GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: 2003 VW GLI Engine Running Hot
Dec 1, 2011
So, for about two weeks now, my engine has been running hot. I have a 2003 Volkswagen Jetta VR6, the cat converter and the MAF Sensor have both been replaced w/in the past year. Oh yeah, also replaced my thermostat within the past 2 years. Trying to trouble shoot the problem. I had the radiator flushed the other day. No engine light is currently on. It doesn't happen to me in the morning (due to the cold ass weather) but towards the end of my stretch home from work (all interstate) the temp gauge goes past the 190 degree mark. Doesn't reach the red, however its still too hot for comfort.
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03 20th anni.... MFing light bulbs are driving me crazy.
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I've just recently starting getting a really annoying vibration coming from under the hood, only occurs while engine is running >~3000rpm's. Sounds like a metal plate shaking somewhere, any clues on where to check??
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When I bought my 2003 20th it was completely stock, except for a pos blow off valve had been installed, and get this, the diverter valve was left on, and just capped off. I installed a no name CAI, and the check engine light came on, i had it turned off and when i start the car, or rev the engine high at all, triggers again.
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A couple of months ago I replaced my coils because of misfires. Just yesterday I satarted getting the running in 3 cylinders feeling. So I was woundering why they went out so fast? (Coils were from my brothers 20th gti)
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Is there anyway to turn off the daytime running lights?
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I was parking today and when i looked up my CEL was on. So I got the code pulled and it turns out I'm running lean with a base one. I think it was? the mechanic told me it was my o2 sensor but I'm not sure which one it may be whether it be before or after the cat?
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The car will start up fine, run for 10 - 20 min and stall. I will try and restart it but i takes atleast 7 or 8 sec of the car just turning over before it slowly fires up. Which results in a high idle 1200-1400 rpm and the car stalling another 5 min later.
Ive fixed my o2 sensor the wire was cut, replaced the fuel filter, and got a eurojet lower pcv hose for the vacuum leak i found.
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My sister has a 2004 gli 1.8t with 65k. The temperature gauge says its overheating, the cel is on, but the car appears to run fine, the fluid levels are appear to be fine, and you cant see any leaks. Her fiance thinks its water pump issues...
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About three nights ago I had a complete power loss on the highway and the car began to bog down alot under throttle (and surge at points as well although with no boost). It also idled very rough/erratically. When I unplugged the MAF it cleared up right away; Idle was smooth and it ran without hiccup but in safe/limp mode so very tame (again, without boost really, gauge shows it stays in Vacuum and never passes "0" or goes into boost).
I scanned it this evening and got 2 misfire codes and a MAF code, along with a code related to traction control which I noticed had activated as a result of this and could not be turned on (by activated, I mean the light came on, disengaging T/C). These things make me think it is MAF related, especially because I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I do not think that is what it could be in relation to the misfire codes (which I think may be old and needed to be cleared).
Fast forward to last night: I can pretty confidently say my MAF is not the problem and I think I saved an unnecessary expenditure. I was able to meet a friend with a 337 as well and his MAF did not change my car at all and my MAF ran fine in his car so I think my problems are something else. Although with the MAF plugged in my car runs very poor and unplugged it clears up and just runs "limp" (no boost and slow but stable) from what I tested this evening the MAF unit seems to not be the issue.
I think there must be a vacuum leak of some sort between the MAF and the engine which allows more air in than the MAF signals when plugged in which causes the issue. Also, I know a common thing to think is "coilpacks" but I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I would imagine that would eliminate those from being the failure they tend to normally be. Agreed ??
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I'm on my way out and someone on the road just told me that my brake lights are both out. My rear running lights do work. Is this a fuse problem? What is the number where this fuse is located?
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But we have an 03 Golf GTI. And the ECM went bad. So we got a new (used) one. But the problem was that it wouldn't communicate with the VAGcom. Replaced the ECM now it communicates. But our problem is the anti-theft code. I am not sure of the secret "code" the dealer is supposed to give you. It wasn't supplied to us. Looking for info on reprogramming this part of the immobilizer?
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So, it's been 8 years with this awesome car. Still enjoying every day. Over the past year or so, I've noticed my engine get gradually louder and louder. By that I mean, the overall engine noise at low RPM. It's a mechanical kind of noise. Clicking, etc. The engine has 101,500 miles on it.
For the past 2 days now, this noise has gotten dramatically louder. I've tried to capture it in the video below. Might have to listen with headphones. The noise is most noticeable at idle and then goes away after about 2000 RPM. You'll see. What this might be? Btw, there is no reduction in the performance of the car.
[URL] ......
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What is the factory AWP 20th AE boost pressure?
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I know it has to do with the thermostat and coolant sensor but I am trying to hold off on doing it till the winter cause my car is at 68k so i will be doing the timing belt. It would be easier to install them all at once. is it bad to keep driving the car with this problem?
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An '03 GTI 20th AE with an airbag light on. Took it to dealer this morning and they told me it was the driver's side seat belt sensor..
1) DIY for opening up the seatbelt clip to take a look?
2) Will having the airbag light on disable all airbags from firing in case of an accident?
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I have probably had problems with my headlights and brake lights for like the longest time. I swear I change out more bulbs more than anybody I know. When one head light goes out I switch it out, only for another to go out.
Recently both head lights go out back to back so I decided to wait to change them out. And im sure my high beams are out also since i used those when i drive at night which isnt to often. I still haven't changed them out, because I dont want to spend more money on bulbs only for them to go out again.
I've probably had this problem since ive had this car. I was wondering what I should do or what i could look into to try and fix the problem. I have a 2003 VW GTI 20th Anni.
Ive had it since birth so I would like to get this problem resolved. Haven't had any major problems except for a few electrical here and there. And ive kept it serviced up to date.
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I chipped my car with unitronics stage 2 3 weeks ago. 300 mile later the check engine came on. 42 DD down 3" to 2.5 cb no DV yet.
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So i have a 2004.5 gli 6spd that had two of the coils go bad and had a serious misfire with engine code and all car didnt want to even move. So i got this fixed made it about a mile down the road and it had a cylinder 3 misfire took it back had third coil replaced and all new plugs put it. Got the car back it ran fine until i hit about 4000 rpm under heavy boost it misfires but no flashing cel like before and the car still runs but cold start warmed up it misfires under boost
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Car was started for the first time after the radiator was flushed and new coolant was put on it. The car was just jumped and charged after was brought from a copart auction. Now my brother said that everything looks smooth, no xxxmas tree in the dashboard, idle is steady, engine sounds good.
Now here comes the thing, the temps of oil and water are at a proper level. When he steps on the gas pedal a few seconds later there is some sort of smoke coming out from the back of the engine (exhaust manifold, turbo, intercooler stock pipes from the SMIC) My question is cause he's not a mechanic and he will arrive tomorrow. crack manifold, shot turbo or some leak in the hoses?
aBtw the car has 105k miles.
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So recently my check engine and abs light came on. I went to go get it checked out and it was the MAF censor. And here recently i noticed the airbag light came on. I replaced the MAF today, and the abs went away but check engine is still on due to the downpipe. And the airbag light is also on. Why it might have came on?
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