Golf IV R32 :: Harsh Vibration When Turning At Low Speed


Apr 25, 2012

Had a little tap tap tap vibration when doing between 45 and 65 mph. Assumed it was either wheel bearing or CV joint. Noticed the vibration when slightly turning like a lane change.

Now when we back out of a parking spot the whole car vibrates like it's stuck in AWD. Not sure, I guess a bad CV joint would cause this. I'm gonna inspect wheel bearings but I think they are fine. Not sure if the high speed vibration is still here.

CV joints causing nasty vibrations through out the car? Nasty harsh vibration at low speeds with the wheel turned? What's the proper way to inspect these CV joints??

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Golf IV R32 :: Humming / Vibration Sound Coming From Back When Turning At Slow Speed

I purchased my .:R last summer with just over 100k miles on it. Two prior owners, car was fully stock and in great condition except for one thing:

Humming/vibration ("brrrrr" sound) coming from the back of the car when turning at a slow speed with the wheel fully cranked, e.g. moving out of a parking spot. It only occurs when moving, and with the wheel fully or almost fully turned in one direction.

The guy I purchased it from brought it to a local VW dealership when he noticed this and they (obviously) did not find anything wrong with the car, and blamed it on the tire wear.

So I changed all four tires. Still made the noise.

Haldex oil had been changed by the original owner but not by the second owner (who owned the car for two years prior to my purchase). So I had the Haldex oil changed and my mechanic said it was dirty AND at a low level, and might be the source of this problem. The noise did diminish for a bit, but it is still present.

So, I'm afraid my transmission or differential are fried from running on too little oil. It does not affect anything but it is definitely worrying me.

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Lexus GX 2010+ :: Vibration When Turning At Low Speed

I have a switchback in my driveway, which it pretty steep. I've noticed that when I'm turning right going uphill on that switchback, with some accelerator applied to get up the hill, I get a vibration through the steering column and floor.

Not super-noticeable, but noticeable. I've also tried it on the flat. If I turn the steering wheel maybe a little more than halfway towards the "stop" at the very limit and then accelerate a little bit, the vibration is there too.

I don't think my old land cruiser or my current fj exhibit this vibration. Don't know if it would be originating from the transmission or cv joints. Doesn't seem completely right in an "off-road" designed vehicle.

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Mazda - Mazda6 :: Front End Vibration At Certain Speed And When Turning Right

2009 mazda6, I feel some vibration feels like wheel is out of balance coming from the front left wheel, it's most noticable at 30mph and again at 60mph. It's more noticable when i'm turning right, e.g. shiting to the right lane.

Already replaced four tires, balanced the tires and replaced front struts and rear shocks.. and it's still there!!

when shifting to the right lane, the vibration feels like da-da-da-da-da.. like I'm driving over some washboard road.

What could this be, is this CV-joint? can I ask dealer to check out CV-joint see if it's ok?

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Golf IV R32 :: Car Has Vibration While Turning

I am new to the r32 platform just acquired a car and have a few concerns hoping I can get them resolved. So I notice while turning left or right at slower speeds I have a very bad vibration similar to a car with a welded rear differential.

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In a nutshell, I'm tired of my incredibly harsh ride. I drive a 2006 3.6L with H&R Sport Springs. I had to put spring boosters in the rear to keep the tire from grinding, but whenever I have a passenger in the back it still grinds, especially over some turns or speed bumps.

The ride quality is also very harsh, it sucks. Plus the front wheels can't align anymore (at least that's what the guy at the mechanic's told me.) Basically, I want my ride quality to improve a lot. I'm debating going back to stock, but I'm not going to like the big gap in between my wheels.

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I bought a 2010 lexus ls460l awd with about 80,00 miles on it and also bought a warranty for 3 year/ 36,000 miles. After having the car for a couple of days i noticed things that I didn't like as well as figured weren't normal, alot of it had to do with noises, the dealer told me they didn't cover noises, and i asked if those noises meant something was wrong then what?? It was mostly squeaks and rattles that I didn't expect to hear in a car of this caliber, going over uneven road there's a constant squeak coming from the front, if its a bump its an extremely hard thump in the rear, and the idle.....is BY FAR the loudest I've ever heard in any car that I've been in.

When I turned the wheel all the way in either direction and pressed the gas, it made a rubbing noise with a harsh vibration, brakes squeak horribly about 2 days out of the week for about an hour then it goes away. When i took it in they said everything was fine except a part on the rear struts and said they needed some special oil for the vibrating rubbing issue. Picked up the car and noticed the vibrating issue was resolved but during the drive home noticed everything else stayed the same.

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I've gotten it a couple of times lately while turning at slow speed. The first guess is always the CV joint/boot - but wouldn't that be multiple pops?

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I hit one f-ing pothole and it blew my tire and bent the inside of my rim slightly, now this was a few weeks ago. ever since I have had this weird vibration noise going vvvrm vvvrm vvvrm when I get the car up to speed. took it to the dealer today and they are saying the wheel bearing is already bad!?!?! the car has 1500 miles on it. I hit a million potholes in my mk4 and had more than 150k on the clock before my wheel bearing went bad. I am not impressed with VW's craftsmanship if this is how its going to be. Now, the wheel is still round otherwise I would be hearing a thump thump thump while driving wouldn't I? also the tire is still holding air, no leaks since I had the new tire mounted. but the dealership is saying that the wheel is so bent its part of the problem.

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So I've noticed that the R sometimes makes a heavy clunk when turning 90 degrees at any speed. I probably heard it once every couple of weeks, but I never investigated. I finally asked a shop to take a look at it, and it turns out the dealer never removed the shipping spacers.

Apparently these are placed on the car to minimize the stress of shipping via sea and road. I imagine I'll get a little more transfer out of my suspension, making potholes less jarring. Is that a fair assumption?

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Noticed the front suspension makes some "flexing" noises when turning the wheel during slow speed maneuvers? (e.g. during parallel parking). The best way I can describe it is it sounds like the suspension is being compressed as I turn the wheel as the car has almost come to a complete stop. (yes I know we should avoid turning the wheel when stationary). I realize it's probably normal. I'll just add it to the list of other noises my car likes to make. My car is bone stock btw.

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Got the stabilizer bar recall done in February and have been on a couple of long trips since then. No real issues until about a week ago I noticed at low speed, when turning left, and usually if there was a small bump or incline........like turning into my driveway, there would be a popping/grinding sound. It could happen at speed, but never heard anything. I go last night to install some ECS cross drilled and slotted rotors and flush spacer kit and noticed this on the left front....

Well honestly I noticed first that I needed to wash my car, just got back from the beach and it has been raining here, but is this installed correctly. The bar is bent near the top, easier to see in person and I am fairly positive this is not correct. Called the dealership and they are going to check it out Monda. The picture below is of a left front on a MK7 and it appears to be the correct.

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I'm hoping to see if there is another solution here. I just hit 100k on my .:R and it has developed a vibration that increase with speed front right. I have done a few things already including the following: swapped out winter wheels for summer, had summer wheels re-balanced (both are hub centric). Both lower control arm bushings on L&R side (both were original), new ball joint front right (it was wiped), new hub assembly/wheel bearing front right, re-torqued all the sub frame bolts to spec, inspected tie rod end - appears OK, inspected strut mount - appears OK, strut and coil appear OK, neither CV boot is not torn. replacing the wheel bearing made it quieter but the vibration is still there. It feels like the worst possible unbalanced wheel and the vibration is exaggerated under a load. I'd try a CV next but I'm having a hard time sourcing a front right CV.

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Car still vibrates at highway speeds...

I feel the vibration in my seat and throughout the car at about 60+mph. The faster I go, the more noticeable it is. I can even hear it.

Dropped off at the shop. Shop called me back stating that the vibrations are being caused by the two tires that need to be replaced.

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I have a 2014 Wolfsburg with almost 5k miles. I am really now worrying about my water pump crapping out on me but I heard this grinding sound yesterday.

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So I got my Haldex fluid and DSG fluid changed two weeks ago. When I picked the car up I noticed a vibration when I was making tight turns. Last week I called the dealer and told them. They said to drive it a bit more to see if it works it self out. But now after getting back from H2Oi, it still is doing it but not as bad.

Its a vibration you can feel and a rumble you can hear when making a tight turn at slow speed. Like turning into a parking space or turning at a stop sign. What would this be? I searched but couldn't find an exact answer.

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I have a 2012 2.5 with auto trans and am experiencing a problem. After coming to a stop and easing pressure from the brake pedal, if you re-apply pressure you feel a harsh engagement of the transmission, feels like you put it in neutral and then back in drive. Sometimes it will do it while stopped with no change in pedal pressure and feels like someone rear ended you.

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