Golf/GTI VII :: Rough Idles And Stalls Out / Bank 1 And 4 Misfiring
Apr 17, 2015
My gti with 5k miles will be in the dealership 3weeks on Monday! No one has been able to diagnose the problem! I called VW corporate and they told me that the dealer was working with their tech support and engineers.
The problem is has really rough idle were it stalls out. Bank 1 and Bank 4 are misfiring. This is the part were they are stuck. Once they remove the oil cap the car runs perfect! It stops all misfires and idles perfect. They've ran smoke test, compression test, vacuum test. Replaced pcv, high flow fuel pump, intake manifold.
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2002 f150 4.6l v8... Truck is misfiring and the exhaust is smelling very rich, I have new coils and plugs, it also idles rough and stalls if i let it idle for more than a couple minutes. Could it be something with fuel delivery system?
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When I turn-on AC or defroster, motor idles rough then stalls. My mechanic says it is not related to CHECK ENGINE light or exhaust O2 sensor? I have an 02 Ford Explorer.
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I have an 01 olds alero, I been having problems with the engine stalling out. i was told it may need a new fuel filter so I replaced filter and now it idles rough till it stalls. What to do next? I replaced the plugs 2 years ago also.
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1995 Mazda Protege1.5 LAuto153K miles.
My car was running fine, then one day it started sputtering while driving, mostly when I accelerated. It stalled and I could not get it started. This happened on a day when it was raining hard, but not sure that had anything to do with it. A few days later when I went to pick the car up it started right up, it had stopped raining and been dry for 2 days prior. But about a mile into the drive back home it stalled and I could not get it started.
Here is what I have tested so far.
- Put in new fuel filter.
- Tested the fuel pressure and pressure regulator
- Tested the injectors with a noid light.
- Tested that the spark plugs were producing a spark.
After I pulled the plugs and cleaned and dried them (they were wet with gas) the car started, but I think not because of anything really related to the plugs. What I've noticed is that when cranking the engine if I give it gas it will not start but if I keep off the throttle it will reluctantly start. But once it starts the idle is smooth and as it should be. Then if I give it any gas it immediately stalls. It seems to me given these symptoms that it is getting enough air to idle but not enough air to match the increased gas.
The only CEL code that I'm getting (which I had before this issue occurred) is the "closed throttle position switch" (I forget the number). If it was an MAF, or IAC, or EGR issue would I not get a code? What this could be and how to test it. Again my guess is its an air intake issue but not sure where.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 5.4l v8...
Codes
P0012 int cam position timing over ret bank 1
P0022 int cam position timing over ret bank 2
P0300 random Missfire detected
P0316 engine misfire detected on start up
P0340 cam position sensor curcuit fault
P0345 cmp sensor a circuit problem bank 2
Starts rough, idles rough and stalls occur often when start, after it runs for 5 minutes and sometimes dint starts at all. I replaced spark plugs, coils, cam shaft sensors and had oil changes done and. No effect.
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I have a 94 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, (3.1L V6 GM3100 engine). When I start the engine it idles very rough and usually stalls if I put it in gear. Eventually once it warms up I can drive it, but when I do drive it's extremely sluggish on accelerations and acts like its about to die. At constant speeds it runs mostly ok. We figured it was a vacuum leak, but we've tried every test we can think of to find it and talked to a couple mechanics and tried their tests and it passed all of them. Supposing it isn't a vacuum leak, then what it might be?
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2003 7.3 excursion.. The truck starts every time revs up and idles about 3 seconds then the rpms drop and it tries to stall out catches itself then revs backup and idles rough similar to if you have got air in the fuel lines from changing the fuel filter.. About 1 in five times the truck will stall out and it starts and immediately and idles rough but the rpms and everything runs at speed and rpms don't drop again! This is a reman engine/transmission recently installed.. The mechanic who installed it was unable to figure the problem out.
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I have a huge problem. My 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed manual transmission, has problems with idoling while it's cold, has no power going uphill and stalls when I slow down to stop. This is all after putting a new motor in. The old one was running ok with 310,000 but lagging bad. I figured with the driving I do, a new motor wouldn't be a bad thing. Boy, was I wrong. It has been a nightmare. But once the truck is up to operating temperature, it runs so smooth you wouldn't think there was a problem. But let it cool off, restart, and boom! There it is. We have changed so many parts and sensors with absolutely no change to the original problem. It's very frustrating. I just can't let this problem win. I will figure it out.
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I have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
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I have an '01 gti glx that I just swapped a motor into. I got the motor out of an '01 jetta glx, exact match AFP engine code.
I get cylinder 2 misfires mostly (high number) but I also get 5 and 6 intermittently as well as a P0300 code.
Sometimes I also need to hold the gas down just to get it to start even after the crank sensor.
The engine idles sometimes at 600 rpm but drops and nearly stalls after revving at all.
What I've tried so far:
working cam sensor from my old vr
brand new crank sensor
brand ned wires/plugs
new fuel filter
swapped injectors of misfiring cylinders from old motor
lined up the timing 3 times now and its still perfect
I know the coil pack works because it was on my old motor, which ran fine, just leaked oil.
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I have a mkv r32 turbo. It had C2 910cc software, car ran great. I had to change to UM 870cc software and injectors in order to get UM dsg stage 3 tune. I had it out for test ride, ran nicely for 2 miles. Then i started to increase throttle, a loud back fire, so i pulled over. It stalled, i restarted it, ran for about 5 secs at 14.5 afr, then sputtered to 10s afr, the stalled out completely.
Had it towed home, all 6 plugs were black. VCSD mobile log states multiple misfire and misfire #6. I put new plugs and switched coil packs, same issue.
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I've got a 2004 Prius with about 140,000 miles. Overall, the car has worked great, and I've kept up with regular service.
Several months ago, I started having bad misfiring of the engine. When I got it into the shop, it turned out to be two faulty ignition coils. The shop advised me to replace them all, which I did. Soon afterwards, however, the CEL came on, indicating a P0420 - "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1".
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Firstly, my car is a 2001 with a 1.8T, 5 speed manual. It has APR's 93 with the mode-switching software, a FMIC, a short ram air intake, the SAI delete and the original DV (used to be a Forge 007). I bought the car in 2008 and it didn't have this problem until the following winter, sold it in 2012 and recently bought it back from the guy I sold it to.
My car will start and idle great, and accelerate through first gear without problem. In second and third gear, when it hits around 3000 RPM, it just suddenly starts to sputter and run like crap and not get any kind of boost. Fourth and fifth gear, I can run it until it peaks and it'll never miss a beat. It only does this when it gets cold outside (sub-30 degrees) and is perfectly fine the other nine months out of the year. I usually don't drive it in the winter if it's avoidable, but I have to travel a lot this year and would like to drive it instead of my truck.
In the past few years/15K miles, I've replaced:
- All four coilpacks
- All new spark plugs
- New coilpack harnesses
- Catalytic Converter
- Throttle body (twice)
- Diverter valve (back to stock, other owner did it)
- SAI delete (other owner did it)
- Fuel Filter
- O2 sensor
- ECU (the factory one got shorted and had to be replaced back in '08)
I've also gone through and checked every vacuum line and can't find any leaks (including spray testing). My CEL is on due to the SAI delete. I've tried it in both the stock and APR mode and it doesn't make a difference.
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i have a 2005 f150 4x4 5.4 3 valve. it ides good but when it is in on it splutters, and also feels like dead cylinders in passenger gear. i checked the codes the other day and i had a cylinder 5 misfire. so i cleared it and today checked again and had running lean bank one and cylinder 8 misfire, then checked one more time and had cylinder 7 misfire. I am sure it is a bad coil but how do I know which one?
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I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when i got it, i replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body.
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I have a 99 ford ranger xlt 4.0 ohv basically it sputters so bad while driving it sounds like a dump truck but it all started when I changed my o2 sensors but in doing so I broke my heater control valve and when I was going down the road it started sputtering well it started sputtering so I checked the o2 sensors there good and I changed the heater control valve. But nothing so I changed my coil pack spark plugs and wires but still nothing. But on my reader it says cylinders 2,3, and 4 are misfiring and bank 1 and 2 are running lean plus it has a bad aroma of gas in the engine compartment but when it idles its somewhat smooth but when I'm driving it its horrible the sputtering is so bad it takes awhile to get up to speed plus I'm only getting 100 miles to a whole tank that's like 8 or 9 mpg I need to fix this soon. This is my only transportation...
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2001 VR6 GTI....
Already done:
Replaced the coil pack and plugs
Measured resistance of plug wires (all at about 6K Ohm)
Replaced front O2 sensor
Replaced purge solenoid valve
Replaced coolant temp sensor
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Replaced MAF sensor
Cleaned the throttle body
Cleaned the throttle position sensor
Ran a tank of seafoam treatment (injectors were new 6 mos ago.)
Checked running voltage of battery
It was smoking and stinking bad with a rich mixture. It improved with the MAF change but still runs like a farm tractor. Now it idles on 3 or 4 cylinders, runs rough through 3000 RPM then runs cleaner at above 3000 RPM, but only at light throttle. CEL is either on or flashing when driving.
Don't know what to do next - nice car not fun to drive like this. What this could be and how to test it?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Avalon Limited with 106k miles. Check engine light detected Cylinder misfire in cylinders 3 and 4 at 99K even though I didn't feel the car driving any differently. At the time I was planning to drive the vehicle across the country and so maybe I freaked out, but a friend and I replaced all the spark plugs and coils at the same time (I knew the back 3 were a real pain).
Then at around 104K miles (after letting car sit for 8 weeks) I noticed my car was jumping a bit while idling at lights and the RPMs would dip about 50-100. It felt like I was running out of gas even though the tank was full. For the last 2k miles the idle problem has gotten slightly worse and I think I can even detect a misfire while driving in hilly terrain (although this could just be the oft complained about jerking transmission issues that plague the Avalon). There is NO check engine light illuminated and no codes.
what may be causing my car's idle to dip? It can't be the new plugs and coils already can it? How can I tell if there is a leak somewhere or if the fuel injectors are dirty?
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So I'm nearing my wits end. I have an '11 GTI DSG, CCTA, second owner. The problem has been happening as soon as I bought it, when it was only 6 months old.
When the engine is not fully warm, but warm-ish, the engine doesn't reliably start on the first try. I have KESSY, so I push the start button and hold it. When I release it (not too soon, mind you) the engine will idle very rough. The tach will bounce between 200 and 700 rpm. Sometimes the engine will die completely. Other times, the idle will stabilize at the right engine speed after a few seconds of roughness.
It seems like this happens most often when the car has been parked for 1 to 3 hours. However, I have had it happen very rarely when cold as well as minutes after parking. But definitely it seems to happen mostly when it has been allowed to cool slightly for 1-3 hours.
I've got youtube videos. I'll post links. I've contacted VWOA. I have a case. They tested the fuel system and believe everything is okay. They told me they suspected bad gas. I religiously used Shell 93. So they, under warranty, flushed the fuel tank. Okay, so I switched to Chevron 93. Well, the problem still happens!!! As far as I know, no parts have been replaced yet.
My car is at the dealership now, they called me today and want to give up. This would be the 5th time I've taken it in for this problem.
One thing I forgot to mention. When the engine has just started and is idling roughly, if I stab the gas pedal a little, it will bring up the revs to 2-3000rpm and 90% of the time the engine will then settle into a smooth idle immediately after the revs drop. It's almost as if the mixture is so rich that it has got the plugs wet (if this were carbureted, that'd be the first thing I would suspect)
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I have a 01 vw bora 1.8t and recently I let it sit for one day and now it has trouble starting when it's cold and when it does start it has a very rough idle and often stalls out of you try and press the gas. Once it has warmed up she runs fine. My check engine light is on but I have no way to take her down to a shop to get the codes read. What is wrong with my car? One of my friends told me it could be a cool pack or a sensor.
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