Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2002 - Misfiring During Low RPMs
Aug 5, 2011
I have an 02 Accent 1.6L that has about 190,000km on it. It is now misfiring under low rpm's (anything under 2000) and the engine light will flash and then go off after about 5 seconds. Once the engine light went on and stayed on but I got the code read and reset it. The code was P 0303 Cylinder 3 misfire. I replaced the coil pack since that is apparently the common cause of this issue.
No luck with the new coil pack still have the same problem. I started smelling gas about 1000km ago so I assume that it is burning rich and putting raw fuel into the engine. My spark plugs are under 10,000km new and the wires show no signs of any problems. My next thought was to buy a new MAF sensor and hope that is the issue.
What this could be? FWIW the engine seems to run a little better for about 5km after using a throttle body clean on the TB. It also runs minimally better when I use a Lucas fuel additive.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.6L automatic. I just bought it today. It has 171,000 miles. The car is misfiring. It does it when I give it gas. It won't misfire if I only give a little gas but if I was to drive it then it spits and sputters. I put new wires on. what are some common things on these cars. I am new to a Hyundai.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai accent 1.6L w/ 190,000 miles. Around Christmas one cold morning right after getting gas at a grimey service station my car started running like crap misfiring badly. Kicking and bucking it barely got me to work (6 miles). I took the car to an Advanced auto and had them plug it in to check the engine light. It was throwing multiple codes P0300 (Multiple Misfire Detected), P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected), P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected). I told the guy at advanced that I thought it was bad gas and he agreed, so I put some dry gas and Lucas oil gas treatment in it. The problem seemed to get better within 50 miles, only misfiring when I drove it hard.
The problem has come back and this time the gas treatments are not working. I am getting the same two codes along with a new code P0133, (HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Slow Response) and the same symptoms, and to top it off my flex pipe has rusted out (for the second time).
So now I don't think the initial problem was water in the gas, and I am not sure what to make of it. The problem seems to happen more noticeably when I push the engine (first gear, and when accelerating) but then seems to get better when maintaining a constant speed. Also, the misfiring happens all the time but more noticeably when the engine gets to running temperature. First gear is by far the worst when the engine is warm.
- The car got a tune (filter(s), plugs wires) up about 6mo ago
- The timing belt is old about 90k on it
- A new crank shaft position sensor a year ago
- New O2 sensor (the 2nd one past flex pipe) 6mo ago
- Burning about 1qt of oil (synthetic) every 3k miles but no smoke
- The car has the original clutch w/ 191k on it!
This is where I stand. I don't care about the flex pipe or the timing belt. Unless I can defiantly pinpoint the problem to one of those two, the car has so many miles on it, to start dumping that kind of money into it doesn't make sense. I have put a spark test light on each of the plugs BUT the problem does not happen when the car is idle so it showed me nothing but properly functioning plugs. I was thinking the ignition coil (its original) but I think that would throw a code.
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I have hyundai accent 2005 1341cc 86hp, with BRC LPG kit. When i start the car at the morning, the engine misfiring around 500rpm for a few second (5sec-10sec)...
Sometimes the engine start ok in the 1100rpm - 1200rpm and when I touch the accelerator then misfiring again!
The car have 133.000km (11.000km with LPG).
I have replace the petrol filter 2 days ago and the all electric system without multiplier. I have clean throttle valve and the injectors with stp cleaner.
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So basically I thought it would be a great idea to degrease my motor from the top down.... After washing I start it up and drive down the road to head abunch of misfiring under heavy load or high rpm's.
My problem is that the misfiring won't throw a code. I then proceeded to buy a new ignition coil (thinking this was the problem) but with no code to go off which cylinder was bad I just switched the good ignition coil into each cylinder and starting it.
Up each time. None of them seemed to make it better. Also the injectors all seemed to be good. So what to do ?
2002 Ford F-250 5.4l
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I own a 2000 accent. Broke down, called racq, they said it was electrical problem with fuel pump and my car would kick over after someone cranks it and another person bangs the underside of the fuel tank a few times(exterior). then broke down again and car wouldn't start at all, had no spark would only crank not kick over, I took it to a mechanic and he found out it was the fuel relay switch so he replaced that and the car was running again, however it was only running on 3 cylinders and the fuel light would flash/turn on for seconds/ flick on and off even with a full tank.
Took it back to the mechanic and he said the fuel lines were blocked and needed new fuel filter so after he fitted all that was still running terrible, would misfire, fuel light still flashed and driving it around drank the fuel. Found out that it was the first cylinder that was the problem. I changed the sparkplugs and no difference
So I went to a car wreckers and replaced the 1st fuel injector (got it for 5 dollars off an accent that was wrote off from the back end) once i fitted the injector it started to run better. It is now running at about 75%. doesnt go as hard as it use to, still misfires, still drinking the fuel and the fuel light is always off and on when I am driving. It has low revs in idle mode so it rattles/shakes heavily as well and smell of fuel in the back seats every now and then.
oh and a side note - drove it a few nights ago and the clutch pedal is 'loose'... as in the grab is near enough clutch in 7/8ths of the way(near the floor) and when the clutch is fully out there is alot of 'play' which is when you press the clutch in a quarter of the way its nothing, no tension or anything just floppy, but im not 100% sure if the clutch cable needs tightening or something worse( i only replaced clutch about 2 months ago so it couldn't be burnt out?)
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I have a 2000 Hyundai accent gl and ever since the head gaskets been replaced its had an issue of almost stalling out when accelerating from a stop.
The cars overheating quite frequently as well like the thermostat isn't opening and the fans aren't kicking on.
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My car is a Canadian 2002 Accent. I believe it's a GLS, and it has the 1.5L engine.
It has a worsening misfire in the low RPM's, although the RPM range this happens in has been broadening. I can now smell unburnt gas when this happens.
This problem first reared its head around a year ago. I replaced the fuel and air filters without it resolving the problem. I changed the spark plugs - the old ones looked to be in reasonable shape, but suddenly it ran great with the new plugs - for a few months.
The misfire started to creep back in. Since then, I've replaced the upstream O2 sensor and cleaned the MAF sensor. I replaced the throttle position sensor. None of these things solved the problem.
The battery terminals were getting pretty corroded - I hadn't thought this would be related to the issue, but I cleaned them. This did not fully solve the problem, but it did drastically improve it. I bought a new battery the same day - the problem while not gone, seemed to be much more manageable.
About 100km later, the problem has significantly worsened again. I tested voltage across the battery - with the car running, the voltage is ~14.2V. When the fan is on full and my fairly high powered stereo is running, voltage still stays ~14.2V. I'm assuming that should mean that the alternator is good?
Previously, I had tried my ignition coil on my sister's Accent, and it seemed to work fine - but I'm not entirely convinced that the coil is guilt free. I have not done any further testing on the coil, and have not tested the spark plug cables - I'm not sure how to properly test the coil or cables, and don't know where to find the appropriate specs for them should I learn how to test them.
I got the car on the cheap, however, aside from the low (now mid) RPM stutter, the car seems to otherwise be in great shape, and only has 150,000 km on it. Unless it's going to cost an excessive amount, I would like to get this car running right again.
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i have accent 2000. RPMs goes up when car is in neutral. Why is this?
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I have a 2001 accent with a 1.6 .... It won't rev over 3000rpm's. It does not have any codes being set. If I unplug the IAC it will rev up just like normal. I tried replacing the IAC, TPS, and swapped ECM and nothing has changed it. I tested continuity of the IAC circuit to ECM and it tests good. Tested ground circuit and it tests good. Have correct voltage at sensor. Not sure what else to look at.
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I was climbing up a hill on the highway, and I was aware of my issue by the time I hit the top of the hill - my car far into the red zone on the temp gauge.
I pulled over just after i got off, let it cool for a few minutes, check oil and coolant and they seemed fine (from what i could, but it was dark. Drove home because it was only a few mins away, and it had cooled a bit already, but it started sounding really weird at low rpms (1200-1500) almost a clanging noise.
Just as i was pulling into my driveway, there were a whole bunch of weird noises, and at least one of them was me losing coolant from the cap. Turned off the car and the coolant overflow box was completely full, and the radiator cap had leaked some too.
Some other things i noticed - sounded like boiling water inside the large hoses, hoses felt empty, and the coolant box emptied all of a sudden after the hoses sucks everything back up.
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Just the other day I was driving my car till I've noticed the gears started slipping. At first it was having some issues shifting through the gears (automatic transmission btw). As soon as I got off the highway, I parked in a parking lot just to check underneath the hood. Everything looked fine, went to pull out of the parking lot, no reverse. The gears started to slip up really bad. I noticed that the RPM's kept on reving up and wouldn't go any faster than 20mph. I went to an advance auto parts to get automatic transmission fluid. Still having the same issue and no reverse either. I had to park the car at a location to get it towed back to my house. Some people are saying my transmission is bad, some say it could be a real simple fix. Where to start diagnosing this issue. The car was driving normally until last Monday. My question is where should I start to check and what can I do to see if the transmission is completely shot??
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I have a 2005 Hyndai Accent GT automatic (83,000 km) and I am having a problem with the gear shifting. It's happening more and more.
As I am driving I am pretty sure that it's changing to a higher gear but when I slow down it seems like its not shifting down at all. Coming off the Highway I have to slow down and when I speed back up it seems like its still in the high gear. The RPM's instantly jumps up.
The only way it fixes it self is when I pull over and shut off the car and then start it up again and I am fine. A friend at work said that I may have to have my transmission fluid checked and filled up.
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My 2002 Mazda MPV will stall everytime after the rpms go over 2,000 and I let off the gas. I can put it in neutral and it will start back up. Not sure if something is clogged or its electrical? It has 177,000
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I've got a misfire problem with my Focus. It started about a month ago and did not trip a code until last week. It stumbles on acceleration between 2,000 and 4,000 rpms. It is only a slight stumble and although noticeable, it does not impede driveability much. Last week I was able to get it to finally trip an OBD code. P302 - Cylinder 2 misfire. I changed the plugs and wires with no effect. I thought I had it narrowed down to the coil or injector until my wife noticed a new wrinkle.
Under normal driving conditions the misfire is annoying, but my wife found that if she turns on the A/C, it is undriveable and will not accelerate past 30 mph without some patience and a neck brace for the bucking. My first thought was the A/C compressor was freezing up. I turned off the A/C and left the blower on and it would not stop missing. I turn off the blower and it smooths right out to the annoyance I described first.
Right now I drive the car without A/C and blower whenever I accelerate. If I'm going a steady speed, all is well and I can run the blower and A/C.
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My tcm is reading codes p707, p734, p732, p745, p1529. Little information ive gathered is that my transmission only slips while OD is on and it only slips the first time it tries to reach 2nd and 4th gears after it slips the rest of the drive it shifts fine it also feels sluggish in OD as far as acceleration. I'd like to solve it with out replacing the tranny cause.
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Every time I fill up my gas and put the hands free nozzle switch it clicks every time.
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My 2002 Accent sometimes struggles to start. It is generally a great reliable car and has a great service history. About 8 months ago I notice that two or three times it wouldnt start on first or second turn of the key. I got a service and the problem disappeared until recently again. Every so often (once a week or so) it will struggle to start and I will have to wait a few seconds before trying again, where it does fire up.
This is not a battery problem as I put a new battery in it 2 days ago. The fuel pump noise when turning the key also comes on. Could this simply be that the Spark Plugs ned changing? It has driven 5,000 miles since it's last service.
By the way, when I say struggles to start, it will turn over absolutely normally, but it will not ignite and actually start the engine, or "fire" up.
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I have a '02 Accent with a 1.6L. Over the summer the A/C blew ice cold. I changed all the belts and after a few weeks I noticed that whenever I turned on the heat or A/C the car squeaked. After that I saw that the compressor would stop spinning whenever the squeaks happen. I sprayed the pulley and clutch with silicone spray and it worked great for a day then the same problem again. Eventually I snapped the A/C belt, replaced the idler pulley, and the tensioner bolt but still the same problem. What it could be?
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The car is a 2002 Accent GL LC ...
Here's my problem, The brake lights will not come on at all.
I've checked all the fuses, they're fine. Same with all the globes. I can't source a wiring diagram anywhere so I just started looking for faults.
I started with the pedal switch. There is no power getting to it at all but it earths fine. I thought the feed from the battery could be severed so I fed 12v straight to it. The switch works, but the lights are still not getting power.
To follow any of the wires in either direction from the switch, it looks like I'll have to remove the dash and that's really something I don't want to attempt without a good reason.
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