Golf/GTI VI :: Key Not Recognized - Starts But Shuts Off After A Second
Jan 24, 2011
-6 degrees this morning. Drive to class fine, come out afterwards to my remote being dead. I popped off the cover to the door handle and unlock the car....alarm goes off. Try to start the car and MFD says key not recognized...it starts but shuts off after a second. How to separate the key without tools? I can't seem to pull it apart.by hand like the old Mk4s.
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When I parked this car 2 months ago it ran fine. Went to start it up and it starts and shuts down. I do not think its the security issue. Both keys do the same thing.
Battery is new recently. There are no MIL lights working on the dash except the battery light. The actual dash lights will not come on. Doors will unlock but not lock. My VAG tester will not communicate with the ECU.
I have checked all of the fuses multiple times. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when the key is turned on. It appears that there is an electrical issue. I took the connections off of the ecu, waited a bit, check for cleanliness and reinstalled also.
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When I go to turn my car on, I have to give it 3 or 4 tries. The try before it actually turns on goes like this: turn key, engine sounds like it wants to turn, almost starts for a split second, and then shuts off. After this I can usually turn it on.
Usually the rpm's would be around 1.3k on a cold start, but when I finally get it to start it automatically dips below 1k. Then when I go to drive it, it feels like it wants to shut off on that first throttle push. It started with just an issue in cold weather, but has gotten progressively worse. Battery is only a few months old.
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I've had the car for almost 5k miles, no issues. Only performance part on the car is a USP 3" catless down pipe with an O2 spacer. Car performed fine with it. Today I got an APR stage 1 93 octane tune. A few hours into the tune on my way home from work, I went to change lanes and the car hit some type of a wall with the RPMs. At around 3200 RPMs, the car felt like it went into limp mode. Did not let me pass 3200 RPMs. I got off the highway and had to keep the RPMs up because the car died at lights. Pulled into my driveway, plugged in my VCDS and there are absolutely no codes coming up. Nothing. But starting the car the car cranks and I have to give it gas for it I barely start.
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Just finished putting a hydraulic cooling fan on my wife's 01 LS V8 when I try to start it , it starts then shuts off after a few seconds. Do I need to reset the computer? If I do, how do I do it.
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My car starts up and it runs for about 5-10 min and then shuts off. then it will not start again while it is hot, if i leave it sit overnight then it will start again but the same problem will occur. the engine also has a misfire from the moment i start it up, how to diagnose this problem. And after you diagnose it can you tell me ways i can check the problems. for example if you say its the fuel pump tell me how to check to see if my pump is working.
Country: United States
Make: Toyota
Model: Celica GTS
Year: 2000
Engine: 2zzge
Already Tried: Here's what I've done to my car recently: I have new engine coils, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, new thermostat. I got my fuel injectors cleaned, new mass airflow sensor, new water pump.
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Recently had BCM issues, a lot of corrosion in it, so I bought a new one connected it, let the key stay in the ON position for 15 minutes for it to relearn. It had been running beautifully until today. I go to start the car and it starts up then shuts off right away. Well at this time I'm in a parking lot with no where to go so I sit there and try the relearn thing again, didnt work. I happened to still have some electrical cleaner in the car so I sprayed out the key hole and key, removing all the junk I could. Nothing.
I unplug battery and reconnect BCM. Boom starts up. Drive it home and go back out a couple hours later to start it again. Does the same damn thing, starts up and dies. Security system light is on so I do the relearn again, nothing. Unplug the battery only this time and it starts fine, but dies on second try. Do I get a new ignition switch? Every time I unhook battery it starts up first try but nothing after that. Security system is over riding everything. I don't want to sink too much money in to this car seeing as it has 222k miles, time for a new one, just not quite ready yet.
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So my 2006 toyota tacoma prerunner v6 was working fine i could drive it a bit but after i changed the drive belt it starts and shuts off after 3-4 seconds. if you accelerate immediately after you turn it on then it wont stop till you stop accelerating...
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I have a '08 uplander. transmission & alternator installed within the last 6wks. battery purchased xmas 2010. car starts goes a few blocks then shuts down. Looking to alleviating this problem?
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How do you warm up? I turn it on and it might start the engine for a few seconds then shut off... How do I know it's ready and warm?
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I'm having this issue with my 2002 camry, but it won't start, so i can take it to a mechanic, and a house call is too expensive.
The car starts at almost 3000 rpm for a few seconds then white smoke starts coming out of the front and back... the front seems to be from the front catalytic converter . Then the car starts stalling and finally shuts off
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Whenever it is really cold, o degrees or colder and i use my remote starter, my 2011 Prius starts for about 1-2 seconds and then shuts down. If go into the car and manually start it stays running with no problems. yesterday i tried remote starting it after about 5 hours sitting in -15 degree temperatures and it worked fine but that was after i already manually started it in the morning cause the remote starter didn't work. Why this is happening? it goes against the whole purpose of having a remote starter.
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Over the past couple months my car (187k miles on it) shuts off while I'm driving it, about once a week, sometimes less. It only seems to happen while driving 30 mph or less and starts back up after 5-10 min. I'm trying to sell it now and don't know how to explain what is going on with the car w/o putting someone off completely. I'm sure it's fixable, I just don't want to deal w/it anymore and need a larger vehicle.
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A couple of months ago my daughter's Sebring engine began shutting off immediately after starting. We brought the car to my usually reliable mechanic. They couldn't find anything wrong. The problem became more frequent (every 2 to 3 starts) and we brought it back to my mechanic who determined it was the car's computer system. $1700 later the car is ready to be picked up, my daughter gets it after the shop is closed, and it wouldn't start! She left it there, got a ride, and, one week later the Sebring is still at the mechanic's. They told us it starts every time for them and they don't see any problem. After researching on the Internet I thought it might have something to do with the immobilizer but they told me that tested fine. I'm at a loss over what to do.
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Car starts runs rough for a few seconds then shuts off (spark plugs and 2 coils were replaced a few months ago). Coolant reservoir level was way low so I filled to the full line, kept the cap off to cycle. During the time the car starts, the coolant from the reservoir violently "boils" over (out of the reservoir). Huge amount of white smoke from the rear exhaust and a burning smell.
Used Techstream and got the following codes:
Engine and ECT: P0117, P0302, P3190, P3191
Hybrid Control: P0A0F
Intermittently get misfile codes but this time around they did not return.
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So My 16 ES starts remotely but shuts off every time I open the doors or unlock the doors with the key fob?
So I have to re-start it every time I get in? Whats the point? I can maybe see the heater for winter or ac for summer but my car is garaged.
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I Have a 93 bronco with a5.8 the truck will start up and run fine for a while and then the engine gets really ruff starts back firing and shuts off it only starts with starting fluid or after it sits for about 30 mins.
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This is what its doing... Im starting to feel lost about whats wrong. I start it up and everything is fine. With in about 10 minutes it starts to bubble and spit out a little water then shuts its self off. And the gauge on the dash never reads above 190. And the fans don't come on unless i turn the ac on. And the ac still blows cold. The lower hose stays cold. I just replaced the thermostat and the water pump. But it changed nothing. Im thinking maybe its clogged somewhere. Maybe in the heater core or the radiator.
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I have an 03 f250 that i think is getting air in the fuel line when it sits. It turns over starts and immediately shuts off. Then i have to crank it for a minute or so before it will start. After that it is good all day. Next day it might sputter on start but stays on. More than a day it shuts off immediately and needs cranking for a minute...
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I have a '92 Ranger with a 2.3 liter engine. She starts and runs a couple of seconds and shuts down. I'm thinking maybe a fuel pump is not putting out thepressure needed. Gotta go to work tomorrow and gotta get the truck running today.
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I recently removed my timing cover due to a coolant leak and found the cover was cracked. I had it welded and reinstalled but i did not remove the crank sensor from the cover while it was being welded. Now the engine starts but shuts right back down. Do the welding may have damaged the sensor and giving me this condition? 1997 4.2 ....
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