Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Harsh 2 - 3 Transmission Sift Under Light To Moderate Throttle
Aug 9, 2015
4 months ago we bought a 2010 SF V6 with 70,000kms - we immediately noticed this very harsh 2-3 transmission sift under light to moderate throttle. Mostly in parking lots or accelerating slowly. Took it to the dealer and the flashed the ECU - - - this made the issue a little better.
I was reading around the net - the problem seems to be associated with sticky solenoids. I decided to change the fluid < 4 drain and fills > to Maxlife and I added a product from a company called Lubegard, this completely eliminated any harsh shifting at any speed or throttle.
I dont know if it was the additive or the 90% new fluid - however if the solenoids are the cause - keeping them properly lubricated seems like a good idea.
I will also be installing a Magnefine inline transmission filter as well. I have used them in the past with great results.
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The C6 in my truck is acting odd.. its into drive by 17 to 21mph under light throttle and under moderate throttle it slips occasionally when shifting, the 460 had a fuel spurting motorcraft on it, had to swap that for an edelbrock 1406 to drive it. The kickdown is there but setup for another truck. I don't know if the c6 has a vacume modulator or if its all controlled through the kickdown rod.. it does need a fluid an filter change that's gonna happen this week.. this trans just has me leery with the soft shifts.. its in 2nd almost immediately after takeoff....
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I just bought a 2010 Santa Fe. All seems fine except that when the car is cold it goes into R harshly (with a bump and a small delay)and also is a little bit irregular in normal gear. I'm used to have cars with transmission problems unfortunately and happily it's nothing like that but I'd really finally like to have a vehicle without any tranny issues.
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2011 SF. 52000kms.
A little while ago I noticed a brief vibration (felt through floor and steering) with normal acceleration from stand still... I attrributed this to the cold weather and perhaps oil thickening, as the problem went away after the car was warmed up. Since then I have noticed that it's continually happening on a regular basis, but only for a short period.. I was still thinking that it was the cold, but that wasn't the case because I left the car idle at start up for 20 minutes until well warm.
Now.. If I slowly accelerate (not putting much load on the car) there is no vibration at all. When the car reaches a certain speed, the vibration goes away. There is also no vibration after about 15 minutes of driving.
I had a neighbor test it with me to confirm and he felt it, and initially thought differential oil, but then suggested myriad other things from the CV boot to bearings to etc etc.
I need to take it to the dealership so they can experience the vibration but would certainly need to leave it there over night so they can check it out when "cold".
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Any input on replacing the entire transmission valve body or just individual shift solenoids? My truck has begun experiencing a harsh shift from 1st to 2nd under light acceleration accompanied by occasional shift flare from 2nd to 3rd and 5th to 6th. I have located parts to do either job. It looks straight forward from just disconnecting the harness. I also understand there are different bands associated with the solenoids. Is there a requirement to have new transmission programming to accompany swapping these components?
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When I get of the throttle my R is acting weird. It almost feels like the engine is moving, it doesn't feel smooth anymore. Also when I get to a stop and downshift it feels harsh . When I accelerate and go off the throttle it feels harsh, just if my engine would torque. But I checked the mounts and they are all good. Could this be something with the differential as well?
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Just talked to a good friend with a 2008 limited, V6. While his wife was driving the throttle went full, then back to idle, then full while her foot was off the pedal. She put it in neutral got to the side of the road and turned it off. She just had towed to the nearest dealer. She said the dealer suspects the Throttle Position Sensor....seems to be a common problem for Hyundai, based on other issues seen on this forum with some losing power, etc. Surprised there isn't more information from Hyundai as the TPS seems to be a weak point.
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Replacing the tps themselves? Is it something a newbie at diy car stuff can do? I'm getting codes P2016, P1295 and P161B, and I see no problem with the car except one thing, when the engine is cold the shift from P to D is rough. Is the tps causing this?
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Driving on the motorway yesterday, all fine until i lost power..engine light came on, but I was able to continue driving for about 6 miles (trying to get to services) but eventually it would go no further, pulled over and found that the intercooler pipe had come off, replaced it but still no joy.
Recovery van attended and plugged in diagnostic and found a dpf fault and gas pressure valve fault, he cleared the light but i think the faults still remained.. so i had to be recovered home.
The engine will start but it does not quiet sound right, no response from the throttle and if i put it into drive the engine stops.. Its a 2007 2.2
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For the most part, I'm pretty happy with my 2010 Santa Fe SE (V6 AWD Automatic).
When I'm coming up to a yield sign, or otherwise slowing down to say 5-10 miles an hour but not a complete stop, and then when I start to try to go again, there is a hesitation and then the vehicle kind of jerks as it starts. It's like it takes a half second to a second for the throttle to respond, and by then it revs higher than I expect. I don't know if it's the throttle delay or a delay downshifting before it starts, or a combination of the two.
I've also noticed that a half second or so delay when just sitting in park and quickly pressing the throttle and releasing. I can press the pedal to about 50% and release it before the RPMs respond at all. Then it'll rev up and back down as you'd expect, just not WHEN you'd expect.
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited and am having a major problem. On 3 different occasions, the accelerator pedal has stuck open at full throttle. At first I dismissed the problem as a fluke or the floormat and pedal getting stuck together.
This week while on vacation with my family in Myrtle Beach, SC, I was pulling onto a 4 lane and had to "punch it" from a dead stop to get up to speed with the other vehicles. When I got up to the desired speed I let off of the accelerator pedal and to my dismay the vehicle kept going. I told my family to hold on and immediately hit the brake and safely pulled into the median while the vehicle was still surging. With my foot on the brake my wife put it in neutral and the engine sounded like it was going to blow up. I checked to see if the floormat and accelerator pedal was stuck together somehow and they were not touching. I do not know if it was me freeing up the pedal with my foot or if the vehicle some how on it's own finally reved back down to normal RPM's.
In essence my family and I were in a runaway vehicle and luckily the braking system was strong enough to safely stop us while at full throttle.
This was a scary experience for my wife and I and a horrifying experience for my children. It was the exact situation Toyota had a couple of years ago with the accelerator sticking on their Prius models.
Is the accelerator system a mechanical one with a throttle cable going to the throttle body or is everything computerized. I do not know if it is a mechanical or computer problem.
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My wife's 07 Santa Fe goes into limp mode while she's on the freeway. Had it towed to a mechanic. They report codes were: 0101, 0102, 1295, 2105, 2106, 2173. They said the sensors in the gas pedal were sending bad signal to throttle which burned out the actuator. So they wanted to replace throttle body and gas pedal sensors. They wanted $895.
Didn't seem right, so towed it to dealer. They said the first mechs were just guessing. Only the throttle body needs replacing. They wanted $960 total.
I bought a used throttle body off another 07 SF with similar vin number to avoid needing the ecm to be reprogrammed. Cost $225.
Couldn't find procedure for replacement in my pdf shop manual. Seems like this should be simple though. Anything special I need to know? Am I on the right track?
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I have a 2012 2.5 with auto trans and am experiencing a problem. After coming to a stop and easing pressure from the brake pedal, if you re-apply pressure you feel a harsh engagement of the transmission, feels like you put it in neutral and then back in drive. Sometimes it will do it while stopped with no change in pedal pressure and feels like someone rear ended you.
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Didn't notice this on the test drive, but as soon as I started living with my Santa Fe (about 3-4 weeks now) I can't believe how harsh and rough the ride is. Very very uncompromising over all road irregularities - even those you can't even really see. 2013 Santa Fe Sport?
It's so bad I've been searching for aftermarket struts and shocks to replace what must be garbage OEM parts - but nothing seems to be available for it yet.
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I've been told by my dealer that the 6-speed transmission in our rigs is known to shift roughly. They have therefore pronounced my truck healthy. However, I don't think I believe it. I've never seen a vehicle that lurched forward on upshifts under moderate acceleration. It behaves if I punch it. It behaves if I accelerate like my granny. Anything in between and I get a fairly violent jump at each shift point. At times, in stop-and-go traffice, I have thought the truck would jump into the car ahead of me. This behavior seems to be unrelated to which transmission mode I'm in. D, S, and Tip all do it. I love the motor in this thing, but I'm starting to hate the tranny. What should I tell the dealer to look for on the truck that might be causing this? The truck is going in next week to replace a fog light with condensation, so I'm hoping to get them to look at it then.
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Has noticed a rattle when going over bumps. The rattle seems to come from the rear passenger side at moderate speeds.
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I bought a 2010 GLS 4cyl and within the first week started having shifting issues. Initially it was only when it was colder than 30 degrees outside and would only shift harshly between 1st and 2nd. Once I had driven a few miles and warmed the car up, everything was OK. It's still an intermittent issue, but now it will do it when outside morning temps are in the 50's and 60's.
I've read the TSB for 6cyl 09's and saw a post in the Santa Fe forum that sounded identical, so at least I'm not the first to experience this.
I took it back to the dealership knowing it probably would not shift badly when they test drove it because we had run out of cold mornings. I picked the car up after they reset adaptive learning and said there were no updates available for the computer. (And also being told I had bad gas in the car. Another story for another time...)
Until it starts doing it at fairly regular intervals, there isn't any use taking back to the dealership as it's very inconvenient for me to get there.
I checked the link that had TSB's and didn't see anything for the 2010's. Also, is there any place where I could check and see when software updates come out and what issues are addressed?
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I have the 2000 passat 1.8L 4 cylinder with the tiptronic shifting. The car has been shifting less smoothly both upshifting and down. I have noticed that if you are going fast and slow suddenly, say for a light and the downshifting does not go smoothly the vehicle can lurch/jump even if the brakes are firmly applied.
What may be causing this issue. I recently sold my MKIV which was a great car and we are now starting to have small problems with this passat with 104,000 miles on it. It does not intuitively feel that the tranny is worked over yet, but I would like to avoid any expensive repairs/replacement. I have done everything from suspension, door replacement, clutches and timing belts on other vw's. So I am hoping to tackle this myself.
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While driving around with the 8 speed is350, It seems like the transmission is slipping when changing from 3-4-5 under light throttle. The revs shoot up and then it finds the next gear kind of like someone riding the clutch in a manual car.
This used to happen a little during the winter on cold start but its happening more often even in warm weather. Maybe I'm just crazy but I'm sure its not supposed to be acting this way.
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My check engine light came on the other day and the code stated the the "throttle position is open" so after researching and everyone telling me that i need to change the sensor. I did everything after was fine running better but today only after 3 days replacing it i get the same problems. car has no get up and go hardly can push to 20 mph and when in idle i press the break it starts to bog down and almost want to shut off! and can be really loud...
Santa fe 05' 3.5L ....
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I own a Canadian 2013 Santa Fe sport AWD 2.0l turbo. Back in June/ July 2015 I noticed a poping / grinding noise coming from the rear of the vehicle when ever I made sharp turns under moderate acceleration. I brought my car into the dealer as it was still under warranty. They diagnosed the problem to be my viscous coupler apparently it was defective.
The part was ordered and replaced about 3 weeks later. After the warranty work was completed in still noticed a noise coming from the back end. I took my car back to the dealer. They found that the rear tires were "cupped" they recommended to get a 4 wheel alignment to solve the cupping issue.
In my past experiences tire cupping is usually caused by a worn out suspension component such as bad shocks. So to avoid conflict of interest I took my car to Canadian Tire to get the alignment checked and adjusted.
Sure enough the front wheels only were slightly out of alignment and a minor adjustment was made. No adjustments made to the rear. The technician advised me that due to the minor adjustment, the alignment would not cause my rear wheels to cup. The complete suspension was checked and no problems were found.
So...would a bad viscous coupler cause wheel cupping???
My Santa Fe had 48000kms at the time of the original noise was detected.
I do not tow a trailer or haul overloaded loads.
The majority of kilometres made Is done on highway.
The rear tires have now been rotated to the front.
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