Avalon 2005-12 :: Idles To Dip / Cylinders 3 And 4 Misfiring


Sep 26, 2014

I have a 2005 Toyota Avalon Limited with 106k miles. Check engine light detected Cylinder misfire in cylinders 3 and 4 at 99K even though I didn't feel the car driving any differently. At the time I was planning to drive the vehicle across the country and so maybe I freaked out, but a friend and I replaced all the spark plugs and coils at the same time (I knew the back 3 were a real pain).

Then at around 104K miles (after letting car sit for 8 weeks) I noticed my car was jumping a bit while idling at lights and the RPMs would dip about 50-100. It felt like I was running out of gas even though the tank was full. For the last 2k miles the idle problem has gotten slightly worse and I think I can even detect a misfire while driving in hilly terrain (although this could just be the oft complained about jerking transmission issues that plague the Avalon). There is NO check engine light illuminated and no codes.

what may be causing my car's idle to dip? It can't be the new plugs and coils already can it? How can I tell if there is a leak somewhere or if the fuel injectors are dirty?

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Saab - 9-2x :: 2005 - Misfiring On Cylinders 2 And 4

My 9-2 is misfiring on cylinders 2 and 4. At first we suspected a timing issue but that doesn't appear to be the case. My mechanic is looking at it but can't seem to locate the problem... so far:

- replaced old spark plugs
- checked the coils (moved them to see if the misfiring followed the coils--it did not)
- checked the timing belt (all good)
- compression is good
- fuel coming in is rich

He's dropping the exhaust today to check things from that end... A faulty mass airflow sensor wouldn't effect specific cylinders would it? and we'd see a degradation in the fuel richness right?

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How it all got started: [URL] .... Replaced Check Valve (06A 133 528 D/A) today, car is still idling rough, flashing CEL but it's solid/no CEL when the car is moving.

What I have done so far:
1. Replaced Turbo Inlet Pipe (Cracked at one corner)
2. Replaced D.V. (Original was fine)
4. Did Smoke Test, No Vacuum Leak
3. Replace Check Valve (06A 133 528 D/A) Above The Intake Manifold
4. Cleaned Throttle Body and All Pipes under Intake Manifold

Codes keep reappearing:
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
And All Cylinders Misfire

Car idles fine when I squeeze this hose marked in green : [URL] ....

Something I noticed before and I think it's still doing it, there is weird noise every time I shift to reverse or drive, It sounds like when you just open drivers door.

Here's the link to the sound clip [URL] .....

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According to the OBDII, I have a misfire on #3 & #4 cylinders. Im getting codes PO300, PO303, PO304 and PO171.

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So last night i was driving and i made a turn onto the highway and speed up to pass this slow ass car :thumb down: and as i did i lost acceleration and my car started to rumble like when you use a high gear when u make a turn while moving that slow acceleration. And as that happened my engine light turned on and my EPC so i drove it well barely made it home. i had a friend with his VAGCOM come to see whats wrong it said cylinder 1&3 are miss firing so he took his ignition coils out of his car swapped them in my car and we drove it around and it drove fine and no fault codes. so now my issue since i have GIAC, CAI and APR full exhaust if my warranty will cover to have them put new ignition coils since i did get an extended warranty. I'm just afraid they won't.

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Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Cylinders 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 Misfiring?

2000 Excursion V10.

Recently cylinders 1,2,3,4 wend dead on my wife's Excursion. I searched here for a pin out diagram so I can check all the wires from the coils to the PCM. I changed the coils on those 4 cylinders with no change and then swapped them with the coils on the left side of the engine. the problem stays on those 4 cylinders. Any link to pin out the wire harness for the coils to the PCM

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So I have a 2004 jetta GLI (1.8T) with forge splitter valve and short ram intake. I went and got my codes pulled and all 4 cylinders misfiring and random misfires. I replaced both coil packs and spark plugs. check engine light popped up again after about 20 miles and same thing. I just bought the car so I'm not sure how long it has been running with these misfires. I just got the timing belt replaced. I know it could be off a tooth. (Wouldn't a code pop up though for it?) How could I check that. And I also took my MAF sensor off as well and no change. Heard it could be clogged cat, any way to check? I've also cleaned the throttle body. It runs fine when I'm driving, just a rough idle.

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My friend has 2000 12v vr6 auto and recently he experienced his car bogging under acceleration. He had the plugs and wires recently done to solve the problem and the problem went away for a day and has since returned. I scanned it and here are the codes that its threw. After doing some research i'm thinking its the coil pack, since it was pretty foggy/damp today (when the problem started again).

17626.p1218 - fuel injector for cylinder 6 (N84): short to b+

16690.p0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected

16684.p0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

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So as I was heading out the other day, the car had low acceleration and engine shaking. The check engine light started flashing.

Checked the codes at the parts store: P0300, P0301, P0303.

I just dropped it off at the auto repair shop.

Could it be a I'm just wondering if I shouldn't have taken it to the dealer as the printout says it could be a CPU issue?

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Already done:

Replaced the coil pack and plugs

Measured resistance of plug wires (all at about 6K Ohm)

Replaced front O2 sensor

Replaced purge solenoid valve

Replaced coolant temp sensor

Replaced fuel filter

Replaced fuel pressure regulator

Replaced MAF sensor

Cleaned the throttle body

Cleaned the throttle position sensor

Ran a tank of seafoam treatment (injectors were new 6 mos ago.)

Checked running voltage of battery

It was smoking and stinking bad with a rich mixture. It improved with the MAF change but still runs like a farm tractor. Now it idles on 3 or 4 cylinders, runs rough through 3000 RPM then runs cleaner at above 3000 RPM, but only at light throttle. CEL is either on or flashing when driving.

Don't know what to do next - nice car not fun to drive like this. What this could be and how to test it?

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I'm fairly certain it's an issue on the electrical side because if it were an issue with the injector or injectors it would be constant regardless of RPM... right? As it is now, it basically does it between 55-65 while in overdrive trying to pull a hill or slightly accelerate. Once it's shifted out and the RPMs go up to 2k+ it runs like a champ... and it kills my fuel economy. The way it's behaving is just like when a coil is bad, but it's saying it's not identifying a specific cylinder (saying it's multiple) and it doesn't always do it (about 60% of the time).

I checked the MAF and it's very clean (looks almost new), checked the vacuum lines (those I found without a manual) and couldn't find any leaks and when I changed the plugs all the plug wells were dry.

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The problem is has really rough idle were it stalls out. Bank 1 and Bank 4 are misfiring. This is the part were they are stuck. Once they remove the oil cap the car runs perfect! It stops all misfires and idles perfect. They've ran smoke test, compression test, vacuum test. Replaced pcv, high flow fuel pump, intake manifold.

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