Accent LC (2000-05) :: Misfiring After Getting Gas - Kicking And Bucking
Mar 10, 2009
I have a 2002 Hyundai accent 1.6L w/ 190,000 miles. Around Christmas one cold morning right after getting gas at a grimey service station my car started running like crap misfiring badly. Kicking and bucking it barely got me to work (6 miles). I took the car to an Advanced auto and had them plug it in to check the engine light. It was throwing multiple codes P0300 (Multiple Misfire Detected), P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected), P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected). I told the guy at advanced that I thought it was bad gas and he agreed, so I put some dry gas and Lucas oil gas treatment in it. The problem seemed to get better within 50 miles, only misfiring when I drove it hard.
The problem has come back and this time the gas treatments are not working. I am getting the same two codes along with a new code P0133, (HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Slow Response) and the same symptoms, and to top it off my flex pipe has rusted out (for the second time).
So now I don't think the initial problem was water in the gas, and I am not sure what to make of it. The problem seems to happen more noticeably when I push the engine (first gear, and when accelerating) but then seems to get better when maintaining a constant speed. Also, the misfiring happens all the time but more noticeably when the engine gets to running temperature. First gear is by far the worst when the engine is warm.
- The car got a tune (filter(s), plugs wires) up about 6mo ago
- The timing belt is old about 90k on it
- A new crank shaft position sensor a year ago
- New O2 sensor (the 2nd one past flex pipe) 6mo ago
- Burning about 1qt of oil (synthetic) every 3k miles but no smoke
- The car has the original clutch w/ 191k on it!
This is where I stand. I don't care about the flex pipe or the timing belt. Unless I can defiantly pinpoint the problem to one of those two, the car has so many miles on it, to start dumping that kind of money into it doesn't make sense. I have put a spark test light on each of the plugs BUT the problem does not happen when the car is idle so it showed me nothing but properly functioning plugs. I was thinking the ignition coil (its original) but I think that would throw a code.
View 20 Replies
Advertisement
Truck has been taken care of, new Motorcraft plugs done 15,000 ago, never had any issues with truck until recently. Started bucking and kicking, threw CEL light, pulled codes. P0018, P0022, P0300, 305, 307 and 308. All of the misfires seem to be happening only on my left bank. I threw in a new camshaft position sensor just for the hell of it. This issue goes away and comes back intermittently. I drove it for a day and it did fine. Had power and then started it later to go home and it was misfiring, got to a stop light, cycled key and everything went back to normal. 2007 Ford F150 Lariat 5.4l Triton....116,000k....
View 11 Replies
This is the first winter for my truck, and the first time I've driven a truck in the winter. I struggled to get out of my street this morning, through 15" of unplowed heavy snow. As the traction control seems to engage, and even sometimes when it doesn't, the truck literally shakes very violently. I even had to lock the rear diff to get out this morning, but that didn't seem to make the shaking any worse. What causes the shaking? Is it just my truck? I've driven Land Rovers with full-time 4x4 for years, never any shaking even when they are spinning like crazy and traction control is operating. One thing I did learn that seemed to be a question of several on this forum...traction control does operate on the front wheels when 4x4 is engaged, in addition to the rears.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
View 21 Replies
I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.6L automatic. I just bought it today. It has 171,000 miles. The car is misfiring. It does it when I give it gas. It won't misfire if I only give a little gas but if I was to drive it then it spits and sputters. I put new wires on. what are some common things on these cars. I am new to a Hyundai.
View 3 Replies
I have an 02 Accent 1.6L that has about 190,000km on it. It is now misfiring under low rpm's (anything under 2000) and the engine light will flash and then go off after about 5 seconds. Once the engine light went on and stayed on but I got the code read and reset it. The code was P 0303 Cylinder 3 misfire. I replaced the coil pack since that is apparently the common cause of this issue.
No luck with the new coil pack still have the same problem. I started smelling gas about 1000km ago so I assume that it is burning rich and putting raw fuel into the engine. My spark plugs are under 10,000km new and the wires show no signs of any problems. My next thought was to buy a new MAF sensor and hope that is the issue.
What this could be? FWIW the engine seems to run a little better for about 5km after using a throttle body clean on the TB. It also runs minimally better when I use a Lucas fuel additive.
View 5 Replies
I have hyundai accent 2005 1341cc 86hp, with BRC LPG kit. When i start the car at the morning, the engine misfiring around 500rpm for a few second (5sec-10sec)...
Sometimes the engine start ok in the 1100rpm - 1200rpm and when I touch the accelerator then misfiring again!
The car have 133.000km (11.000km with LPG).
I have replace the petrol filter 2 days ago and the all electric system without multiplier. I have clean throttle valve and the injectors with stp cleaner.
View 26 Replies
I own a 2000 accent. Broke down, called racq, they said it was electrical problem with fuel pump and my car would kick over after someone cranks it and another person bangs the underside of the fuel tank a few times(exterior). then broke down again and car wouldn't start at all, had no spark would only crank not kick over, I took it to a mechanic and he found out it was the fuel relay switch so he replaced that and the car was running again, however it was only running on 3 cylinders and the fuel light would flash/turn on for seconds/ flick on and off even with a full tank.
Took it back to the mechanic and he said the fuel lines were blocked and needed new fuel filter so after he fitted all that was still running terrible, would misfire, fuel light still flashed and driving it around drank the fuel. Found out that it was the first cylinder that was the problem. I changed the sparkplugs and no difference
So I went to a car wreckers and replaced the 1st fuel injector (got it for 5 dollars off an accent that was wrote off from the back end) once i fitted the injector it started to run better. It is now running at about 75%. doesnt go as hard as it use to, still misfires, still drinking the fuel and the fuel light is always off and on when I am driving. It has low revs in idle mode so it rattles/shakes heavily as well and smell of fuel in the back seats every now and then.
oh and a side note - drove it a few nights ago and the clutch pedal is 'loose'... as in the grab is near enough clutch in 7/8ths of the way(near the floor) and when the clutch is fully out there is alot of 'play' which is when you press the clutch in a quarter of the way its nothing, no tension or anything just floppy, but im not 100% sure if the clutch cable needs tightening or something worse( i only replaced clutch about 2 months ago so it couldn't be burnt out?)
View 3 Replies
After almost an entire year of trouble-free running (with the exception of replacing a ground strap), my 2009 accent decided to start bucking and shuddering again. It only does this when warmed up, runs perfect cold. In the last 16 months, I've replaced the plugs, coils, battery, PCV valve, and ground strap. Car starts with zero hesitation.
Strong battery and starter, consistent output from alternator. After @5 miles, the car stumbles on acceleration, and idles sporadically. While looking at it tonight, I noticed a few exhaust brackets under the car had broken, and the flex section of the intermediate pipe had torn open. Could this presumed exhaust leak be causing the crap running performance?
(My "exhausted" brain thought it could cause the O2 sensor to misinform the ECM, resulting in the P0300 code I pulled...).
View 1 Replies
I have a 1999 Hyundai Accent manual transmission. It's been a great car but over the past few months there is a problem that the mechanics can't figure out. The car is fine driving initially. Once it's warmed up, parked for about an hour, and started up again, it bucks every time I ease up on the gas. It seems to be worse at slow speeds - 30 or under - but still occurs at higher speeds.
View 2 Replies
I just bought a 2000 Ranger 4.0, and it runs great. There is "no check engine" light and the mpg are reasonable. My temperature gauge never gets into the normal range, its always low. I believe this is related to the water pump kicking on and off constantly. There is plenty of heat coming from the vents. Do I have a bad thermostat or coolant temperature sensor?
View 12 Replies
Searched but did not find. Just bought a 2015 Accent hatchback. Only issue I have had is a lean bucking of the engine if you don't have enough throttle (RPM). From a standing start, the auto trans will shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd very quickly if you are going real slow. I have to give it at least 1/4 throttle and accelerate quickly to keep the trans from shifting too soon. So far I have 2000 miles and 1 oil change, running 93 octane gas. Is this condition normal?
View 7 Replies
I've noticed on a few occasions that when asking for full throttle to merge on a highway, my car bucks while in 3rd gear (automatic) as the rpms climb above 5k or so. It's almost as if the car is choking on too much air (I do have the SRI) because backing off the throttle slightly immediately stops the bucking. The car does not buck in 2nd gear at the redline. What would cause it?
I'm thinking maybe the spark plug wires are arching or there is a slight crack in one of the coil packs that only manifests under full throttle. Or perhaps the engine really is getting more air than it can handle. I'm at 46k, no mechanical problems, never a check engine light, and the car operates smoothly under all other circumstances. The spark plugs were replaced with NGK platinums at 30k.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2000 F-550 w/7.3. I am having a bit of a problem with the hvac system. When I turn the selector switch to floor heat only or put it on vent or both the a/c clutch kicks on and off. Not when I put it on defrost but as I said only when it is in the other positions. I do know that the clutch will kick in and out when on the defrost position. That is fine. But why would it kick in and out when in the heat only position?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6L. A few weeks after I bought it w 38,000 miles, it started misfiring so I replaced the spark plugs. It ran great for about another 6 months and started misfiring again. I took it to Hyundai to have it fixed and of course it wouldn't do it for them. I told them what it was doing and they said that there was no code so it was probably my spark plugs. I replaced my plugs with the OE plugs and got the same trouble about 4 months later. Now it has 60,000 miles and my warranty is done. I put in new plugs yesterday and it only ran well until it warmed up and it did the same thing. I ordered new, better than OE Delphi coils yesterday and I'll get them today. I feel like there's a bigger problem with the system that's causing the problem with the coils.
View 7 Replies
Recently got broadsided (passenger), got the body fixed up. Now it is Misfiring on idle and only on idle...
Prior to this I had Coil go out on me, got that changed out, changed the spark plugs. It was running great then the accident happened an this Misfire on idle problem.
Took it to the shop, had them check for a code, no code. They suggested that it made be do to carbon buildup from the previous misfiring issue and suggested using STP engine treatment on it.
View 4 Replies
So the first issue is, if the vehicle is cold (regardless of temp outside) it takes forever to start it. It cranks and cranks and cranks and after a couple seconds of cranking I stop, wait a second, then try again. Usually it takes two sometimes three tries to start it. The guy who I bought it off of said it has newer glow plugs (last year I believe) and also I have replaced the batteries. Once its warmed up it does not do this at all.
Secondly and also something that just recently started happening, my water in fuel light keeps kicking in. I drained the water out of the water catcher reservoir under the truck multiple times and the first time water actually came out but every time after that simply diesel fuel comes out. I added a bottle of water remover to the fuel as well and ran it down to a quarter tank. Then filled the truck up completely, added two more bottles of water remover. The light still comes on. I noticed it only comes on when I am going up or down a fill. When I am driving on flat ground it does not kick on.
View 4 Replies
Have a Accent GLS 1.6L, 92,000 miles on it the issue is what I stated above.
Basically back in March I started having issues with my car and it seemed like it was misfiring or something of the sorts at first I thought it was the IAC motor because it would only intermittently kind of "choke" if you will and it only did it while I was idling and in drive. So before I decided to go further with the IAC motor I decided to take it and have the throttle body cleaned, but it eventually started to do it again. After that I had my fuel injectors cleaned and that didn't work much at all. Kept going until a couple months ago when it actually set off a check engine light and it started doing it almost violently.
Check engine light came up with the result that coil 2 is misfiring and I went about replacing the spark plugs and the boot to one of the coils and that made the issue go away no check engine light, no nothing. Past couple days it's been doing it very very occasionally but yet still doing it.
I don't have a whole lot of cash but I need a solution quickly because this is starting to become a pain I don't want it to become so bad that I'm without a vehicle that is operating properly again.
Only thing I can note is that now it is very occasional, and when the car could be otherwise be considered "cold" and often I can't make it repeat the same thing. Had oil above cylinders when I had the plugs replaced.
View 4 Replies
I'm having the absolute worst time trying to fix my wife's 09 accent. We bought the car in '12 with 45k miles on it, and just hit 109k last month. About a year ago, the car started misfiring badly (hot day, after reaching operating temperature) followed by the CEL coming on, and a cylinder cutting out. I (mistakenly) figured coils, and replaced them. This "fix" didn't last more than a couple months.
I've also replaced the intake manifold gasket, suspecting a vacuum issue, due to the symptoms. While doing that, I put in a new PCV valve. To no avail, as the car still misses, chugs and shudders while accelerating at operating temperature. I've disconnected/checked the sensors on the manifold, the 02 sensors, the evap purge solenoid...I absolutely can not wrap my head around this.
The weird part is that the car starts fine when cold, (with only a split-second hesitation if you goose the throttle) and will run great for about 10 minutes/until it warms up. Then,once it warms up it will jerk, shudder and not accelerate at all unless you knife the gas. After letting off the gas, it goes right back to "misfiring" and the light comes back on. I can shut the car off, restart it, and it will run fine until the accelerator is pressed.
View 9 Replies
I have a bucking and jerking 6.0 right now. It will buck and then won't go above 2000 rpm or it will lurch or if I hold the pedal down lose power unless I drop it below 2000rpm. If I put the pedal down the truck wont go above 2000 rpm and will go up on speed. the erg was deleted but its trowing crazy amount of white smoke from the exhaust. When the truck starts up some white smoke comes out but eventually clears up when you keep it under 2000 rpm.
When on idle you can step down the pedal and hear the truck failing on revs like an injector issue but i checked and they arent the problem. the problem got fixed for a couple of weeks when i changed the Y pipe because the other was ruptured but the problem came back and its even worse now i can use the truck for nothing.
View 6 Replies
So as I was heading out the other day, the car had low acceleration and engine shaking. The check engine light started flashing.
Checked the codes at the parts store: P0300, P0301, P0303.
I just dropped it off at the auto repair shop.
Could it be a I'm just wondering if I shouldn't have taken it to the dealer as the printout says it could be a CPU issue?
View 5 Replies
