A couple of months ago I replaced my coils because of misfires. Just yesterday I satarted getting the running in 3 cylinders feeling. So I was woundering why they went out so fast? (Coils were from my brothers 20th gti)
View 5 RepliesMy truck is skipping but if I give it more throttle it will stop but then will start back when I let off the throttle. It seems like it is only running on half the cylinders. This problem is intermittent which makes it very hard to troubleshoot even for the dealership and other places I have taken it. Also, the problem is temperature sensitive. It only does it below 40 deg. F. Truck runs fine any other time of the year. Truck has new plugs, plug wires, distributor, egr valve, O2 sensor. Also, the IAC has been cleaned. The check engine light does not come on.
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 ford ranger xlt 4.0 ohv basically it sputters so bad while driving it sounds like a dump truck but it all started when I changed my o2 sensors but in doing so I broke my heater control valve and when I was going down the road it started sputtering well it started sputtering so I checked the o2 sensors there good and I changed the heater control valve. But nothing so I changed my coil pack spark plugs and wires but still nothing. But on my reader it says cylinders 2,3, and 4 are misfiring and bank 1 and 2 are running lean plus it has a bad aroma of gas in the engine compartment but when it idles its somewhat smooth but when I'm driving it its horrible the sputtering is so bad it takes awhile to get up to speed plus I'm only getting 100 miles to a whole tank that's like 8 or 9 mpg I need to fix this soon. This is my only transportation...
View 11 RepliesOkay vortex here's what's happening in my 20th. About a month or so ago a CMP sensor went out, so I replaced that with a OEM sensor, on my way home my car started to misfire. So I took it easy the rest of the way home. The next day I started my car up and there were no misfires, drove to school, still no misfires but the check engine light was still on from the night before, after school on my way to get the codes ran it started to misfire again but then it stopped a few min into the drive.
Ever since then it has misfired but not all the time but maybe 1- 2 times a day then it would stop misfiring after a few min/seconds. My and my friend did the coil pack test and all the coil packs were good, yesterday (10/14/10) I replaced my plugs with NGK BKR7E plugs gapped at .028, my car is chipped with unitronic stage 2 tunning and it still misfired. I am going to clear all the codes and restet my ECU, but can you till do that with a unitronic ecu?
I have had my 337 for about 5 months now and occasionally when i floor it it misfires or something because the CEL comes on and flashes. This happens quite often and i was wondering if it is normal or what it could be. Brand new spark plugs. coilpacks not so long ago.
View 4 RepliesThis has been happening intermittently for a while now. The car has about 97k on it and I within the last 1000 miles have replace the timing belt, water pump, coolant temp sensor, tensioners, thermostat, and MAF (OEM BOSCH from ECS).
The car was overheating; all the cooling/timing related stuff was changed, no issues for a few weeks. Then it started misfiring and stalling like a madman in cyls 2 and 3. Ran ran if for the code pulled the MAF and sure enough it looks like the PO never cleaned it as there were probably 2mm of buildup on it; as preventative maintenance I went ahead and just replaced it completely.
Now, less than a week after I replaced the MAF the car will make random little popping noises under hard acceleration, and randomly will just completely stall; without showing the battery or check engine lights, similar to how it was stalling right before the MAF went bad. I live three miles from my office and it has happened going to and from every day for the past two weeks.
As far as I know the car is mostly stock (I purchased in in March). However it does have a knockoff BPV of some sort that I think could be causing the issue as the popping noise sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the car. What this might be (if it's not the BPV).
So, for about two weeks now, my engine has been running hot. I have a 2003 Volkswagen Jetta VR6, the cat converter and the MAF Sensor have both been replaced w/in the past year. Oh yeah, also replaced my thermostat within the past 2 years. Trying to trouble shoot the problem. I had the radiator flushed the other day. No engine light is currently on. It doesn't happen to me in the morning (due to the cold ass weather) but towards the end of my stretch home from work (all interstate) the temp gauge goes past the 190 degree mark. Doesn't reach the red, however its still too hot for comfort.
View 9 RepliesIs there anyway to turn off the daytime running lights?
View 4 Replies03 20th anni.... MFing light bulbs are driving me crazy.
View 3 RepliesI was parking today and when i looked up my CEL was on. So I got the code pulled and it turns out I'm running lean with a base one. I think it was? the mechanic told me it was my o2 sensor but I'm not sure which one it may be whether it be before or after the cat?
View 5 RepliesThe car will start up fine, run for 10 - 20 min and stall. I will try and restart it but i takes atleast 7 or 8 sec of the car just turning over before it slowly fires up. Which results in a high idle 1200-1400 rpm and the car stalling another 5 min later.
Ive fixed my o2 sensor the wire was cut, replaced the fuel filter, and got a eurojet lower pcv hose for the vacuum leak i found.
I've just recently starting getting a really annoying vibration coming from under the hood, only occurs while engine is running >~3000rpm's. Sounds like a metal plate shaking somewhere, any clues on where to check??
View 7 RepliesMy sister has a 2004 gli 1.8t with 65k. The temperature gauge says its overheating, the cel is on, but the car appears to run fine, the fluid levels are appear to be fine, and you cant see any leaks. Her fiance thinks its water pump issues...
View 4 RepliesAbout three nights ago I had a complete power loss on the highway and the car began to bog down alot under throttle (and surge at points as well although with no boost). It also idled very rough/erratically. When I unplugged the MAF it cleared up right away; Idle was smooth and it ran without hiccup but in safe/limp mode so very tame (again, without boost really, gauge shows it stays in Vacuum and never passes "0" or goes into boost).
I scanned it this evening and got 2 misfire codes and a MAF code, along with a code related to traction control which I noticed had activated as a result of this and could not be turned on (by activated, I mean the light came on, disengaging T/C). These things make me think it is MAF related, especially because I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I do not think that is what it could be in relation to the misfire codes (which I think may be old and needed to be cleared).
Fast forward to last night: I can pretty confidently say my MAF is not the problem and I think I saved an unnecessary expenditure. I was able to meet a friend with a 337 as well and his MAF did not change my car at all and my MAF ran fine in his car so I think my problems are something else. Although with the MAF plugged in my car runs very poor and unplugged it clears up and just runs "limp" (no boost and slow but stable) from what I tested this evening the MAF unit seems to not be the issue.
I think there must be a vacuum leak of some sort between the MAF and the engine which allows more air in than the MAF signals when plugged in which causes the issue. Also, I know a common thing to think is "coilpacks" but I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I would imagine that would eliminate those from being the failure they tend to normally be. Agreed ??
My 9-2 is misfiring on cylinders 2 and 4. At first we suspected a timing issue but that doesn't appear to be the case. My mechanic is looking at it but can't seem to locate the problem... so far:
- replaced old spark plugs
- checked the coils (moved them to see if the misfiring followed the coils--it did not)
- checked the timing belt (all good)
- compression is good
- fuel coming in is rich
He's dropping the exhaust today to check things from that end... A faulty mass airflow sensor wouldn't effect specific cylinders would it? and we'd see a degradation in the fuel richness right?
According to the OBDII, I have a misfire on #3 & #4 cylinders. Im getting codes PO300, PO303, PO304 and PO171.
View 2 RepliesSo last night i was driving and i made a turn onto the highway and speed up to pass this slow ass car :thumb down: and as i did i lost acceleration and my car started to rumble like when you use a high gear when u make a turn while moving that slow acceleration. And as that happened my engine light turned on and my EPC so i drove it well barely made it home. i had a friend with his VAGCOM come to see whats wrong it said cylinder 1&3 are miss firing so he took his ignition coils out of his car swapped them in my car and we drove it around and it drove fine and no fault codes. so now my issue since i have GIAC, CAI and APR full exhaust if my warranty will cover to have them put new ignition coils since i did get an extended warranty. I'm just afraid they won't.
View 7 RepliesIs it possible that disconnecting battery causes a misaligned throttle body, which in turn causes the EPC light to come on? And does a misaligned throttle body also cause misfiring cylinders (1 & 2 in this case)?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota Avalon Limited with 106k miles. Check engine light detected Cylinder misfire in cylinders 3 and 4 at 99K even though I didn't feel the car driving any differently. At the time I was planning to drive the vehicle across the country and so maybe I freaked out, but a friend and I replaced all the spark plugs and coils at the same time (I knew the back 3 were a real pain).
Then at around 104K miles (after letting car sit for 8 weeks) I noticed my car was jumping a bit while idling at lights and the RPMs would dip about 50-100. It felt like I was running out of gas even though the tank was full. For the last 2k miles the idle problem has gotten slightly worse and I think I can even detect a misfire while driving in hilly terrain (although this could just be the oft complained about jerking transmission issues that plague the Avalon). There is NO check engine light illuminated and no codes.
what may be causing my car's idle to dip? It can't be the new plugs and coils already can it? How can I tell if there is a leak somewhere or if the fuel injectors are dirty?
2000 Excursion V10.
Recently cylinders 1,2,3,4 wend dead on my wife's Excursion. I searched here for a pin out diagram so I can check all the wires from the coils to the PCM. I changed the coils on those 4 cylinders with no change and then swapped them with the coils on the left side of the engine. the problem stays on those 4 cylinders. Any link to pin out the wire harness for the coils to the PCM
So I have a 2004 jetta GLI (1.8T) with forge splitter valve and short ram intake. I went and got my codes pulled and all 4 cylinders misfiring and random misfires. I replaced both coil packs and spark plugs. check engine light popped up again after about 20 miles and same thing. I just bought the car so I'm not sure how long it has been running with these misfires. I just got the timing belt replaced. I know it could be off a tooth. (Wouldn't a code pop up though for it?) How could I check that. And I also took my MAF sensor off as well and no change. Heard it could be clogged cat, any way to check? I've also cleaned the throttle body. It runs fine when I'm driving, just a rough idle.
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