Lexus GX 2010+ :: Vibration When Turning At Low Speed
Dec 11, 2010
I have a switchback in my driveway, which it pretty steep. I've noticed that when I'm turning right going uphill on that switchback, with some accelerator applied to get up the hill, I get a vibration through the steering column and floor.
Not super-noticeable, but noticeable. I've also tried it on the flat. If I turn the steering wheel maybe a little more than halfway towards the "stop" at the very limit and then accelerate a little bit, the vibration is there too.
I don't think my old land cruiser or my current fj exhibit this vibration. Don't know if it would be originating from the transmission or cv joints. Doesn't seem completely right in an "off-road" designed vehicle.
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My wife drives a 2013 RX 350 AWD. During this winter, when she turned right (once from a standstill, once without standstill), the car went out of control at a very low speed. The vehicle has around 12000 miles on the odometer. The Lexus dealer could not replicate it. He said it might have been snow on the wheels. I too experienced it once and was very scared to use her car after that.
Here is what happens: Turned right at slow speed, suddenly the car sort of accelerates goes left, right and kind of rocks and then after 15 feet or so steadies itself. My wife has reduced her own usage of the car due to the freight she got twice.
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2010 RX 350 NAP ... Brand New and OEM where it would apply : Tires (Conti's LX20s)
Brakes / Rotors (had same shake before replacing and did not improve after replacement but maybe I am dealing with a bad caliper here)
Tie Rod Ends
Stab Links
Lower Control Arm Ball Joint
None of which have solved a vibration issue thus far. Strut feels solid and the corner push test had the car settle out in less than 2 bounces.
If car has sat a while the driver front (where the issue lies) feels like a imbalanced tire/bent rim (rotated the wheels just to be sure it didn't follow the wheel/tire) or like a broken belt. The tires are almost brand new and only put them on because I was trying to eliminate the point of issue.
When braking, a light touch to the brake pedal makes a almost light clank sound (like weight shift is causing the clank or perhaps a sign of a bad caliper (although pad wear looks even but didn't have rotors rechecked but even with brand new rotors it was there so I don't feel it's a warped rotor plus the vibration is there even when not applying the brakes.
There is only one control arm and the bushing didn't look cracked beyond the normal surface cracking I have seen on most rubber bushing. The upper support is from the strut so perhaps a bad strut or maybe strut support/cap/bearing?
At a total loss as the local garages cannot find anything wrong. My thought was a bad wheel bearing, although there is not any grinding sound that you typically hear when a hub is going bad.
Could also be the CV Joint but not sure how to tell if that really issue the issue unless I replace all the other parts first (hub, caliper, strut/support/bearing).
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I purchased a set of new LTX MS2 tires back in October and a week ago a got a nail on the right front tire, specifically the side wall so they couldn't fix it so they replaced the tire with a new one. Now when I step on the brakes at 60 mph, the steering wheel vibrates. Can the new tire be causing that? I looked at the weights and one set of weights is taped kind of crooked, can the balancing cause it too?
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Had a little tap tap tap vibration when doing between 45 and 65 mph. Assumed it was either wheel bearing or CV joint. Noticed the vibration when slightly turning like a lane change.
Now when we back out of a parking spot the whole car vibrates like it's stuck in AWD. Not sure, I guess a bad CV joint would cause this. I'm gonna inspect wheel bearings but I think they are fine. Not sure if the high speed vibration is still here.
CV joints causing nasty vibrations through out the car? Nasty harsh vibration at low speeds with the wheel turned? What's the proper way to inspect these CV joints??
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2009 mazda6, I feel some vibration feels like wheel is out of balance coming from the front left wheel, it's most noticable at 30mph and again at 60mph. It's more noticable when i'm turning right, e.g. shiting to the right lane.
Already replaced four tires, balanced the tires and replaced front struts and rear shocks.. and it's still there!!
when shifting to the right lane, the vibration feels like da-da-da-da-da.. like I'm driving over some washboard road.
What could this be, is this CV-joint? can I ask dealer to check out CV-joint see if it's ok?
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I purchased my .:R last summer with just over 100k miles on it. Two prior owners, car was fully stock and in great condition except for one thing:
Humming/vibration ("brrrrr" sound) coming from the back of the car when turning at a slow speed with the wheel fully cranked, e.g. moving out of a parking spot. It only occurs when moving, and with the wheel fully or almost fully turned in one direction.
The guy I purchased it from brought it to a local VW dealership when he noticed this and they (obviously) did not find anything wrong with the car, and blamed it on the tire wear.
So I changed all four tires. Still made the noise.
Haldex oil had been changed by the original owner but not by the second owner (who owned the car for two years prior to my purchase). So I had the Haldex oil changed and my mechanic said it was dirty AND at a low level, and might be the source of this problem. The noise did diminish for a bit, but it is still present.
So, I'm afraid my transmission or differential are fried from running on too little oil. It does not affect anything but it is definitely worrying me.
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I have a 2010 Camry LE, 2.5L auto, with approx 35k miles. While driving between 65-75 mph (I don't drive above that, so I can't tell you if it keeps going), I get a slight vibration in the seat, floorboard, and steering wheel. If no one is in the passenger front seat you can look over and see the headrest and seat vibrating like a massage chair.
I had the wheels checked and three were bent (I bought it used, so I don't know how the wheels got bent). I had new aftermarket wheels installed, same 16 inch size as the OEM. That didn't fix it. I had the wheels/tires hunter road force balanced, found out the two in the back were out of spec. So I had brand new Michelin MXV4's installed all around and hunter road force balance. That didn't fix it (though it is a lot better -- clearly the bad tires and bad wheels were causing part of the problem).
I had the car aligned to perfection. That didn't fix it.
I had a rear brake that was rubbing so I replaced the discs and pads in the back, but that didn't fix it.
I've checked all the wheel bearings for any signs of being loose, but they don't shake at all when the car is jacked up.
I've checked the struts, both by bumping the car at the corners and a visual inspection, but see nothing wrong with them.
I've checked the CV shafts -- the boots are fine, there's no play in them, nothing.
I've taken the dogbone mount off and checked it -- no cracks.
I've taken apart the front brakes to check them. No problems there (they even have new discs).
I've checked the ball joints -- no play. I've checked the steering linkage -- no play.
There's no pulsation in the brake pedal.
If the car is vibrating at a lower speed, it's not noticeable. But once you hit about 65-70, it becomes obvious to the driver. I've had passengers in the car who didn't notice, but they aren't holding onto the steering wheel and pushing the gas pedal. Both give a massaging-like pulsation.
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I have recently noticed a vibration that occurs at VERY low speed - such as below 0mph and 1mph, while just starting (or stopping).
The best way to describe this vibration is that it feels somewhat similar to going over a rumble-strip - but not quite so intense.
It only happens for a very short time while just starting off (or coming to a stop) - and then goes away. You almost have to try to make it happen. If I try to carefully control the increase of the car's speed, I can -sort of- extend the amount of time that this happens.
I certainly have to be on the 'look out' to notice this and attempt to make it happen to really identify it. Otherwise, (if I accelerate too quickly i.e.: normally) it just feels like a couple of bumps in the road.
I think I read on here somewhere something about a breakdown of the winding insulation that provides such an effect? Is there any straightforward way (perhaps with a scan gauge or other tool) to conclusively diagnose this?
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I have a 2010 Mountaineer Premier AWD V8 47k miles. On acceleration there is a hum/vibration in the steering wheel and the gas pedal between 30-50 mph. This is my third Mountaineer and I have never noticed it on the others, I just got this one about 2 months ago. The others were V6 models but were AWD. When I turn the 4x4 to the lock mode there are various noises/vibrations coming from the front of the car while it accelerates and also when turning.
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My 2010 LS 460 had the Control Arms replaced at 45,196 miles. Now, I am hearing a clicking sound at low speeds when I am turning in either direction. I can hear it with the windows rolled up and the radio on, it is fairly pronounced. The vehicle now has 51,350 miles on it. What this could be?
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My car rides smooth until 75-80 mph. At that speed I get a slight but bothersome vibration. I've had the front wheels rebalanced twice and even got an alignment (though usually have no effect on vibrations) but it's still there. I didn't know what to think. Last nite a relative called to ask my opinion of the very same issue he is having with his 08 GS. Almost identical. He says his vibration starts at 80 but ends at 85. He is on stock wheels so my 20's seem less likely to be the problem. This is a recent occurrence. My car has been smooth for 4 years.
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I have a 2006 LEXUS GS300 AWD. I loved how it looked stock but I wanted more. I replaced the stock shocks with Brian Crowler coilovers and got some 20" Niche Verona staggered wheels. I dropped it about 2 inches. The problem is that when I take off I have a vibration that comes from the car up until i reach about 20 miles per hour. However, when I put on the stock wheels there is no vibration. I got it put on the rack and all the arms are fine. I even checked the tires and the rims for any problems and they are fine.
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About month ago I found used lexues es 350, 2008 in one of the dealership and bought it for my daughter . I test drive the car and found the vibration steering on speed 57_65 or .not like real lexues which is smooth. Any way I thought with alignment would be fix. But no luck.
I found another Lexues repair. They said I need to change [B]transmission and motor mount I bought it and after replace same as before.
Some other one told me could be Torque converter. This is really big problem and I can't let her drive the car.
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Mazda5; 2010; 105,000 miles.
Recently, our Mazda has started making a subdued grinding sound. It happens only when accelerating from idling to 10 miles per hour. It does not occur over 10 mph, in neutral, or park. It doesn't happen when starting the car or in reverse either. according to my wife, it does happens when turning right at slow speeds, but not left.
We have just driven it to our mechanic but it may take a couple days before they are able to look at it.
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I just bought a 2008 LS600 Obsidian with Exec package. Happy with the car except for some steering vibration at low speeds when turning. Took it to Newport Lexus...they say..."normal for an AWD LS600".
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Is there any way I can raise or lower the temperature without turning on the fan speed? For example if I want to raise the temperature from 68 to 72, I literally have to hit the "Lo" speed and then raise the temp.
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Purchased a 2009 CPO from my local Lexus dealer 4 months ago. Had vibration in seat when driving at highway speed. Have had it in 5 times to be fixed. 4 times for road force balancing, fixing any imperfection in each wheel, etc with no success. Drove with GM this week and he agreed with the vibration and they put 4 new tires on (Michelin Pilot) - I paid for 2, they paid for 2. They said it fixed it. Drove it home (20 miles on highway) - did not work at all - still vibration in seat (rear end). Have put car in neutral at highway speed (drive shaft vibration?) but did not make a difference.
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I have noticed that the passenger seat has a vibration that can not be felt anywhere else in the truck. You can actually see/feel it from the drivers seat when no one is sitting in it. However, you can not feel this vibration through the steering wheel, gas peddle, door panels, etc. It increases with speed with is present at low and high speeds. My thought is that perhaps the seat is loose? When sitting in it it feels like the back right wheel is out of balance but I know it isn't (recent road force balance and feeling in all other seats confirms this). Could it be I just need to tighten the seat/tracks?
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My 2010 Expedition Limited AC seems to be stuck in the highest fan speed setting. Changing the setting on the panel control do nothing to change the speed. But you can adjust the temp and it will respond. It is a dual control unit. When I try to turn the system to off completely it will go to what I believe is the vents and stay on full blast. If I turn the truck off and on again the whole system remains off until I turn it on again. The only way to turn it completely off is to turn it to off mode and turn the truck off.
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I've been feeling more and more, a vibration in the RX400 AWD. Just to be certain, I had the tires rotated and balanced....still there. My conclusion is a wheel bearing.
What I notice, from 60 up to 80 MPH (speed limit in WY & MT), a slight vibration in the car. I can't pinpoint if it's front or rear, but there is certainly one occurring.
So, is there anything else that could contribute to this or is it usually a wheel bearing going bad? I just drove 1200 miles over the holiday and didn't notice much of a change. Still vibration. Not so strong that my wife has noticed, but enough that I'm feeling it.
I assume it's just a complete assembly and can be changed out relatively easily. I've done my 4wd suburban so I'm guessing similar in work.
How to test which assembly is going bad? Front/Back....Left/Right?
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