Golf V R32 :: Water In Relay Now A6 DRLs On Constantly
Jun 13, 2012
Took the R in the touchless car wash Monday night and immediately drove home and parked in my garage. I went in to eat and came back out into the garage about 2 hrs later and noticed my replica A6 DRLs were on. I noticed that when I shook the wiring they would flicker but stayed on. I took off all the electrical tape and noticed water had somehow made it's way into the relay. I blew air on the relay and the receptacle. I then greased up the relay prongs and plugged it back in and shook the wiring again and the lights still flickered and stayed on. I pulled the relay to keep the DRL off so they wouldn't kill my battery. Hopefully when I plug the relay back in tonight, all the moisture will have dried up and the DRLs will only light up on ignition as their supposed to.
My question is: How do I keep moisture from getting into the relay in the future? I thought it was very well taped up with electrical tape, but water still managed to make it to the relay. I was going to reluctantly wrap the works with Saran Wrap and tape up the ends but that's the kind of ghetto fix that I usually stay away from.
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This relay is clicking about once a second, and the car won't start (it doesn't even turn over). Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery doesn't seem to have an effect, but I did notice that it seems to stop for a few seconds when I open the door. What's going on?
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I have a 2002 Mercury sable and have a problem with power windows. When you hit the driver's door window up button, you hear a relay constantly clicking under the dash, fealing the relays up there it seems to be one of the top 2 in the bank of 4 at the top of the fuse box feeling for vibration as it clicks. Any of the other buttons results in a single click then nothing and if the door's open as it was when I worked on it,the door chime stops and no window buttons make clicks or anything until I hit the driver's door up button again. Now if I pull one of the relays I mentioned, hitting the window up and down buttons from the driver's door does make the relay click once when pressed, once when released.
Am I correct in thinking this is a power window relay under the hood, voltage seems alright where I checked it but not having a wiring diagram or anything I have no clue what's what I only checked as well as I could from the fuse box. Another interesting issue which we've had off and on for a while now is when you put the car in gear, it will ding for about 3 minutes, seems more like an hour. No lights or anything, is this all related and I'm all wet on the window relay, or do I have something else going on here?
I need the windows to open, I got sick of replacing AC compressors so pulled it out so we have no AC, it gets hot in there fast. I couldn't care less about the dinging if that's unrelated, the windows worked last I knew which was only a few weeks ago, that dinging was something it did in the fall when someone ever so nicely broke in to the car making the driver's door no longer lock with the electric locks, another problem I can't find but that wasn't a huge concern, that door's obviously been apart many times in the past so I'm not the first to have problems with it.
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Had a weird issue come up this weekend. I went to drive my truck for the first time in a couple of weeks and when I got in I noticed a constant clicking from under the dash (whether the truck was on, off or if the indicators / hazard lights were on or off). I investigated and found it was my flasher relay. I have replaced this relay recently (within the past year) to an EP27L to accommodate the LED lighting I installed throughout the truck (hyper flash on the old relay doesn't even describe it properly, it was a constant buzz!) and it has been working perfectly until this point.
I thought it may just be something going on with the relay so I pulled it and replaced with the old EP27 unit I still had. It does the same thing, albeit at a slower rate (every 4-5 seconds). The lights do not blink when it is doing this, but still operate normally when I move my stalk up or down or when I press the hazard / flasher button on top of the steering column.
I am wondering if there is a short somewhere in my multifunction switch that is causing this issue? If so, why would it come up when truck has been sat? I didn't have the time, not the inclination to roll around inside my truck (hotter than hades here in Florida right now) to troubleshoot any further. I pulled the relay altogether until I get some time and cooler weather to look into it further. Otherwise the truck seems to operate as normal, even all the lighting seems to have no ill effects from this?
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My water-in-fuel light has been on constantly since I bought my 6.0L X about 3 weeks ago. Replaced fuel filters immediately; used DieselKleen in fuel; drained the HFCM multiple times... no water (upgraded the HFCM plug too). Sprayed some carb cleaner through drain hole and out runs red goo. Finally had time to clean out the HFCM this weekend. Raised front-end on ramps, chocked wheels.
Attempted to remove front drive shaft to 4x4. Couldn't free one of the bolts on the front U-joint. Rats. Since I couldn't remove the drive shaft, there wasn't enough room to remove the entire HFCM, so I removed only the cover.
Disconnect battery.
Unplug WIF sensor and fuel heater.
Drain HFCM (again) to make sure it's empty...it wasn't.
Disconnect 4 fuel lines. Wipe fuel from running down arms. I should mention that I had less than 1/4 tank of fuel to try and minimize spillage.
Remove 4 cover screws (7mm, though my 5/16" SAE socket fit better.)
Clean cover and HFCM with carb cleaner.
Replace HFCM gasket.
Replace HFCM cover; screws were hand-tightened.
Reconnect fuel lines and sensors.
Cycle Key-On, Engine Off (KOEO) about 4-5 times.
Crank 'er up....no more WIF light.
Here are some before and after pics.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
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I think if your parking brake is engaged they are on but if its just headlights on they turn off. Also I'll just whore this pic of my R ....
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I have a 2011 GTi, and I'm sure this has been gone over many many times, but I need to be honest, with work and trade school and lack of a good smartphone I have no time to search this on vortex. I just want to know how to turn my DRLs off on my GTi, its the sunroof nav package with BI Xenons. I think I heard you need to use VAG COM to load some special code, and that's about all I heard. So where to get it to turn these off.
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So, just recently i had both of my DRLs burn out. They both burnt out at the same time which I thought was weird but I thought that it was because of how cold it was here that it may have happened that way. So, I bought new ones and replaced one side and went to check it, nothing. Took it back out, checked the connections and reinstalled it. Nothing again. I looked at the fuses but didn't notice any blown ones so I am stating to think it is a head light switch.
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New to the MK6 world and the halogens they have.. I am used to having Xenons... My question is there a way to run DRL's and fogs together?
I know there's a way to wire the city lights and fogs to run together, but I love the way the halogen DRLs look and i would like to run them together with the fogs. I do have a Euro switch.
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I'd like to run my DRL's and Fogs at the same time in auto mode. Currently if you have the headlights set to auto and turn on fogs it enables the regular headlights as well. Id like only the U shaped DRLs and the fogs.
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I have a 2003 Jetta. I would like to have my parking lights on all the time, controlled with ignition (without any headlights), & have my headlights only cone on when I turn the headlight switch. Is there an easy way to do it?
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So looking to replace the passenger side front LED fog light assembly as the one that's currently on the car has a bad seal or something and lets water in. I have a new LED assembly but I'm lost with how exactly I'm to get the new part in. I've searched for diagrams regarding the replacement of the part and found one diagram that said the front bumper had to be completely removed from the car but I find that a bit hard to believe... (Then again its euro so maybe it's not hard to believe). Can the lower intake grill on the passenger side not just be pulled out or something? 2012 Golf R MK6....
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Is it true that if your drain lines are clogged water will backflow to the relay in the fuse box?
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I recently got a mk6 Gti and was wondering, if I put new wheels on it will the tire pressure light be on constantly? And is there something I can do to make the new wheels compatible with the pressure monitor system?
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I was driving home from work on Tuesday and I saw a message flash across the MFD saying that I needed to check coolant and consult owner's manual. Also the coolant light was constantly flashing. I was quarter mile from my house so I just drove home, checking the temp to make sure it was ok. I got home and opened the hood to see no coolant in the reservoir, but there was some in the hose. I was like "ok cool I just bought this car 3 months ago but not a big deal." I also looked on the ground under my car quickly and there wasn't a leak. I happen to live about 500' from a VW dealership so called them up and they said bring it over.
When I got there the SA came out and took a look and said to give him 5 to fill it up and I'd be on my way. As I'm waiting in the lounge, I notice a puddle on the ground under my car. I told him about it and he confirmed coolant leak. But because I didn't buy the car from them, they wouldn't give me a loaner, so I had them fill it up and I took a ride to where I bought the car (30 mins away). Now I'm driving a new Jetta. I got the call from Balise yesterday (the dealership I bought it from) and they said my radiator core was defective internally, they overnighted a part and they started fixing it yesterday morning. Since it's such an involved job, only a master tech can do it and there might not be one there today (which I have to check on around noon) so I might not get it back until Tuesday. But I really can't complain (other than the fact that it's a brand new car), I have a car to drive and it's being fixed properly.
It probably was that damn lowerthanzimmy sticker. I realize defective parts are made, they can't catch all of them before they're installed.
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I got one this morning and the thing never went away. and yes, i checked my fuel cap. How to remedy this issue or do I need to take it to the dealers.
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so it started like a month ago my door light would occasionally come on for no reason now it's to the point where my door light is always on and it constantly dings, i know its the door lock module but is there any way to tell which door? it might be the trunk and also is there a way to temporarily fix it soi don't drive my car into a tree from being so annoyed.
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