Accent LC (2000-05) :: Engine Misfiring When Touch The Accelerator
Nov 11, 2012
I have hyundai accent 2005 1341cc 86hp, with BRC LPG kit. When i start the car at the morning, the engine misfiring around 500rpm for a few second (5sec-10sec)...
Sometimes the engine start ok in the 1100rpm - 1200rpm and when I touch the accelerator then misfiring again!
The car have 133.000km (11.000km with LPG).
I have replace the petrol filter 2 days ago and the all electric system without multiplier. I have clean throttle valve and the injectors with stp cleaner.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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I have replaced the MAF sensor, TPS sensor, and fuel filter. Like the title says...if I rev the engine ...as soon as I let off the accelerator the engine stumbles and almost dies...then settles back down. I initially pulled codes PO121 so I replaced the TPS. PO103 so I replaced the MAF sensor. PO112..did not address directly as I assumed the MAF was causing. PO1123...again I hoped the parts I replaced would solve the problem. Initially the engine would just drop out while driving just for an instant and then be fine...also I had the 4 codes mentioned above. The only code that has returned is the PO121. I just got done replacing the fuel filter and things seem to be worse.
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I'm having an issue with my transmission. When driving it shifts just fine, but I have to let it accelerate slowly. If I press to hard on the accelerator pedal the engine ron races. So I ease up and it catches and slowly accelerates. For example going up hill, I press the accelerator and the car doesn't speed up, the engine races, so I have to just let the car slowly increase in speed by lightly pressing the gas pedal, no get up and go! Only occurs in 4th and 5th gears. What could be causing this. I have already flushed the gear oil as I had to replace the output shaft seal as it was leaking.
2000 Hyundai Accent 5 Speed Manual Transmission....
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I have a 2002 Hyundai accent 1.6L w/ 190,000 miles. Around Christmas one cold morning right after getting gas at a grimey service station my car started running like crap misfiring badly. Kicking and bucking it barely got me to work (6 miles). I took the car to an Advanced auto and had them plug it in to check the engine light. It was throwing multiple codes P0300 (Multiple Misfire Detected), P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected), P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected). I told the guy at advanced that I thought it was bad gas and he agreed, so I put some dry gas and Lucas oil gas treatment in it. The problem seemed to get better within 50 miles, only misfiring when I drove it hard.
The problem has come back and this time the gas treatments are not working. I am getting the same two codes along with a new code P0133, (HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Slow Response) and the same symptoms, and to top it off my flex pipe has rusted out (for the second time).
So now I don't think the initial problem was water in the gas, and I am not sure what to make of it. The problem seems to happen more noticeably when I push the engine (first gear, and when accelerating) but then seems to get better when maintaining a constant speed. Also, the misfiring happens all the time but more noticeably when the engine gets to running temperature. First gear is by far the worst when the engine is warm.
- The car got a tune (filter(s), plugs wires) up about 6mo ago
- The timing belt is old about 90k on it
- A new crank shaft position sensor a year ago
- New O2 sensor (the 2nd one past flex pipe) 6mo ago
- Burning about 1qt of oil (synthetic) every 3k miles but no smoke
- The car has the original clutch w/ 191k on it!
This is where I stand. I don't care about the flex pipe or the timing belt. Unless I can defiantly pinpoint the problem to one of those two, the car has so many miles on it, to start dumping that kind of money into it doesn't make sense. I have put a spark test light on each of the plugs BUT the problem does not happen when the car is idle so it showed me nothing but properly functioning plugs. I was thinking the ignition coil (its original) but I think that would throw a code.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.6L automatic. I just bought it today. It has 171,000 miles. The car is misfiring. It does it when I give it gas. It won't misfire if I only give a little gas but if I was to drive it then it spits and sputters. I put new wires on. what are some common things on these cars. I am new to a Hyundai.
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I have an 02 Accent 1.6L that has about 190,000km on it. It is now misfiring under low rpm's (anything under 2000) and the engine light will flash and then go off after about 5 seconds. Once the engine light went on and stayed on but I got the code read and reset it. The code was P 0303 Cylinder 3 misfire. I replaced the coil pack since that is apparently the common cause of this issue.
No luck with the new coil pack still have the same problem. I started smelling gas about 1000km ago so I assume that it is burning rich and putting raw fuel into the engine. My spark plugs are under 10,000km new and the wires show no signs of any problems. My next thought was to buy a new MAF sensor and hope that is the issue.
What this could be? FWIW the engine seems to run a little better for about 5km after using a throttle body clean on the TB. It also runs minimally better when I use a Lucas fuel additive.
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My 2001 Hyundai accent hatchback with around 135000 miles is having problems with the gas pedal. I start my car and can't really push down the gas pedal smoothly. It is initially hard where I have to slightly kick the pedal to move it. Otherwise if I rest my foot on the pedal and try to press it down I end up press it down too much where my car goes flying. Every time I come to a stop I have to do that to get the pedal to move. Its not stiff once I get the pedal to push down some but once I take my foot off the pedal I have to slightly kick it back down.
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I own a 2000 accent. Broke down, called racq, they said it was electrical problem with fuel pump and my car would kick over after someone cranks it and another person bangs the underside of the fuel tank a few times(exterior). then broke down again and car wouldn't start at all, had no spark would only crank not kick over, I took it to a mechanic and he found out it was the fuel relay switch so he replaced that and the car was running again, however it was only running on 3 cylinders and the fuel light would flash/turn on for seconds/ flick on and off even with a full tank.
Took it back to the mechanic and he said the fuel lines were blocked and needed new fuel filter so after he fitted all that was still running terrible, would misfire, fuel light still flashed and driving it around drank the fuel. Found out that it was the first cylinder that was the problem. I changed the sparkplugs and no difference
So I went to a car wreckers and replaced the 1st fuel injector (got it for 5 dollars off an accent that was wrote off from the back end) once i fitted the injector it started to run better. It is now running at about 75%. doesnt go as hard as it use to, still misfires, still drinking the fuel and the fuel light is always off and on when I am driving. It has low revs in idle mode so it rattles/shakes heavily as well and smell of fuel in the back seats every now and then.
oh and a side note - drove it a few nights ago and the clutch pedal is 'loose'... as in the grab is near enough clutch in 7/8ths of the way(near the floor) and when the clutch is fully out there is alot of 'play' which is when you press the clutch in a quarter of the way its nothing, no tension or anything just floppy, but im not 100% sure if the clutch cable needs tightening or something worse( i only replaced clutch about 2 months ago so it couldn't be burnt out?)
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I bought a 97 F150 4x4 from a guy who had left it to die after the tranny went out. I worked a good portion of the day getting the tranny out, but the truck has another issue. It was manufactured with a 4.6. PO blew her up and put in what he said was a used 5.4 with 88K miles on it. It idles really good and sounds great until you touch the accelerator. It nearly dies then rev's high. I put fluid in the tranny and it wouldn't move in forward but would in reverse. Same thing in gear. Touch the pedal and it nearly dies then revs high!
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I have had 2 cars with exactly the same problem. The first was a 1998 Volovo V70XC. And the second is my current 2003 BMW 325Xi - both AWD. When driving say on a freeway at 60 mph and you touch the accelerator to apply power, you get a whining or slight howling sound. As soon as you lift, the sound disappears, but each time you touch the pedal, the sound reappears. It seems to be coming from the driveline toward the mid to rear of the car. As you accelerate to 65-70 or decelerate to 55-50, the phenomenon disappears. What is causing this and how can it be fixed?
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6L. A few weeks after I bought it w 38,000 miles, it started misfiring so I replaced the spark plugs. It ran great for about another 6 months and started misfiring again. I took it to Hyundai to have it fixed and of course it wouldn't do it for them. I told them what it was doing and they said that there was no code so it was probably my spark plugs. I replaced my plugs with the OE plugs and got the same trouble about 4 months later. Now it has 60,000 miles and my warranty is done. I put in new plugs yesterday and it only ran well until it warmed up and it did the same thing. I ordered new, better than OE Delphi coils yesterday and I'll get them today. I feel like there's a bigger problem with the system that's causing the problem with the coils.
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So as I was heading out the other day, the car had low acceleration and engine shaking. The check engine light started flashing.
Checked the codes at the parts store: P0300, P0301, P0303.
I just dropped it off at the auto repair shop.
Could it be a I'm just wondering if I shouldn't have taken it to the dealer as the printout says it could be a CPU issue?
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My F350 idles fine but every 10-15 seconds it mis fires. When asking it to go up hill it sputters and seems to loose power. It runs fine until asked to work hard. Not really sure which direction to go in first.
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Had the car for less than a week and I'm getting a constant chirping/cricket sound, the moment I touch the clutch even slightly it stops. Sound is gone when clutch is touched in any way or engaged. My first thought is Throw Out Bearing, or perhaps pilot bearing?
2010 GL Sport model.
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I get a strange noise when I shit gear & press the accelerator..... the sound is as if something is knocking.....
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I'm looking at changing the height of the accelerator pedal so it's more inline with the brake pedal to make heel toe shifting easier, because at the moment I cannot get my heel anywhere near where the accelerator is.
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Recently got broadsided (passenger), got the body fixed up. Now it is Misfiring on idle and only on idle...
Prior to this I had Coil go out on me, got that changed out, changed the spark plugs. It was running great then the accident happened an this Misfire on idle problem.
Took it to the shop, had them check for a code, no code. They suggested that it made be do to carbon buildup from the previous misfiring issue and suggested using STP engine treatment on it.
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Have a Accent GLS 1.6L, 92,000 miles on it the issue is what I stated above.
Basically back in March I started having issues with my car and it seemed like it was misfiring or something of the sorts at first I thought it was the IAC motor because it would only intermittently kind of "choke" if you will and it only did it while I was idling and in drive. So before I decided to go further with the IAC motor I decided to take it and have the throttle body cleaned, but it eventually started to do it again. After that I had my fuel injectors cleaned and that didn't work much at all. Kept going until a couple months ago when it actually set off a check engine light and it started doing it almost violently.
Check engine light came up with the result that coil 2 is misfiring and I went about replacing the spark plugs and the boot to one of the coils and that made the issue go away no check engine light, no nothing. Past couple days it's been doing it very very occasionally but yet still doing it.
I don't have a whole lot of cash but I need a solution quickly because this is starting to become a pain I don't want it to become so bad that I'm without a vehicle that is operating properly again.
Only thing I can note is that now it is very occasional, and when the car could be otherwise be considered "cold" and often I can't make it repeat the same thing. Had oil above cylinders when I had the plugs replaced.
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I'm having the absolute worst time trying to fix my wife's 09 accent. We bought the car in '12 with 45k miles on it, and just hit 109k last month. About a year ago, the car started misfiring badly (hot day, after reaching operating temperature) followed by the CEL coming on, and a cylinder cutting out. I (mistakenly) figured coils, and replaced them. This "fix" didn't last more than a couple months.
I've also replaced the intake manifold gasket, suspecting a vacuum issue, due to the symptoms. While doing that, I put in a new PCV valve. To no avail, as the car still misses, chugs and shudders while accelerating at operating temperature. I've disconnected/checked the sensors on the manifold, the 02 sensors, the evap purge solenoid...I absolutely can not wrap my head around this.
The weird part is that the car starts fine when cold, (with only a split-second hesitation if you goose the throttle) and will run great for about 10 minutes/until it warms up. Then,once it warms up it will jerk, shudder and not accelerate at all unless you knife the gas. After letting off the gas, it goes right back to "misfiring" and the light comes back on. I can shut the car off, restart it, and it will run fine until the accelerator is pressed.
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I recently became the owner of a 2001 accent with 73k on it. The clutch needed changing on it so after stripping all that out when I put it back together I noticed that the fan switched on for about 20-30 seconds after turning the engine off. I've also had to disconnect the maf because it was running very lumpy after everything went back in. I'm not worried about the maf its only a few mine job to change. I'm just wondering if it's normal for the fan to come on like that?
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