Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 - Transmission To Mount Bracket Bolts Destroyed Inside Trans Housing?
Aug 11, 2014
Long story short, over torqued the top two stretch bolts and destroyed the threads. We helicoil'ed both holes and put the bolts back in. That was about 4 months ago.
Today both bolts snapped not while moving. We dolly'd the car home and bought a replacement bracket, however all three bolts along the bottom that go into the transmission housing broke off inside.
I'm a tad stuck at this point. I could drill and tap new holes over the existing, but i question whether that is a good idea. My other thought was to get 3 of the larger stretch bolts that go in the top, completely drill out the three that are broken and tap the big ones in. This thought would also require drilling the bracket to make the larger bolts fit.
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The other day when i wanted to start the car, I found out my battery was death so i decided to ask my buddy to push me and crank it on gear. Car shakes as normal and engine started, but then i heard a weird noise like if something was rubbing. I turned it off and popped the hood. I found my engine leaning forward and toward the passenger side.
So the next morning, I checked the bay again and i found out that it wasn't the motor mount. Motor mount is ok, but then i found a broken bolt that holds the bracket to the block; the one that goes right next to the water pump to be more specific. Also in the back of the block there is a bolt that hold bracket to the block again and the thread whole was enough weak to break when the other bolt failed. So I did some research and i found that there is a solution for the bolt in back of the block.
What I am concerned is for the on the goes right next to the water pump. It seems that it broke the whole thing including the part where the bolt threads go. I just had a shop install I.E connecting rods, new piston rings, and rebuilt the heads. They put a new timing belt kit and all its job required. I think they might have a bit of fault on this since it had to be removed when they did the timing belt kit. Anyways I don't want to think my block will be a junk now because engine is running like a champ, and that would be a bummer.
-Bolt that is broken in two pieces.-
-And where it is attached to the block-
-Part of the engine where this all goes.-
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I just installed my brand new coil overs. I went to drop the car from the jack and as it lowered I noticed my strut mount fully popped out of the strut mount housing. I can't even close my hood. Did I do something wrong?
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I have a 2005 Honda Civic (2-door) and have been told that the transmission bracket (which I assume means the same as a mount) has a crack. So two questions:
1. What it would cost to replace this bracket/mount?
2. What's the worse that can happen if I don't replace it?
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So I replaced the engine and trans engine mounts on my 2004 R32 today. After I got done and drove it there was some serious vibration and gear whine. It also seemed like I wasn't able to transfer all the power to the wheels, it was definitely slower to accelerate. Did something go out of alignment?
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I need to take the tranny (automatic) off the old engine (BEW).
What are type/size are the bolts connecting the tranny to the block?
The 2 bottom ones I got out using (assuming) 10mm (?) triple square.
What size (socket/tool) and type (triple square, torx, allen) are the others?
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So it's been raining here a lot on the East Coast lately, especially in NJ and last night after getting out of work there were some few small floods I had to go through in order for me to get back home. This morning as I walked around my car to check if everything was OK I noticed that my fog's has water inside the housing. How do I go about drying them out or should I take it to the dealer and have them fix it for me.
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VW Golf 2000 2.0 GLS engine auto. 158,000 km
Observation 1: The coolant flange broken 3 times, which appear to be caused by pressure inside.
Observation 2: I drove it today to see the problem. During normal driving upper hill, the temperature turned to be higher than normal. 1 or 2 minutes later after red light, I turned off the engine. And then driving for 2 minutes after the green light, the temperature read appeared to go back to normal (a tiny bit higher than normal). Further driving 5-7 minutes, the temperature reading went to the high end again. So I stopped, opened the engine cover and can hear water boiling sound inside the engine. The coolant in the expansion tank was much higher than normal (above the maximum). The coolant is Prestone (not G12).
I would guess that coolant is not flowing inside. But the problem appears to occur randomly. A water pump issue? (replaced at 90,000km) Or could be the thermostat? Why cannot the pressure be released automatically?
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I am hearing a vibrating sound only between 2000 - 2500 rpm while accelerating from inside/under engine bay. No impact on ride quality and no engine harshness is felt. Only it sounds like some metal sheet is vibrating for a while. After crossing 2500 rpm it simply disappears.
Checked inside the engine compartment by revving the engine while stationery and I don't get that sound. What could it be? Some shield of the exhaust? cat?
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I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
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I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
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So I replaced the engine and trans engine mounts on my 2004 R32 today. After I got done and drove it there was some serious vibration and gear whine. It also seemed like I wasn't able to transfer all the power to the wheels, it was definitely slower to accelerate. Did something go out of alignment?
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I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1/2 ton 4 wheel drive truck. The upper rear shock mount bracket has rusted off.
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Finally took the Wolf in to see about an engine rattle thats been getting worse. The culprit - loose engine mount bolts! Dealer decided to order new bolts, not just tighten the old ones. Also mentioned a recall for the transmission software. Odd that the "recall" wasn't listed on-line for my VIN. It must be the one that smooths the tranny a bit, it is a bit jumpy at low speed.
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Tried to flush it and got as far as draining everything. I can't hook up my T and begin the flushing process because I can't remove the thermostat. I have a buddy who can get the bolt out but I'd have to be able to drive the truck to him. I've tried just about everything to remove it. I did manage to find some replacements for when I do get the last one out though .Is there a way to still flush this thing like maybe just hook up the hose to the t and run the engine with the heat on to open the thermostat?
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i have a 2000 jetta 2.0 i am in desperate need of a new transmission. Ever since I bought the car I rarely had third gear and today on my way from southeastern PA to northwest Ohio seem to pretty much completely lost first unless I really slam it in and fifth likes to disengage every now and then unless I hold the shifter in place both first and fifth were slowly giving me problems until it got really bad after todays 8 hour drive. My transmission code is EBP, is there any other codes I can put in my car from another 2.0 or do I have to get another EBP?
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I come today for a apparently transmission problem. I have an automatic VW Jetta 2000 2.0 that i bought a few months ago, the car is great, has 250K miles.
The problem is in the morning when car is still cold, the transmission isn't shifting gear until 3K RPM (For 1-2 is about 2.5K RPM, and 2-3 is about 3K RPM). After 5 minutes of driving all back to normality and transmission shift gear about 2.2K to 2.3K RPM.
The question is: this is normal?, what could be wrong?.
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So, I recently picked up mt 2000 vr6 has 200k on it runs great well taken care of. I was just driving not getting crazy or any sort of thing. it has ground in 2nd a little from when I got it. I put it in neutral then went to put it in 2nd and it went but nothing there. it will go into 2nd but won't stay and when I hold it in 2nd gear it just revs no noise or anything just sits and rolls. tried doing the reading but all I fold was 1st and 2nd I just have no 2nd.
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Finally got around to replacing my Thermostat because the DIY here made it look so much easier than removing the alternator and such. Did everything exactly as described and after assembling everything with the new t-stat and O-ring I am getting a constant leak from the housing. I tried removing everything and reassembling...all the bolts are tight. Plastic housing isn't cracked and seems to be in great shape. Everything lines up properly but coolant is just running out of the bottom of the housing. Am I missing some magical trick here?
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What hardware I need to install the passenger side motor mount spacer from Euro Image Tuning. Been sitting on it for a while and cant find the hardware that it came with. Would like to install it, but dont remember what it came with..
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Was tinkering on my car this morning, and at first noticed one side had a bigger gap than the other. Ok, I really need to change strut mount bushings, no big deal. Then I actually looked closer, and they both have some lean to them, but the drivers side is much more than the other one. Is this normal? I've never noticed any play in control arm bushings or anything. So what could be causing this? I would assume they are meant to sit flat but maybe not?
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