Golf V R32 :: Heavy Clunk When Turning 90 Degrees At Any Speed
Oct 18, 2010
So I've noticed that the R sometimes makes a heavy clunk when turning 90 degrees at any speed. I probably heard it once every couple of weeks, but I never investigated. I finally asked a shop to take a look at it, and it turns out the dealer never removed the shipping spacers.
Apparently these are placed on the car to minimize the stress of shipping via sea and road. I imagine I'll get a little more transfer out of my suspension, making potholes less jarring. Is that a fair assumption?
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
I have the same clunk others have suggested may be strut mounts or something. It only happens when I'm turning hard left and going slow. it may happen only when I'm going slow because it's the only time i turn the wheel that much. it's not too loud and sounds like it's coming from the right front wheel well, somewhere around there.
It started about 3 days ago and is getting much more frequent in the last day. It now is happening every time i turn the wheel hard left, and occasionally when I turn right.I have a loose bumper right front also. it's going into the body shop next week to further diagnose by elimination.
QUESTION: is the car safe to drive if there's the possibility of a loose strut mount? i don't know too much about the suspension assembly.
View 1 Replies
2005 GTI 1.8T 5spd 97k
Pretty much every time I back up and turn, I hear one loud, single pop from the front end. Occasionally, it will happen when I start forward from a stop (if turning) but that's it. It never happens at any other time. I can't decide if it's suspension or steering related. Where could this be coming from?
I have gone through the front end thoroughly and the only issue I find is my passenger inner CV boot has begun to crack and has lost some grease. I would expect a CV failure to click anytime I'm moving and turning. Again, I never hear this noise under any other circumstances.
View 19 Replies
Installed a new OEM CV axle on my 05 GTI the other day because I had been having a lot of issues with off brands and then today (I'm a delivery driver) on a run I was turning into traffic from a stop and I heard a clunk and then no power. The engine was still running flawlessly, but no power driver to the wheels.
I'm not going to be able to get a good picture until we get there but I'll upload pics when I get them. The bracket looked completely f'd. I could only find two of the 6 bolts that hold the CV axle in place and one was snapped in half.
View 24 Replies
I just got a new Golf TDI. I have about 500 miles on it so far. I recently went over a speed bump in the road and the car made an awful clunk sound sort of like the strut reached the end of its length reach. The car continued to make this klunk sound when I'd go over smaller bumps just not as loud. What this could be and how to remedy it?
View 5 Replies
I have recently been hearing a clunking noise coming from the front end of my R while braking lightly to moderately at low speed. What this could be?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2003 Jetta Wagon with 49000 miles on it. I noticed that when turning at slow speeds (like taking turns in a parking lot) I hear a klunk coming from the area of the left front wheel, and I think I feel it through the steering wheel. Yesterday I was going around a hairpin turn at a shopping mall and heard two clunks. Driving straight it doesn't happen.
View 8 Replies
I have a '74 Dodge B-100 van, 318 V-8, with a 3-speed A727 TorqueFlite tranmission (which was totally rebuilt about 20,000 miles ago). Overall, this old baby that we call "Blue Thunder" is in almost pristine condition. It starts well, runs great, and over the years has been highly reliable. It's been in the family for almost 38 years and is special to all of us. I've maintained it extremely well from day one.
Here is the big problem.....under very light acceleration at the 2-3 upshift, it makes a loud-sounding and aggressive-feeling "clunk" or heavy sounding "thump". Under hard acceleration, or accelerating on an upgrade (hill), it does not make this sound at all and I do not feel or hear it at all. There are no other accompanying symptoms such as whines, roars or vibrations. I recently took it to a reputable (in business for 35 years) transmission shop recently with the above problem description. He checked the fluid and adjusted the kickdown band. This same shop had serviced the transmission a year earlier. He recommended that I let him him take it to a general auto repair shop down down the street for a diagnosis on the "loud clunk" ....as he did not think it was a transmission problem.
I agreed for him to do so since, the shop "down the street" is also known for quality repair work. The written problem description was sent aong with the van. In a week or so, the auto repair shop called and said all they could find was a little wear in the spider gears in the rear differential. I gave them permission, since the differential was already open. to replace anything that looked like it needed to be replaced. It took a while to get the parts, but they replaced the spider gears, both side bearing cups, and 1 of the differential bearing adjusters. Of course the work included new gear oil and gasket for the differential cover. It was an onerous bill, but I didn't complain, thinking that the terrible "clunk" would be gone. I picked up the van and immediately noticed no difference at all. The loud "clunk" was still there under the exact same conditions.
I took it back and asked the owner to ride with me where upon I easily recreated the "clunk" by accelerating very lightly. He said, "Oh, that's in the transmission, because it's only makes the sound when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear". I called the transmission shop back and they want nothing to do with it....saying that a noise like that one is practically impossible to pinpoint. He said even if the transmission were rebuilt, he cannot guarantee the noise would not be there. Both shops say the U-joints, yokes, engine mounts, and transmission mount all look OK.
View 6 Replies
I've gotten it a couple of times lately while turning at slow speed. The first guess is always the CV joint/boot - but wouldn't that be multiple pops?
View 12 Replies
Had a little tap tap tap vibration when doing between 45 and 65 mph. Assumed it was either wheel bearing or CV joint. Noticed the vibration when slightly turning like a lane change.
Now when we back out of a parking spot the whole car vibrates like it's stuck in AWD. Not sure, I guess a bad CV joint would cause this. I'm gonna inspect wheel bearings but I think they are fine. Not sure if the high speed vibration is still here.
CV joints causing nasty vibrations through out the car? Nasty harsh vibration at low speeds with the wheel turned? What's the proper way to inspect these CV joints??
View 15 Replies
Noticed the front suspension makes some "flexing" noises when turning the wheel during slow speed maneuvers? (e.g. during parallel parking). The best way I can describe it is it sounds like the suspension is being compressed as I turn the wheel as the car has almost come to a complete stop. (yes I know we should avoid turning the wheel when stationary). I realize it's probably normal. I'll just add it to the list of other noises my car likes to make. My car is bone stock btw.
View 2 Replies
Got the stabilizer bar recall done in February and have been on a couple of long trips since then. No real issues until about a week ago I noticed at low speed, when turning left, and usually if there was a small bump or incline........like turning into my driveway, there would be a popping/grinding sound. It could happen at speed, but never heard anything. I go last night to install some ECS cross drilled and slotted rotors and flush spacer kit and noticed this on the left front....
Well honestly I noticed first that I needed to wash my car, just got back from the beach and it has been raining here, but is this installed correctly. The bar is bent near the top, easier to see in person and I am fairly positive this is not correct. Called the dealership and they are going to check it out Monda. The picture below is of a left front on a MK7 and it appears to be the correct.
View 9 Replies
When I go really slow like less than 10 mph and turn my wheels, my struts creek and make noise. Lowered on a H&R coilover kit. I bought car with it last year i am second owner so the suspension is getting old. Possibly old as car is installed when 1st owner bought it in 04. i think the struts are just going bad.
View 2 Replies
I purchased my .:R last summer with just over 100k miles on it. Two prior owners, car was fully stock and in great condition except for one thing:
Humming/vibration ("brrrrr" sound) coming from the back of the car when turning at a slow speed with the wheel fully cranked, e.g. moving out of a parking spot. It only occurs when moving, and with the wheel fully or almost fully turned in one direction.
The guy I purchased it from brought it to a local VW dealership when he noticed this and they (obviously) did not find anything wrong with the car, and blamed it on the tire wear.
So I changed all four tires. Still made the noise.
Haldex oil had been changed by the original owner but not by the second owner (who owned the car for two years prior to my purchase). So I had the Haldex oil changed and my mechanic said it was dirty AND at a low level, and might be the source of this problem. The noise did diminish for a bit, but it is still present.
So, I'm afraid my transmission or differential are fried from running on too little oil. It does not affect anything but it is definitely worrying me.
View 12 Replies
So yet I found out about another common issue but not that publicized. This is the grinding sound when turning at full lock (left or right) in slow speed. I've read several people in the forum who has encountered this. I read different remedies but the most common one is to have the CV boots lubricated.
I have a 2014 Wolfsburg with almost 5k miles. I am really now worrying about my water pump crapping out on me but I heard this grinding sound yesterday.
View 12 Replies
I have a 2013 es 300h.
To make a long story short, i had to have my front bumper replaced in May due to an accident but there was no mechanical damage to the car. They did an alignment to the car just to be safe.
Earlier this week, I'm not sure why I noticed that the steering was a little tight/heavy when turning left or right sometimes. It wasn't a major challenge just a little more strength then when driving straight.
Today, I took the car to the dealer and they ran all of the tests and everything came up fine except there was a code that the hybrid battery had been disconnected during the repair while sitting at the shop which created some sort of code that they cleared. The tech mentioned that this may have created the steering issues since the car may have thought their was low power.
After, I did notice it was a little better but still a little tight at times. I took the car back to the dealer and had the tech drive the car and he said the steering was normal for the car. Are they missing something or is it that I forgot how the car drives?
View 4 Replies
Lexus es 350 steering wheel is heavy/tight when turning?
View 2 Replies
I recently bought a 2004 XC90 T6. It has several issue and one strange issue is the sluggish performance: the vehicle sort of hesitates, requires quite a bit of acceleration effort to get up to speed, feels 'heavy', and in general does not seem to have the right amount of power. What makes the issue strange is that performance improves, noticeably, when the car is starting to run out of fuel, or when the "low fuel" light comes on. It is not a placebo effect: i've verified it several times that soon after the light is on, the vehicle becomes a lot more responsive, accelerates well, engine seems to sound quieter a little even.
I do not know much about cars. I am slowly learning after purchasing this vehicle. I verified that the air filter is clean. It has synthetic oil put in. I recently changed the spark plugs (very proud of that), that did not seem to improve the performance. My plan is to purchase and configure VIDA diagnostic tool and scan the vehicle while driving. It might also be worth mentioning that the vehicle is getting very poor mpg, averaging to 6 km per little.
One important note: the MAF sensor is faulty: i drive with it being unplugged, however when it is plugged in i experience the same as described above. I know it is faulty because when it is plugged in and the car is started up, the RPM goes to 2000+ and there for up to a minute or longer. If the MAF is unplugged this does not happen.
View 1 Replies
This morning the outside temperature reading on my dash in my '12 Golf hit 39 degrees but I didn't hear it ding because I had my radio on and I was paying attention to oncoming traffic while at a stop sign. Then this afternoon I was in motion, with the radio off, and the outside temperature reading hit 39 degrees and it didn't ding - so the first time obviously wasn't due to not paying attention to the dinging. It just . . . stopped dinging! I hope this isn't a major repair, I'm glad it's still under warranty.
View 24 Replies
I have a 02 gti 1.8t and my a/c stopped blowing cold out of nowhere. I added r134 and it didn't make a difference. Changed the switch near the firewall in the engine bay and it still did nothing. Compressor clutch kicks on when a/c button is pressed. Could it be I have a leak?car has 147k on it.
View 6 Replies
Just got my golf R 4 door/Nav. When driving straight on the highway (regardless of road crown)... my wheel was about 4 degrees off to the left. No problem alignment wise, but the nice flat bottom wheel is cockeyed.
Car has only 330 miles on it. Took it back to the dealership, they put it on the alignment rack - actually had me sit in the car ensuring the wheel was straight as the tech adjusted the Tie Rods below.
This made it better - I instantly noticed it was better when I took a short test ride with the tech, just as they were closing. However, on the highway home I noticed its still about 2 degrees to the left. Really frustrating as now I have to take it back to the dealer a second time.
The tech actually showed me the alignment printout which was close to-but not totally perfect. Said the only way to make it perfect is to adjust the sub-frame? Really? on a new vehicle.
I do have plans to mod the car's suspension with H&R Coilovers - but will not touch anything until I get this wheel thing square and I am 100% satisfied.
View 13 Replies
