I just bought a 2000 Ranger 4.0, and it runs great. There is "no check engine" light and the mpg are reasonable. My temperature gauge never gets into the normal range, its always low. I believe this is related to the water pump kicking on and off constantly. There is plenty of heat coming from the vents. Do I have a bad thermostat or coolant temperature sensor?
View 12 RepliesPlan on changing my water pump in the next day or two. Truck is a 2000 Ranger, 2.5L with 185,000+ miles. Just wondering if there are any hints/gotcha's that may not be in the manual.
Any advice on bleeding the coolant after I get it back together?
So the first issue is, if the vehicle is cold (regardless of temp outside) it takes forever to start it. It cranks and cranks and cranks and after a couple seconds of cranking I stop, wait a second, then try again. Usually it takes two sometimes three tries to start it. The guy who I bought it off of said it has newer glow plugs (last year I believe) and also I have replaced the batteries. Once its warmed up it does not do this at all.
Secondly and also something that just recently started happening, my water in fuel light keeps kicking in. I drained the water out of the water catcher reservoir under the truck multiple times and the first time water actually came out but every time after that simply diesel fuel comes out. I added a bottle of water remover to the fuel as well and ran it down to a quarter tank. Then filled the truck up completely, added two more bottles of water remover. The light still comes on. I noticed it only comes on when I am going up or down a fill. When I am driving on flat ground it does not kick on.
I had a slight noise from the waterpump area for a while, was waiting for it to fail but instead it was the clutched fan bearings. How difficult is it to repair? And could there be a recall on this, the ranger has 51,00 miles and its all easy miles. 2004 ranger 2.3 clutched fan bearing failure ...
View 14 RepliesI came out of work to see a fair amount of fluid on the ground under my excursion (2000 limited 7.3l 4x4). So I checked my fluids and found the coolant low and all the other fluids were good,. I had some in the excursion (not sure why I had it but it was there ). Filled it as much as I could started the truck and there it was a pretty big leak from my water pump. I was able to get one (new one lifetime warranty from an auto parts place, Ford was closed) so now on my day off instead of relaxing I will be installing a water pump. I guess it was about time. I figured since I was there I might as well flush the system. How many gallons of coolant this will take to refill the whole system?
View 7 RepliesOne last issue with my 2000 B3000 3.0L. The leak seems to be on the left (passenger) side of the water pump very near where the bottom radiator hose connects to it. I can't find any loose bolts. It does not leak while driving the truck or soon after. It has to sit for several hours or overnight before it shows up. There are usually 3 or 4 wet spots where it drips from the water pump to the frame to the driveway. It is small enough that I only have to fill up my coolant tank every 1 or 2 months. Could this just be a small gasket leak? It's been happening for about a year or so I think. I replaced the radiator about 2 years ago. I've been expecting it to get worse or bust loose and have been checking it very often. I've never seen one not leak while running like this-has me puzzled.
View 6 RepliesI got a 08 F150 with a V6. It's making a very loud and annoying noise that sounds a lot like a bad steering pump, but it's coming from the water pump. I'll be cruising at about 2000 rpm and the noise will start all of a sudden. I step on the clutch and let the rpm drop to idle, and the noise tapers off as the rpm drops and then stops completely. I bring the rpm back up, and there's no noise. There is absolutely no play in the water pump bearing, no leakage from the weep hole, no overheating.
View 2 RepliesI sold a buddy of mine my dad's old 1997 Ford Ranger XLT with about 100,000 miles. It passed an inspection and was in good condition. Afterwards we both noticed it had a kicking sound in the transmission as you were cruising with it. It was variable but on average about every 20 mins or so. My buddy thought it was probably due to overfilling with fluid so he had it flushed but the problem still remains. He thinks it gets worse as it heats more. We're not sure what the problem is.
View 4 Replies2000 ford ranger, 2.5 2wd
Been having a little problem whenever it rains, the carpet on the passenger side gets soaked through and I'm not really sure where the leak is coming from. the only part of the floor that gets wet is the flat part where the passenger would put their feet, but the parts that slope up towards the dash and towards the middle of the cab stay dry. I've pulled up this part of the carpet, and the rubber grommets are intact and in good shape, and there is no rust or anything on the floorboard. from searching here it seems people have had similar problems, one thing being a leak into the seals around the third brake light above the rear window.
a couple things i should mention is that the air conditioning condenser has been broken for about two years, so could water get blocked up and leak in? since its winter here in PA i haven't used the air con since last summer though. I'm not really sure how long the leak has been happening since I've always kept a floor mat over that spot, and the carpet drys in a few days anyway.
Another thing i should mention is that the weather stripping at the bottom of the window on the drivers side door is not perfectly tight and tends to come out of place when the door is closed hard. this has been happening since i got the truck almost three years ago and a new piece was just put in a month ago (the leak had been occurring before the new piece was installed) when the truck was hit and went in for body work. possibly a drain routing to passenger floor? I should add that I'm sure it's not coolant, it has no odor and feels like water.
Might be a good idea to pull up the whole carpet on passenger's side and sit in the cab during the next storm...
Soon after I bought this car, the water pump began giving out. It made grinding noises and leaked coolant. I replaced it with a new Bosch water pump. This water pump is driven off of the timing chain.
A week after replacing the pump, the NEW pump started going out.
What would cause the pump to go keep going bad, so quickly after replacement? Could it be a timing chain issue? Should I have bought a more expensive pump? Would replacing the timing chain tensioner make a difference too?
My daughter's boyfriend just bought a 2000 ranger with a 2.5. We just put a flexplate in it and it wouldn't start. Just turned over. Listened for the fuel pump and no noise. After a few minutes, it worked. He drove it home last night and said that it didn't want to work first try but worked with the second try. He drove it to church, 40 miles, and it sit for around two hours and wouldn't start, no matter how many tries.
We tried changing the relays around with no luck. We went and eat lunch and back to the truck with a rubber hammer. Then it starts on the second try without using the hammer. We got under it and cleaned the connections up and put some bulb grease on them. I couldn't get the one apart right on top of the pump itself, I was afraid of breaking it. It's been doing fine since we left the church before we cleaned the connections.
My water-in-fuel light has been on constantly since I bought my 6.0L X about 3 weeks ago. Replaced fuel filters immediately; used DieselKleen in fuel; drained the HFCM multiple times... no water (upgraded the HFCM plug too). Sprayed some carb cleaner through drain hole and out runs red goo. Finally had time to clean out the HFCM this weekend. Raised front-end on ramps, chocked wheels.
Attempted to remove front drive shaft to 4x4. Couldn't free one of the bolts on the front U-joint. Rats. Since I couldn't remove the drive shaft, there wasn't enough room to remove the entire HFCM, so I removed only the cover.
Disconnect battery.
Unplug WIF sensor and fuel heater.
Drain HFCM (again) to make sure it's empty...it wasn't.
Disconnect 4 fuel lines. Wipe fuel from running down arms. I should mention that I had less than 1/4 tank of fuel to try and minimize spillage.
Remove 4 cover screws (7mm, though my 5/16" SAE socket fit better.)
Clean cover and HFCM with carb cleaner.
Replace HFCM gasket.
Replace HFCM cover; screws were hand-tightened.
Reconnect fuel lines and sensors.
Cycle Key-On, Engine Off (KOEO) about 4-5 times.
Crank 'er up....no more WIF light.
Here are some before and after pics.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
I recently noticed a humming noise coming from the passenger side on my Mazda Protege 2000 ES . I suspected it was the water pump, so I took the car to my mechanic. He inspected the coolant reservoir and it was empty. He also checked the noise and the area were the pump is, and told me that the water pump had to be replaced.
My dad told me that his 1994 Sentra had the water pump replaced but none of these things had to be done and that it was unnecessary. But then I thought, every car is different.
I was in shock with how much the repair would cost, so he then gave me another quote with just the timing belt and water pump replacement for $503, but this time he said that he will not give me any warranty for the repairs because of the tensioner.
I have a 2000 F-550 w/7.3. I am having a bit of a problem with the hvac system. When I turn the selector switch to floor heat only or put it on vent or both the a/c clutch kicks on and off. Not when I put it on defrost but as I said only when it is in the other positions. I do know that the clutch will kick in and out when on the defrost position. That is fine. But why would it kick in and out when in the heat only position?
View 2 RepliesMy vacuum pump I noticed is running constantly and also my vents are stuck on defrost.
I narrowed it down by taking off the lines going from the tank to the 4x4 solenoid and the tank to the HVAC line. If I plug both lines I get pressure to both but it still won't shut the pump off. Why won't the pump shut off? Leaky tank?
If I plug the red line back into the solenoid I cannot get pressure to come out of the HVAC line. (Switch in cab set in 2wd)
I can make the pump shut off by plugging the main inlet to the pump.
I took the tank out and can't find any cracks or leaks. Could something inside the tank be broke?
Also why can't I get pressure when the red line is plugged into the selinoid?
I can't figure it out. Almost seems like the 4x4 solenoid and the tank are both the problem.
I am trying to get opinions on the best and safest Head Gasket Sealer that will be used on a 2003 ford focus. I was recently told by a mechanic that my head gasket needed to be replaced and was the cause of the water reservoir losing antifreeze and constantly needing to be added even though there were no traces of leakage.
View 9 RepliesTook the R in the touchless car wash Monday night and immediately drove home and parked in my garage. I went in to eat and came back out into the garage about 2 hrs later and noticed my replica A6 DRLs were on. I noticed that when I shook the wiring they would flicker but stayed on. I took off all the electrical tape and noticed water had somehow made it's way into the relay. I blew air on the relay and the receptacle. I then greased up the relay prongs and plugged it back in and shook the wiring again and the lights still flickered and stayed on. I pulled the relay to keep the DRL off so they wouldn't kill my battery. Hopefully when I plug the relay back in tonight, all the moisture will have dried up and the DRLs will only light up on ignition as their supposed to.
My question is: How do I keep moisture from getting into the relay in the future? I thought it was very well taped up with electrical tape, but water still managed to make it to the relay. I was going to reluctantly wrap the works with Saran Wrap and tape up the ends but that's the kind of ghetto fix that I usually stay away from.
My daughter has a 2004 Toyota Corolla and the "service engine" light came on. The diagnosis was that the water pump needed to be replaced.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Hyundai accent 1.6L w/ 190,000 miles. Around Christmas one cold morning right after getting gas at a grimey service station my car started running like crap misfiring badly. Kicking and bucking it barely got me to work (6 miles). I took the car to an Advanced auto and had them plug it in to check the engine light. It was throwing multiple codes P0300 (Multiple Misfire Detected), P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected), P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected). I told the guy at advanced that I thought it was bad gas and he agreed, so I put some dry gas and Lucas oil gas treatment in it. The problem seemed to get better within 50 miles, only misfiring when I drove it hard.
The problem has come back and this time the gas treatments are not working. I am getting the same two codes along with a new code P0133, (HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Slow Response) and the same symptoms, and to top it off my flex pipe has rusted out (for the second time).
So now I don't think the initial problem was water in the gas, and I am not sure what to make of it. The problem seems to happen more noticeably when I push the engine (first gear, and when accelerating) but then seems to get better when maintaining a constant speed. Also, the misfiring happens all the time but more noticeably when the engine gets to running temperature. First gear is by far the worst when the engine is warm.
- The car got a tune (filter(s), plugs wires) up about 6mo ago
- The timing belt is old about 90k on it
- A new crank shaft position sensor a year ago
- New O2 sensor (the 2nd one past flex pipe) 6mo ago
- Burning about 1qt of oil (synthetic) every 3k miles but no smoke
- The car has the original clutch w/ 191k on it!
This is where I stand. I don't care about the flex pipe or the timing belt. Unless I can defiantly pinpoint the problem to one of those two, the car has so many miles on it, to start dumping that kind of money into it doesn't make sense. I have put a spark test light on each of the plugs BUT the problem does not happen when the car is idle so it showed me nothing but properly functioning plugs. I was thinking the ignition coil (its original) but I think that would throw a code.
I was checking under my hood today and I happened to notice a dent in what I think is my water pump. Should this be cause for concern or something I can just ignore?
View 16 RepliesI had the doors open while unloading the car this morning and noticed that the brake booster pump just kept running and running and running, plus I can hear a strange, hollow rattling sound somewhere under the car that coincides with the pump. When I say it runs "constantly," I really mean that it runs for 10 seconds (with the rattle), stops for about 5 seconds (silence), runs and rattles for ten seconds again, stops for another five, and just keeps on going for as long as I care to sit there with the door open.
View 15 Replies