Accent RB (2012+) :: Slight Hesitation - RPM Suddenly Jumps Down For A Second Then Comes Back Up
May 14, 2014
2012 Accent Hatchback. ~57k miles. (not yet done the 60k mile service)
So at about 1.4-1.7K rpm I hear a slight squeal and the engine's rpm suddenly jumps down for a second, and you can feel the car shake, then comes back up.
I was able to see it while idling, where the engine simply shook a little, like it's stuttering/sputtering and about to stall, but then immediately recovers and continues to idle normally until it happens again (not very often when in idle, usually more often when getting out of idle and slightly depressing the accelerator)
If I press the accelerator more or harder then I don't get any of it. I'm coming up the 60k mile service, and the schedule recommends inspecting and replacing the belt.
I am wondering if the belt slips on the alternator would you be getting similar symptoms or should I be looking elsewhere? I don't think this matters, but I'll mention it anyways, I'm about 1K miles overdue on an oil change. But I don't think 1k is that big of a deal.
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Last night i noticed a slight hesitation during acceleration. Today i had driven around in town for awhile and did not notice any hesitation. When i got onto the interstate I pushed down the peddle to pass someone and it did nothing, I let off the gas and back on and the car bucked pretty bad. All the way home it has issues when I pressed on the gas but did fine at cruising speed. I would think a fuel filter would have been a slow progression issue so I am thinking maybe it is a sensor. I sprayed carb cleaner around vacuum hoses today and did not notice any surge so I think I eliminated a vacuum issue.
2004 Santa Fe 2.7 149k
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Searched but did not find. Just bought a 2015 Accent hatchback. Only issue I have had is a lean bucking of the engine if you don't have enough throttle (RPM). From a standing start, the auto trans will shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd very quickly if you are going real slow. I have to give it at least 1/4 throttle and accelerate quickly to keep the trans from shifting too soon. So far I have 2000 miles and 1 oil change, running 93 octane gas. Is this condition normal?
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Nearly new Camry with 9,000 miles. When trying to get back up to speed after making right or left turns, there is a definite hesitation before accelerating. No hesitation when accelerating from a dead stop. Also transmission kicks down at very small hills/grades where if not on cruise control, it would not need to "kick down" to maintain speed. This is a 4 cylinder engine and provides adequate power when not running in "cruise". I suppose this is just the nature of the breed. Except for these two small problems, it is a fine comfortable car.
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I have a 2012 Toyota Camry and I noticed that when I am on a slight upward hill, my Camry will slowly roll back if I don't have my brake pedal applied. Does this happen to you and is it normal? This is my first new car and my old car which was a 94 lincoln never did this even on very steep hills.
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I have a 2010 with about 166k miles. I am getting a slight hesitation at slight acceleration or constant speed. It does not matter if it's on highway or freeway speeds. Now I am not sure if this in junction with me changing the PCV valve, cleaning the EGR pipe, or cleaning the TB for carbon recently. It started happening a week after it though.
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My 2003 Camry loses power and starts to hesitate or miss-like under load, but when cruising along not under load it runs smooth. There is no check engine light coming on.
I have changed the fuel pump and fuel filter in the tank.
I have changed the spark plugs.
I have added injector cleaner and fuel treatment to the fuel.
I have cleaned the air filter and air filter compartment.
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So, I just got home and turned off the ignition. I then accidentally clicked off ECO. When I went to press the button again, it lights up and it does on my dash as well, but once I let go of the button, they are both off. I thought this had something to do with the car being off, so I started it and I still couldn't get ECO to go on.
Am I doing something wrong or is it possible that the button is broken?
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When I'm driving and come to a stop for at least two seconds, I hear a slight click/tap noise coming from the rear of the vehicle. Then as soon as I let off the brake, I hear the noise again. I can only hear it with the radio off, and I cannot seem to replicate it when my AC is running. I have Eco mode enabled too. I have no engine/warning lights on my dash, and have no reason to believe my vehicle has an issue; just simply trying to find out what the noise is.
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When I accelerate to merge onto the highway or pass my battery light blinks as well as my headlight flickering and a slight loss in power. My car has 140k miles on it, original battery which seems to test fine on my charger. I just change the spark plugs.
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Since about 5000 km, I have had a knocking metal rattling sound happening when I accelerate up a hill or a slight incline. It has happened a few times on flat road as well just more prevalent on the uphill battles. Now I assumed it was jus something loose that was rattling since I installed a cold air intake and had installed hid lights(I thought the ballast was banging on something). I tried and tried to find the rattle but I had no success. I read up on here about other people suffering the same problem and that running higher octane gas would solve it well I tried 89 and it was still there just not as much and I recently started using 91 and its gone haven't heard it at all.
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My 2011 accent hatch makes a coo like a dove when I turn it off sometimes and it sounds like it's coming from the boot. I actually did open it to look for a bird one day. It's a diesel, and I did have a problem with algae in the fuel which was half fixed..
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I have rpm stalls then comes back every 2 seconds at idle After one hour driving . Whitout any error code and no check engine . I checked all the sensors and even changed alternator and throttle body completely. No I suspect to crankshaft position sensor .
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I've just bought a new accent 2014 car, I noticed a sound like air escaping coming from the back near the rear wheel, the sounds is continuous, it doesn't stop till the car is turned off, the AC was not turned off, my friend told me that it could the brakes but the sound is coming with and without pushing the brake pedals. Is this normal for a new car or I should go and got it checked ? If it not normal what could it be ?
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Not sure if this is called "sputtering" or something else. But essentially today all of the sudden my car would sort of jump ahead, as if I when revving it back and fourth on the pedal aggressively. Not sure what could have caused this. Today was an essentially cold day so that may have something to do with it. Also my car overheats so I have to put anti-freeze in it most days. For the last few days I've been just using plain water, could this be the culprit? Why is my car jerking around like this?
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When the weather is rainy or just very humid, the speedometer needle in my 2000 Accent jumps all over the place. According to the service dept. at my local dealership it is most likely the speed sensor causing the problem.
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My wife drives a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. Recently the car started idling very rough with rpm jumps back and forth from 1500 to 2500 rpm. The check engine light came on and threw a code for the IAC. I also notice a clicking sound coming from the engine and I can see sparks arching at the coil/plug wire. The arching is happening at the coil with the numbers 1 & 4.
The car is difficult to drive. It shakes and surges and isn't pleasant to drive at all. These issues started happening very recently. The car ran great up until now. We've stopped driving it for the time being until we solve the problem.
We had the car serviced a few years ago and they changed the IAC and mentioned something about a gray wire that we should watch out for.
I'm not really sure what the issue is. I don't know if it is the spark plugs, wires, or coil. Or it could be the IAC or something else. I'm comfortable working on the car myself, but I would rather not try fixing many things if it is just one thing actually wrong.
So far, the only thing I've tried is to spray some carb cleaner into the throttle body towards the IAC in hopes that it would clean it and solve my problems.
Where the IAC is located. I want to try remove and clean it, but I'm unsure of exactly where it it. I know it is somewhere on the throttle body or intake manifold, but I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for.
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Just picked up my 2012 Model Five w/ ATP. Love it (more details to come), but it seems to require too much touch screen action that could better be accomplished through voice recognition. The nav screen always seems to jump back to map display after I've finished an audio transaction. Any way to just keep the audio screen in place until I select the map display? I don't like having to go back to audio to change stations. Also, the nav voice instructions are sometimes only useful for part of the trip. Is there any way to squelch the voice while driving without going into setup and using the touch screen? Answers are probably in the manual but I haven't found them so far.
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2015 TSI Transmission Problem... Clicking sound, over the past few weeks clicking has got worse, rough idle, very abrupt gear changes when gearing down, gear gets "stuck" around 2200 revs and jumps back and forth. what do you think the problem is. and no its not dsg. has 5000 miles.
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I have a 2005 Hyndai Accent GT automatic (83,000 km) and I am having a problem with the gear shifting. It's happening more and more.
As I am driving I am pretty sure that it's changing to a higher gear but when I slow down it seems like its not shifting down at all. Coming off the Highway I have to slow down and when I speed back up it seems like its still in the high gear. The RPM's instantly jumps up.
The only way it fixes it self is when I pull over and shut off the car and then start it up again and I am fine. A friend at work said that I may have to have my transmission fluid checked and filled up.
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I have a 96 ranger with the l4. Right before I bought my newish truck last December, it's started miss firing and running really bad. I replaced the spark plug wires, most of the spark plugs, and both coil packs. Didn't work at all. Then I bought my new truck and parked. Fast forward to now. Fired it up, ran REALLY bad. We changed the wiring order from the 96 order to the 99 order.
But the truck idles from 500rpm (barely running) and randomly jumps up to 2-3000rpm and then back down. Driving it has NO power, rev it and it stays at 2-3000 for quite awhile. Sometimes it randomly dies. REALLY need to get it running quick and cheap. Getting ready to sell my daily driver to find something else and I need something to drive while I hunt for another truck.
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