Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Bucking At Lower RPMs
Dec 17, 2015
This is not on our F150, but rather our Flex that has the 3.5 Ecoboost.
Recently we have been having a bucking problem at lower rpms. Usually when taking off and hitting a slight grade. Doesn't really have a problem at highway speeds. Usually only on takeoff when it shifts through the gears. If you accelerate more, you can stop it for the moment. Weather doesn't make a difference. Also can feel a slighting surging sometimes and can see it on the tack. Like a 2 sec alternating surge. Doesn't do this all the time though. I have replaced plugs with iridium, gapped at 34.
I also purchased two motorcraft coil packs and installed them in different configurations as to see if I could isolate it. No change. I HAVE NO CEL YET. At all. Wish it would! I have tried to make it buck hard enough to throw the code to no avail. I have heard of condensation in the intercooler, but from what I have read it is a higher RPM symptom..This feels just like the COP problem on my 5.4. Unless I have 3 or 4 bad COPS and no CEL. If I could just get a code.
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I've had this 2012 for several months now but have never really romped on the throttle until yesterday's road trip (not a lead foot driver).
I was driving on the highway at about 55 when I needed to pass so I floored the throttle and - the truck bucked like a wild horse and the power dropped to a low acceleration. Once I backed off the throttle to about half-way the engine took off like "normal".
These symptoms were repeatable throughout my entire 500 mile trip. Is this a known issue with the EB?
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I bought a 2011 Ecoboost F150 last week. I test drove the crap out of it, and was pleased with it. Go figure, get it home and within a few days, when I put a little foot into it to respond to a call (vol. firefighter) it does the crazy buck me around bit. I do some looking around here and get a little paranoid about the water ingestion thing. It did throw make the CEL flash for 30 secs or so. Then I dig some more and see these things eat spark plugs. I am sitting at 86k miles on it, so I figure, let's try the simple first.
I go pick up some Motocraft plugs and within two mediocre innings of listening to the Angels play, I am finished. I take it out for a test drive, and oh my goodness... the difference. I couldn't get it to buck around or anything. I got on the highway and really got on it, to test and see... no problems whatsoever. Checking the gap on the plugs that came off, they were all between .045 and .050. Moral of my first post.... don't underestimate the importance of the basic maintenance items.
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Looking at the specs, the screw 5.5' truck's cab height is 76.7" (4x4). For the 6.5' bed, that cab height is 75.6".
This seems to be true for most of the configurations: the shorter, the taller.
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2014 fx4 6.2. Had a coolant leak. Brought to dealer for warranty work. Found a leak in middle lower tube area. Said they replaced radiator part # BL3Z-8005-D. It sure looks like my old radiator still under the hood complete with squished bugs. Am I missing something?
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Having problem with the lower radiator hose rubbing on the serpentine belt...
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Have just about 1,600 miles on tuck born on 12/14/11. Love it, but.. When going slow in subdivision I am getting some hesitation/bucking when going in the upper 20s/lower 30s. When I feel it I look down and I am usually in 3rd. Is this the transmissible thing? When it happened Sunday it felt like it was going to die. If I start off with a quicker start (to get to highway speed) it shifts fine. It just started the last few weekends......
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I have a 2009 f150 fx4 it will not blow cold air or heat on any setting. I have replaced the resistor and it stopped working again if i smack the black box the resistor is in it will work again. My question is where is the blower motor and how hard of a job is it to change. I just ordered the motor.
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On my '12 F-150 Ecoboost there is a substantial opening in the lower center of the vehicle. I know that you can purchase a small after-market grill insert for that area. Is it wise to do that, or is in fine the way it is?
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Mounting the shock with the boot up or down? I know it doesn't matter according to Bilstein but one way has to be better than the other.
Second. What are the torque specs for the upper and lower bolts? I know the lower front is around 350lbs but haven't found anything for the rest. found out the rear bolts are torqued to 66lb.
Third. The front shocks didn't come with a boot to protect the shaft. Is one needed when the shock is installed?
Truck is a 2012 F150 FX4.
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Used to own a F250 so I am new to the F150. I am currently in a 2014 F150 fx4 with about 10k miles on it. I noticed when the truck is shifting into 3rd (normal acceleration)the rpms once in third remain around 1800 then drop to 1400ish after about 2 seconds or so while still in third (almost like its shifting again). What it is?
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I noticed a pool of very clear oil on my garage floor. Looking under the truck I can see the lower control arm on the front drivers side covered in fresh oil. It looks like it's the shock absorber leaking. I just rolled over the 4,000 mile mark. I'm dreading taking it in to my nearby dealer. This is most likely a week long fix with how they operate. 2014 FX2...
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Basically, when I just cruise in say 6th gear, and then step a little on the gas (or there is a hill), the engine rpm's jump up by like maybe 500 rpm's without a noticeable increase in speed, and there is no downshifting either.
I am sure this is normal, right? So what is the transmission doing? Coming from manuals only in the past, this seems strange.
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I just purchased my brand new 2014 F150 4x4 STX 5.0L single cab short box about a month ago. I noticed when I drove it off the lot that it had a slight vibration at low RPMs. I boiled it down to brand new stuff working out all the kinks and running around for the first time, bought a brand new jeep in 2005 and it made interesting noises and had funny vibrations for a while, but this is starting to get annoying. I have a very noticeable vibration at low RPMs both in park and while driving, more noticeable at speeds between 35-45 with RPMs anywhere from idle to 1500 or so.
I have not had it at the dealer yet, I want to be armed with a little bit of knowledge when I go in an talk to them if possible. I know how stealerships work and since it seems similar problems are somewhat common in these newer F150s, I don't want to get the "oh it's common in these trucks and perfectly normal". In my opinion a brand new truck should run smoother than melted butter on hot flapjacks, especially one that only has 1400 miles on it.
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I have a 2011 F250 6.2L Was working great until the other day when I went to hit the gas and the RPMs dropped and the truck shut off. I tried to restart which it would do for maybe a second and then shut down again. I checked the fuel line going to the top of the engine with the key switch on and there was not very good fuel pressure. so I thought my fuel pump was bad. After switching the fuel pump, the truck still starts and immediately shuts off. I checked the fuel line again and this time it is giving an initial burst of fuel for a second and then nothing. What else it could be?
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I recently noticed my brand new truck with 5k miles has been making a humming /vibrating noise when shifting and when RpMs are above 2k. What this could be? It's a 2014 F150 stx 3.7 ....
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2010 F150 ... So I have the tick noise at rpm's 800-1000 at drive through, stops, etc. So I did research on it a few months ago and saw that it might be VCT's but should be able to drive. so I drove it waiting to save money and have it go to a shop. well this past weekend while coming home from work my oil light came on the pressure dropped to zero, I was on the highway so I drove about another mile to get off highway and once I got off my truck died. I had it towed to my house and I thought I blew my motor. So I started doing research here and found that the VCT's AND cam Phaser could be bad. so I replaced my VCT on driver side put it all back together it started and loud knock was gone. then after 5 mins it was back very loud knock!
So I shut it down and took apart the passenger side once I got the valve cover off I found the problem.... The bolt that holds the cam phaser in place snapped off and was riding along the camshaft. So I took that out and extracted remaining part of bolt. inspected my camshaft and it was really messed up. so I bought new Phaser and Camshaft. the camshaft just came in today and I am trying to put it back in. but the hole for the pin in the phaser doesn't line up and I cant spin the shaft to make it line up. should I spin the cam phaser? I marked the chain and the phaser is where it should be on chain, but with that bolt snapping off could that have thrown the timing off so my mark is no good? when I lay the camshaft in place it sits perfect and if I just move the phase over 2-3 links it will all fit together. Should I do that?
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I have recently purchased a 2011 F150 Ext cab with 3.5L ecoboost with 69k miles. I have no experience with these engines prior to now. I've always wanted a full size truck and after driving my 98 S10 for 17 years, I decided it was time for a new truck. I hope I made the right choice in going for the 3.5 instead of 5.0.
On to my question. I've noticed that the truck hesitates from a dead stop or anytime the RPM's are under 1k. It feels like its missing or running lean/rich during the spin up of RPM's. When I drive it hard, it does seem to subside for a little, and I've heard people say that they run better when run hard. I can attest to that, but is this hesitation normal for an almost 70k mile engine? I am getting 15ish MPG on almost all city driving since I have bought it, but I do expect that to change (job hunting and current commute is less than 2 miles each way).
The only time I get to open it up is when I go run errands out of the immediate local area or visiting friends and family. On one of those trips, before I noticed the hesitation, I attempted to accelerate from 60 to pass on the expressway and it bucked and resisted like a horse. It finally took off up to 80 and completed that journey with no issue but the check engine light came on for a bit. The check engine light went off when I shut it down and hasn't come back on since.
New ride: 2011 3.5L Ecoboost....
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I have a 2012 4x4 EB CC. In 6th gear, on the highway between 1200-1700 RPM's, during a slow acceleration, it feels like it is missing or shuddering. It is most pronounced going up a hill, and/or towing something. As soon as you get above about 1700, it goes away. Rig needs to be fully warmed up (not just the engine, but tranny/drivetrain). Needless to say, this is generally from about 52-65 mph, which is most highway (not freeway) driving I do. At times it's so bad my wife says it's time to get a Chebby.
Had it in about a year ago, couldn't duplicate it. Took it in this last week. Did the TSB on the plugs, and was told that would fix it. It didn't. Took it back in; they couldn't duplicate the issue. Rotated the tires hoping that might do something. Took the head service guy for a ride, and made it happen; it was very obvious then. It seems like the tachometer should bounce or shudder a bit when it's doing it, but nothing. It's going back in on Monday to see what they can do.
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I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 12v. I'm having an issue with backfiring. Also, I am having a severe issue with bucking. Sometimes it will not happen at all, and when it does happen it can occur from 2300-5500 RPMs. No matter how hard or soft I am on the throttle, it will hit this point, different everytime, and the throttle will cut out, then pick up, then cut out, then pick up.
Now, I know my MAF is throwing a few codes. But it was throwing codes for a month before this started, maybe longer,and the only symptoms were backfiring and a little lag at startup. However, the same night my issue began, I also developed a coolant leak. Upon inspection, the coolant leak path was traveling directly over my CKP sensor where it connects to the engine block, which also began throwing a code. The car starts fine, idles fine, and never stalls or dies. So my options here are replace the MAF if that seems likely to be the issue, or to attempt using liquid electrical tape to prevent the leak from hitting my CKP sensor.
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I own a 2009 ford explorer 4wd 5 speed auto with only 44,000 miles when I drive using overdrive just before it shifts into overdrive it bucks and when I slow down below 50 mph before it will down shift to 4th gear it bucks. I have had the suv to a ford dealer repair service 2 times and they ran a diagnostic computer check on it both times and found nothing. What I need to do next?
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