching traffic lights or making a turn and you are approaching idle speeds the truck will start to stall out then ultimately shut off, causing me to loose all functions. It has cause my wife to almost get into a couple of major crashes. Sometimes when trying to start it back up it acts like it is not getting any gas it just keeps turning over. I took it in and it could not be diagnosed because they could not duplicate the problem. This will happen for a couple of days and then be fine for a month or two then start right back at it.
View 2 RepliesHad upper and lower ball joints replaced a few hundred miles ago and the truck had run just fine. Just replaced the the front bearings, axle seals, left axle shaft (Spicer brand) and right U-joint. Now at highway speeds if I hit just the right bump the front of the truck will start to shake and within a few seconds the shaking is violent, almost have to come to a complete stop for shaking to stop. What is causing this?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Nissan maxima and at first it used to shake at around 50mph, took it to the shop they looked into the suspension, did wheel balance, changed 2 front tires and wheel alignment and they said it should be fixed. A week later, it started shacking at around 70 mph, what else should I do to get ride of this problem?
View 1 RepliesI just bought the car a less then a month highway speeds car shakes at 120km/h. I just complained to Toyota dealer ship and they put on brand new front rotors and did alignment at highway speeds the car still is shaking and it pulls to the left can it just be tires alone or back rotors because they didn't replace those.
View 6 RepliesNoticed the seat shaking when at highway speeds or when you go over bumps in the road? When my seats are empty, they shake and make an annoying rattle, shakey noise. I had them looked at by Hyundai and was told that there was nothing that Hyundai was going to do to fix them. After battling that for a while, Hyundai did reimburse me a car payment for me to "live with it" and, quite frankly, to shut me up.
View 5 Replies I drive a 2004 chevy Tahoe and have had this problem for about 8 months. It started out very faint and occasional, but has now escalated to loud and consistent. So it ONLY happens when turning right. I've tried to replicate it when turning left and had no success. It happens when I am turning fairly hard at a decent speed. ex. Pulling into my driveway. I've already checked the wheel bearings and Ball joints.
Another thing is that the ABS light is on sometimes when i start the car and comes on every time i turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. It also has a problem where it will shake almost uncontrollably when driving at 65+MPH after hitting a bump or sometimes just randomly on a smooth surface. We just got new tires and balanced them. It did the same with the previous set we had. I know I'm asking for a lot, but where to start?
Since most of us on this forum drive pick-up trucks, we're all accustomed to them riding, well, like a truck. We fully expect them to bounce around a little bit, right? However, one should not expect to be annoyed by noises inside the cab. For instance, my passenger seat bounces around like a baby's bouncy chair, even when the road is smooth. Surely, I'm not the only one noticing this! How do I shut-up my passenger seat???
2010 Platinum 4X4 SCREW
I recently noticed my brand new truck with 5k miles has been making a humming /vibrating noise when shifting and when RpMs are above 2k. What this could be? It's a 2014 F150 stx 3.7 ....
View 4 RepliesMy daughter's 2010 v6 Fusion has stalled twice (without warning) in the last month at 65+ mph. The dealer reported that since no fault codes were set, there were no repairs they could make to correct this very dangerous situation from recurring. What repairs were made to correct the problem. The car has only 23k miles and has been well maintained at the dealer.
View 3 Replies2014 F250 SuperDuty 6.2L gasser, x-cab long bed work truck. 105k miles, original owner, 1 driver, mostly highway miles, well maintained and super clean truck.
First issue occurred at 83k miles, Aug 2016. Warm summer day climbing I-70 in CO, slightly loaded, and just entered the Eisenhower tunnel (11,150' altitude). Lost power, no RPMs - not running, I put it in N and rolled as far as I could. Hazards on and no-where to pull over, hugging the wall and blocking one lane. Power OK - will crank, no fire. 1/3 tank on the fuel gauge and >100 miles distance to empty on the trip computer. Tunnel rescue shut down traffic and pushed me out into the daylight.
After waiting an hour to fill our paper work for disabling the interstate tunnel I returned to the truck which quickly started. No symptoms, no lights, no codes. Topped off the fuel tank after a easy 15 mile drive downhill. Drove another 800 miles symptom free to my destination and checked it in at the dealer. At this time a check engine light had finally illuminated - PO420. I shared the story of stalling out at highway speeds with the Service Writer. Dealer replaced the cats, confirmed fuel pressure OK, computer condition OK, serviced the trans (at my request).
No symptoms reoccurred during the next 20k miles until last weekend. 105k on the OD now. Heading to Flagstaff, AZ on I-40 in similar conditions. Hot, AC running, climbing in elevation, slightly loaded, running on the bottom 1/3 of the fuel tank... Died while cruising at 79 mph. Well, at least this time I wasn't in a tunnel and had a shoulder to pull off on. Deja-Vu - full power, radio on, no engine lights, gauges normal, fuel reads over 1/4 tank, >100 miles till empty on the trip computer - won't start. Cranks, but no fire. Some sputtering during start attempts must have triggered the next trouble code.
Opened the hood, removed the gas cap, let it vent and cool for about 30-40 mins while I took a walk. Returned to the truck which easily started and let me drive to the next fuel station, 30 miles away. This time the check engine light stayed illuminated. It took 24 gals of fuel. Drove 3 more hours and almost 200 miles without symptoms - check engine light still illuminated keeping me curious and fully alert along the way.
Got the codes pulled at a parts store that was open on Sunday. PO300 & PO301. Random misfires and cylinder 1 misfires. Sounds consistent with poor fuel supply? Spent the rest of the day searching forums for any clue to this highway stalling. All I came up with was to clear the computer - disconnect battery, turn lights on, wait 15 mins, reconnect battery, start engine, apply brake, drive, etc. This and another full tank of gas gave me enough courage to set out on my trip home.
Next occurrence was just outside of Santa Fe, NM. Similar conditions again: Hot day, AC kicking, Interstate travelling about 80mph, slightly loaded, climbing in elevation, fuel tank just below half - stalled out. Repeat previous learned routine. Open hood, vent gas cap, walk it off for 30 mins, return to truck, start it up. Drive to next town and top off with fuel about 30 miles away - only took 16 gals! Made it home 4 hours later without stopping. No repeat symptoms, no check engine lights.
The next day a code - PO420. Catalytic efficiency below threshold.
Quick recap:
6.2L gas engine stalling at hwy speeds.
Cruising between 65-80mph
-Interstate travel - no stops between last fillup and stall.
-Warm weather, AC on
-Running on bottom ~1/2 tank
-climbing in elevation, slightly loaded
To clarify: slightly loaded - no trailer, maybe 1,500 lbs bed cargo, mostly wind drag. The most I have pumped into the fuel tank is 29-30 gals or so. I assume I have the 34 or 35 gal tank. Never seen the calculated "distance to empty" below 40 miles.
I've had my IS 250 F-Sport for exactly 6 months now, and over the last month I've noticed that when I'm pulling in to park or backing out (at a very low speed) with my steering wheel turned right or left from the center, I hear and feel some shaking/vibration from the car. I can't pinpoint if it only happens with the A/C on.
I live about 3 hrs away from my Lexus dealer now, and my first maintenance appointment is at the end of the month. I'm pretty disturbed. I have about 4500 miles on the car.