Golf/GTI VI :: Shift Cable Missing Some Clips And Rattling In The Undercarriage
Mar 26, 2013
I bought a 2011 golf 6 2.5 litre 5 door. The second day driving it I discovered a noise coming from under the middle vents in the dash. I took it back to the dealer and they said it was a noise coming because the cable shift was missing some clips and it was rattling in the undercarriage. They replaced the entire cable and I'm finding the same problem only not as loud as before (however it is still there). I'm finding it is making noise around 1200 rpm when going up or down a hill (especially when he car has back passengers in the back or any form of weight in the trunk). The moment I accelerate the noise goes away. Noise is also more pronounced when I have the summer rims and tires on (18s oem). At this point the sound is intermediate however it's something i want to get out of the way. What it could be.?
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I recently installed a new stereo in my 2003 Camry. While deciding whether to get a bluetooth option, I messed around with the drivers side pillar cover, which is where I would have run the bluetooth wire/mic, had I decided to go that route. Anyway, I took the pillar off and I guess the clips that held it on broke off? It was never 100% "attached" so to speak, or so it appeared. Even before I took it all the way off the top part was a little loose so I think that clip was broke off already. When the cover came off I noticed that the 2 spots where the clips attached appear damaged as well, but I can't tell that for sure as I don't know what it would look like undamaged. Also, part (or what appears to be part) of one of the plastic white clips came off too. I was planning on attaching pics, but posting rules for me say no attachments...
a. Is the cover broken as far as being able to hold new clips on?
b. If it isn't broken, where do I get new clips?
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Undercarriage rattling when closing the driver door? Sounds metal and rattles for a split second. It caught me off guard the other day and here's a video of it.
2014 IS 350 F Sport Rattle - YouTube ...
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Is this much water supposed to drip from the undercarriage if you've left the car running for maybe 10 minutes without moving it, while the AC is on?
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As described, It presents when the rain is heavy and I splash the undercarriage with big amounts of water, then this very strong siren-like noise comes from rear and underneath the car. Once the car stops or undercarriage is no longer being showered by water from the splashing on the road, it quiets and stops. While present, if I stop the car the noise goes as well.
Some of my searches on google have come to other car forums and they are all seem to be happening on AWD cars, some blame the exhaust is affected by the cooling down effect of the water.
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Have these installed? The rear lines are not wanting to stay in the OEM securing clips? Used search already as I though I read about this issue before but couldn't find anything.
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I have a 1991 Aerostar 2wd 3.0. I recently had freeze plugs replaced and the mechanic had to drop the tranny to get to some. Now the shift cable has come off the gear selector lever. I have googled everywhere and can't locate the procedure for reattaching it. My mechanic was doing the work on the side and charged me only labor for his assistant. He is at work right now..
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I bought a 2000 Ranger 4x4 3.0L auto today from the neighbor guy sight unseen with a "bad tranny" for $400. I'm very unfamiliar with the Ranger family, but long story short:
When moving the shift lever, the trans doesn't engage. It needs to be engaged from underneath. Do the cables tend to stretch, or break? I can't find any adjustment on it anywhere.
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The kid at body shop called, he has the cab ready to swap onto the 04 gas job except for the shifter cable at the trans. I have never done one either, and do not know how to take it off. I thought it was like the old trans where it was in a plastic grommet, but the cable almost looks like it is grafted to the trans. How to get the cable off the trans shift arm?
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On my 04 150 auto, the clip that holds the shift cable to the trans selector shaft broke, Ford says i need to buy the whole cable and what did you do?
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My truck will be running real good then all at once start missing so bad it shakes gear shifter,spits and pops and then goes back to running fine.
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Replacing the factory pos cable from the alt to the bat in the rear yet? if you have what is the path and was it a pain to do? I have not had the chance to get the car on a lift yet to check and don't know even if it needs to be on a lift to do.
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Removing the negative battery cable piece that connects the cable to the terminal. Where I can get the screw that tightens the connector around the terminal.
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Reverse band broke in my C4, I took it apart enough to get the rear band out and then reassembled. Everything to my knowledge was seated correctly and the front pump seated flush with the case when I reinstalled (which is supposedly a sign that it is all seated correctly). I adjusted the bands to spec and replaced the vacuum modulator and torque converter. These were the only things replaced besides the reverse/low band. Vac modulator was replaced to original (yellow band) as I was running an adjustable before. TC was replaced just because I did not the last time I had the trans rebuilt in 2003....decided to go ahead and R&R.
I got everything assembled, filled up with fluid and no leaks. I start it up and once i finished topping it off, the truck moves forward in every gear... including park! It also seems that I'm missing a shift detent. I have P, R, N, D, 2 but no 1. I disconnected the shift linkage and tried manually shifting from the trans and have the same issue.
I did not open up the valve body, just unbolted and replaced. When you start it up, it doesn't jump forward (while in park) but when you rev it up it sounds like the motor is under load. I've consulted my Haynes C4 book and an extensive google search and no way...
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Ok so I was putting a drill bit into the home slot under the shifter boot. I didn't realize it was so deep and the piece dropped all the way down the hole. Is this bad? If so, what can I do to get in there and get it?
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My R is an earlier model with the Aux-in in the glovebox. I cannot think of a more inconvenient place to put an aux in cable which is why they change it I am sure. I would like to reroute the existing one or at least add an extender cable from the glove box to one of the unused buttons near the ash tray.
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After driving in heavy snow I noticed a cable hanging loose in a loop under the car in the mid section. What could this be ?
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My R has the aux input in the glove box. Connecting to my iPod works, but the cable I have is too fat/thick to let me close the door. Any nice, thin/flat audio connector that would work so I can close the glove box and leave the iPod out where I can control it? If I can find one I'd get a portable nav and connect it via its headphone jack for Bluetooth phone use.
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The MDI cable that came with my car is way too short.. What is the part number or where I can get a longer version of this cable?
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I have iPhone, how to connect to the stereo with AUX. Plus, I don't know where and what kind of AUX cable I should buy?
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"my Honda accord 98, is stick shift and recently it has been rattleting a bit when I switch to speed one. if I don't push the clutch it shakes and wants to almost turn off."
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